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parency of Rubens; for instance, the group of female ptisoners, and that of Venus and her nymphs." W. M. T.

The apartments which surround this hall were added afterwards: they contain a fine collection of family portraits of the house of Nassau.

The Bosch, or Wood, itself is a beautiful park, nearly two miles long; it is not unlike Kensington Gardens. It abounds in fine forest trees, and is one of the few spots in Holland where they are allowed to grow as nature intended them, unclipped, untrained, and in all their natural luxuriance of spreading branches. The number of walks, the varied nature of the ground, the fine sheets of water, and the refreshing shade, render this as agreeable a walk as can be desired.

Scheveningen, about three miles from the Hague, on the sea-shore; a fishing village, near which a bathing-house has recently been established, The road thither passes through a long avenue of trees. A little to the left of the road is Sorgvliet, once the residence of the poet Jacob Cats: a stone table at which he used to write, with a hole cut in it for an inkstand, is shown in the garden.

The costume worn by the fishwives of Scheveningen is not a little singular; the bonnet can be compared to nothing so appropriately as a coalscuttle.

The fishermen convey their fish to the Hague in carts drawn by dogs; in returning, the master supplies the place of the fish, and may be seen, to use the words of the facetious author of Vathek, "airing himself in a one-dog chaise."

The sand-hills thrown up along the beach conceal all views of the sea, till the traveller is close upon it. Scheveningen was the place from which Charles II. embarked for England at the Restoration; and here the Prince of Orange, now King of Holland, landed in 1813, after the downfal of Buonaparte. The village

originally extended some way beyond the church towards the sea; but this portion of it was swallowed up by a dreadful inundation, 1570.

To the right of the village, on the shore, is a pavilion of the Queen of Holland; and, beyond it, the New Bathing Establishment, which unites the accommodations of an Hôtel and Café with warm-baths; while bathingmachines are provided on the shore for those who prefer a cold-bath in the sea. This well-regulated establishment belongs to the Corporation of the Hague, and the price of every thing is fixed by tariff. There are 3 classes of sleeping apartments, let at 3, 2, and 1 guilders or florins per diem; but an allowance is made to persons who take up their abode for several weeks. Dinner at the table-d'hôte costs 2 fl.; a bottle of vin ordinaire, 1 f. 50 c. Dinner in private, from 1 fl. 50 c. up to 2 fl. 50 c. Breakfast with tea or coffee, 60 c.: a warm-bath costs 1 fl. 10 c.; a bathing machine, 1 fl. Fish may be had here in great perfection.

The

Many crowned heads, princes, princesses, and other persons of distinction from various parts of the Continent, take up their residence here every year during the season. inhabitants of the Hague drive over hither, take their breakfast or dinner, and a bath, and then return. A new road leading from the back of the hotel over a waste of sand now planted with trees, may be chosen in going back to the Hague, so as to vary the excursion. Public carriages are constantly passing to and fro. A hackney coach to go and return costs 1 gr. 20 cents.

The Bath-house is built upon one of the ridges of sand thrown up by the wind, which extend along the sea-shore from the Texel nearly to Dunkirk. They are planted with rushes and other plants, chiefly arundo arenaria, to bind the loose mass together, and prevent its being scattered over the country. The view on the land side over this desert is as dreary as can be well imagined.

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The direct road from the Hague to Amsterdam does not pass through Leyden, but leaves it about three miles on the right, and proceeds at once by Postbrug (post-bridge) through the villages of Sassem, Lisse, and Hillegom to Haarlem. Between the Hague and Leyden, the road, having first traversed the Bosch, passes a number of châteaux of the nobility, country houses, and gardens, which, with their meandering walks, formal clipt hedges, and parterres, cut in patterns filled with flowers, enliven the journey. There is an undulation in the surface of the ground, which shows that this part of the country is in a great degree composed of Dunes (§ 12.) similar to those now forming along the sea-shore, except that time has covered them with herbage, and in some cases with large forest trees.

2 LEYDEN.- Inns: Goude Sonne (Golden Sun). Plaats Royaal, a small inn of no pretension, but where cleanliness and civility will be met with. There is at present no very good inn here.

Leyden, situated on that branch of the Rhine which alone retains its original name as far as the sea, and which here puts on the appearance of a broad canal, has 35,000 inhabitants. In its present name may still be traced that which the Romans gave it - Lugdunum Batavorum. In the centre of the town is the fragment of a round

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tower, built on the only eminence which the country presents for many miles around; it is called the Burg, and is supposed to be of Roman origin, though attributed by some to the Anglo-Saxon Hengist. It commands a good view of the town.

The Town Hall (Stadhuis), in the Breedstraat (Broad Street, the principal and longest in the town), is a singular but picturesque old building, erected in 1574; the lower story is occupied by butchers' stalls. In the council and audience chambers, on the first floor, are several pictures; among them the Last Judgment, by Lucas Van Leyden, an extraordinary composition; a Crucifixion by Cornelius Engelbrecht; several portraits of the city guard by Vanschoten. There is also a picture of the burgomaster, Peter Vanderwerf, who so bravely defended the town during the memorable siege of 1574; by Van Bree, a modern artist; also his portrait by Govert Flinck.

Leyden has been rendered celebrated in the annals of the Low Countries, and, indeed, in the history of the world, by the siege which it endured from the Spaniards under Valdez in 1573-4. The defence of the place was entrusted to John Vanderdoes; the burgomaster of the town was Pieter Adrianzoon Vanderwerf; and the example of heroism and endurance afforded by the citizens under their guidance has not been surpassed in any country. When Vanderdoes was urged by Valdez to surrender, he replied, in the name of the inhabitants, that "when provisions failed them they would devour their left hands, reserving their right to defend their liberty. "For nearly four months the inhabitants had held out without murmuring; every individual, even to the women and children, taking a share in the defence. For seven weeks bread had not been seen within the walls; provisions had been exhausted, and the horrors of famine had driven the besieged to appease

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all retired in silence; but, fortunately, the misery of the besieged was now nearly at an end, and another Power above that of man effected the relief of the town of Leyden. The wind, which had for many weeks been in the N.E., changed to the N. w., driving the tide up the river; it then suddenly veered to the s., and one of those violent and continued storms, which, even when the dykes are entire, cause such anxiety for the safety of the country, acting with accumulated vio

their hunger with the flesh of horses, dogs, cats, and other foul animals roots and weeds were eagerly sought for. So strictly was the blockade maintained, that every attempt on the part of their friends to throw in provisions had failed. Pestilence came in the train of famine, and carried off at least 6000 of the inhabitants; so that the duty of burying them was almost too severe for those who were left, worn out by fatigue, watching, and emaciation. At length two carrier pigeons flew into the town, bear-lence upon the waters, widened the ing tidings that relief was at hand. The Prince of Orange had, finally, adopted the determination of cutting the dykes of the Maas and Yssel, to relieve the heroic town. As this fearful alternative could not be resorted to without involving the total ruin of the whole province of Holland, it is not to be wondered at that it was only adopted after much hesitation, and as a last resource. But the inundation, even when the water was admitted, did not produce the anticipated results; although the country between Gouda, Dort, Rotterdam, and Leyden was submerged, it only rose a few feet. The flotilla of 200 boats, built by the Prince of Orange at Rotterdam, and manned by 800 Zealanders under Boisot, destined for the relief of the town, was thus prevented approaching it, though the inhabitants could easily descry it from their walls. Then it was that, driven frantic by disappointment as well as suffering, they approached, in a tumultuous mob, the burgomaster, and demanded from him, peremptorily, bread, or the surrender of the town. "I have sworn to defend this city," answered the heroic governor, "and by God's help I mean to keep that oath. Bread I have none; but, if my body can afford you relief, and enable you to prolong the defence, take it and tear it to pieces, and let those who are most hungry among you share it." Such noble devotion was not without its effect: the most clamorous were abashed, and they

breaches already cut in the Dykes, and drove in the flood upon the land with the force of an overwhelming torrent. The inundation not only spread as far as the walls of Leyden, but with such suddenness, that the ramparts thrown up by the Spaniards were surrounded, and more than 1000 of their soldiers were overwhelmed by the flood. The same tide which swept them away, carried the flotilla of boats of the Prince of Orange, laden with provisions, to the gates of Leyden. An amphibious battle was fought among the branches of the trees, partly on the dykes, partly in boats; and in the end the Spaniards, who had boasted that it was as impossible for the Dutch to save Leyden from their hands as to pluck the stars from heaven, were driven from their palisades and entrenchments. This almost miraculous deliverance took place on the 3d of October, 1574,—a day still commemorated by the citizens. As an additional proof of divine interference on this occasion, the Dutch historians remark that the wind from the s. w. which had carried the water up to the walls, after three days turned to the N. E., so as effectually to drive it back again. Thus it might well be said that both wind and water fought in the defence of Leyden.

The spirit which then animated the Dutch nation is by no means extinct, as their patriotic exertions after the separation of their country from Belgium, in 1830, has shown.

At

the first call, the whole of the students of this and other Dutch universities quitted their studies, and, enrolling themselves into a corps, marched to the frontier; and not only distinguished themselves in the conflicts that took place, but remained in arms for the space of one year, as volun

teers.

The University is remarkable, not only as one of the most distinguished schools of learning in Europe, and for the interesting and valuable muscums attached to it, but also on account of its origin and foundation, which dates from the time of the siege. The Prince of Orange, with the view of rewarding the citizens for the bravery they displayed on that occasion, gave them the choice of two privileges either an exemption from certain taxes, or a university: much to their credit, they chose the latter. It at one time attained so high a reputation for learning, that Leyden earned the appellation of the Athens of the West. In the list of its distinguished professors and scholars, it numbers Grotius and Descartes, Salmasius, Scaliger, and Boerhaave, who was professor of medicine. Evelyn, Goldsmith, and many other celebrated Englishmen, studied here. Arminius and Gomarus, the authors of the rival doctrines in religion named after them, were professors here, and the memorable controversy between them commenced in the University. Leyden still affords excellent opportunities to the student of medicine or natural history, from the extent and value of its collections in all departments. The building of this University is not distinguished for its architecture; it contains portraits of some of its most eminent professors. There are at present between 600 and 700 students.

The Museum of Natural History is one of the richest and most extensive in Europe, especially in all the productions of the Dutch colonies in the East, Java, Japan, the Cape, Surinam, and West Indies: there are

many rare specimens not to be found elsewhere, very excellently preserved, and the whole is admirably arranged.

The department of birds is enriched by the collection made by Mr. Temminck, perhaps the finest in Europe.

The cabinet of comparative anatomy is perhaps the most complete in Europe. It contains preparations and skeletons of animals from the cameleopard down to the mouse, and is well arranged.

Among the shells are specimens of those which produce pearl, and of the pearl itself in all its different stages of formation: also portions of the wooden piles which support the dykes on some part of the Dutch coast, perforated by the teredo to such an extent, that the total ruin of the dykes was at one time apprehended. Luckily, the danger did not spread very far, and the threatened scourge disappeared. It is supposed that the worm had been brought over from the tropical seas in the timber of some vessel, but that it had been killed, in a few seasons, by the rigour of a northern climate. Means have been taken since its appearance to guard against the danger in future. dykes are now protected at their base, by stones brought from Norway or Tournay, and the lock-gates are coppered.

The

The minerals and insects are also good; among the latter are various specimens of spectrum, nearly a foot long; also the leaf insect.

One of the most interesting collections in Leyden is the Japanese Museum, brought to Europe with great difficulty by Dr. Siebold. It is not only curious from the number of its articles, but from their careful and judicious arrangement. It unites every thing, from the most common to the most rare and valuable objects, relating to the mode of life, manners and customs, &c., of the Japanese. It contains implements of husbandry; whatever is used for ordinary domestic purposes, dresses, arms, tools; vases,

many of them remarkable for their workmanship as well as their antiquity; well-executed sketches; coloured drawings; a library of printed books, MSS. and maps; a complete set of musical instruments; idols, and even the sacred objects appertaining to their worship, and the furniture of the temple; a series of Japanese coins and medals, and a complete set of Chinese coins from the 2nd century before our era. The traveller who visits it will not only derive great pleasure from the examination of so rare a collection, unique of its kind in Europe, but, also from the urbanity and intelligence of Dr. S., whose intimate acquaintance with the Japanese, and every particular relative to their manners and customs, is the result of a protracted residence of many years in that country,

The Egyptian Museum in the Breede Straat, includes numerous valuable and highly interesting monuments, partly historical, partly illustrative of the mode of life of that ancient people. The Papyri, a small but entire tomb of stones, some musical instruments, inscriptions, numerous fine stone tablets of a very early period, many sarcophagi and mummies, as well as rich ornaments in gold and precious stones, offer abundant interest to the learned antiquary and to the curious traveller. (W.) Of jewellery and trinkets, once, doubtless, the delight of the ladies of Thebes, and such as were borrowed by the children of Israel on their departure from Egypt, there is a large assortment. A massive armlet of solid gold, bears the name of a king (Thotmes II.), who is supposed to have been the oppressor of the Israelites; if so, it may possibly have been seen by Moses himself. The Museum also embraces many ancient objects of Roman art. Six monumental fragments, bearing Punic inscriptions, were brought from the ruins of Carthage.

The collection of Etruscan bronzes is the largest on this side of the Alps;

there are besides a number of colossal Indian statues and other objects here. A large heap of broken pottery and other objects discovered at Voorburg near the Hague, are curious relics of the Roman settlement in this country. The Agricultural collections in Leyden are very eminent.

The Botanical Garden deserves the highest praise; it is under a twofold arrangement, according to the systems of Linnæus and Jussieu. The collection of plants is very extensive, and is preserved in excellent order, under the superintendence of Professor Reinwardt and his able assistant Mr. Schurman. In the conservatories are reared the cinnamon, cinchona (from which comes bark and quinine), coffee, cotton, mahogany, &c.

In one of the hot-houses there were till lately two date palms said to be more than 200 years old; a large Fraxinus Ornus in the open air, was planted by Boerhaave, who devoted much time and attention to the formation and cultivation of this garden. Another curiosity is the trunk of a tree, which has been sawn asunder, and shows in the very centre an iron trident or fork, buried in the middle of the wood.

The large open space, called de Ruine, in the street named Rapenburg, now planted with trees, was formerly covered with houses: they were demolished in 1807 by the fearful explosion of a barge laden with gunpowder, which caught fire from some unexplained cause while lying in the canal, in the very heart of the town, and killed 150 persons.

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In the Church of St. Peter is the monument of Boerhaave, the renowned physician, with the modest inscription, "Salutifero Boerhaavii Genio sacrum; surrounded by others in memory of the most distinguished worthies of the University, as Dodonæus, Spanheim, the two Meermans, Clusius, Scaliger, Camper, and others. Among them is one of a professor, J. Luzac, killed by the explosion of

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