next in order; so it passed and repassed till the soup had disappeared. We made more expeditious work with the solid part of the entertainment, fingers being substituted for knives and forks enabled us to eat in concert. The manner and readiness with which this meal was offered, made it more acceptable to us than the more sumptuous fare of formalized etiquette. Tayloe and the Count as well as myself were highly diverted by our novel repast, and after rewarding our kind host, promised as we did to call again. On the second occasion each one of us, without the knowledge of the other, pulled out of his game-bag a spoon, knife and fork at the commencement of the dinner.

With a view of seeing all the belles of Fusugazuga together, we one night gave a ball it cost us four reáls, 50cts, a piece or twelve reáls in toto. The ladies came at an early hour, all looking very prim, and decked out as neatly and stylish as their simple means admitted. A white dress below, covered in part with a coarse blue woolen short-gown girdled around the waist, a striped straw hat on their heads, and all supported by pretty little naked feet was the à la mode costume of the bonton. The gentlemen wore no coats, shirts and pantaloons were universal, except some of the younger spectators who were only encumbered with the shirt, and those still younger dispensed with both articles being in a state of nudity. The band composed of guitar, tipplers, rattlers, reeds and the drums merrily struck up, when each of the beaux very gallantly placed his hat at the feet of the lady he desired as partner, then immediately backing out in the middle of the room, without a word to her, frisked about alone, until the selected belle most condescendingly implies her consent to dance with him by placing the hat on his head again. Then the waltzing commences, with the voices of the dancers joining in concert with the players. These people delight in dancing, and I think would wear out two set of North Americans in the exercise. Between dances they refresh themselves with the choice nick-nacks together with their favorite dishes, cigars, and country anise-seed brandy. The frolic seemed to give general satisfaction and was kept up till quite late.

About a week after the receipt of the General's note, on the morning of August 9th, having dispatched a load of game and our baggage on the previous day, we left this peaceful valley and its kind inhabitants. Soon we were again re-crossing the craggy mountain and once more overtaken by a tremendous shower, but under the lee side of a towering tree, we found shelter from its greatest fury, and the after drizzling did not last sufficiently long to wet our overcoats.

This mountain appears to act as a breaker to all the clouds that generate in the valley below: the specific gravity of these clouds is too great to allow them to soar through the thin air above the mountain's top, but driven by the wind which at this season comes constantly from the south, they all collect here and keep up an almost continual shower. From May to the first of December is the winter season, during which time we constantly expect the rain with thunder and tempestuous weather. At the summit of the mountain we again encountered the fog-like clouds, arrested in their course by the towering tops and hiding from our view the beauty of the surrounding landscape.

The Count Zliskie has traveled this highway six times, but never with a dry coat. I was unable to assign a reason why a person not accustomed to the climate, should feel so uncomfortably cold when the thermometer

stands at 55°, which is the mean temperature at Bogota at present, when at home we think such a medium is "devoutly to be wished." But I now perceive it is all owing to the extreme thinness of the air in this elevated region. Flannel is an agreeable addition for comfort to my ordinary winter clothing. We reached home at Bogota "without the loss of a single man," or any accident, not one adverse adventure. The day after my return to the Capital I had an opportunity, for the first time of witnessing a" Bull-Fight," or rather a teasing that was got up in honor of the anniversary of" St. Victorina." You no doubt will be surprised at the idea of a saint's being honored in this brutal way and that too on Sunday ; but here such a parade is but a common circumstance. It was preceded by a grand Procession, in which about twenty images of the most costly description, some as large as life, were borne about on the shoulders of men. The Host too made its appearance, and when at the several temporary shrines erected in the Square, a halt was made for religious ceremonies and the devout crowd knelt in the dust. On similar occasions or when the Host is carried to administer the last sacrament to the dyingits approach is heralded by the tinkling of the bell accompanying it. At which time all foreigners or such as are not sufficiently zealous in their respect to it, to risk the soiling of their clothes, or the ill-will of the sect to which it appertains- always seek refuge in a house till it has passed. After viewing the grand procession of St. Victorino from a balcony and the images had been all carried into the Cathedral our party retired and quickly were mounted on their horses, in order to have a nearer and better view of the expected pageant. Upon entering the square our little squad being as well mounted as any in the gay and numerous cavalcade already assembled there, resolved to prance around under the balconies to make our chánza or jest to such of the belles, collected in them, as we might know. We had only passed two sides and in the act of saluting the Hendersons when the cry of " El Tóro, tóro”—the bull, bull, rose from the excited crowd and warned us of its approach; together with a mass of flying horsemen from a little street leading to the square, at the same time told us of the bull's vicinity. Of course we joined in full speed the retreating host, and when out of harm's way turned around to gaze at the animated spectacle. This disorderly race among the hundreds of gayly cloaked horsemen - Spanish cavaliers mounted on swift horses is indeed a sight worth seeing, and the only one in the barbarous, ridiculous, brutal show. The bull came dashing along just at our heels, but finding himself disappointed in flooring an equestrian and that chase hopeless; he would ever and anon, suddenly make a bolt among a motley group of pedestrians. If that group evaded his fury by dodging in a friendly doorway or by mounting above his reach on the latticed windows, he would dash at another, and still another, until exhausted by his futile attempts he would find a halt necessary for a fresh supply of wind.

The animal is tied at one end of a long lasso, or a line made of a raw hide twisted with a noose, the other end is held by a man on a fleet horse or fastened to the pommel of the horseman's saddle; another fellow with an iron pointed goad follows after and sticks the brute to make him fractious. While passing in this way through the crowded streets, the two legged rash fools present themselves to him, with nothing in their hands but a red rag or cloak, and when the maddened beast makes a plunge at them, they dexterously leap on one side, still holding the rag out for the bull to strike. While the animal is resting the crowd by throwing

Some

missiles of all kinds would endeavor to rouse him again to action. times he would only notice these annoyances by a toss of the head, but if an adventurous toréro, bull-fighter on foot, came very near with his teasing flag, one tremendous plunge indicated his desire of vengeance. But finding himself foiled by the agility of his tormentor, he would again resume his passive bearing until roused once more to mischief by the steeled point of the staff or pike pole. The wounds inflicted by the goad would again arouse all his latent anger causing horse and foot to fly in one mingled rout from his furious onslaught. Accidents are very common, but are considered as trifles and the life of the sport by this enlightened people, yet it is a dangerous, cruel pastime, more particularly so to the footmen. In one charge of the bull on this occasion I saw at least half a dozen of them knocked down under the feet of the running horses, though I do not know that any were seriously injured. There was one occurrence, that afternoon, that completely satisfied my desire to see no more of this amusement. The bull was standing in the centre of the square, covered with foam and lolling with fatigue-missiles, flags nor goad seemed to have any effect upon him; he was pronounced "good for nothing done over the people went around him and before him ; he even allowed himself to be patted without in the least noticing it. At length starting from his lethargy, he made a dart at his nearest assailants, but the cry of toro, tóro notified them in time and they escaped the danger. One poor fellow, however, some yards ahead, either deaf or so petrified with fear as to disable him from flying - was overtaken by the raging beast and thrown up in the air. He fell without a sign of life - when the bull having passed on, the unfeeling mob gathered around with shouts of laughter and mockery at his misfortune. He was picked up by two or three of the more humane ones and borne off with the blood streaming from his head and arm and I neither saw nor heard more of him.

I am happy to see from your letters, my good father, that your trip to Washington was so satisfactory; it is cheering to learn that " Old Hickory" is so favorably inclined towards you, and to hear of his promise that you shall be retained in your office. The promise too of Moore, in relation to myself, as mentioned in yours of March 23d, was not unacceptable, but there is such a difference between Moore and Harrison! The latter has it in view to leave his son here with Dr. Bresson, but is not exactly determined. I will send my Journal by Gen. Harrison which will replace the missing numbers of my letters. I suppose Richard and Elizabeth are established in their own house, and so much taken up in nurturing little Deb, and the other stranger that I must be satisfied with their brief letters. Love and remembrances to one and all at home. Sincerely Yours,

Gen. Sol. Van Rensselaer, Albany, N. Y.

R. V. RENSSELAER.

Dear Father,

CHAPTER XXV.

SOUTH AMERICAN LETTERS CONTINUed.

Rensselaer Van Rensselaer to his Father.

Bogota, August 25, 1829. The letter dated five days since went to Carthagena and you no doubt will wonder at receiving another so soon, but I send this by Mr. Gooding of Boston who leaves this for home. Your No. 1 of May 31st, came to hand a few days since, the detention was caused by the mail's having been robbed, below Mompox on its way to Bogota. The mail boat, having a crew of bógas, besides the patrón, was attacked by another boat with a similar crew completely armed. The patrón was killed, one man badly wounded, and the other two made their escape by swimming ashore. The robbers after taking out the trifling amount of specie contained in the mail boat, left the correspondence unmolested in some place where it was subsequently found. Two of the villainous scape-graces have been arrested and sent to Gen. Montillo in Carthagena, who ere this has cured them of their itching propensities for other peoples lives and money. My letter was among others moored in the boat, against the Magdalena's bank, till some honest, true fellow came along, and put it on its right track for Bogota. I am very sorry to find out through letters to the General from J. Mac Pherson our Consul at Carthagena, that no letters went home in the August packet from that place; the latest you had received from me, previous to that time, must have then been written in May at Barranquilla and Mompox. Knowing through them that I was on the river, I fear that anxiety to hear of me at the end of my route, has been too much the "order of the day at home. The cause of the delay in your not receiving my letter was this. The Government here has passed a new tariff law, the sure effect of which will be to cut off entirely, I fear, the valuable trade of the United States; the duty on flour is eight dollars per bbl., other products of that country in proportion. This new tariff was to have gone into operation on the 1st of July, but the time was extended four months, at the representation of Gen. Harrison, in order that the Merchants at home might be saved from ruin, by timely notice of it. Bunch & Co., together with others, in hopes of making a fine speculation by laying in a large supply of North American produce, before the new decree went into operation, chartered the New York packet - then in port and would not allow the Master to carry a single letter, for fear that word of the extended time for the tariff's going into effect, should be sent home.

Among the letters thus detained was Gen. Harrison's Dispatch on the subject of the extension and my two. The effect of this abominable tariff may be possibly to exclude our vessels from these ports, if so, you of course will know the fact before I do, in that case our correspondence will be very irregular; but be assured I will avail myself of every known opportunity of letting you hear from me. The General is daily more and more pleased with "blackey," and I myself also fully estimate his good

qualities. To hear that your friends are on the alert to save your office is truly gratifying, I know of no person who can boast of so many true ones.

I will now ask you to return, in thought, with me to my Southern home and accompany the parties, that every fair afternoon are sure to join the Henderson family in their excursions - the older people, with Gen. Harrison, quite frequently, in a coach and four, while we younger ones take our airing on horseback in company with the young ladies. Having now recovered a fine appetite and nearly all my strength and I trust fully acclimated, our evening rides, with or without the ladies, were always highly enjoyed by me. The evening resort of all foreigners and the fashionables of the Capital is the beautiful Alaméda or public walk. It is the prettiest road in the vicinity, on each side of it for two miles is the hedge of trees and shrubs, among the last are roses and blackberries always in bearing. It is the grand promenade and here a few carriages of Bogota as also the mounted cavaliers repair in a fine evening. The other avenues from the capital on the plain being unadorned by trees or hedges are too monotonous for a frequent ride; there is one, however leading at the foot of the Monte Serratte towards the fountain head, that has variety enough. But the most romantic of all, is one leading to the Monastery or hermitage on top of that mountain and another to the ruined Convent on the Guadeloupé. On this last, Mr. Tayloe, Carter Harrison and myself rode one evening, it is rugged and sufficiently wild to suit the most adventurous mind. About half way up, or one league from the city, we halted to look at two wild deer browsing within a pistol shot of the road, they seemed to consider one glance a sufficient notice of us, after which they resumed their satisfactory employment and we, without molesting the pretty creatures, continued our way to the summit of the mountain ridge.

Owing to the circumstance of the earthquake of 1827 having demolished the building on this peak at which period much damage was also done in the cityit was no more a place of resort. The path from the main road was so much overgrown with weeds, that we lost it, but did not miss the principal object of our ride, the extensive and grand view that fixed us in astonishment. From an eminence, 1800 feet above the plain of Bogota, we had a splendid survey of the lofty Andes with its immense chain of towering mountains, we knew all about the steep and rugged ascent up to the stately peaks. We cast our eyes over the extensive table land and City; the last had a very sombre appearance, the effect of the dark tiled roof houses; the streets are all at right angles, and through the centre flows a stream of water. Some of the summits around tower to a prodigious height, rising far above the clouds, and are covered with perpetual snow, and although we are so near to the Equator the intense heat is not particularly oppressive in consequence of the elevated land, but the climate mild and salubrious though it is now Winter. After feasting our eyes with the grand and sublime spectacle, we returned by a still more difficult road than the one we had ascended and passed the fine Quinta country seat of the Liberator-General Bolivar. These rides I found very essential — as the correspondence of Gen. Harrison with the Colombian Government for claims of our citizens, the remonstrances &c against the oppressive conduct of these authorities towards those citizens &c - gave me so much writing that I was quite happy to seize every moment for exercise. A transaction has just now become public, which has excited the indignation of all the English and Americans. It appears that Nicholson and Trathe two persons from whom I received so much attention in Mom

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