Passed also, of course, the Lurleyberg, (where a high wind carried away the regulation echoes,) the Cat, and Mouse, and Hatto, and modernized Vautsberg towers, and spoilt (because repaired and re-roofed) gothical Baccharach, and all manner of 'fels's' and 'bachs.' To a German the Rhine must be the very heart of fatherland,—and France can never claim it as a barrier as once schemed, without an equally full and strong river of blood.

Well, after our picturesque voyage and all its fleeting pleasure, here we are at Mayence, hotel de Hollande, a palace as always. After needful restauration we went as of course first to the Cathedral, and were much struck with its wealth in ancient sepulchres and alto-relievo gravestones, Bishops and Dukes and Electors sleeping there superbly. The fine lofty Norman arches have a choir at each end; and when, as originally, frescoed, the church must have been splendid; even in their humbler whitewash the proportions show sublime. Went up to the top of the tower with all my following, and oversaw the town, and the Rhine, and all neighbourings with a bird's eye: it's always worth while climbing for a view. Mems.: the Minnesinger's tomb, lately subscribed by poetical ladies; the priests' cloister, the tall Archbishops crowning little kings, the rare stone

pulpit, the Arimathæan altarpiece, the bronze baptistery, the floridly carved apse, St. Martin on the roof, the clock, and more beside: Guttenberg's statue and entablatures; and the Prussian plus-Austrian plus-native garrisons: poor Duke Darmstadt's feeling must be "save me from my friends."

25th.-Went early in force to the Museum, full of Roman gravestones and altars, and ancient Hebrew inscriptions on stone: also, plenty of Roman bronzes, fibulæ, arms, beads, vases, glass, and other Farleyana: item : drawersfull of coins, diligently rubbed bright! - those who can whitewash frescoes, would of course scrape off patina. Thence to the library, to see some early specimens of Guttenberg's printing; and thence to the picture gallery some fine Titians, and a Guido Europa, with plenty more, including a splendid Albert Durer Adam and Eve, and some better Rubenses than usual.

A ramble through the town to the Dom again, whereof one must lament how much its warm red quaintly-carved architecture is smothered up with houses: in the cloisters we trod the sculptured tombs of kings and priests. Thence to an Augustin church, finely frescoed and decorated, and with a marble life-size taking-down

from-the-Cross for high altar.

Afterward to the Ramparts and Drusus Tower, an old Roman relic of enormous thickness, a look-out of great elevation for the legionary watchman, overtopping all the town, fortifications, and river, nearly as high as the Dom tower. Further to St. Stephen's, where we had the benefit of seeing St. Willibeg's skull, founder of the church; and amongst other notabilia, remember the high and huge brass candlesticks.

In all these churches there are most painful representations of Christ on the Cross, with gaping wounds; and I like not the habit one gets into of regarding such subjects merely as works of pictorial art and curiosity: HIS remembrance ought always to be not only sacred, but also affectionate to us: but these so numerous pictures and life-like figures of the dying Christ do not operate as they are intended, so far as my experience goes; and the reason is their dissimilarity; you might spiritually idolize one representation, but the differences in fifty or five hundred ruin the one idea. It is a mistake to help out the ideal by the real; Romanists have converted their places of worship far too entirely into collections or rareeshows of sculpture and painting; and, service over, it seems to me that the choicest relics are accounted only as objects for the sceptical

equally with the believing traveller, to pay a Your sacristan is not very devout

fee to see.

about such matters, except at mass.

Again off, by way of the bridge of boats and railway, through an uninteresting but fertile country, to Frankfort, reaching it in one hour and a quarter. A rainy evening; but nevertheless accomplished a long ramble about the city going into two churches, one (St. Leonard's) of high and interesting antiquity :—its plain columns have no capitals, and it is said to be as old as Charlemagne. Goëthe's fine statue, a picturesquely-extinguishered old gate tower, divers antique gables and façades,— some houses covered with carving and fresco, and some fountains,-with the bridge and river, are rememberable. Bought some mementos; and after journalizing, to the usual uncomfortable springy German bed.

26th.-Purchased some dark spectacles for my poor little pur-blind Willy; and looked over a lot of ivory and stag's-horn carvings; yesterday having bought a gem of a brooch.

After breakfast, hired a carriage and drove with all the seven about Frankfort to wit, the Jews' quarter, and Rothschild's house ; the new Synagogue; the Dom, and Luther's birth-house; the Bourse, Roemer's fountain,

Kaiserstool, with the imperial portraits, St. Paul's, Goethe's birth-house and statue, and coincidence as to his three-lyred heraldry; the public gardens, and boulevard, and country dwellings of merchant princes; Gutenberg and his two friends, in bronze; the Hesse Philipstall monument; Charlemagne's statue, &c., &c. Having used up enough time in charioteering for the Ariadne and museums to be visibleat half-past ten-we went first (after twentyfive years' interval, no small cantle of my life) to see again the true idol and stone-flower of Frankfort, Danneker's Ariadne. Woman's form is always the most attractive object in creation, and so Mr. Bethmann gets a great amount of popularity by his gratuitous exhibition of this beautiful shape: I am glad to find that the lady is soon to have a less shabby dwelling, and more worthy compeers than the fifth-rate casts about her she looks very charming, however, for the contrast, as everybody knows: blushing all over, like an Astræa, by virtue of pink calico. Thence to M. Stadtt's munificent gift to his native city,-a splendid gallery of paintings, and some sculptures: John Huss's intelligent face remains on my mind's retina, as also does the portrait of an infant in a child's chair, by Rubens; and some exquisite Canalettis, Van Dykes, Van Eycks,