say, but if so, and built on the same scale, it would add some 20 feet, or more, to the present height. The steps are 203 in number, the height of the first, the lowermost being over 4 feet, and then decreasing gradually as they go up till the top is reached, where their height is rather more than a foot and a half. The largest pyramid is named after its builder Cheops, King of Egypt, and the date of its construction is said to be 900 B.C. History assigns a space of 20 years to the construction of this gigantic pile, and further states that it gave employment to 100,000 men. There is no reasonable doubt that the object for which this pyramid was constructed was that it might serve as a mausoleum. The chambers in the interior are cut in the solid rock, and are said to have contained human remains when first entered, although only the sarcophagus now remains. Leaving ancient history, however, for the present, I must resume my narrative. By the time I had accomplished the ascent of about half the pyramid's height, I found that I had had quite enough of it. On "calling a halt," my guides suspended their labours, expecting me to resume the ascent when sufficiently rested. As soon, however, as they became aware of my intention to give up the "Excelsior" progress, and begin the descent, they saw at once that without their assistance the latter would be still more difficult for me than the former. My difficulty being the guide's opportunity, my plenty stronk friend Abdallah made it the occasion for urgently soliciting backschiesh. It was in perfect keeping with Arab cunning and cupidity to perceive that I was then in the most helpless position, and that "the tide in the sffairs of men," at least so far as it regarded his hopes of extra reward, was at the full, and so he redoubled his solicitations. It was in vain that I told him that all our arrangements were in the hands of the dragoman, that the latter had, moreover, already paid the usual gratuity to the Shiek, his master, &c. His solicitation was continued as follows: "Give it he someting, Shiek, no give it he noting, give it he someting he self." To this I replied "that although disposed to give him a small extra gratuity consequent as well upon present good conduct, as subsequent to our safe descent, I should by no means be induced to do so under pressure of the fix he was keeping me in by suspending further assistance in my downward progress. To this arrangement-evidently not what had been calculated upon-Abdallah and his assistant were at length reluctantly forced to yield, and the order of our going was then resumed. I can easily fancy, from the annoyance I experienced when so critically situated, how much ladies must frequently suffer from the cupidity and menacing importunities of these guides. The work of climbing to a height of some 500 feet, with the additional pleasure (?) of being both dragged and pushed is a laborious one to be accomplished even by a man. How a lady ever manages to perform the ascent even with the addition of the use of a footstool, employed as intermediate step, I cannot say. I am afraid my experience of the feat in question

prevents my sympathizing with the fair sex in any annoyances they meet with when engaged in what I can scarcely consider a very lady-like exploit. I may, however, mention that the modus of the extortion in their case is, to conduct them in safety to the top, if they desire it; and, when descending in the return journey, to pause and demand extra backshiesch. If this be paid at once the descent proceeds, but if not, the use of the footstool is withheld, which rendering a lady still more helpless, soon brings her to terms; and the rascally Arab pockets an extra gratuity, without having to account for it to the Shiek, or chieftain. On descending, I of course "kept faith" with my plenty stronk Arabs, as far as giving them the promised extra gratuity; although I must admit, that regarding it as a sheer extortion, its amount was anything but commensurate with their desire. The dragoman meanwhile had not been idle, and rightly divining that our early morning's ride and climbing exploits would combine to make us as hungry as hunters, had prepared breakfast. A huge block of stone, one of the nethermost range of Cheops, served as table; and a more massive one could not well be imagined. "Festive-board" there was indeed none, but its absence did not materially interfere with our enjoyment of the viands provided for our entertainment. Cold chickens, sandwich-slices of bread and meat, as well as freshly boiled eggs and steaming coffee, supported by loaves of Egyptian baking, made up the staple components of our dejeuner sans fourchette. As our purveyor had amply provided, and as we came to the repast under all the stimulating influence of hunger, I need scarcely say, that ample justice was done to the outspread viands. Breakfast having been at length cleared away, and the debris distributed among the expectant Arabs, we proceeded to hold a consultation, or "palaver," as the Indian tribes say, as to the next object to be visited. The inspection of the interior of the Pyramid Cheops being the feat resolved upon by this council of war, I may, without further preface, proceed to describe it. Repairing to the north front of the pyramid, we easily found the entrance which, though at a height of fourteen or fifteen tiers from the base, is accessible, thanks to the rubbish in front. The opening is little more than a square yard wide, and the immediate descent is of such a breakback description that, through the first and a succeeding ascending passage we required to be "guided" as it is called. "Guiding," however, I found to mean in this as in the case of climbing the pyramid, being dragged and pushed by two Arabs, a number of attendants deemed necessary for each explorer. The king's chamber is the "lion" of the interior, containing as it does the now empty tomb of Cheops. To reach this, however, we had rather hard work; as the being dragged by one Arab on either hand is not a comfortable mode of travelling. To add to our discomfort we had no pure air, and the heat of the lighted candles carried by our attendants augmented our discomfort. The passage leading to the king's chamber ascends

like

at a considerable angle by a rude stairpassage, the steps of which are mere indentations in the shining marble. At last we reached the desired goal, the king's chamber. Here we found a large stone sarcophagus, but without any trace of the lid being still in existence. Should the mortal remains of Cheops ever have occupied this resting-place they have since been so perfectly removed, as to leave no trace of that fact other than the presence of an empty lidless stone trough, similar to that visible in the better class of museum, from which a mummy has been removed. Whilst within the interior of the pyramid a second demand for extra backshiesch is demanded by my two guides, one of whom suggested in a seemingly disinterested way that the correct thing was to give the two personal attendants a joint gratuity of "half a sovereign, to be afterwards fairly divided between them!" A demand like this under the then existing circumstances, being made at a time of no danger or difficulty of position to the tourist-was justly treated with ridicule. The Arabs finding their attempts to extort vain, "made the best of a had bargain," and went on. The king's chamber, as the vault-proper is called, is a chamber cut in stone; its roof is its greatest curiosity, being composed of nine slabs of granite, nine feet long by over three feet wide. The height of the roof is nearly twenty feet, and the extent of the cavern is 34 by 17 feet. The vault was excavated, historians say, first, and the pyramid built around and above it. The sarcophagus is an unimposing stone trough of some seven feet in length, and but for tradition there would be no corroborative evidence of its tenant having been the dead body of Cheops, seeing that there are no hieroglyphics upon its surface. We were very glad to emerge from this not very cheerful spot, and on regaining the lower and purer air outside, were able to set at naught the vociferous demands of our guides. Really if you were to backshiesch every one that solicits it in the east, one's hand would be ever making passage to and from the money-containing pocket of one's attire. When once more divested of the society of our tormenting guides, whose latest demand was founded upon the plea of covering the cost of the candles expended in showing us the interior, we had time and opportunity for observation again of the Cheop's pyra mid ab extra. The material is limestone, but how, and by what artificial appliances these immense blocks were successively raised upon each other is, I fancy, as little certainly known now as it was some hundreds of years ago. Our reflections upon the scale on which the pyramids are built were shortlived; as a more modern, if not vulgar interest was presented in a contest of speed and agility, entered upon by several of the Arab guides, who began a race the scope of which embraced the ascent and still more rapid descent of the pyramid. I fear I cannot register the names of the rival runners, nor can I describe the exciting features of the race in terms at all adequate. One was first in the long race, as

away; which in this bustling, hurrying, moneyseeking, hard-working, sunburning country, he must often be. We have every prospect, thank God, of a fine harvest; and now, for a first day, I think I have scribbled a great deal, so my dear new journal, as they say in the letters from "the same to the same," in old novels, "adieu for the present."

21st. In our primitive society we sometimes, I must confess (perhaps the more readily just now as it touches myself), meet ingratitude as shameless as we could possibly do in the most refined. I have heard of people being "polished out of their veracity," but it certainly does not seem to require any degree of cultivation to render some persons very unthankful. All this is apropos to the conduct of a young man who arrived here some twelve-months ago, and came direct to us, as we had known some of his friends many years back. He was utterly helpless, as he knew nothing about colonial life; was without money or suitable clothing; and being the youngest and pet of his family, was correspondingly idle and self-indulgent. We did all we could for him, lodged him with ourselves, and I did everything for him as if he was my brother, taking his part even against my husband when his indolence and stupidity got him into trouble. Yet the return we get now for all is, that when he has been shamed by the example of others, even children, into some little industry, and likely to be useful during the coming season, he has just set out for the diggings, like any rough bushman, with his blanket slung over his shoulder; and to make the matter worse, in company with one of the most idle, good-for-nothing loafers in Victoria. I tried to persuade him not to go, and represented all the sufferings and disappointments almost certainly before him, but in vain; he evidently, with the cunning of a narrow mind, thought I was merely speaking for my own benefit, and only became more determined on going. I am sure I wish him success. But to one conclusion the whole thing has brought me, viz., that there is no convinc ing a fool; because (to quote two lines, and alter one word for the occasion) from a rather strongly expressed political ballad, in high favour some years back in green Erin, "Like reeds on a harness of brass

Falls a volley of sense on the skull of an ass." But in my present mood I had better lay by my pen, or I may write what I should afterwards very much regret to read-as, indeed, I fear I have done already.

of mid-day. On Sunday they attend two Sunday Schools: one at 10 o'clock and one at 11; then preaching at three; so that there we all dine, and are only home to tea, which we enjoy very much after the day. We are obliged to be up early during this weather, as from twelve o'clock until evening we can do nothing. I am sure the heat in the kitchen is up to 100°. Dick and Johnnie are both obliged to give up school these busy times, as my husband is reaping, and they are both endeavouring to assist him. I found a copy to-day among my letters of a wonderful production of Dick's, in the shape of a letter to dear K- , and as this journal is all my own, I will feast my motherly old eyes by copying it, lest the valuable original should be lost. It is his first epistle to anyone, and cost him, I remember, an infinite amount of time and trouble, as it was to be warranted all his own composition:

"MY DEAR AUNT K-,

He

"I am very glad to write to you. Mamma bids me tell you I am a great rough boy, and she fears you will say I ought to be a better scholar. But I am not at school as often as Willie; I must help papa, and Willie is too delicate to help him. Willie got the prize at the examination at school: he has a pony to ride to school: we all get him ready for him. Papa took us to the cattle-show: mamma came: we saw a beautiful white bull-such a big fellow ! so fat he could scarcely move! A man held him by a ring passed through his nose. was called after the governor, Sir Henry Barkly. Then there were such great big horses! One great one was called "The Royal Oak ;" another "Lothian Tam;" and a great ram was called "Billy." He was too lazy to stand, and lay quite snug all day. His little lambs were in the next pen. I was very glad to hear all their names, as they will do nicely for our chickens. We have so many we could not think of names for them all. Then we went to see the poultry. There were fowls of all countries; there were French fowls, with their feathers turned the wrong way; Poland fowls, with great big top knots; Spanish fowls, with white faces and great long red combs falling over their heads; pretty Guinea-fowls, and little Bantams, geese, and turkeys. Mamma has twenty-four Guineafowl of her own: they are very pretty, but very noisy. It was very nice to see them all at the show, dear Aunt; but I think they were very glad to get out of their coops and run about again. We were caught in a thunder-storm, but got home safely. I was not afraid. Frank and Kate told me to give you all the kisses the

"Your own,

"R. H. F."

There: I hope Kwas interested in all his news. I forwarded the composition to her, with a few editorial remarks, which only his mother could supply. He had to write it at intervals, as his father called him

Feb. 22nd. What a trifling incident occasions a sensation in the Bush! Here were the boys and young ones all excitement, and I must acknowledge myself a little fluttered, all because a new thrashing-machine was brought home this evening, and between looking at them trying it, asking news from Melbourne, and getting supper and beds for the men who brought it, we were all pleasant confusion. So much so, indeed, that I am going to bed quite late, and cannot write any more just now.

25th.-A lull after the last two days' bustle. It is strange how often I am consulted by people at home about coming out here. I had a letter last mail from a lady, well educated but now reduced in circumstances, as to her chance of success if she came bringing with her about one hundred and thirty pounds; her object being to establish a good school. She is a Roman Catholic, and I think she would succeed if supported by that body. I know very little of them, but I know that priests are very scarce here. Father H--, the priest of Qhaving no assistant, although his district includes a circuit of thirty miles, and for that space the greater proportion of the population is Roman Catholic and Irish. I have heard it said that he is much respected by all denominations, and that a school for his district is much wanted. I have told her so, giving her the dark and the light side of the question; she must herself try and strike the main. But Catholic, Protestant, or Dissenting ladies who come here with the intention of setting up a boarding or day-school, must not expect to find their pupils among the colonial aristocracy with the same manners which mark the "Lady Clare de Clares" of the genuine aristocracy at home. Their pupils will be of every age; great, overdressed girls, who do not know the first letter of the alphabet from the last; in fact, what we would consider at home to be of the very lowest class; but, with plenty of money and fine clothes, they think themselves good enough, nay, occasionally too good to associate with anyone. So much for the pupils: now for the country. People sometimes write or speak about this "fine golden land"-what a misnomer! Money is often as scarce here as it is at home, and never obtained, except by a fortunate few, but by very hard work and great pri

wretched place, the money goes as fast as it is got in wages, or otherwise on the land. My husband, for instance, can hardly understand how I require anything for clothes for the children, and sometimes accuses me of extravagance, although every penny I can lay my hand on goes to keep them neat (I have long since thing they wear. So, whoever comes here, leaving a comfortable home, expecting to drop easily into another, or, having won the very best here, hopes to find it even within many degrees of the old one, must inevitably be disappointed. This is the dark side, however; and as, go where we will, we cannot have everything we wish for, so, I have confessed to myself, there are as many good things to be met with here as elsewhere. To set up a school it would be advantageous to bring out a piano: they are very dear here. If not required after a time, it would sell at a very good profit. Chimney and table ornaments are expensive, and seldom thought of in this colony. Knives, spoons, forks, table and bed linen, as well as blankets, all necessary for setting up a boarding-school, are best brought from home, as here they would cost a small fortune. The latter would be found particularly useful as the cold of winter in this climate much exceeds that in the old country. In short everything likely to add to the comfort and nice appearance of a house that would pack in a small space, should be brought out, as people here think more of eating and drinking than they do of what we were accustomed to consider the indispensable comforts and conveniences of life, and which I, for my part, still cling to and value as much as ever. My friend in writing to me says, "I am rather subject to bronchitis :" here, if so, she would have the advantage of getting completely rid of it. I am sure if I had remained in C--, I should by this time suffer from asthma, a tendency to which, I inherit from my mother, but in this place I have not a trace of it.

27th. I have just been alarmed by a succession of shouts from my husband, who is doing something to the new machine in the barn. I ran off and met the servant running also, and reached him out of breath, fancying everything but what was really the matter, and found him standing over an immense snake which he held to the ground with a spade, not daring to move until the girl killed it with an axe. The boys killed several this season. Kate stepped on one twice, but (thank God) escaped uninjured. It is a pity they are so dangerous. They are very pretty, shading into the most lovely colours, violet, rose, green, silver, and so on; they are sometimes nearly six feet long, and as thick as a man's wrist. These are the full-grown ones, others are not larger than eels; but all are venomous, and if the part bitten is not very quickly cauterized or cut out, the bite is always deadly. They are usually found in grass or low scrub. The diamond snake is