It must be observed, the shoots should be brought as near as possible from the bottom of the Vines, that the wall may be well covered. When the walls are high, and the shoots from the serpentine branches strong, they may sometimes be suffered to remain. If the walls are low, and the serpentine branches give weak shoots, they are to be cut in the autumnal pruning, and the strongest of the young wood is trained up in their room, as directed in the explanation of pl. X.

The wood, in pruning and training Vines, must be strong, or the Vines will produce small bunches. If that be the case, cut them down to two or three eyes, in order to have strong wood for the next year. Vines bear their fruit on the wood that was produced the preceding year. The deal of old naked wood that occurs, and small weak shoots at the extremities, always cut down as near to the ground as possible. There then will be no fruit for that year. Or cut every other shoot, leaving the old ones to produce some small grapes. The next year there will be plenty of fine wood, if care has been taken to nail-in the strongest shoots, and pick off the side shoots produced from the eyes; pinching off with finger and thumb, or with a sharp pen-knife cutting

them out close to the bud or eye; but never twist them by twisting them, the bud will be hurt that produces the grapes next year; always cutting as near to a bud as possible, and laying in the wood very thin in summer; so it will grow very strong. Pick of all side shoots as often as there is nailing to the wall, which will be several times in the summer months.

Suffer not the Vines to run together in a cluster, and to mat, which will ruin their bearing the next season. Top the shoots trained serpentine-like, soon as the grapes are as big as very small green peas, a joint or two above the fruit; but never top the leading shoot, nor which is intended to give fruit

next year.

In the second year's pruning, observe not to prune Vines till the beginning of February, unless in case of uncommon forwardness in the season. It is common with some, to begin pruning soon after the fall of the leaf, before the wood becomes hard: but if a frost sets in before the wood is hard, especially after wet summers and autumns, it will be much injured. Mr. F. has seen Vines almost killed after autumnal pruning. When the Vine leaves begin to fall, take

a soft broom and sweep them off, upwards, in a gentle manner, which helps to harden the wood.

In beginning to prune in February, make choice of the strongest and longest shoots; leaving them as long as the eyes are found good and plump, and the wood round; but never leave them when they become flat; for in that case they seldom bear fruit; and if they do, it will be very small. Mr. F. never lays in any that has less than fifteen, and from that to thirty good eyes, which will produce two bunches from every good eye. He has had seventy bunches of grapes from one shoot.

The shoots that bore fruit in the preceding year should be cut out next year; except when the wall is to be filled, and the shoots are very strong. A plenty of fine, healthy young wood is always to be had, if there be care in pruning in the winter; therefore, he says, never leave any but fine strong wood, always cutting at the second, third or fourth eye, rubbing off the lowest bud, and that which comes out at the joint between the new and last year's wood. Thus as much fruit is got from these short shoots, as would be by the common pruning.

Always leave two or three of the strongest shoots for next year's bearing wood, and never top them : and, if there is a want of room to train them, they may be led over the tops of the other trees, or run them behind the standards; which will have a beautiful appearance when the fruit is ripe.

The composition presented by Mr. Forsyth to the world, through the bounty of the government and Parliament of Great-Britain, is always to be applied as soon as possible after pruning. The Vine is very porous, and soon imbibes wet and moisture, which soon bring it to decay.

If a Vine, from being cut late, should bleed, the powder is to be applied, and repeated till the bleeding is stopped.

To try the effect of the powder in stopping the bleeding of Grape-Vines, Mr. F. cut two strong Vine branches in June, and three more in July, in very hot weather. The sap rose so strong that it worked out at the top in a froth: on applying the powder, it was in a short time entirely stopped.

Watering Vines.

When the grapes are set and begin to swell, water them with the barrow-engine; sprinkling all over the leaves and fruit, pressing the fore finger over the top of the pipe, so that the water can be thrown as fine as small rain.

Insects on Grapes.

Soon as the large fly, &c. appears, have bottles, a good number, about half full with some sweet liquor, where the insects will be drowned. Hang the bottles all over the Vines, and some at the bottom of the walls. Hang them up early, as the blue fly comes much earlier than the wasp, and is not less destructive.

Against birds, nets or bunting are to be thrown over the grapes.

It is a bad practice to take off the leaves from Vines soon after the fruit is set; which prevents the fruit from swelling, and it becomes hard and small, apt to crack.

Grapes are kept wrapped in soft paper, and covered, layer and layer, with bran well dried: but short