cover the beds with rotten dung, leaves, or old tan, before laying on the pavement.-If the autumn be wet, don't sow till February, or March, early.

Hoe between the nuts in the rows. The summer proving dry, water them once or twice a week. By October, or the following spring, they may be put into beds, in rows a foot apart, and four inches in the row, to remain two years longer; carefully trimming all the side shoots, leaving only one straight stem.

When planted out for good, let it rather be in autumn; they are to stand till the next spring twelvemonth, and then are headed down to two eyes above ground, cutting near as may be to an eye, and sloping to the north, that the shoot which is thrown out may cover the stem in the first season, which it will do, and grow six or seven feet.-If they are not beaded down in this manner, they will never be straight, handsome trees. Young trees must not be headed down immediately after transplanting. They ought to be well rooted before that operation is performed and it is to be observed, that the larger the stems are when headed, the stronger and more luxurient will the shoots be.

WALNUTS.

THOSE commonly cultivated in England are varieties from the common walnut, viz.-The double, the large, the French, the thin-skinned, and the late.

They are best raised from the nut, gathered full ripe. The thin-shelled are preferred for this purpose. When ripe, let them remain till they begin to drop off of themselves: shaking the tree will then bring them down. Beating with poles injures the tree much, by breaking the young shoots. They will be fit to transplant the first autumn after sowing, if they have thriven well-if not, let them continue another year.-Bed them out in the manner directed for Chesnuts; transplanting every second or third year, until planted out for good. This causes their throwing out fine horizontal roots, and bring them to a bearing state much sooner than when they make deep tap-roots.

Train them up with fine single stems to seven feet high, before they are suffered to form heads; the branches will also be out of the reach of cattle. The time of transplanting them out, depends on their

progress in the nursery: they must remain there till they have grown to a tolerable size, and to the height just mentioned as proper for standards."

The ground is to be well plowed or trenched; and the trees to be planted, at first, in rows six feet apart, and the same distance from tree to tree in the rows, in quincunx order; and thus remain until they come into bearing. After making choice of the best frait-trees, the other trees may be planted for timber, or made use of in stakes or any other way. The bearing trees must be thinned as they increase in size, till they are at the proper distance for fullgrown trees, which may be 24 to 48 fect, according to the richness of soil and progress in the trees' growth.

In trimming stems of Walnut-trees, cut off the shoots and small branches close to the bole; and in lopping, cutting out cross branches, or such as are damaged by winds and accidents, always cut at a fork or eye; otherwise a part of the branch will die and injure the tree. But be it a part or the whole cut off, the composition is to be immediately applied..

Walnuts thrive best in a deep, rich soil. They are well worth cultivating: the yearly value of the fruit being very considerable. There is a great deal made by thinning the nuts for pickling, for home and foreign markets. At Beddington, about 50 Walnut-trees, and but half of them full bearers, have been let at £30. £40. and £50. according to the crop and the renter is thought to clear £50. by the bargain.

The leaves of Walnuts steeped in boiling water, and that infusion mixed with lime-water, soapsuds and urine, is very efficacious in destroying slugs and worms in the ground, and insects on trees.

Walnuts for keeping should drop of themselves, and afterwards be laid in an open airy place till they are thoroughly dried: then pack them in jars, boxes, or casks, with fine clear sand, well dried in the sun, in an oven, or before the fire, in layers of sand and walnuts alternately; set them in a dry place, but not where it is too hot. They so are kept till the end of April. If they

ever become

shrivelled steep them in milk and water, six or

eight hours.

I.

GRAFTING AND BUDDING:

AND

ON USING COMPOSITION INSTEAD OF GRAFTING-CLAY.

MR. FORSYTH gives directions for rendering grafting plain and easy to those who have not been regularly instructed in the art from general practice; and he adds a method followed by him for some years; and which, he thinks, will be found an improvement.

The shoots or cions used in grafting, called also grafts, are to be chosen with observing the following directions carefully:-1st. That they are shoots of the former year. 2dly. Always take them from healthy, fruitful trees. If they be sickly trees, the grafts often partake of the distemper; and if taken from young luxuriant trees, they may continue to produce luxuriant shoots, but are seldom so productive as those taken from fruitful trees, whose shoots are more compact, and the joints closer together. 3dly. Prefer those grafts taken from the lateral or horizontal branches, to those of the strong perpendicular shoots.