and so à l'hotel. Met certain clerical acquaintances who knew me and Brother William : parsonry out for a holiday in bristly new mustachios: I don't know that there's much harm or blame in emulating herein Leighton and Bunyan-but the vanity thereof is not praiseworthy; and they will feel small at having to shave these ornamentals off some three weeks hence; but they must,-for besides the custom of the cloth, these masqueraded men are schoolmasters! Pretty well all the English abroad renounce the razor except myself; I admit they are right at present; but as I should not like to sacrifice a splendid pair of mustachios at one coup, and could not without alledged affectations wear them at home, I prefer the tonsure as usual.

Never has been such a wet July known at Heidelberg as this; and the Neckar brims with muddy water not but that, by dint of letting it rain, as the wise men are said to do in Spain, and caring nothing for it, one gets about well enough. Just before dinner, comes in Dr. Ma good-looking friend, and a pleasant; as a clear gain on a rainy day, I kept him to dinner and Neckar Mousseux. Talks about divers things personal and literary; item, about German students, of whom he speaks well, as a much improved and fairly conducted body of young

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men; and about my poor little Willy's eyes and a certain celebrated oculist Dr. Chelius, whom I am to consult in the matter. Thereafter went with my friend to the University Library, and saw some old monkish MSS. of Thucydides, Plutarch, Xenophon, &c. : also MS. treatises and letters by Luther, (his know-nothingism)— Melancthon and others. Thence, the thundershowers holding up, drove to Charlottenberg and left a card of honour on Chevalier B- —; seeing that he had been the vehicle of a certain gold medal years ago,-and that he is now in disgrace for his English and Anti-Russian propensities.

This devoir done, which involved also the pleasure of a beautiful drive on the north side of the Neckar, proceeded with my flock in a three-horse drosky to the top of the Königsthal, the highest mountainette hereabouts with a wind-whistly tower atop, from which we enjoyed a most extensive and beautiful panorama of-on dit-in some directions 70 miles of radius. The English tourists there; and the Swiss way-house coming down, with its really good Heidelberg beer; and grand view overlooking the ruins :-and so to tea, pretty late. Our expedition cost a pound, but paid us; it is always worth while going up "Excelsius" (why did Longfellow write it

"Excelsior?") for a view; and middle-aged folk and female folk had better drive than walk, if they have the chance. From the Königsthal, we overlooked the course of the Neckar, and Rhine, the Bergstrasse, and a whole tumbled country of hills, alternating with an ironed-out garden of plain; Vosges mountain and Switzer in the distance. Mems: the wooden drag; cows in carts; slouched hats and short jackets of the peasantry; the indifferent statuary on the Neckar Bridge; and glorious view of Heidelberg and its chateau from over the water.

29th, Sunday.-Rain: went in two droskies to the English chapel, occupying and paying duly for a whole regiment of chairs: the congregation as usual more devout than their [casual] parson, who stupidly enough indulged us with a discourse against the doctrine of consciousness after death, by way of argument to refute purgatory: to oppose the papist he actually sided with the infidel. He announced that the Bishop in partibus is coming this summer up the Rhine on a confirmation tour. I wish his spiritual Fathership would see about the Church of England being better represented abroad both as to clergy and chapels : at present, it is all in a very hole and corner way, and the ministers in most places are very

indifferent. After church, met Captain, who (but I had heard nothing of it) had been expecting me last night to his weekly chess party, and had asked a "banished lord" and divers more to meet me. After dinner, went with Dr. M, to call on Dr. Chelius, (unfortunately out of town at Manheim,) and thereafter on Dr. Wolf, for an opinion about those poor cataract-eyes; but nothing is to be done, as also home oculists have advised me, till matters get much worse. A walk with all my flock about the ruins and castle gardens, meeting sundry American and other travelling friends: the blown-up tower,-the many points of view of the beautiful chateau,-the band, and the beerdrinking company, and that picturesque segregated table-full of German students.

Went to-day into St. Peter's Lutheran church, to imagine the scene of Jerome's preaching, and Olympia Morata's lecturing: noting also the rather too loud "boast of heraldry" of divers electors and professors; and the Swissy crosses and willows in the pretty churchyard; and the plain table, not an altar, in the middle of the choir. The principal church in Heidelberg, St. Esprit, is divided in the middle by a whitened wall,-one half being Lutheran, the other Romanist: a rare

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instance of practical tolerance in matters of conscience; what can our judicious preacher of this morning think of it?

Monday, 30th.-Last mems: the Gasthofzum-ritter is a fine specimen of 16th century Heidelberg architecture, recalling the days when the picturesque town was full of similar glories the perpetual wood-hewing in the streets, a reminder of German stoves in winter; the tasteless Hercules, heraldic Hessian lion, and religious Madonna, fountains; the fine old church shamefully behutted, made a den of thieves without, -and never accessible within Romanists exhibit their churches, but Protestants err on the other side by hiding them up all over Heidelberg bierbraueries and cigarren shops abound, and hereabouts the whole German people is given up to pipes and beer. Adieux to our excellent host Leyr of the Eagle, and to worthy Dr. M, who would see us off at the rail,-and away by 10 for Ulm.

Throughout the day's traverse of this great kingdom of Wirtemberg, it is very noticeable how English-looking is the whole country plenty of neatly-gabled wood-framed villages crowding round the plain spires of Lutheran churches,-fields and woods and