CONTENTS.

Departure from Ahmedabad-visit the mosques and tombs at Peerana -Dolcah, a large and strong town-Cusbattees on military tenure -beauty of the country-depredations of the Coolies-Bursorareturn to Cambay-summer palaces and gardens-palace in Cuttek-correspondence with Mirza Zummaun, izier of Cambay, when disgraced by the nabob—Siddees and attendants on the nabob -slavery in India-portrait of an Asiatic sovereign-cruelty of zemindars and officers of government-purchase of slaves-Nabob's entertainment at Dil Gusha-gardens-temple of fountains-luxury of an oriental evening-pavilions—dancing girls—songs—poetry— Persian stanzas and distichs-Persian feast-professed story-tellers at Cambay-illustrations of Scripture by modern customs in IndiaVoltaire's philosophy-fatal tendency of infidelity in India-David Hume-discrimination in the oriental entertainments as to food and presents of apparel-a passage in Scripture explained from Homer, and modern manners in Hindostan—further illustrations--familiarity of the inferior mahomedans at great feasts-subjection of Asiatic females-tents and pavilions—palanquins—hackaree—feast of Ahasuerus contrasted with modern entertainments—great similarity of ancient and modern despotism—princely banquet from a Persian story-intelligent brahmins-departure from Cambay reflections on the journey.

CHAPTER XXXI.

WE left Ahmedabad at day-break, on the 8th of May; some refreshing showers had fallen the preceding evening which laid the dust, and arrayed every object with a lovely verdure. This may appear a trifling circumstance in Europe, but it affords an unspeakable pleasure to a traveller in the torrid zone, and at this season of the year is very unusual.

The costly mosques and mausoleums at Peerana, a sacred spot, seven miles from Ahmedabad, detained us a considerable time. These tombs are of white marble, adorned with ostriches' eggs, rows of false pearl, and wreaths of flowers. The walls, pillars, and domes of the mouldering edifices which contain them, are inlaid with small looking-glasses, agates, and cornelians, more gaudy than elegant, and very inferior to the shrines at Bettwah; although these, from having been erected to the memory of mahomedan saints, are held in higher veneration. The tracery of the windows is extremely neat, and filled with stained glass from Europe, in the manner of our cathedrals.

From Peerana we rode five miles through a pleasant country to the banks of the Sabermatty, forded its shallow stream, and conti

nued our journey to Dolcah, a large town eighteen miles from Ahmedabad, where the offer of a summer-palace, surrounded by a charming garden, fountains, and groves of fruit-trees, tempted us to remain till the next morning.

Dolcah, a cusbah or town, inhabited by landholders on military tenure, is four miles in circuit, not fortified, but surrounded by a mud wall; the gates are strong, and the town furnishes twenty thousand Cusbattees, who form a sort of equestrian militia; many of them are warlike, of good family, and men of property. Dolcah is celebrated for several spacious tanks lined with stone: one of them is adorned with an island and bridge like that at Kokarea. Near these lakes are several ruined palaces, mosques, and tombs, once splendid and beautiful. The surrounding country was cultivated in large enclosures, planted with mango, tamarind, and kirney trees. In times of tranquillity the Dolcah purgunna yields a revenue of eight lacs of rupees, but the Coolies and Cotties already mentioned were then so very troublesome, that cultivation only flourished near the towns; the distant plains were assuming the appearance of a forest overrun with a variety of game. The inhabitants of Dolcah assured us that their farmers and ploughmen were attended by warriors to keep off the banditti; and near every village we found centinels stationed on the highest trees to give notice of their approach. As soon as a watchman discovers a troop of Cotties he blows a horn, or makes a loud cry, which is perfectly understood both by the peasants and cattle; this is repeated by other centinels, and in a few minutes the whole country is alarmed; swains, flocks, and herds hastily retreat to the villages, always surrounded by mud walls or strong milk-bush hedges,

and sometimes both. They are occasionally surprised, and these marauders have been known to drive off two or three thousand cattle at a time. The villagers, armed with bows and arrows, attack the Cotties when their numbers are not too formidable; but the latter being always on horseback have greatly the advantage. On account of these predatory incursions, our little escort of cavalry and Arabs, with the necessary attendants, generally occasioned an alarm as we travelled through the country.

Early the next morning we left Dolcah, recrossed the Sabermatty at Angolah, and reached the village of Bursora, fifteen miles from Dolcah, before the heat of the day. Here we pitched our tents, and remained during the sultry hours. In the evening a ride of twelve miles, over an open cultivated plain, brought us to the gates of Cambay; the distance from thence to Ahmedabad, either by Kairah as we went, or by Dolcah our returning route, distinguished by the upper or lower road, is only fifty miles.

On both roads I had an opportunity of revisiting the site of our encampments on the plains of Naranseer, and the garden-houses where we resided at head-quarters during the campaign in Guzerat: some of those summer palaces were very beautiful, both in situation and architecture. The nabob did not occupy any of them; he spent his retired hours entirely at Dil Gusha, or HeartExpanding, a more favourite retreat. Most of those summerhouses are of a slight construction, and, like those in the chief's garden at Baroche, are divided into three pavilions, at a considerable distance from each other, with canals, fountains, and flowergardens in the intermediate space. They are generally surrounded by sloping verandas and purdoes, or wet hangings of gunnies, a