rocky hills we afterwards came to, may be said to commence at this spot. On the top of the largest rock is a Hindoo temple, surmounting the trees by which the masses are surrounded. These are of various kinds; one bearing a fruit in size and outward appearance like the orange, with a thick cortex, similar to the cowit, or wood-apple of Guzerat; it is called the belah; the seeds resemble those of the pomegranate, are exceedingly gummy, and are used medicinally in fluxes. Like the mango, when green they are preserved in salt and water, and eaten as pickles.

Such is the state of warfare between the inhabitants of the different villages in this country, that every boy of fourteen is armed, and if you send for butter and eggs, the peasant brings them with a drawn scimetar. All the villagers we met had either a sword, or bows and arrows, sometimes both.

After a journey of thirteen miles through a wild country, we encamped on the 28th at Seemlee, on the river Gomah, the first village of the territory of the Barreah rajah, who having been previously in correspondence with Sir Charles, had sent one of his officers with an escort of five and twenty foot and fourteen horse, to conduct us to his capital; in consequence of which the Baroche jemadar was sent back with his party. We met many carts laden with grain, and overtook others proceeding to the interior with cocoa-nuts from Jamboseer and the sea-coasts of Guzerat.

The next morning, at three o'clock, we proceeded through a thick forest until we came to a village called Gorlah, surrounded by cultivation. In those wilds we passed a large well, or bowree, built by Damajee, the father of Futty Sihng, on a spot where, flying with only fifteen horsemen, after the dreadful battle of Panniput,

he had nearly perished from thirst. We then crossed the bed of the Pannah river, a broad stream which runs into the Myhi, as do most of the rivers in this part of the country. After a march of twelve miles we arrived at Barreah; the rajah fired the best salute in his power to congratulate us, having sent his duan, at the head of a body of cavalry, to meet and conduct us honourably into his capital.

On our left, through the jungle, we passed the chain of hills running off from the high mountain of Powaghur, seen from Dhuboy at a great distance. They do not seem a regular range, being often interrupted, and sometimes separate, and have in general a woody and wild aspect, on a basis of rock. In many parts were large flakes of a white shining stone, which at a little distance appeared like cotton strewed through the valley, running through two ranges of similar rocky hills.

Barreah stands in this valley on the river Panna, in a narrow spot, just sufficiently large to contain the town between the foot of the hills. It is very neat, and contains many good houses, built of brick, and tiled. The inhabitants appeared decent and orderly ; the shop-keepers well dressed, and the troops had a clean soldierlike appearance.

The rajah having previously announced his intention, paid us a visit at six in the evening. He was mounted on an elephant, well caparisoned, and brought with him a party of select friends. He seemed about thirty-five years of age, of a dignified mien, prepossessing manners, and dressed with taste. Round his neck hung several rows of pearls, from whence depended emeralds, diamonds, and rubies, set in the shape of hearts, one above another, in the

centre of strings of pearl. The rajah's name is Jeswant Sing, of the Rajepoot tribe; his family possessed Powa-ghurr when it was last subdued; five hundred of their adherents were killed on the spot; one only of his family survived, from whom this prince is lineally descended. Mhadajee Sindia on his last campaign in Guzerat, in passing and repassing through the rajah's country, was so pleased with his attentions that he made him many grateful returns, and presented him with the elephant on which he visited our tents.

The next morning we returned the rajah's visit. In passing through the town the people pressed in front of their houses with great anxiety to behold the first Europeans they had probably ever seen. The durbar is large, but rude; it was well attended, and a dancing-girl commenced her song immediately on our being seated. The rajah now examined our dress, and every article about us; and was good-naturedly inquisitive, especially regarding our watches, whose operation we explained to him. A small compass affixed to one of them was matter of great surprise; but still more so a telescope, carried by one of our servants. The room in which the rajah received us growing too hot from the concourse of people continually pressing into it, he led us into another apartment more airy and spacious. Here from a window which commanded an extensive view, he diverted himself a long time with the spying-glass, calling in two or three of his favourites to share his pleasure, telling them that the people walking at a distance could not even wink their eye but he saw them. On our rising to take leave, he told us with a smile, that we were now in the midst of a wild country, prisoners at his pleasure We passed

more than two hours with him, and then returned to the tents, where the good-natured prince paid us another visit in the evening.

Barreah, situated in a narrow defile, is a much frequented pass or thoroughfare, between Guzerat and Malwa; the tolls taken at the town-gates generally exceed twenty thousand rupees per annum. We left it on the 31st of March, and soon re-entered a wild rocky country, similar to that already described. Sleeping at a wretched place called Cummareah, a mile from any water, at an early hour the next morning we renewed our journey through the same wilds, which had now continued for fifty miles. Here we came to a deep pass, cut through the hills, which descended into a stony plain. We had been told many frightful stories of the cruelty and depredations of the Bheels, the wild inhabitants of the jungles and forests through which we had lately passed; but by due precaution we escaped. Before day-break this morning, after having passed the last fortified hill which forms the limits of Jeswant Sihng's territory, and in a forest near a fortress where Sindia's dominions commence, a most infernal yell suddenly issued from the deep ravines. Our guides informed us this was the noise always made by the Bheels previous to an attack, with the view of throwing travellers into a fright and confusion most favourable to their designs. We immediately set off at full gallop to the brink of the nearest gully whence the war-whoop seemed to issue, where our alertness and the lighted matches of the horsemen's pieces disconcerting them, they made off as fast as possible. This place we afterwards found to be famous for these banditti; here they establish a sort of rendezvous, and lie in wait among thickets and

hollow ways, from whence they spring on travellers, in places where no horse can follow them, nor even foot, being strangers to the ground. This dangerous spot is also a neutral situation between two independent powers, neither of whom deem themselves responsible for the robberies and murders committed by these marauders. Sir Charles used great precaution in marching through this country, moving himself with the cavalry of his guard, and attaching the regular infantry to the baggage.

Soon after descending the pass we arrived at Dohud, a town situated within another circle of hills, where the province of Guzerat ends, and Malwa commences. Dohud is by far the best town we have seen since leaving Broderah; surrounded by a high wall of no great strength, with two gates and a gurry, or citadel, forming an oblong square. The houses are built of brick, and the inhabitants respectable, especially a number of Mussulmauns of the Borah tribe, who, like the Parsees, are seldom found in considerable numbers, but where there is something like an advantageous trade.

The following day we travelled twelve miles to Taundah, a very fine village. The country though hilly was open, and well cultivated. We were there warned of an intended attack by the Bheels in our next morning's route. Before midnight a jemadar and four armed horsemen arrived from the rajah of Jaboo, a petty prince in the neighbourhood, who hearing of Jeswant Sing's civilities at Barreah, was willing to follow his example, and sent his people as an additional escort on the next stage. We accordingly proceeded together at the usual hour, and before day-break passed this perilous spot without molestation; no place could be