The water had lodged about it, and the powder was reduced to a dark paste. In his account of this journey, Sir Edward Parry mentions a sumptuous meal of ptarmigan' which his party enjoyed at this place. Their bones were still strewed about the encampment, and I was astonished at their fresh appearance; they were not decayed, but merely bleached, and snapped like the bones of a bird recently killed."

This interesting vestige of previous enterprise was destroyed to supply the wants of the new visitors.

"I had intended to mount my sledge on the cart wheels, and attach the pole as to a hand-cart, and thus render our retreat across the land independent of the snow, but found the hole in the nave too small to receive a wooden axle-tree. The wheels were, therefore, broken up; the naves, iron rims, and other iron work of the cart (including linch-pins and washers, still tied together as we found them), were left beside a cairn which we erected on this point above our encampment."

The slow progress of decay in this climate was strikingly evident on inspecting the site of Parry's encampment. The wood appeared unchanged; the bones of the ptarmigan off which his party supped were merely bleached; and the pieces of cloth, canvas, rope, and twine strewed about the beach, still retained much of their original strength and colouring, notwithstanding an exposure of 20

difficulty was experienced in finding the site of the encampment. The only object conspicuous above the snow was a huge sandstone rock, upon the southern face of which Mr. Fisher, of Parry's expedition, had cut the following inscription:—

His Britannic Majesty's
Ships HECLA & GRIPER
commanded by

W. E. PARRY & Mr. LIDDON
Wintered in the adjacent
Harbour 1819-20
A. Fisher Sculp.

This inscription remained perfectly fresh, and scarcely any lichen had grown into the letters. Lieutenant McClintock cut the figures 1851 upon the south-west face of the rock, near the inscription, and placed a record upon the top of it. In this desolate place they made a humble friend.

"Our noisy approach disturbed a hare from under the lee of this huge rock. She came towards us and sat quietly within 20 yards for some time, and then retired to her home beneath it.

"We are on the most friendly terms with our neighbour, the hare. She regards us with the utmost confidence, has been hopping about the tent all day, and will almost allow the men to touch her. Not wishing to have her liberty infringed, I have been obliged to reason some of the men out of their desire to carry her back to the ship as a pet from Winter Harbour.' I have never seen any animal in its natural state so perfectly fearless of man, and there can scarcely be a more convincing proof that our missing countrymen have not been here. A ptarmigan alighted on the rock, and was shot, without in the least disturbing puss as she sat beneath it."

The party now commenced their homeward route; and on the south point of Fife Harbour discovered the record left there by Parry. The bottle was perfect and the seal unbroken. The next difficulty was to get the paper out. It was a half sheet of foolscap loosely rolled, and had expanded when dropped into the bottle. They rolled it up tight by means of two pieces of wood, as with curling tongs, and thus drew it out; the writing was in perfect preservation. This was copied and an addition made relating to the present visit, and the whole was carefully replaced. Melville Island was finally quitted on the 13th of June. On the 16th of June, Byam Martin Island was reached Cape Capel on the 28th; and here Lieutenant McClintock had the pleasure of being rejoined by his enterprising second, Mr. Bradford. This officer, who had been detached by Lieutenant McClintock from Griffiths Point, Melville Island, reported his progress. He had searched the whole eastern shore of Melville Island to the north; had crossed over the strait and completely encircled Byam Martin Island, without finding any trace of Franklin; and having fallen in with notices of Lieutenant Aldrich, it was apparent that the chain of search was completed, and that nothing further was to be done in this direction. He therefore crossed over to Bathurst, and rejoined his superior at Cape Capel. Early in his journey Mr. Bradford had a severe fall, and so much injured his leg that during the latter part of the journey he was conveyed on a sledge.

Lieutenant McClintock and his now reunited party pushed on for the ships, which they reached on

the 4th of July, having been absent 80 days, having traversed an extent of frozen ocean and more sterile shores exceeding 770 miles. The results of the expedition were, that the south coast of Byam Martin Island and of Melville Island from Point Griffiths to Cape Dundas, and thence to Liddon's Gulf, had been discovered and examined by Lieutenant McClintock personally; and the eastern shore of Melville Island for 70 miles, and the entire circuit of Byam Martin Island by his officer, Mr. Bradford, without finding any traces of Sir John Franklin's expedition; nor did these shores appear to have been visited, even by Esquimaux, since Parry wintered there in 1819-20.

The statements given of the distances travelled by the Western Division of search refer only to those performed by the branches as bodies; the distances performed by the sledges and detachments are of course much larger, as they include much of the same ground; but the total addition of services by both Divisions makes the amount 5937 miles; the extent of new coast visited was 865 miles; the most northerly point of latitude obtained was 76° 23′ by Mr. Bradford; the furthest point of west longitude 114° 20' by Lieutenant McClintock.

From the perfect investigation made by the Western Division of search it seems certain that, although these seas are navigable by ships, Sir John Franklin did not proceed to the westward by way of Melville Island or the channel which lies between that island and Beaufort Land; and that none of his parties or stragglers on their return have arrived at the eastern, southern, or wester:

shore of Melville Island. The labours of both the Southern and Western Divisions of search having proved fruitless, and the several parties having returned to head quarters, it became Captain Austin's duty to consider his further course. It was indeed too evident that further search in this direction was useless; and therefore Captain Austin resolved to get clear of Barrow's Strait and Lancaster Sound, and to pursue the second alternative of his instructions, which enjoined a search of Jones's Sound, an unexplored inlet on the north of Baffin's Bay. On the 11th of August, 1851, the ships were unexpectedly released from their winter quarters at Griffiths Island, and on the following day Captain Austin joined Captain Penny. Of the conference which ensued, unhappily, various accounts are given by the opposite parties, and much unfortunate recrimination has ensued. Whatever the facts may be, Captain Penny's orders were, that, if no traces should have been found, such as would warrant the risk of another winter, he was to return home, and having no alternative, he determined on immediately returning to England; and sailed accordingly. Captain Austin sailed to the search of Jones's Sound. His proceedings are soon told; having examined a considerable extent of shore in a sound beyond Cape Horsburgh, supposed to be the Jones's Sound of Baffin, further progress was rendered impracticable by an impenetrable barrier of ice, and the Intrepid having on one occasion been forced up out of the water on the tongue of an iceberg and placed in great danger, Captain Austin deemed it his duty to return to England.

Thus these well-considered ar

rangements, these squadrons fitted with all that a sense of public service and private affection could suggest, officered by men whose performances have proved that they possess enthusiasm not to be exhausted by privation or solitude, and powers of endurance to overcome the most arduous labours, have entirely failed in effecting that labour of duty which has enlisted the sympathies, not of Franklin's countrymen only, but of the whole civilized world.

That duty is not yet, however, considered fulfilled-hope yet remains, and while the faintest spark lingers the nation will not fail: should national hope fail, private enthusiasm, unwilling to confess despair, will renew these efforts in a sacred cause. It was the opinion of the "Arctic Committee" appointed to consider the results of these expeditions, consisting of Admirals Bowles and Fanshawe, and the experienced Arctic navigators Sir W. E. Parry, Sir W. Beechey, and Sir George Back, that the researches of Captain Austin's parties afford a strong presumption that Sir John Franklin did not pass that way; and conjecture, therefore, naturally turns towards Wellington Strait, to which it is well known Franklin had often looked as affording one chance of a passage to the north-west;" and the Report then proceeds:

"It is not without considerable hesitation and anxiety that we proceed to reply to the last point on which their Lordships request our opinion; namely, What benefits can be expected from any further researches, with the means and directions in which the committee are of opinion that such search should be prosecuted.'

"We should deeply grieve at

being considered capable of treating with coldness or indifference the natural and praiseworthy feelings of those who are still without certain information of the fate of their nearest and dearest relatives, who in this state naturally cling to hope even against hope,' and whose thoughts (as might be expected) turn eagerly towards further explorations, in any and every direction; but we have felt at the same time, while considering calmly and carefully this difficult question, that we have an equally important duty to perform towards those brave and meritorious men whose lives must be risked in this arduous and perilous search, and to reflect in what manner it may be best conducted with a due regard to their safety.

"Taking, therefore, all these circumstances into consideration, we have, after a most careful and anxious deliberation, decided on recommending to their Lordships that an expedition should be dispatched next year to Barrow's Strait, consisting of the same ships which composed Captain Austin's division, namely, two sailing ships and two steamers, with orders to pro

"We consider any further exploration in the direction of Melville Island, or to the south-west of Cape Walker, wholly unnecessary; and we would therefore propose that the whole strength and energy of the expedition should be directed towards the examination of the upper part of Wellington Strait; and we are of opinion that by the adoption of the same careful and well-considered arrangements which were attended with such satisfactory results on the late occasion, this examination may be effected without any serious risk of loss or danger."

For their eminent services on these expeditions, Lieutenants Aldrich, Cator, and McClintock were promoted to be Commanders; Mates Hamilton, May, and Cheyne to be Lieutenants; Second Masters Krabbé, McDougall, and Allard to be Masters; other officers also received a step in reward of their exertions.

IN

N the ANNUAL REGISTER of last year was given an account of the origin and progress of the design of the Great Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations; and of the stupendous and beautiful edifice erected for the display of the products of all the regions of the world, collected in pursuance of that undertaking.

The description there given is chiefly confined to the operative details; but as the building itself was not the least remarkable of the products of Art, Science, and Industry, which the occasion called forth, the general effect of the exterior and interior properly forms part of the description of the Exhibition, as such. As to the exterior, a general comprehensive view from a well-chosen point of sight, and a moderate distance, embraced an edifice of which it was instantly felt that that part on which the eye most naturally rested was at once vast and beautiful; -the semicircular end and roof of the great transept rose from its apparent base in beautiful and majestic proportion, and was carried back into a perspective as unusual as it was pleasing by the ridge-and-furrow arrangement of its arched ribs and glazing;-but from this fine centre, the nave ran east and

west to a length disproportioned both to its width and height. The peculiarity of its form tended greatly to exaggerate this defect, except from a very lofty point of sight; for as the width of the aisles was equal to their height, the outermost ridge or parapet shut off from the eye of a near spectator the whole or great part of the rise of the inner aisles and nave; indeed to such an extent, that a spectator viewing the building from any close point would see the transept-end in its full height and proportion, rising from a building extending 800 feet right and left, and not more than 24 feet in height. Had the roof of the nave been vaulted, in the same manner as the transept-as was in fact proposed-this dis-sight would have been avoided, and the effect would probably have been as fine as has ever been witnessed. In singular and agreeable contrast with the great circles of the transept view was the rectilinear beauty of the east and west ends. Rising tier above tier in just gradations, the slender columns crowning each other without a fault, the girders forming a beautiful frieze, the bays filled in with semicircular headings, the parapet fringed with a trefoil ornament, and the points