difficult to find a lonely field; and when balanced and distributed bodily forces. winter-sport centres became more nu- So, as I turn the pages of The British merous, popular, and populous, I be- Ski Year Book for 1925, I find a casual

, gan to notice that young men did not sentence like this: ‘Tor Klaveness, cling closely to poles, and that they who won the Oxford and Cambridge gave to those who did the contemp Ski Race twice, and the Kandahar Race tuous name of 'stick-riders.' I was un- in what was, perhaps, the fastest time doubtedly a stick-rider, and, not being a

ever recorded for a pure downhill race avid of contempt, even from the young, (1,700 feet in under three minutes), I and my pole became disinclined to never used his sticks.' public appearance.

The hero! But his day will come. And then the skiing-fields suddenly As for the editor himself, nothing became a battle-ground. Young men but the Alps from end to end will conhurled volumes and articles at each tent him as a skiing-ground. So comes other. They proved by dynamics that true the beginning of the old Irish the turns the other fellows made story: ‘One fine day, at six o'clock in could n't be done, or, if they could, the evening, as I was sailing over the should n't. They invented a whole new tops of the mountains in my little boat vocabulary of terms, which no one ac

Mr. Lunn sails gracefully over cepted but the makers. They set the tops of mountains on his little ski. binding against binding, and were even Skiing has developed tremendously, contentious about wax. They founded but at the usual cost. Like lawn tennis, societies, and hated each other = it has ceased to be a pleasant pastime collectively — very fiercely. The only and has become an affair of gladiators. point upon which they agreed, I grieve The young victors have sat down and to say, was the utter abominableness of turned a diversion into a Tripos. They my cherished pole. A man might have have compiled a syllabus full of diftwo slender sticks, — provided that he ficulties. They hold annual examinanever used them, — but in no circum- tions. They plough competitors as

stances whatsoever might he have a ruthlessly as they plough the snow. pole.

Every winter-sport centre is now a In the whirl of battle I discerned one Wimbledon, and I and my pole would clear and saddening fact — namely, make as much sensation, at even the that though my wicked guide had least of them, as the appearance of a taught me how to use a pole, he had young lady in the centre court playing never taught me how to use the ski it- the vicarage-garden tennis of the self. I became acutely aware of this at eighties. So I am resigned to my lot. I Engelberg, where the juvenile monks am not merely outmoded; I am extinct. from the adjacent monastery disported But I know my place. I shall not furthemselves on the snow in a way that row the brows of the ‘Technical Comwas beyond my understanding. And mittee' by infamous conduct. I leave even they were but novices. What 'Slaloms' and 'Tests' to the ferocious the new technique of the experts young, henceforth and forever. I hope did was to pluck the learner from his to spend my coming of age on the snow, pole and set him on his feet. Ski- but there will be no skis on me. It is ing became, thereafter, an affair of time I took to curling.





It is remarkable that one can motor little cargo; and seven experienced over an unbroken road six hundred rivermen put the entire lot across the kilometres north from Manila, and ford in forty minutes in the face of an still more remarkable that a similar unusually heavy wind bustling quartrip is possible in the opposite direction relsomely down through the gap of the from the Islands' capital, through the mountains and pitting itself against southeastern provinces of this huge the men's sorely tried endurance for Luzon, whose physical extent we only the privilege of whisking their burden begin to realize, and whose grandeur out to sea, fragile raft and all. we only begin to enjoy, as engineers’ But we crossed in perfect safety, not blueprints materialize in roadand bridge only the Abra, but the Amburayan at appropriations and eventually into the Tagudin and the dozen lesser streams actual roads — with occasional bridges. between Bauang, the end of the railBut with the roads in, the bridges will road, -six hours by motor from Mafollow; and if they don't all follow im- nila -- and Bangui, the end of the road, mediately, some can wait; certainly a at the extreme northwest point of part of the thrill in traveling from Luzon, whence a pony ride of two days Manila to Bangui, through the Ilocano over a mountain trail through wildprovinces via Bauang, Vigan, Laoag, tribe country will take one to Aparri, and twenty other picture-card towns, is the Cagayan River port and outlet of ferrying the car across unbridged rivers the Cagayan Valley. on bamboo rafts or balsas.

We did not essay this trail. We simTo realize the strength and buoy- ply saluted the justice of the peace at ancy of bamboo, observe these rafts. Bangui, drove around the plaza, and got Count the poles, perhaps the largest out of the car and let the ladies climb less than five inches in diameter at the over the ruins of the old church while butt. At Abra Gap, where there are we explored the remains of what had wind and tide and the sprawling, been an appetizing lunch. We observed moody Abra River to contend against, that a few eucalyptus trees skirted the the raft upon which a heavy seven- plaza and were large and thriving, and passenger car was ferried across was then drove back to Laoag for merienda, built of sixty of these poles. Besides or dinner, in Vigan an hour and a half four passengers and the driver, fifty later. Altogether it was a wonder-trip other persons were aboard, with no of two hundred and fifty kilometres of 1 From American Chamber of Commerce Journal

seagirt, valley-bounded, and mountain(Manila trade monthly), January

sheltered travel completed in a day.

Bangui is one hundred and fifty kilo- Yet from this very region thousands metres north of Vigan, which is four of top-notch workmen are annually hundred and fifty kilometres from recruited for the sugar plantations in Manila. We had stopped overnight at Hawaii, where good hard money will Laoag, on the way up the coast, with reward their labor. friends who accommodate parties with School-teachers told us that young proper credentials. In these northern men who have gone through school, provinces the valleys are not extensive especially well up into high school, like those of central Luzon. They de- don't go back to the fields when they bouch into comparatively narrow can no longer afford to study, or when coastal plains, and much of the total repeated failures have taught them or area is mountainous. Although one their supporting relatives that further thousand acres and more of rice may study would be useless. They have be seen growing in a single field, it is then learned to wear white clothes and divided among many owners.

The esteem bodily cleanliness. They therefarms are small, and quite commonly fore proceed to make the wearing of owned by the families working them. white clothes an occupation, varied The farmers here are more industrious with the occasional excitement of politthan those in the central Luzon prov- ical campaigns wherein they may be inces where tenancy is prevalent. In petty leaders, depended upon to hathe Ilocano provinces at this time of rangue their less favored brethren and year one sees rice-fields being prepared bring out the vote. Their number is for tobacco. Elsewhere 'catch' crops legion, and the schools throughout the are being planted, or sugar cane three provinces are overcrowded. is growing and will be harvested This year all three provinces harin time to turn the land back into vested a heavy rice-crop. The tobacco rice.

looks in good condition. The grazingMen plod along the roads, lively with industry is of considerable importance. the traffic of well-built carts drawn by Cargoes of beef cattle are regularly trotting bulls, carrying distaffs in their shipped to Manila in coastal schooners, hands. They spin as they walk, and and carabaos and horses are sold into the women weave fine cloths of cotton, the provinces farther south. The nucotton-silk, and silk. Wood-carving merous coves form safe harbors for and brush-making are household in- schooners, which are moored close to dustries. When the embroidery firms the shore at high tide. Planks are then of Manila extend their activities into laid across from shore to ship-side, and this region they will find it a very pro- they and the gangway into the hold are ductive one. The women appear par

banked over with rice straw. Thus deticularly industrious; they are seen ceived, the animals are loaded without working in the fields, building roads, difficulty, and in a good breeze the run and digging irrigation ditches — draw- to Manila is not a long one. ing a man's wages and doing a man's Along the enchanting road from work. The men work too, about as Manila to Bangui we were constantly much as they do elsewhere in the Is- catching glimpses up into valleys lands, where their energy is confined to strung like a chain of emeralds along a what is hardly more than subsistence coral coast. Towns brushed by at inagriculture, and they have no ambi- tervals, brown-thatched villages with tions extending beyond the sound of old Roman red-brick churches and the church-tower bells.

whitewashed conventos, and high de


tached campaniles that were once, no

after their memories are forgotten. doubt, fortifications to protect the Father Juan Davila introduced cacao parishoners against marauding Moros from Mexico; another brought in cofand the depredations of wild tribes fee; still another invented a tool for from the hills. In the mountain folds stripping hemp that persists in comwatchtowers are occasionally visible, use to this day. Still another towers with turret-tops where fires taught the natives the art of retting might be kept burning, whence torch- fibres in running water.

All were signals could be flashed, and cannons builders of churches, convents, and fired upon fleets of Moro vintas en- roads. The highway to Bangui from deavoring a landing in an adjacent Manila embraces many sections of old cove.

Spanish roads and causeways, and It is an old country, old and pic- crosses many ancient Spanish bridges, turesque, with great edifices of the centuries old but still as good as when missionary Church, the pride in by- first constructed. Therefore this trip is gone times of the devoted priests who not only charming as a pleasant excurbuilt them, but crumbling now beneath sion into the provinces, but it affords the burden of the encroaching jungle. opportunities for an interesting study Soon they will be buried with the for- of past and present, of how the best of

, gotten glories of a great and gallant the new under American administraage. Were we to search in their old tion has been imposed upon the best of records, though these mostly dis- the old under Spanish rule. appeared during the sanguinary nine- Beyond Antipolo, at the precipitous ties, we should learn how more than crest of a promontory overlooking a one missionary expedition left the coast and roadway of unsurpassed nearest little port for Nagasaki, which beauty, stands Bojeador lighthouse, soon became a Christian city.

which should be visited for the magnifOld pictures in the repaired churches icent view from the tower. On the one and convents frequently depict martyr- hand the coast sweeps ruggedly away dom suffered by the early fathers. The to the eastward, and on the other the arts the friars taught the people, the eye ranges out to sea and a limitless industries they established, remain horizon.




As I lay quietly in the grass,

Half dreaming, half awake,
I saw four children barefoot pass

Across the tufted brake:
The sky was glass, the pools were glass,

And not a leaf did shake.

The autumn berries clustered thick,

Seldom I met with more;
I thought these children come to pick,

As many picked before;
Each had a long and crooked stick,

And crowns of ash they wore.

But not one berry did they take;

Gliding, I watched them go
Hand in hand across the brake

With sallies to and fro.
So half asleep and half awake

I guessed what now I know.

They were not children, live and rough,

Nor phantoms of the dead, But spirits woven of airy stuff

By wandering fancy led, Creatures of silence, fair enough,

No sooner seen than sped.

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