sustain is properly, comprehended. "When all the tubes have been raised, and the small ones completed, their ends will be joined . . . The exact length of each of the two tubes will then be one thousand five hundred and thirteen feet, and the weight five thousand tons, -in size far surpassing any piece of wrought ironwork ever before put together, and in weight nearly double that of a hundred and twenty gun ship ready for sea." And these two prodigious 'tubes,' be it remembered, are to be suspended aloft a hundred and two feet above high water. Provision is made for the expansion and contraction of these enormous masses of metal from changes of temperature by fixing the middle of each tube in the Britannia Tower, and leaving the ends free to travel to and fro upon rollers inserted in the land towers. The variation in length of one of the tubes between summer and winter is nearly twelve inches.

It is almost needless to mention, what every one is familiar with from the ample accounts which have been published in the newspapers, that the first of the great tubes was, in June last, safely floated on pontoons to its position at the foot of the towers, whence it was to be raised by means of hydraulic presses. The temporary suspension of the 'lifting,' owing to the breaking of the case of the large hydraulic press, is also well known; as well as the resumption of the proceedings. The press (in itself a wonder) lifts six feet at each stroke, when the masonry is built up under the tube, the end of which lies within a groove in the tower. The tube is thus raised six feet in the morning, and the remainder of the day is occupied in building up to it. The first tube is now raised to its proper place, and ships are probably sailing beneath it.

While the works connected with the bridge were in their greatest activity-that is while the construction of the tubes and of the towers was advancing simultaneously-the Carnarvon shore presented a remarkable scene. Along the bank stretched a strong wooden platform half a mile in length, upon which the tubes were constructed. A large area was covered with long lines of workshops, for the masons and the workers in iron; those belonging to the latter exhibiting, in constant and noisy action, some of the most ponderous and some most complicated machinery. Fifteen hundred workmen were employed while the works were in full operation. The quartering of such an army in the neighbouring towns and villages, if even they had been sufficiently near, would have been impracticable. A temporary village was therefore built, consisting of rows of wooden cottages. Suttlers followed the camp, and shops of course were opened, at which provisions might be purchased; and it is said that all kinds of provisions rose considerably in price in this part of Carnarvon subsequently to the irruption of this army of artizans. A medical man was resident, to afford immediate assistance in case of accidents which happily have been far from numerous considering the magnitude and nature of the undertaking. chaplain was found to minister to the religious wants

A

of the community.* A school was established for the children. Occasionally, at least, the mental culture of the adults was sought to be advanced by an itinerant lecturer: their amusement by the visit of a travelling show. Altogether the village, regarded in itself, and surrounded as it was by the symptoms of a recent clearance, in the midst of a wild mountain tract, and beside a bold rapid river-for such the Strait appears to be-appeared to us to wear some such strange aspect, as one might expect to witness in the incipient town of an American settlement.

"What will the bridge look like when complete ?" was a question commonly asked: the answer, though unsatisfactory, is not difficult. The tube itself is quite unornamented; and it appears exactly like a gigantic rectangular-covered trough made of iron plates, fastened together by rivets in the manner of steam-engine boilers, and supported on piers or towers; which themselves are nearly plain masses of masonry carried to a considerable height above the trough. The land towers are surmounted each by two couchant lions, of colossal size, and "in the Egyptian style;" that is, with big ears, and a close-cropped judge's wig. The central tower was intended, originally, to have been surmounted with a statue of Britannia some sixty feet high; but that is abandoned. In all this it will be seen that there is very little of what can be called 'art' in the design; and, in truth, not much beauty. We have seen and heard it gravely spoken of as "light and graceful in appearance," and its "elegance" even has been eulogised. It is really too bad. To praise too highly the engineering skill displayed on the bridge is perhaps impossible, but in the name of all the Muses let us hear nothing of its beauty. In sad verity, we must confess it to be our conviction that, although the Britannia Bridge is certainly the most wonderful bridge in the world, it is probably the ugliest ever erected.

ANGLESEA.

The Isle of Anglesea need not detain us long. For one who can make a leisurely survey of it, there is a good deal that will be found of interest :-the antiquities, the mines, the scenery of the coast, well deserve investigation. For one who is willing to connect the present with the past, the Sacred Isle of the Druids,the Mona of the Romans,-the residence and the seat of government of the native Princes of Wales,-the battle-field of the Britons with Romans, Picts, and Saxons, - could not be a barren ground. Where, however, only a general glance over the entire district of Cambria can be taken, it is a different matter. Few tourists spend more than an exceedingly brief time in Anglesea; and certainly, if they have come to Wales for the enjoyment of mountain scenery, they do well

*It deserves mention, that the masons have erected a small stone obelisk on the Anglesea coast, "to the memory of those of their companions who have been killed during the progress of the undertaking."

have had a grand effect from a distance, appearing, as it did, to rise from so broad a base. Now Beaumaris

A journey is almost always made from Bangor to Beaumaris. The sail thither along the Strait is a delightful one. The Carnarvon coast, with Penmaen Mawr, and the lofty mountains of Snowdonia-though the giant himself is hardly seen, if seen at all-form a grateful addition to the delight which the sail along a bold river or arm of the sea is sure in itself to excite. | The enjoyment derivable from the sail will be much increased, if it be continued to Great Orme's Head, and around the rough wild rock. Priestholme, or Puffin's Island-the little island situated at the eastern extremity of Anglesea, should also, if possible, be thus visited. It abounds, during the summer, with the bird from which it has received its local name, and with vast numbers of other aquatic birds, which give to its bluff black cliffs a singularly wild appearance. But the distance between Bangor and Beaumaris should also be gone over by land. The road lies along the top of a high bank, from which there is a noble prospect across the Strait; and the mountains beyond, from Penmaen and Llewellyn to Snowdon, are seen to great advantage. Indeed it may be said, generally, that the finest views in Anglesea are views from it.

Beaumaris is a fashionable and thriving wateringplace, with an excellent pier, terraces of large and handsome houses, hotels of more than common size and style, good shops, and all the appliances of a wellfrequented bathing-town. The streets, too, are more regular, and neater and better kept, than those in most Welsh towns. The town itself is pleasantly situated in the hollow of Beaumaris Bay; and there are beautiful rides and walks in the vicinity. The steamer which plies between the Menai Bridge and Liverpool calls at Beaumaris, so that a constant and easy intercourse is kept up with the great northern port; from which a large proportion of its summer residents come. The town appears to owe its origin to the Castle, which was erected by Edward I., in 1295. From its dilapidated condition, and the lowness of the site-it having been built on a marsh, partly, no doubt, for the convenience of surrounding it with a moat-Beaumaris Castle by no means presents so imposing an appearance as either Carnarvon or Conway Castle. It is of considerable size: when it was in a perfect state it consisted of an outer ballium, or envelope, surrounded by a moat, and flanked with ten circular bastion-towers, of which those at the angles are the largest; and it had on the east side an advanced work, called the 'Gunner's Walk.' Within this fortified enclosure was the body of the castle, which was nearly square, with a round tower at each angle, and another in the centre of each face. This inner castle rose much above the ballium, and must, before the building was dismantled,

grand entrance, which is still in tolerable preservation, is between two massive round towers; and forms perhaps the most "picturesque bit" remaining of the entire building. But the grandest portion is the Great Hall-a spacious apartment, 70 feet long by 23 feet wide. The front, which is turned towards the inner area of the castle, has five handsome windows; and the hall must once have been a splendid structure. The most curious remaining portion of the castle is the chapel; and it is also the most perfect. It is very small in size, with a handsome groined roof, supported by attached pillars: at the eastern end are three lancetwindows, so narrow and oilet-like, as to give to the gloomy little edifice quite a military character. Around the entire area are carried narrow galleries, cut out, as it were, from the walls of the ballium.

Beaumaris Castle has not a very important history. In the great civil war, it was taken, after a short siege, by Colonel Mytton, the Parliamentary general, and was not long after dismantled. The castle is the property of the crown; and some use is found for a part of it: opposite the Great Hall is a tennis-court, for the recreation of the lord of Baron Hill. This abomination has been permitted for many years, in spite of the continued remonstrances of the books; and it is likely to be continued much longer: for when we were there, two or three months back, it was being carefully repaired and strengthened. One might have hoped that a little more respect would be shown in the present day for the grand old pile.

On the eminence behind Beaumaris is Baron Hill, the seat of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley: the mansion is of no mark; but it commands an almost unrivalled view over the Strait and the Snowdon mountain chain beyond. It has also a noble sea-view.

Plas Newydd is another mansion, which is frequently visited from Bangor. It lies in the opposite direction to Beaumaris, being situated a mile or so beyond the foot of Britannia Bridge. The chief objects of interest here are two cromlechs, which stand just behind the house. The top stone of the larger one is a block, 12 feet long, 10 feet broad, and 4 feet thick: it was supported by seven upright stones; but two of them have fallen. The smaller cromlech adjoins the larger. Of these strange objects there still remain twenty-eight in Anglesea: there were once many more. five hundred yards from the cromlechs, at Plas Newydd, is a carnedd, or tumulus, covered with loose irregular stones: it was opened in the last century; but "being found to contain human bones, the workmen were ordered to desist." In the present day, the greatest inducement to open it would be the hope of finding human bones. Of this kind of tumulus there are a great many in North Wales; and generally, we believe, they are found on the heights.

Four or

On an eminence just above the Britannia Bridge stands the Anglesea Column, a pillar erected in com

Holyhead is a small island, divided by a narrow strait from the western extremity of Anglesea. It is generally believed that Anglesea once formed a portion of the mainland; and Holyhead was doubtless in the same way united with Anglesea and as the larger island, though cut off by Nature from the parent land, has been again united with it by the hand of man, so has Holyhead been joined to Anglesea; being connected with it by the embankments and bridges of the great Irish coach-road and of the Chester and Holyhead Railway.

The chief interest attaching to Holyhead arises from its being the station for the Dublin mail packets. For the use chiefly of the packets, there have been constructed a harbour-pier and graving-dock, with all suitable appliances, at a cost of upwards of £140,000. They were designed by the late Mr. Rennie. The pier is nearly a thousand feet in length; at the extremity of it is a lighthouse; at the commencement is an arch of Mona marble,' erected to commemorate the visit of George IV. in 1821. The harbour, though sufficient for the purpose of a packet-station, and though it has been of much service to shipping, is far from answering the end of a harbour of refuge. One more sheltered and of greater area was needed for this dangerous coast, into which it would be comparatively easy for a ship of the largest size to run in any weather, and to ride at anchor in any state of the tide. A site adapted for such a harbour was found somewhat to the westward of the present one; and the construction of it was commenced some time back. But the progress But the progress of the works has been very irregular. The town of Holyhead is a straggling collection of streets, rows, and single houses. It has not much trade, and ordinarily has little to interest the stranger. But one who is there on a Saturday morning may find some amusement in strolling through the principal It is the market-day, and Holyhead is the market-town which supplies all this part of Anglesea. Every variety of article for domestic use is displayed on the stalls, as well as all the ordinary articles of food; and stalls with gilt gingerbread and toys are there also. Towards noon, the open space where the market-cross stands begins to be thronged with farmers and farmers' wives and daughters, and the wives and daughters of the peasantry, who bring for sale their baskets of butter and eggs, and so forth, or come to purchase their stores for the ensuing week. Then the market-place presents a curious sight. On the steps of the cross are seated a dozen very old and (according to Price's reading of the phrase) very picturesque women, dressed in the quaintest of Welsh costumes, with their several stores at their feet. Of the fair ones who crowd the market-place, many are very young,

street.

all talk Welsh-and Welsh never sounds so well as from feminine lips-but do not by any means all dress Welsh; and the mingling of costume increases the liveliness of the scene. It is, like almost every Welsh market, worth seeing; and, to our fancy, Holyhead appears quite another and more likeable place on Saturday than any other day.

It will not be expected that a little out-of-the-way town like Holyhead will have any buildings of much importance. The church, however, is not uninteresting. It is of the perpendicular style, and has been a good deal enriched with carvings on the exterior; but these being executed in soft stone, and exposed to the sea, are almost mouldered away; under the porch, however, where sheltered from the weather, they are much more perfect. They are rude, but curious; and the church altogether will repay the time spent in its examination.

The same, indeed, may be said of the whole island of Holyhead. There are yet remaining in it a cromlech, and some other vestiges of British antiquities; Roman remains have at different times been found here; and there are fragments still existing of a 'capel' or two of mediæval date; the rocky shores will furnish employment for the naturalist: while, as far as we have seen, the most striking scenery of Anglesea may be found in this its satellite. Holyhead Mountain, a bare, craggy hill, two or three miles from the town, affords some glorious sea views. Far and wide in every direction stretches away the bright blue ocean; mingling near at hand with the broken coast of Anglesea, and bounded by the mountains of Snowdonia; while in the dim distance may be discerned Ireland, and sometimes even Scotland. We saw from it, on a clear morning of June, the Wicklow Mountains quite distinctly. From the mountain you may descend to the shore, or to the South Stack Lighthouse, which stands on a detached fragment of rock, or islet, and is reached by a suspension-bridge that has been thrown across the dark narrow chasm. When the light-house was first erected, the only means of access to it from the land was by a basket and rope; afterwards a rope-bridge was made; but this, though less hazardous than the former rude contrivance, was found to be unsafe, and about twenty years ago the present neat chain-bridge was constructed. As it is, the approach is not very tempting; you have to descend nearly four hundred steps before reaching the foot of the bridge: it is said that this step-road is threequarters of a mile long; but the wearisomeness of the way is relieved by the fine rock scenery that opens to you in winding down it. A strange wild spot is this South Stack. The sea beats heavily against it, and against the cliffs which tower up behind it grim, black, and all over deeply riven. On every ledge, and in every rent, are numerous auks and gulls and divers, and other aquatic birds; while the entire surface of the Stack Rock is literally whitened with them. The black rocks rise grandly from the sea, which, incessantly

beating against them, has hollowed out their bases into deep caverns, and appears to be eating away the whole coast. Hardly elsewhere will a more impressive or romantic piece of rocky coast scenery be found, than this deeply-indented and shattered promontory, with its lonely lighthouse, fairy-like bridge, and the countless multitudes of sea-fowl which are mocking the eye with their rapid and ceaseless evolutions, and mingling their plaintive wild cry with the regular sullen beat of the waves upon the rocky cliffs.

The entire coast of Anglesea is studded with islets. The most important, after Holyhead, are those to the north-east, called the Skerries. Upon the largest of these there is a lighthouse, which, with that of the South Stack, guides the packets to Holyhead Harbour, and warns the mariner of the dangers of the coast. But, notwithstanding the light, the Skerries are often fatal to the seaman.

To one desirous of witnessing mining operations, the neighbourhood of Amlwch may be attractive. The town of Amlwch is situated on the north-eastern coast: it is of modern growth, having been almost entirely built since the opening of the mines in 1768. The only noticeable thing about it is the harbour, which was cut entirely out of the solid rock: it is of ample size, and capable of containing vessels of 200 tons burden. Parys Mountain, in which are the famous copper-mines, is situated about two miles south of the town. The Parys mine was opened, as was said, in 1768; and with the Mona mine, which was opened two or three years later, in the same mountain, at one time produced annually from 60,000 to 80,000 tons of copper ore a quantity greater than was at any time obtained elsewhere, and equal, it is believed, to the amount raised from all the Cornish mines at the same period. But this extraordinary productiveness has

long ceased, and for some years the Parys Mountain has yielded but a small amount of mineral wealth.

A pedestrian, who had sufficient time, might find it a not uninteresting, though somewhat rough walk, to proceed from Holyhead by the west coast of Anglesea to the Carnarvon ferry. The coast along this part of the great Carnarvon Bay is indented with numerous lesser bays, some of which, with the distant Carnarvon mountains, are singularly beautiful. The engraving (Cut, No. 11) will serve to impart a notion of the character of the scenery of these lesser bays. The small lonely farm-houses and scattered cottages are rude and humble, but frequently picturesque-though the common habit of lime-washing the exterior (often roofs and all) is somewhat annoying to an artistic eye.

Aberffraw, three or four miles from Carnarvon, is the only place on the way that calls for particular notice and that only for what it was. In the days of Welsh independence, it was there that the princes of Wales had their palace and held their court. Of course, upon the conquest of Wales by the first Edward, its importance passed away, and now nothing remains but the memory of its ancient glory. This present year, however, it received the greatest dignity which the Welsh notables could confer, it having been selected as the theatre for holding the Eisteddvod of 1849, which was celebrated there with all the honours.

CARNARVON.

The site of the old town of Carnarvon, a sort of peninsula just by the confluence of the river Seiont and the Cadnant brook with the Menai Strait, might seem to have been chosen as well for its commercial as

its military convenience. Yet the original town, the Segontium of the Romans, the Caer Segort of the