Autumn Bergamot: smaller than the Summer Bergamot the flesh is melting, the juice highly perfumed. A great bearer. Ripens early in October.

Gansell's Bergamot.

Brown Beurre: a reddish brown next the sun, yellowish on the other side; the flesh melting, full of rich juice. Ripens in October. An excellent Pear.

Doyenne, or St. Michael.

Swan's Egg: middle size, egg-shape; green; flesh melting, full of pleasant, musky juice. Comes in eating in November. Bears well.

III. WINTER PEARS. The Crasane: the flesh extremely tender and buttery, full of rich sugared juice. The very best of the season: into eating late in December.

comes

The Chaumontelle (wilding of Chaumontelle) is melting; the juice very rich is in eating in January.

The St. Germain is a fine fruit and keeps long; the flesh is melting, and very full of juice;

which, in a dry season is very sweet: it is in eating from December till February.-NOTE. In dry seasons, fruit should not be suffered to sweat so long in the heaps, as directed in treating of gathering and laying up fruit. Perhaps two weeks will be long enough, says Mr. Forsyth.

The Colmar Pear is very tender; the juice greatly sugared. Is in eating about the first of January. The D'Auch Pear much resembles the Colmar; but is fuller towards the stalk; and is in eating from Christmas to April; "and without exception is the best of all the winter Pears.". L'Esschaserie has flesh melting and buttery; the juice sugary. In eating early in January. The Winter Bonchretien Pear is very large; the flesh tender and breaking, and is very full of a rich sugared juice. It is in eating from the end of March till June.

The Bergamot de Pasque, goes also by the names of, the Terling, the Amoselle, the Paddington and the Tarquin. It is a fine handsome fruitgreen when gathered-yellowish when ripe. Comes into eating in April, continues till Juneand makes a handsome appearance at table,

Mr. Forsyth advises, that instead of choosing young Pear-Trees to plant out, the oldest in the nursery should be looked for and preferred, with strong stems: to take them up carefully with as much root as possible, and carefully plant them, after cutting the roots a little, spreading them as horizontally as can be. Then fill up all round the roots, with light, dry mould, forcing it in about those which lie hollow with a pointed stick ; filling the whole up to the top, without treading the mould till the hole is first filled with as much water as it will contain, leaving it a day or two, until the ground has absorbed the water: then throw on some fresh, dry mould, and tread it as hard as it can be; fill the hole up again with mould to within an inch of the top, and give it a second watering, leaving the mould three inches higher than the border, to settle of itself, and receive rain that falls; for at least a month. When the mould is became quite dry, it may be trod a second time; then make a large bason round the tree, and give it another watering; then mulch the top over with rotten leaves or dung, observing to water the trees once a week in dry weather, and sprinkle the tops frequently with a pot or hand-engine, to keep the wood from shrivelling till the trees have taken fresh root.

In planting trees against a wall, let the stem stand sloping towards it; its lower part being no more nor less than six inches from the bottom of the wall, that the stem may have room to grow; and let the stem not lean, but be perfectly upright. When standards are planted a foot or two from the wall, it gives them a disagreeable appearance: six inches, he says, will be full enough.

When the buds begin to break well, head the trees to three or four eyes, for filling the wall with fine wood. Never head them afterwards, except the leading shoot, to fill the wall; leaving the foreright shoots to be pruned.--Mr. F. says, he had trees giving forty Pears the second year; while some of the same kind bore only eleven Pears the fourteenth year after planting, with the common method of pruning.

If any of the trees get stunted after a number of years, nothing more, he says, is to be done but to head them, as he directs, which will restore them into fresh vigour and fruitfulness.

The method, he says, of pruning Pear-trees is very different from that practised for Apple-trees,

in general. [See pl. VII. Letters C. and D.] Mr. F. supposes it would be between twelve and fourteen years before he could obtain any fruit from young Pear-trees. But he makes a comparative experiment in pruning or heading Pear-trees. He cut down four old and decayed Pear-trees, of different kinds, near where they had formerly been grafted: this was performed the 15th May. Finding that they put forth fine shoots, he headed down four more on the 20th of June, of the same year, (by which time the former had shoots a foot long), which did equally well, and bore some fruit in the following year. One of the first four headed down, was a St. Germain, which produced nineteen fine large well-flavored Pears next year, [see Letter B. pl. VII.] and in the third bore more fruit than in its former state it ever did, when it was four times the size. He left seven trees upon an east wall, treated according to the common method of pruning, which bore as follows:

The number of Pears produced upon each of seven trees that had been treated according to the common method of pruning, viz.

1. Epine d'Hyver produced eighty-six pears, and the tree spread fifteen yards.