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pictures of Welsh scenery which find their way to the exhibitions, entitled, 'A Welsh Stream,' 'A Quiet Spot,' 'Scene in Wales,' and such-like titles, which English landscape-painters delight in, have been painted from sketches made here, and in many instances have been painted here. The mountains around are not so grand, nor so fine in form, as those we have left, but they are pleasing and characteristic. Several places within a few miles are worth visiting. Dinas Mowddwy, a couple of miles on the Dolgelley road, is a decayed borough-town of mud cottages, not unpicturesque in itself, and seated in a very picturesque spot. There is capital river-scenery here too. If the Afon Dyfi be ascended for a few miles farther, it will guide the tourist to some remarkable scenery. Such is that of the rocks and craggy heights, and deep hollows, at Llan-y-Mowddwy, and forwards towards the Arran Mowddwy Mountain. Down the Afon Dyfi the tourist might extend his walk to the poor but picturesque village of Cemmaes-where, by the way, is a curious old farm-house; and close by it a noticeable half-timber edifice. The waterfalls about Mallwyd we need not direct attention to, because any one who stays there is

sure to stroll over to them.

We hoped to have been able to devote a brief space to some remarks on the people of Wales, but our limits are so nearly exhausted, that we can only just touch one point of the subject. It is impossible for the most heedless person to visit Wales without being struck by the appearance and character of the inhabitants. The dress and language are both so different from those of the peasantry of England-and if any attention be given to their manners, they will be found so different toothat it is impossible to avoid taking some note of the Welsh people. The language is what first and chiefly excites notice. In the guide-books it is commonly said that the English tourist will experience little or no inconvenience from his ignorance of the Welsh tongue. And if he confine himself to the main roads, and address himself almost wholly to inn-keepers and waiters, this is quite true; and many tourists, from doing so, rather hastily conclude that English is pretty generally understood. But let him depart ever so little from the beaten track, and he will at once discover that this is a delusion: only a small proportion of either old or young will he find able to answer him if he address them. The capability of the children to speak English is the real test of the progress of the language. It will be well to notice what a thoroughly well-informed native of the principality, who has devoted considerable attention to the subject, says. In his recent elaborate work, entitled Wales, the Language, Social Condition, &c., of the People,' Sir Thomas Phillips observes :

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porated with and made part of the realm of England; and although for so long a period English laws have been enforced, and the use of the Welsh language discouraged, yet, when the question is now asked, what progress has been made in introducing the English language? the answer may be given from Part II. of the Reports of the Education Commissioners,' page 68. In Cardiganshire, 3000 people out of 68,766 speak English. The result may be yet more strikingly shown by saying that double the number of persons now speak Welsh who spoke in that language in the reign of Elizabeth."

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This is a great fact: and to our thinking a very sad one. No people can ever be thoroughly one in interest and feeling while they are separated by a difference of language: and no man of thoughtful habit will, we imagine, venture to say that it is not in every way desirable that the people of Great Britain shall be so united. At what a disadvantage every Welshman is placed who can only speak his own tongue is at once apparent whenever any one attempts to raise himself above the condition of his birth; and assuredly, Welshmen do not desire to be for ever confined to their native homes and original condition. In the Welsh language there is no living literature. The early Welsh writings did probably, as has been said by continental as well as British authors, exert a great influence on the literature of Europe. But those works are now only preserved for the antiquary. Antique romances can have no active interest with the people of the nineteenth century. There are some translations into Welsh, but they are of course naught. There are numerous living writers in the language, but their productions are almost wholly religious or political-when not antiquarian. And the religious and political writings are sectarian and partisan. There is no living standard literature: and what it is to be without that, an Englishman can imagine when he reflects on what his language would be worth if Shakspere and all succeeding writers of eminence in every class of letters were erased from the national memory, and their deep soberizing influence lost from the national mind. Is it no misfortune that a large portion of our fellow-countrymen should be, by difference of tongue, prevented from having access to those treasures of knowledge and wisdom? And a similar remark applies to every kind of knowledge as well as literature, What information in science, or the arts, in agriculture, or indeed in anything, can be obtained in Welsh ?—and what cannot be obtained in English? Unless he learns English the Welshman cannot elevate himself-nay, cannot maintain himself on a level with Englishmen of the same grade in society—it is impossible he should do so. He may, indeed, if he have sufficient energy, learn the language when he has come to perceive the need of it; but what a monstrous thing it is that an English subject, living in this island, should have to acquire in after-life the English language as he would a foreign one, and consequently only half acquire it at last. Those who have influence in Wales should consider these things.

But we must hasten on. We have left ourselves no time to conduct the tourist through Montgomeryshire; indeed we fancy he will find it the best way to make Mallwyd his last resting-place, and from thence proceed direct by coach to Shrewsbury. This he can very well do, for the mail from Aberystwith and Machynlleth passes through Mallwyd daily, and during the summer there is a tourist's coach' besides. The country between Mallwyd and Shrewsbury is very beautiful, but it is of a tamer kind of beauty than that which we have lately been conversant with, and consequently does not do to loiter over. Many of the villages look very tempting as you whisk through them; many a valley looks right pleasant as you gaze down it from some gentle eminence. But on the whole there will be little cause to regret that the ramble did

not include this district. The only town which is passed through on the way is Welshpool-a rather large and evidently flourishing place, with wide clean. streets, and a completely English aspect: the Severn is navigable as high as Welshpool. Near this town is Powis Castle-a pile which has a striking appearance at a distance, much more so than close at hand. It

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stands in a noble park, in the midst of a fine country, and commands very extensive prospects. reminded by the title of this mansion, that this part of Wales was anciently called Powis, and afterwards West Wales, in contradistinction to North and South Wales. The old town of Montgomery lies too much out of the ordinary route of tourists; and though an interesting little place in many respects, and though seated in a beautiful locality, it has hardly attractions sufficient to induce any one to diverge so far from the main road at the end of a long journey.

SHREWSBURY.

A pleasanter old town than Shrewsbury could hardly be desired to stay at for a few days. We have alluded slightly on our former visit to its quaint old streets, lined with the quaintest old houses—one of which may be seen in our engraving of the Market Place, at page 96. We have now a few words to say of the neigh

bourhood and its historical associations.

On approaching Shrewsbury in the twilight the landscape presents a varied and interesting appearance. High and black-looking hills rise here and there abruptly from the plain, backed by the Welsh mountains, which are indistinctly seen in the distance in gray cloud-like tints. We may here mention that the Wrekin, near Wellington, and which rises 1320 feet above the sea, is the Shropshireman's toast. It is nearly dark when the railway train shoots us close below the walls of the Castle, a stronghold of old date, but much disfigured by the introduction of modern windows and other matters which have been used to convert it into a residence of the present day.

The town stands chiefly on a peninsula formed by the Severn. It was formerly wholly contained within this peninsula, but has gradually extended beyond the

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Severn on the east and west side, forming the suburbs of Abbey-Foregate and Coleham on the east, and of Frankwell on the west; and on the north extending beyond the isthmus or neck occupied by the castle, forming the suburb of Castle-Foregate. are irregularly laid out, and for the most part inconveniently narrow, though several improvements have been made under an Act of Parliament obtained in 1821 the streets are indifferently paved, and lighted. with gas; water is provided by a water-company, at an average charge of twenty shillings per annum for each house the water is brought from a spring two miles distant. The only part of the ancient walls which remains is a ruinous wall erected by Cromwell on the north-west side of the town, between the isthmus and the Welsh bridge; and a tower, and (unless lately demolished) part of the wall on the south side. There are some remains of the castle, especially of the keep, which has been modernized, of the walls of the inner court, the great arch of the inner gate, a lofty mound on the bank of the river, and a fort called Roushill, built by Cromwell. The houses in the town are of handsome, being mingled with others of greater antiquity. very varied character; modern buildings, many of them There are two bridges over the Severn; the English bridge (built A.D. 1774), a handsome freestone structure of seven semicircular arches, connects the Abbey-Foregate with the town; and the Welsh bridge, a neat plain structure of five arches, connects Frankwell with it. There is another bridge at Coleham over the Meol brook, which joins the Severn above the English bridge.

There are some remains of the Benedictine abbey founded by Roger de Montgomery (A.D. 1083), and which had at the Dissolution a revenue of £615 48. 3 d.

gross, or £532 48. 10d. clear. It occupied a low site of about ten acres, in the suburb of Abbey-Foregate. Part of the embattled wall which inclosed the precinct remains: it is nearly intire on the north and east sides. The inclosure is occupied by a modern mansion with its garden and fish-pond; and in the garden is a beautiful stone pulpit of decorated character, covered with a profusion of ivy. The abbey church, a cruciform structure, was in great part demolished at the Dissolution; but the nave, western tower, and north porch remain, though in a very dilapidated condition, and constitute the parish church of Holy Cross parish, The architecture was originally Norman; but it has undergone material alterations, especially by the insertion of a large perpendicular window in the face of the western tower, Beneath this window is a Norman doorway, the deep recess of which is adorned with various mouldings. St. Alkmond's church has been rebuilt in modern times, with the exception of the tower and spire (184 feet high), which belonged to the more ancient structure. St. Chad's has also been rebuilt; it is a Grecian structure, of circular form, with a tower 150 feet high. A small part of the old church of St. Chad (part of the south aisle of the chancel) now remains, and

is used as a school; it is a curious structure, and contains Norman, early English, and decorated remains. St. Julian's was rebuilt about the middle of the last century; but the tower, which is of Norman architecture, belonged to the old church. St. Mary's is an ancient, large, and fine cross church; the lower part of the tower and the south porch are of good Norman architecture; the rest of the church is principally early English, with some windows (especially those of the clerestory, which are all perpendicular) of later date; there is a very good perpendicular font. There is an ancient chapel of St. Giles in the Abbey-Foregate, originally attached to the hospital of the Abbey; it has been repaired within these few years. There are two modern chapels-of-ease, one to St. Mary's in the CastleForegate, and one to St. Chad's, in Frank well; and there are several dissenting places of worship.

Among other buildings may be mentioned the town and shire hall, a spacious and handsome stone building, containing two courts for the assizes, a room for county and corporation meetings, a grand-jury room with some interesting portraits, and other offices; the town and county gaol and house of correction; the military depot, a handsome brick building near the AbbeyForegate; the house of industry in Meol-Brace parish; the infirmary; the column in honour of Lord Hill, at the entrance of the town from London; the public subscription library, the theatre, the assembly-rooms. On the south-west side of the town is "the quarry," a handsome public walk planted with lime-trees, comprising about twenty acres, and extending along the bank of the Severn.

The borough of Shrewsbury, before the alterations made by the Boundary and Municipal Reform Acts, comprised the six parishes of St. Alkmond, St. Chad, Holy Cross with St. Giles, St. Julian, St. Mary (the greater part of it), and Meol-Brace; and had an area of 14,680 acres. There were, in 1831, 4057 houses, inhabited by 4509 families, 177 houses uninhabited, and 46 houses building; with a population of 21,297. The liberties of the borough had, in addition, 435 houses inhabited by 448 families, 7 houses uninhabited, and 2 houses building. The trade of the town is considerable, especially in Welsh cloths and flannel from the county of Denbigh, Montgomery, and Merioneth; thread, linenyarn, and canvas are manufactured, and there are ironworks at Coleham. The town has long been famous for brawn and "Shrewsbury cakes." There are markets held on Wednesday and Saturday, the latter for grain; there are market-houses for the corn and general markets. The Severn is navigable for boats of thirty or forty tons, and there is a canal to Wombridge, which opens a communication with the Staffordshire collieries.

The churches, with their rare examples of painted glass, and curious tombs, as well as many other matters, which cannot fail to attract attention, we must leave, and in the morning, with the reader's permission, visit Shrewsbury Battle-field.

The distance from the town to the Battle-field is about three miles, and few walks in a summer morning can be more pleasant. Here and there through luxuriant foliage we catch glimpses of the clear Severn, gliding smoothly along; the hedges are covered with honeysuckle and roses, and every step shows a high state of cultivation of land placed most favourably by nature. No one can pass through Shropshire without being struck by the intelligence and civility of the inhabitants, and the honest pride they feel in their native place. The great age of many, and the beauty and cheerful appearance of the children, show the healthy nature of the district.

What a contrast is here between the fair-haired, redcheeked children of the poor, and the pale, haggard little creatures who swarm in the courts and alleys of our large towns! The income of the Shropshire labourer is often less than that which in towns is found so insufficient; but, then, in the pleasant country we have not the brilliant gin-palaces at every corner, tempting from the pocket the pence which ought to go to the support of families. And how different for children here to escape from home into the green fields and pure air, instead of the narrow and undrained courts,-to have before their eyes and ears beautiful plants and singing birds, instead of dilapidation and the language of swearing and abuse. These thoughts, however, we must not further speculate upon, nor at present mention the curious traditions and accounts of old and peculiar customs which we here and there gather up; for Shropshire still preserves many relics of the old English times.

About half way between Shrewsbury and Battlefield, on the right hand of the famous old oak, popularly called Owen Glendower's tree, may be seen a tower, placed, as Shakspere calls it, on the top of "yon bosky hill." From one of the cliffs, which from here are distinctly visible, Douglas fell, and was captured in endeavouring to escape after the death of Percy, and the loss of the battle. The beautiful ruins of Haughmond Abbey may also be partly seen, about half way up the hill.

It was founded in 1100 by William Fitz-Alan, who conferred on it the land on which it stood, with all appurtenances. Leland says there was a hermitage and a chapel on this spot before the abbey was built. The establishment consisted of canons of St. Augustine, and all grants made to them are confirmed by charter of the 13th Edw. II. Henry II., at the request of the abbot, granted to William Fitz-Alan and his heirs the keeping of the abbey and its possessions in times of vacation occasioned by the death of any abbot, to the exclusion of the king and his successors. Pope Alexander, in 1772, granted many valuable privileges to the abbots and monks of this monastery, which were confirmed by subsequent possessors of the see. The yearly revenues at the Dissolution amounted, according to Dugdale, to £259 13s. 74d. The extent of the whole foundation is not distinctly traceable, but the chapter-house is

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entire. It is oblong, the upper end forming two sides of an hexagon. The roof is of oak, on which rested another story. A beautiful Norman arch in the south door of the nave is all that remains of the abbey church. South of the chapter-house are remains of the refect ory halls, &c.

On the left hand, and towards Shrewsbury, the country is very level; and it is easy, by referring to a map in Owen and Blakeway's "History of Shrewsbury," to trace the various evolutions of the contending armies who here so fearfully strove together.

A small, old-fashioned-looking hostelry is situated at the corner of the lane leading from the turnpike to Battle-field. The aged hostess only brews twice a-year (October and March), and honestly makes use only of the genuine ingredients. This old lady knew that a great battle had been long since fought here-no more. The only other house near is occupied by a miller, who also farms part of the neighbourhood, and who will give the visitor admission to the church of Battle-field, which we now approach.

May not Shakspere have sat near this identical spot, and fashioned those rare fancies of Sir John Falstaff, the noble prince, and other actors in the tragic event? Shakspere's account of the battle could scarcely have been given except by a knowledge of the locality. The distant spires of the Shrewsbury churches are visible in the distance. We listened anxiously for the striking of the clock; but, owing perhaps to the direction of the wind, or some other cause, we had not the satisfaction of hearing it. Many discussions have taken place as to whether or not Shrewsbury clock existed in the time

of Henry IV. This dispute we will leave the parties to settle amongst themselves, and proceed to the church; the space around which for a considerable distance is uncultivated, owing to the broken nature of the ground, partly caused by the entrenchments thrown up at the battle, and by the graves of the slain. The church was built soon afterwards, for the purpose of prayer for those who fell in the battle, and, as may be seen by the engraving, is partly in ruins. This early decay is said to have been caused by the sinking of the foundation, owing to the great number of dead bodies buried beneath. The church is of considerable extent, and is a fine specimen of the architecture of the period. In a niche at the west end is an effigy of Henry IV., which is valuable as an example of the costume of that reign. The chancel is still used for religious service, but sadly disfigured by ugly pews, and other matters in bad taste.

Every one who visits this church must regret its ruined condition. At present a small sum would effect its restoration, and cause it for years to be a valued historical relic of English history. The parish, we are told, contains so few dwellings, that no funds for such a laudable purpose can be obtained by church rates. Surely the Shropshire gentlemen, who have on so many occasions shown a truly English spirit, will not, for the sake of a few hundred pounds, allow the old church of Battle-field to become a thing of the past. An appeal from the local press cannot but have the desired effect of saving from destruction this interesting relic of the past.

The city of Chester, to which we have now retraced our steps, is fifteen miles from Birkenhead, the next

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"Like some tall palm, The mystic fabric rose,"

stage in our tour. After leaving Chester, there is no inclined to say with Bishop Heber, in his prize prem place of importance before arriving at that place, ex- of Palestine, when describing Solomon's templecepting Horton Hall, the seat lately of Sir William Stanley, but now of the eminent banker, Mr. Naylor. We now come to Birkenhead; and if we had visited this rising town some time previously, we should be

so rapid and so silent has been the growth of this great town.

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