are either tilted up or drawn off for a few hours; and when put on for the night, air is left on. In the morning, if the day is likely to be hot, they are gently dewed overhead with a very fine rose or syringe. Under such treatment they root without making much top-growthvery little, indeed, as compared with similar cuttings struck later in the season in warmer quarters.

When they have made roots about an inch long, they are pricked off into round pans 14 inches in diameter, and 5 to 7 inches deep. For the more healthy and vigorous-growing kinds, boxes answer very well; but I prefer earthenware to wood for delicate sorts, such as Purple King. The pans are prepared by placing a thin layer of finely-broken crocks in the bottom, then a layer of old mushroom dung, and they are filled up with a very substantial compost, consisting of equal parts of loam and mushroom dung and a slight addition of sand. About thirty plants are dibbled into each pan, with as little injury to their short young roots as possible. They are then returned to cold frames, shaded slightly for a few days, and as soon as possible, but gradually, fully exposed to all weathers except heavy rains. They grow rapidly, and are repeatedly stopped and kept free from bloom-buds as they grow. They are placed in their winter-quarters about the middle of October, and by that time they are strong healthy plants, leaving not a vestige of the soil in the pans to be seen. From their vigorous and hardy condition they can be wintered in an airy, cool, dry house or pit, from which frost can be excluded. We make up from eighty to a hundred such pans, and winter them on the floor of a peach-house, where they get plenty of light and air; and even with such varieties as Purple King, which is largely grown,

and generally considered very difficult to winter, there is no trouble with mildew. From the time the cuttings are taken, the object is to get them rooted with as little attenuation as possible from heat and a stagnant atmosphere, and afterwards to get a strong hardy growth by using rich soil, and exposing them to sun and air. Early propagation is necessary to this; and to get fine Verbenas, they should either be put in with the closing days of July or the beginning of August.

In the matter of watering, they should never be allowed to become dry, nor yet be kept otherwise than just moist, through the winter months. There is, however, more injury likely to arise from drought to such plants as Verbenas than from a little over-dose of water. The pans being thoroughly filled with strong healthy roots, they are less likely to suffer from water than weaklings that have been struck in September in heat.

By following out this early and cool propagation, the amateur who can only command a hand-glass, or a few flower-pots and some panes of glass, can root and get up a nice healthy stock of Verbenas, that he could winter in the spare-room window, or in a moderately light place, where he can keep them from frost. The more light, however, in winter the better; they could be placed outside, to get fresh air and light in fine weather, in winter and spring.

Spring Propagation.—It has long been a generally recognised fact that spring-struck Verbenas-like a good many other plants, but these in particular—are better than autumn-struck. They grow more healthily and freely, and consequently keep up a longer and finer succession of bloom. Belief in this entails upon the flower-gardener a very considerable amount of propaga

tion at a very busy time. For a good many years I have made it a study how to compress spring propagation into as short a time as possible, and have so far accomplished this object as greatly to reduce the time occupied by such work, and at the same time improve the quality of the plants. In the case of Verbenas, which form a large proportion of spring-struck plants, it was a common practice to put, say, half a dozen plants into 4-inch pots. About the end of January these were shifted into larger pots, and forced in stove heat for cuttings. By this means they can be wintered in good condition, and be made to yield large numbers of cuttings in spring; but not without more labour, time, and care than when managed in autumn and winter as has already been described, and by which a greater number of plants can be kept over with less care and in finer condition.

By that method from 80 to 100 pans, where such quantities are required, can be wintered in a comparatively small space, requiring less attention in watering, and in spring the plants are found in splendid health, without any further shifting or potting. Reference to a garden diary shows that 16,000 cuttings were put in at one clip' in February 1866, after the pans had been a fortnight in a temperature of 65°. It need not be said that in a very short time the necessary number of Verbenas is thus very quickly got up, and the old pans handed over without much exhaustion to cold frames.

Although fine fresh-looking cuttings could be taken from such pans or boxes before being put into heat, it is best to put a growth on them in heat first. They strike more freely after being a fortnight in a moist atmosphere with a temperature of about 65°. If placed near the glass when being thus forced, all the better.

This system of wintering a considerable number in large pans saves much time and labour, and affords a far healthier supply of cuttings. The production of fine healthy cuttings quickly in spring is a very important point in preparing the requisite number of plants; for if cuttings cannot be had in quantities at a time, propagation is necessarily extended over a longer period, and much valuable time is frittered away in nibbling over small numbers at many different times.

To strike cuttings of Verbenas in spring, I am not certain that any appliance for the supply of heat is better than the old hotbed, properly prepared with dung and leaves. There is, however, much less labour attendant on the operation when a more modern propagating house or pit is at command. And where the heat can be regulated by means of hot-water pipes-and all gardeners who have much flower-gardening to do should be supplied with such a house-circumstances will, in most instances, decide how the top and bottom heat necessary for spring propagation is to be supplied; but those who cannot command a smart top and bottom heat need not attempt spring propagation. To do it in cold pits or frames is out of the question. At the same time, any amateur or gardener who can make up a hotbed 6 feet by 8, and about 4 feet deep, and put a hot lining to it when the heat declines, is in a position to propagate many thousands of plants through the course of March and April. Sawdust, cinder ashes, or a little tan, or even light dry earth, when nothing better can be had, to plunge the cutting pots or pans in, and sand to put the cuttings in, are the principal materials wanted. There are few operations within the whole range of gardening calculated to prove a more pleasing

recreation than the propagation and rearing of young plants; and when the gaieties of the garden are the work of one's own hands, this must enhance many degrees the pleasure and satisfaction derivable from such a source.

For the sake of amateurs, I will remark that there are many simple ways of propagation, so far as the source of heat is concerned. Take, for instance, a vinery or forcing-pit, heated by either flue or hot water. Let a box 15 or 16 inches deep be placed on the flue or pipes, fill it half-way up with sandy soil, and follow with an inch or two of finely-sifted sandy and light rich earth in equal proportions, and over all an inch or two of pure sand. Cuttings of Verbenas, and many other plants, inserted in the sand and covered by a few large panes of glass over the mouth of the box, will root freely. A space of 2 or 3 square feet, made use of in this way, may be made to produce as many plants as will fill a good many beds.

Verbenas have a wonderful power of emitting roots when they are in a healthy, growing condition; and in a high temperature, where the atmosphere is moist, they will root without bottom heat, but of course not so freely and surely as with it. A good practice, in the absence of a propagating-pit supplied with bottom heat by hot water, is to propagate in a pit the body of which is filled up with hot leaves, and about a foot of tan on the surface, while the atmosphere is heated by hot-water pipes. It does not matter much, so far as mere striking is concerned, into what sort of vessels the cuttings are put. But looking at the work in the light of time, labour, and attention, as well as economy of space, shallow boxes 21 feet by 11⁄2 feet, and about 4 inches deep, are the best. The crocking and nibbling connected with small pots