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dens of Epicurus not a trace is to be found, the spot which they covered being now an open plain of corn. The fragments of the "Long Walls" still remain, but the Piræus has lost much of its ancient capacity, and would hardly be now su-pected of having been the port of so flourishing a city. The following is the account given by Mr. Hobhouse of the remains of Eleusis.

"The remains of the ancient Eleusis are now very insignificant; some small stones, and pieces of rubbish standing upright, appear scattered about under the village, on the slope of the hill, and near the sea, and on one side of an inlet on the beach are fragments of a pier. The site of the great Temple of Ceres includes most of the modern village, but the progress of decay must have been considerable since the time of Chandler, who seems, from his account, to have been able to measure the area and proportions of that magnificent building on the spot. The breadth of the cell, says he, is about one hundred and fifty feet, the length, including the Pronaos and portico, two hundred and sixteen feet, the diameter of the columns, which are fluted, six inches from the bottom of the shafts, six feet and more than six inches. The peribolus, or inclosure, which surrounded it on the north-east and on the south side, measured three hundred and eighty-seven feet in length from north to south, and three hundred and twenty-eight in breadth from east to west. I did not see that the walls of the temple or of the inclosure can be now traced, The body of the remains, belonging, it has been thought, to the Temples of Diana Propylæa, and Neptune, and to the gateway of the great inclosure, is now all on one small space in the middle of the village, and there are three or four entire portions of marble columns, just appearing above ground, fluted, and apparently of the dimensions alluded to, besides the mouth and part of the rim of a large marble vase, buried in the ground, and a fragment, alsg of marble, with the bas-relief of a Triton. Close by, we were shown the spot on which the Cambridge Ceres had so long lain half-buried in the earth. In the wall of a church, at another part of the village, is an Ionic capital. There are besides two inscribed marbles, one of which seems to have been a pedestal, and stands by itself, and the other is wedged into the walls of a house. The inscriptions copied by Wheler, were not shown to me. Some pieces of ancient wall are to be seen under the square house belonging to the Turk. The largest por tion of wall yet standing is on the rock above, where is the old tower, and on which was the citadel of Eleusis, forming a protection, on the north-west side, to the temple; but the remains of the temple in antis," seen by Chandler on this spot, either have disappeared, or entirely escaped my observation. It is well known that the Cambridge Ceres, mutilated as it is, was supposed both by

* Chandler's Travels in Greece, p. 190, edit. London, 1776.

Greeks

Greeks and Turks, from a tradition, to be a sort of talisman, on which depended the fertility of the lands of Eleusis; but the Thri, asian plain has lost nothing of its former abundance since the removal of this precious relic by our accomplished and amiable countryman, and the inhabitants of Eleusis, who pointed out to me the trench whence it had been dug, evinced no signs of regret for their loss. At Eleusis, coins are very frequently found by the peasants, and one of them showed me the foot of a stocking quite full of them, out of which I selected about five and twenty. Vol. I. p. 376.

Mr. Hobhouse does not often indulge in the expression of his classical feeling the few passages, therefore, in which he suffers himself to rise into eloquence, meet with greater force the heart of the reader. We cannot refrain from presenting our readers with a passage, which glows with all the feeling of an animated and a classical mind.

"From the summit of the highest rock of Corydallus I had a view of Athens to the east; the Piræus was to the south-east, on my left; before me to the south, was Ægina; Salamis, with its bays and diminutive towns, lay, as in a map, at my feet; the town of Megara was visible to the west-south-west, farther up on the right, in the Saronic gulf; whilst Eleusis, with its spacious basin and spreading plain, appeared under the mountains to the northwest: an extensive prospect, yet a space how circumscribed, to contain the ruins of so many cities, once the capitals of flourishing states. The friend of Cicero, sailing up the gulf to Megara *, with justice contemplated this melancholy scene, as one that must diminish the magnitude of private distresses, and check the indulgence of individual sorrows, by presenting, in one view, the abject and calamitous condition of whole cities, and many nations. But if such reflections occurred to Sulpicius more than eighteen centuries ago, with what feelings must the modern traveller behold the same prospect, when all these famous towns resemble, indeed, nothing but the lifeless carcasses of once animated bodies, prostrate, crumbled in the dust, without a sign of their ancient vigour and beauty." Vol. I. P. 380,

This is truly Ciceronian, this must find an echo in the breast of every one who has a soul which delights to expand itself amidst the grandeur of classic scenery, and a heart which can meditate in silent awe on all the changes and chances of things here below.

*Ex Asia rediens, cum ab Ægina Megaram versus navigarem, cæpi regiones circum circa prospicere, post me erat Ægina, ante Megara, dextra Piræus, sinistra Corinthus; quæ oppida quodam tempora florentissima fuerunt, nunc prostrata et diruta ante aculos jacent, &c.'-Cic. Epist. ad Famil. lib. iv."

No

No spot of antiquity was unvisited or undescribed by our ardent and indefatigable traveller;-Marathon, Platæa, the mountains of Hymettus and Citharon, form prominent points in his tour, and are severally pourtrayed with an accuracy, which, to the mind of a scholar, will be truly gratifying.

The volume concludes with an excellent chapter on the manners and dispositions of the modern Greeks. The men are handsome, and well made, the women are short, pale, and languid, notwithstanding the powder which they introduce into the corner of the eye to give it a greater brilliancy. We know not what opinion to form of our author's gallantry, when he asserts, that, during his whole tour, he did not see any Greek lady whom he could pronounce really pretty. He does not indeed appear to entertain a very high opinion of the beauty even of the ancient Athenian ladies; the reason he alledges in favour of this opinion is certainly the most ingenious, that if the women had been generally beautiful, young and old, soldiers, orators, and philosophers, would not have prostrated themselves at the feet of Aspasia or Laïs, Phryne or Pythonice.

The modern Greeks are highly superstitious, believing in charms, amulets, and exorcisms, which their priesthood do not appear to discourage. In Athens alone there are forty churches, and in Attica the number amounts to four thousand, but this ineludes every consecrated cavern with a door to it and a stone altar. Every priest has a chapel of his own, it being accounted, as Mr. Hobhouse expresses it, a sort of spiritual adultery for any one to officiate out of his own place of worship. We heartily wish that this notion could prevail a little more generally in England; among our orthodox clergy indeed we have little reason to complain of a rambling disposition, but among the fanatics a constant change of performers is not only customary but indispensable, as no congregation could endure to hear six weeks together the same nonsense talked by the same person, and generally in the same words. When therefore one of these fanatical gentlemen has got to the end of his tether, which is usually in about a fortnight, having nothing more to say, he must begin the old story again. It is essential therefore that he should be relieved by a new voice at least.

An admirable chapter on the literature of the modern Greeks is given by Mr. Hobhouse, which convinces us that there is yet some of that ancient spirit among them which once animated their forefathers. They are still devotedly attached to their name and nation, and appear most fully sensible of their degraded

state.

"A common commencement of a conversation with them is "Your Excellency will find but poor fare in our country; but you

are

are not in Christendom. What can be done amongst these beasts the Turks?" The detestation of their master breaks out on every occasion; and when the chanter from the Minaret is announcing the death of a Mahometan, each Greek that meets his friend in the street salutes him thus,-"A dog is dead.” (άπédave oxvλi.) The Archons, who enjoy the confidence of the Turks, are infected with the same spirit, and in proportion as they are more powerful, feel a stronger desire to revenge. Signor Londo, of Vostizza, the son of the person who, under Veli Pasha, may be said to govern the Morea, on hearing the name of Riga, when he was playing with me a party of chess, jumped suddenly from the sofa, threw over the board, and clasping his hands, repeated the name of the patriot with a thousand passionaté exclamations, the tears streaming his cheeks. The same person recited with ecstacy the warsong of that unfortunate Greek. The strain is of a higher mood, and I have endeavoured to preserve the metre of it, and, with a little variation, the position of its rhymes, in the following version of the four first stanzas.

1.

σε Δένε παῖδες τῶν Ελλήνων
̔Ο καῖρος τῆς δόξης ήλθεν
Ας φανῶμεν ἄξιοι ἐκείνων
Ποῦ μᾶς δῶσαν τὴν ἀρχὴν
Ας παλήσομεν ἀνδρείως
Τὸν ζυγὸν τῆς τυραννίδος
Εκδικήσωμεν πατρίδος
Κάθε ὄνειδος ἀισχρὸν.

σε Τὰ ὅπλα ἂς λάβωμεν,
Παῖδες ̔Ελλήνων ἄγωμεν,
παλαμιδών πολαμιδών
Τῶν ἐχθρῶν τὸ αιμα
Ας τ έζη ὑπὸ πεδῶν.

1.

"Greeks arise! the day of glory
Comes at last, triumphant dawning;
Let us all in future story
Rival our forefathers' fame.
Under foot the yoke of tyrants
Let us now indignant trample,
Mindful of the great example,
And avenge our country's shame.
"To arms then, our country cries,
Sons of the Greeks, arise, arise;
Until the blood in purple flood
From the hated foe

Beneath our feet shall flow."
Vol. II. P. 585.

The remainder of this song is exceedingly spirited and fine. But we fear with Mr. Hobhouse that any hope of their emancipation from their present degraded state must be very distant. Their moral construction must undergo a material alteration. Their distresses have driven them to deeds of phrenzy, but have never inspired them with that cool and courageous determination which can alone enable them to shake off the yoke of their tyrants. The lightness and inconstancy of their forefathers seems to have descended to their children, with the addition of subtlety, treachery, and insincerity.

From Greece our travellers sailed to Smyrna, a place with which our readers are too well acquainted to render it necessary for us to follow Mr. Hobhouse in his entertaining account of this flourishing city. After their departure from thence, they

crossed

crossed the Cayster, and arrived at the site of ancient Ephesus, Of the magnificent temple erected there in honour of Diana, etiam periere ruina, no vestige now remains, which we have sufficient evidence to believe, can mark the position of this magnificent fane.

Upon the subject of the Troad Mr. Hobhouse has shown much scholarship and ingenuity. He appears to be rather an academic upon the point, and although he has entered into the subject much at large, he appears to conclude against the more accurate surveys of modern times; he would enjoy the scenery of Homer in the gross, without descending too minutely into points which engender only useless and indefinite discussion. It is sufficient that all the grand features of the country still remain, the living witnesses of the accuracy, no less than the genius, of that first and best of poets.

Mr. Hobhouse has presented us with an account of the feat performed by his friend Lord Byron in swimming across the Hellespont, in company with Mr. Ekenhead, of the Royal Navy. These two enterprising rivals of Leander's fame, performed their task in an hour and ten minutes, without being sensible of much difficulty or fatigue.

In the next chapter we find Mr. Hobhouse at Constantinople, nor can we pass over this part of the work without recommending it strongly to our readers, as one of the most accurate and sensible accounts which we have ever read of the religion, the manners, the buildings, and every other circumstance attending this extraordinary city.

We were much amused with the account which Mr. Hobhouse has given us of the audience which the English ambassador had of the Grand Seignor, on the 10th of July, 1810, in whose train Mr. H. was a witness of the whole ceremony. As few of our readers can have seen any account of this transaction, we shall give the following extract from our author's detail.

"Just as we entered the gate, there was much unseemly squeezing and jostling, and those who had not pelisses of fur were pushed away by the attendants. We afterwards moved forwards with more regularity, each of us being accompanied and pressed upon the shoulder by one or two of the guard. My attendant was one of the White Eunuchs, a crowd of whom were standing within the gate. We went through a court, or rather a large saloon, open on both sides, and passing on our right several rows of the Solak guards, in white robes and pointed caps of gold, mounted a low step into a passage, covered with rich carpets, which brought us into the presence-chamber. The room appeared quite full when we entered, but my Eunuch pushed me quickly forwards within ten paces of the throne, where he held me somewhat

strictly

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