by their predatory incursions, inspired them with a taste for the arts of civilized life; by a conquest over their minds; the most permanent, as the most rational dominion. The Governor and Council of Bengal, in honour of his character, and for an example to others, have ordered this monument to be erected. He departed this life on the 13th day of January, 1784, aged 29. Having taken leave of our hospitable friends at Bhaugulpore on the 8th, we proceeded down the river, and in the evening went on shore at Colgong. On ascending a hill, where Mr. Cleveland had erected a bungalo, we commanded an extensive view over a country which had been lately overflowed; much of it appears to be a jungle, or forest land. About fifty yards from the shore is a most singular island, which appears to be composed of numberless distinct rocks, intergrown with a variety of trees; on the top is a dirgah, or shrine, having a hermitage devoted to religious retirement, at present inhabited by a celebrated derveish, or Mahomedan saint. On leaving Colgong we passed on the right a long succession of hills: the land between them and the river seemed to have been lately overflowed, and produced only the reed, so generally used throughout this part of India for thatching the houses. We found the main river (which we now re-entered) extremely wide, but af fording nothing particularly interesting, until we approached a re-、 markable point of land, called Peer Payntee, or Saint's-town, whereon was a Mahomedan dirgah, or musjid, in a good style of architecture. We soon after saw a hill with a fort, and a few houses called Taliaghurry, the residence of a rajah so entitled. We next passed Sickligullee, and soon after saw a grand cascade called Mootee-jernah, or the "Fall of Pearls." In the afternoon a very hard gale impeded our progress for many hours. The next day we proceeded by the branch of the river leading to Rajemahl, from whence we viewed this celebrated place. The Jumma-musjid is of great antiquity, and superior architecture; it is now a noble ruin, doubly picturesque by many large trees growing out of the dilapidated walls, and curiously mingling with the massy fragments. The lofty minars are still in good preservation. The steps in each lead to the upper gallery, from whence you enter eight rooms on either side, covered with separate domes, surrounding the magnificent cupola in the centre. The seventeen domes forming the roof are nearly perfect, and seen among the trees produce a fine effect. In front is a spacious area, with a tank, and the remains of a fountain. The principal buildings at Rajemahl front the nullah; some appear to have been extremely grand, but now displayed only an extensive scene of ruins, which we left for Oudanullah, the scene of a British victory over the troops of Cossim Ally Khan. Advancing up the nullah, we viewed the bridge built over it by that nabob; it consists of a single arch, the masonry ornamented with small minars and domes. Two hundred yards in front of this nul lah are the lines of Cossim Ally, still in good order, with a deep fosse twenty yards wide, extending from the Ganges across a swamp to the opposite hills. On the 11th of October, taking a final leave of the main stream of the Ganges, we entered the Bhaughretty, or Cossimbazar branch. The country on the right banks appeared higher than that we had lately passed, and was consequently more dry and comfortable for the inhabitants; yet much of this is low, and the waters had just subsided. Pelicans, cranes, and a variety of aquatic fowl frequent the nullahs, which also abound with fish. The next day we passed Jungepore, famous for its silk manufactory. The houses in this town and all the neighbouring villages have roofs which in shape resemble a hog's back. Much of the country, especially on the right banks, was covered with woods and forests. In the afternoon we arrived at Moorshedabad, the Mogul capital of the province of Bengal; where, having procured bearers, we set off in our palanquins to see a celebrated piece of water, called Mootee-jil, or the "Lake of Pearls." Taking the figure of a horse-shoe, it nearly insulates a considerable space of ground, formerly a beautiful garden, adorning a large palace, now in ruins, and removing for the purpose of building an elegant house for the English resident at the durbar. The Jumma musjid and public buildings at the adjoining city of Cossimbazar resemble those in other large oriental cities. In the nabob's stable was a collection of curious small horses, several not exceeding three feet in height; and one, a most extraordinary dwarf, under that size, had the head, chest, and body of a full-grown horse. We also visited the Cheetah-connah, the place where the nabob's panthers and other animals for hunting are kept. Here were some fine cheetahs, and a beautiful sya-goos, in much esteem for chasing the antelope and other deer. One of the gardens contained a large pellucid tank, stored with tame fish which were taught to repair daily to the steps for food, and perform certain evolutions. We regaled them with sweetmeats from the bazar, and were much amused by their docility. This being the desserah, a great Hindoo festival, annually celebrated not only on shore but on the Ganges or Gunga, and all the tributary streams, which more or less partake of its sanctity, we resolved to delay our departure, and see some part of the ceremonies. At five P. M. the boats began to be in motion; they are of a singular construction, particularly those called Moor-Punkees, or peacock-boats, which are made as much as possible to resemble the peacock; others are decorated with the head and neck of a horse, and different devices: one sort in particular, which proceeds with the greatest velocity with oars, is extremely long and narrow, and on that account called a snake. In the most commodious part of these boats are laid carpets, cushions, and pillows, covered with silk, satin, or keemcobs, fringed and embroidered with gold and silver: especially those which contain the images and religious ornaments; these are placed before the apartment just mentioned, where the wealthy Hindoos are seated: while on a platform near the deities a man dances, sings, and beats time to the oars of the rowers, ornamented with bells. A number of these boats, all in swift motion, the company in their best attire, the images gaudily VOL. IV. decked, and enwreathed with flowers, the songs and dances of the choristers, uniting with the stroke of the oars and paddles, gave a lively interest to the scene. Some of these boats are rowed by forty paddles, each with its bells. The attitudes of the dancers before the images were frequently not only indelicate but disgusting. At night the illuminations commenced, but being only in the usual style, we left the festive scene; and passing the factory at Cossimbazar (which by the artificial lights appeared to be a very extensive building) we proceeded to Burhanpore, and the next day dined at the cantonments, which are more convenient, though less elegant, than those already described; but so unusually high have been the inundations of the present year, that the cantonments at Burhanpore are entirely insulated, and the road to Cossimbazar impracticable. On the 16th we reached Plassey, which gives the title of Baron to Lord Clive, in honour of the victory he obtained on the adjoining plains, over the troops of Serajah Dowlah in 1757. We visited that memorable spot, with the hunting-seat called Plassey-house, and the immense tope, or mango grove, which will long identify the place which gave such a happy turn to the English arms and interest in India. The surrounding country abounds with beasts of prey, and game of every description. A gentleman lately engaged on a shooting-party in the wilds of Plassey, gave us an account of their success in one month, from August the 15th to September the 14th, in which space they killed one royal tiger, six wild buffaloes, one hundred and eighty-six hog-deer, twenty-five wild hogs, eleven |