or 35 years, whom I had observed eating, at the general's table, in his shirt sleeves, put on a red military jacket and cap, then with a profound military salute, took his departure. Thinks I, there goes a drum-major as proud of his livery as a peacock of his tail and then dismissed all thought of him.

Having understood that Señor Ahad letters from General Harrison to me, who had as previously requested addressed to his care, went with him after finishing my meal, to his store and found two. The General expressed his pleasure at my having a servant with me, and stated that instead of an encumbrance, he would be an acquisition to him, as the servants here are so incompetent, and after giving me some directions about his furniture, which by this time had all gone on; he closed by informing me, who to draw on for money in case I wanted it; that, however, was not necessary, but it all goes to show the man. After reading my letters, St Avendano suggested going to the Governor's office to show my passport, and take out a new one at once, as I wished to move on early the following morning; accordingly we went, and who did the Governor prove to be, but my polite drum-major. I was greatly surprised but my equanimity soon returned and Governor Posada was so favorably impressed by my powers of affability that nothing could equal his civility. He sent out his own servant to procure the mules for me to proceed on with; gave me a hammock to sleep in that night; and afterwards when we found none other was to be had in Honda, he offered me the use of his own English saddle, without which my journey would not only have been unpleasant but extremely hazardous. I found Honda excessively warm, but in spite of the heat I rambled through every part of the earthquake battered place, to view the ruins of churches, convents and dwellings prostrated by the earth's commotions. After my stroll about town we returned home to dinner where I found Cato and the baggage by the Governor's orders. Cato remained with the luggage at Señor Avendano's and I went to the Governor's that night. The only thing that occurred at Honda, to mar my enjoyment, was the first flying report of General Harrison's removal. The news was not so very shocking, as the possibility of such a thing had previously occurred to my mind; but my greatest anxiety wasthat your new Hickory broom might peradventure sweep too clean at your office. On the 17th June upon crossing the river, after breakfast, at eight o'clock, I found the Governor's servant with mine awaiting my coming. The baggage was soon lashed on the backs of the mules, when Cato and myself mounted ours; and followed by our cheering peón (muletéer) Honda was quickly left behind us.

This road has the reputation of being one of the worst in South America. We passed on the brink of many a giddy precipice, and up elevations which owing to their perpendicularity appeared to our unpracticed eyes insurmountable, but these places are passed and repassed with but little difficulty, through a zig-zag road. This has by the power of the mountain floods and constant travel, been worn down below the general level of the surrounding ground, and now resembles a farmer's ditch more than a grand turnpike to a large and rich Capital. Our wearisome headway was made up such a road for several hours, now and then a short level, or a descent would occur by way of variety. The description we had received of this road, from our English acquaintances, had made us expect many an adventure in the shape of broken bones and tumbles; but the agreeable change from our boat life with the quickly acquired confi

dence in the sure-footedness of our patient mules, dispelled every appre hension of that sort and left the mind at ease to enjoy the ever varying scenery. A slip which Cato unintentionally made over the neck of his beast, did not in the least tend to destroy our enjoyment, only made us more cautious in sitting firmly on our saddles while crossing bad places. At length we attained the elevation as designated on an old Spanish monument by the side of 860 toésa (fathoms) from which the view was magnificent, a wild and most extensive spectacle. In the centre of the scene the River Magdalena like a silver thread was seen winding along for many miles on its seaward course and from it, the mountains rose to a towering height one above another, in every direction as far as the vision could detect them; and in the distance became so blended with the clouds, as to be scarcely distinguishable. Even the spot on which we stood, though. far above the ribbon like stream appeared when the nearer ranges were overlooked, and when the eye rested on the remote mountain tops, like the lowest spot athwart the vale. I never in my life so forcibly realized the insignificance of man as I did at that moment. Notwithstanding fatigue, our time passed away most pleasantly and about 5 o'clock P. M. Guaduas in the bosom of its delightful valley opened to our view and at 8 o'clock we had made the descent.

After delivering my letters of introduction from Governor Posada and Señor Avendaño to Colonel Acosta I was soon put in very comfortable quarters for the night. At Guadua, which is about eight leagues from Honda, I met Col. Campbell the British Chargé d'Affaires to this Country, and Mr. Miranda a son of the unfortunate Patriotic General killed by the Spaniards, of the same name. They both confirmed the rumor of General Harrison's removal by President Jackson, but that he had not as yet been officially informed of the event; I was gratified to learn from them, that he would not probably leave the country yet, for some months. I was extremely well pleased with both gentlemen, particularly with the urbanity and true gentility of Col. Campbell. They had been traveling for health and amusement; at this time had been several days in this charming village when I arrived, and having understood from Col. Acosta that there was an "Ingles caballéro" or an English cavalier at his mansion who spoke the Spanish imperfectly they at once called on and breakfasted with me. I gleaned many items of intelligence. The President

of Colombia is still in Peru.

CHAPTER XXIV.

SOUTH AMERICAN LETTERS CONTINUED.

Rumor with her thousand tongues is very busy, though of course there is no sure dependence to be placed upon her; she says that, the war is soon to be renewed, and when peace is firmly established that the great Republican Bolivar is to assume the royal purple; that plan is quite openly talked of and doubted by none!

A short time since word was received of the total destruction, by fire, of the best frigate in the Peruvian navy; this unlucky accident gives the

President a decided advantage, and most probably will be the means of his effecting a speedy settlement with his foes in that quarter. A new tariff has lately been issued also by General Bolivar from Quito, which imposes an additional duty at once, of $5 per bbl. on flour, it was $3 before; this unwise act will make the importation of that article from the United States out of the question. Indeed the effect of the new tariff appears to be directed chiefly against the productions of the United States, and is widely considered a further proof of the President's ill will towards our republicanism. However let him run, only "give a rogue rope enough and he'll hang himself." The first glimpse I had of this beautiful Gauduas valley was from a height of 5160 feet, as indicated by the true Spanish measure stones, it then appeared as if I could easily jerk a stone upon it, but it had, notwithstanding, taken us five long hours before we made our entrance in it. The valley in which the village stands is surrounded by mountains equally as high as the one over which we passed, and a more romantic, lovely, secluded spot never was warmed by the sun. If the inhabitants of the vicinity had only a tenth part of the Yankee enterprise, they might soon command the productions of every climate, but as it now is, they only have such products as grow almost spontaneously.

I took one of Col. Campbell's many useful hints, by dispatching on my baggage early next morning, after my muleteer had received directions from the two colonels where to stop with me. Having been informed by Col. Campbell that Gen. Harrison had been anxiously expecting me since he had heard from home, I finished my meal with my hospitable entertainer and his guests; then taking leave of them, jogged on after my other three mules, which looked at the height they had by this time attained, like so many mice beating up the side of a haystack. I followed up the steep mountain but it was near one o'clock ere I found them and lost sight of Gauduas. We met with the same kind of scenery and rough roads though generally better than on the previous day, though some of the passes were very bad, and the precipices dangerous causing giddiness, but the mules are so perfectly sure-footed and accustomed to the way that you acquire more confidence while passing the most gloomy looking precipice on their backs than you would if depending upon your own legs. We consumed nearly the whole of that day in crossing over the mountain of Alto de Trigo, or height of wheat, though we saw none of that grain on our road. On reaching the summit of the mount we had a charming view of the village and valley of Velleta and passed through at 5 P. M., sleeping about one and a half leagues beyond at a hovel called Alto de Gaseno 320 toésa higher than the village. The Bogota or Funza river, waters the valley, adding much to its beauty, but still not equal to the picturesque valley of Gauduas. Villeta is 3498 feet above the level of the sea; from this place you ascend with little or no interruption until you have obtained the altitude of the plain of Bogota which is 8220 feet above the sea. The change of atmosphere on this table-land was so great, that my blanket, coats and other wrappers could scarcely keep me from shivering. I suffered much from cold all that night, perhaps if our house could have afforded any edibles, I might not have felt it so sensibly, but I found not only that day but also the succeeding one, that a long ride over a rough mountainous road with an empty bread basket is not a nonconductor of cold.

My hammock was slung for the night in a room, around which twenty

noisy and filthy muleteers were huddled together like so many swine. After an uncomfortable night, in which our light slumbers were frequently disturbed by the arrival of the clamorous mule drivers with their braying animals, of which there were next morning about one hundred, we were happy when the day dawned, as it enabled us to proceed on our route. After four hours ride, we were fortunate enough to procure three dishes of weak soup being a compound of potatoes, cabbage, beans and the leg of a fowl-it was the first time we had broken our fast since leaving Gauduas and we were destined to have this suffice till after reaching Bogota. This mess put us in a better condition to resume our journey and Ias was my constant practice-led the van in order that I might alight occasionally, on spots where the view was particularly fine, to gaze on the rugged little world around me. From the lofty height of our road, in some places you look down upon this range of the Andes and see mountain piled on mountain with their rocky and difficult passes; then as far as the eye can reach on all sides you still see other ranges whose lofty eminences mingling with the clouds, are much higher than the pinnacle upon which you stand. Nothing can equal the wild grandeur of the country through which we travel on this route. To look back you can hardly realize having traversed over so rough a district; to gaze ahead you think it an impossibility to surmount the barriers before you, but still a road has been formed even here, over which delicate ladies occasionally travel and in perfect safety.

I met a young Virginian accompanied by his Lieutenant Guard of Colombian troops, passing each other in the most dreary part of the road. I should not have known him for a Countryman on account of his formidable mustache, but he joyfully recognized me as "a paisáno." He hailed me and asked if I was a foreigner, with a variety of other questions; stating by way of apology for his inquisitiveness, that he was looking out for a young gentleman, by name Van Rensselaer, to whom he was instructed to deliver a letter from General Harrison. When I told him I was of that name, and called upon him for the letter, he dropped his Spanish tongue and in his own native lingo told me his name was Carr from Virginia, he was now a bearer of letters to Col. Acosta from Gen. Harrison respecting me, the General having a few days previous heard of my coming, requesting him to pay me a little attention in case he should see me on my way up. While my baggage was coming up, and his with some of his stragglers were on their way down, we stopped in a little hut at hand on that lonely wild of the Andes to talk of home, sweet home! He knew many of my acquaintances and it was an agreeable incident to meet this tall mustached, sociable and intelligent countryman who was well acquainted with, and had so lately as two days previous parted from Gen. Harrison. Carr being out merely on some Government business to be absent a few days, we expressed a hope of meeting each other at no distant period in Bogota which is his permanent station. However we left each other on the arrival of our respective baggage, from different directions and pursued our different destinations- he for Guaduas myself for Bogota.

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For the last 24 hours we met with many evidences of enterprize in this rough region, in the line of agriculture; whenever the unevenness of the surface admits of it, a hut is erected, in many places even on the peaks of the steep mountains and around it is seen the various productions of the industrious proprietor growing amidst the lofty trees of the forest in the greatest luxuriance. We met to with many familiar growths of

our own country such as corn, onions, cabbages, potatoes, beans all in a fine state of cultivation, and this morning to, for the first time in this country saw roses. In the afternoon I was much elated at the sight of a beautiful little field of wheat, about the same state of maturity as at home at this season; which with a flock of sheep, geese, &c. gave the place such a comfortable look that I began to feel myself in a civilized country. Indeed for a time I fancied myself among the backwoodsmen at home. I find the people are enterprising, but they do not know how to direct their labors. They have the most miserable apologies for agricultural implements, of course though they may work hard, they cannot execute very much. To give you an idea of what can be done by a good farmer, I will mention, that the soil with the imperfect tillage it now receives, produces two crops of wheat, and three of barley. Both grains command in market from two and a half to five dollars per English bushel. Horticulture is still less understood, though it receives better encouragement than agriculture. You would be astonished to see the poverty of the Market in this climate where all the productions might with little care be raised. Vegetables command a very high price, and though of a good quality are often out of season when offered for sale. Peas and potatoes when nearly dead ripe are then brought to market.

Many of our most common vegetables were never known here, till introduced by Gen. Harrison. When a dinner is given by any of the Diplo matic Corps, he is always called upon for his vegetables: his celery, turnips, radishes, salads, &c., are the finest I ever beheld, and he says, they grow faster and are more easily cultivated than at home. Indeed, now as the General is recalled, I feel that if I had one or two more hands with Cato, I would really like the idea of trying the experiment of making a fortune on fifty acres, in my favorite way. There is much for and against the plan, I will give it more reflection before I decide. But to return from my long digression, shortly after passing this comparative level where things were flourishing, the steepness and difficulty of the mountain passes, convinced me, I was not on a road worked by the hands of Yankees. However this last ascent was not of long continuance and to our great relief my mulish cavalcade soon reached the height skirting the great plain of Bogota, where the rarefaction of air became so great, that I was taken with a very severe headache, while at the same time the guide and Cato were bleeding in concert at the nose. From this elevation the descent was gradual for better than half a league, when we came to the plain and shortly after to the village of Facitatiba, through which we passed and lodged that night (after having had a dim view of the Capital afar off), at a dirty hovel a league and a half beyond it.

Before reaching our inn for the night we passed several cavalcades, composed of riders of both sexes, whose large wide loose Roanas or sort of cloaks, gave a very fanciful appearance. These roanas are nothing more than an oblong piece of cloth with a hole in the centre for the passage of the head; and when of a gaudy color, as many of them are, fluttering about around its owner on a swift horse, bring to mind the often described dress of the gay Cavalier of old Spain. These parties were coming at full speed from the Capital where they had been to join in the festivals of Corpus Christi. The meeting of so many white faces, after all the tawny skins I had for so long time been gazing at, together with their dashing style of dress and movement was quite acceptable to me. Another cold shivering night was spent in the same manner as the last, in similar com