or would gladly do so, were a wilderness at hand. But if it were possible to look at these things merely as works of art, they would be admirable for the ingenuity which has been expended upon them. They are not, either, merely rude rocks piled together: rockingstones, and other curious things, are here as large as the originals. But we have stayed long enough here. We should be hardly forgiven, however, if we did not, before we left this part of the grounds, mention that there is in one of the enclosures a fine healthy oak, which was planted by her Majesty when Princess Victoria, and by it a chestnut that was planted at the same time by the Duchess of Kent: the Queen's tree has far outgrown that of her august parent. There is also a tree of Prince Albert's planting; and there are others planted by the Emperor of Russia, his brother, the Arch-duke, and, we believe, other seignors and mighty potentates.

The private gardens are about half a mile distant: they are on a princely scale. The collection of orchidaceous plants is among the finest in the kingdom. The various hot-houses and green-houses are abundant and amply stored-but gardens and park, with all their contents, we must commend to the visitor's own researches. We have already made too long a tarriance.

As we came to Chatsworth we spoke of the contrast it presented to Haddon: another contrast may suggest itself to the mind of the visitor, as it did to that of our great philosophic poet. Wordsworth's fine sonnet may appropriately conclude this hurried and imperfect notice of the Palace of the Peak:

"Chatsworth! thy stately mansion, and the pride Of thy domain, strange contrast do present To house and home in many a craggy rent Of the wild Peak; where new-born waters glide Through fields whose thrifty occupants abide As in a dear and chosen banishment, With every semblance of entire content; So kind is simple Nature, fairly tried! Yet He whose heart in childhood gave his troth To pastoral dales, thin set with modest farms, May learn, if judgment strengthen with his growth, That, not for Fancy only, pomp hath charms; And, strenuous to protect from lawless harms The extremes of favoured life, may honour both." If Chatsworth was approached from Rowsley, it must be quitted by way of Edensor. This village should be visited. The principal entrance to the park is here; and the visitor had formerly to pass through a mean and dirty village to reach it. To remedy this the duke

pulled down the old cottages, and built their occupants better and more comfortable ones at a little distance from the road. Along the road he erected a number of a rather superior class of houses,-not after a pattern and in a row, but of various shapes, and in the old English (or Elizabethan), Swiss, and Italian styles. The little village is quite unique. Edensor is a worthy pendant to Chatsworth: one farm-house is a very model.'

It is hardly possible to overrate the benefit which during the last twenty years the Duke of Devonshire has, by his improvements, conferred on this part of the county. Not only has he provided constant employment for a very great number of people, and called into existence a large body of skilful artizans and labourers of various kinds, but his example has extended far around. It is not too much to say, that while he has uniformly sought to elevate the character and increase the comforts of the peasantry on his own estates, he has at the same time raised the taste and improved the physical condition of the whole locality.

The road from Edensor to Bakewell is one of uncommon beauty. Over the hills there are wide and rich prospects; in the hollows are delicious shady green lanes. Edensor Church, we ought perhaps to have mentioned, is old, and not without architectural merit: in it, tor, are some noticeable monuments to some of the lords of Chatsworth, and other members of the Cavendish family. And as we have elsewhere pointed out to the rambler where he may find a temporary home, it is only proper to mention here that among the houses erected by the duke at Edensor is a very pretty inn: we have no doubt that Mr. Adam is quite correct in saying that a party might spend a day or two at Edensor inn with great advantage." There is plenty to be seen in the neighbourhood.

66

STANTON MOOR.

We must have another day's ramble from Rowsley: its attractions are of an entirely different kind to those of the walk last taken. Then we saw a realization of the highest state of refinement and luxury: now we are to look at the relics of an age, and a condition of society long anterior to civilization. The early British antiquities are scattered far and wide over our land. In the loneliest and what must have been the most sterile spots, on bleak moors, or bare downs ;"Remote from human dwellings, and the stir Of human life-and open to the breath And to the eye of Heaven;"

from Wiltshire and Cornwall even to Cumberland, we see extensive Druidic remains, as they are generally called, yet existing; sometimes singly and far apart, elsewhere gathered in considerable numbers, and of

* There is, by the way, in one of the rooms at Chatsworth, an actual model, on a considerable scale and beautifully executed, of a Russian farm-house and buildings; it was sent as a present to the duke by a Russian prince, who fancied it greatly resembled this farm at Edensor. The visitor will find it worth a pretty close inspection.

divers kinds, within the boundary of some comparatively narrow district. North Derbyshire is very rich in these remains, and a walk to Stanton Moor will enable us to examine conveniently a few of the various classes. From Rowsley there is a way over Peak Tor and along the Stanton ridge, by which Stanton Moor may be reached within a distance of three miles. It is a rough road, and there is a long hill to be ascended, but the summit when gained commands magnificent views, both over the valley of the Derwent and in the opposite direction. Once this moorland tract must have been a wide desolate waste: now it is in good part inclosed and cultivated, or covered with plantations. Over the whole Stanton Moor, on Harthill, which is separated from it by a narrow valley, and over the moorland tract extending thence westward to the Dove, there yet remain a vast number of single stones, circles, and barrows, with rocking-stones, rock-basins, and other of those various objects which have been so long popularly associated with Druidic worship. If the stranger wishes to visit the chief of them, and be at all pressed for time, he will do well to procure the service of a guide, as they are often difficult to find-and sometimes, as far as our experience goes, only to be reached by a little infringement of the laws of trespass.

We shall notice a few of these objects. It is not our intention to explain them,—that we are unable to do; nor to theorize respecting their several purposes,a more searching investigation and a wider induction must be made before that can be done with any safety. All these rude monuments appear to be common (with a difference) alike in eastern climes, and throughout the north of Europe. There is good reason to expect, from the diligence with which ethnological studies are being pursued by the learned of different countries, that some satisfactory elucidation of a subject in which so many countries are interested, will be arrived at; meanwhile it is enough to say, that the theories of our own elder antiquaries are now generally regarded as unsatisfactory.

Perhaps the most interesting of the monuments about these parts are the circles of stones. On Stanton Moor there is one known as the Nine Ladies; it consists of nine rude upright stones arranged in a circle, of about eleven yards in circumference. The spot on which this circle stands is inclosed, and the relic itself is imperfect. On Harthill Moor, the summit of the opposite hill, about a mile and a half south-west of this spot, is another of these circles. It stands in a field called Nine Stone Close, but the circle, which is thirteen yards in circumference, consists of only seven stones of the rudest description, and only three of them are now standing. A circle of very much more importance-indeed the most perfect and important of the British remains in this part of the country-may be mentioned here for the sake of connection, though it is some four miles west of the spot we are now at. This is Arbor Low (or, as it is commonly called, and sometimes written, Arbelow). It is situated on Middleton Moor, about nine miles from Buxton; the site commands a great

extent of country, being the most elevated part of the moor. The monument is yet tolerably complete. It consists of a circle of about thirty shapeless flat blocks of stone, some of which are broken, but which appear to have been all from six to eight feet long, and three or four broad. The stones are now all prone; they point towards the centre of the circle, but lie irregularly: they were probably originally upright. Near the centre of the circle are two larger stones. The platform on which they are ranged is encompassed by a fosse, or ditch, about six yards wide, and fifty in diameter. Outside the ditch is a vallum, which appears to have been formed by the earth thrown up from the ditch. The circumference of the top of this mound is about 270 yards. The vallum is broken through in places, but the monument seems to be carefully preserved. Nigh it are some tumuli, one of which is of large size. Arbor Low has neither the magnitude nor the grandeur of Stonehenge; yet assuredly, in its way, nothing can be more impressive, or appeal more powerfully to the imagination than this rude and undecipherable monument of a shadowy age!

That these circles were in some way connected with the sacred rites (probably, too, as northern antiquaries suggest, with legislation, for they were commonly united) there appears to be little doubt. For a religious purpose it is generally admitted were those single rude blocks of stone raised, of which two or three are still standing on Stanton Moor and in its vicinity, and which were set up by various people over a large portion of the earth from the time of the Jewish patriarchs. Whether the rocking-stones, or logans, as they are called in Devonshire and Cornwall, and the rock-basins, which are generally found in the same neighbourhood, were employed by the priests, has been questioned. Many writers imagine that they are wholly natural, being produced by the disintegration of the rocks. That the rockbasins, which are merely hollows scooped out of the surface of the rock, have been formed by the action of water is quite probable. But any one who has carefully examined the rocking-stones in different parts of the kingdom, will find it hard to believe that they have all fallen naturally into the positions they occupy. That they should almost invariably occur in the neighbourhood of those unquestionable relics of the ancient worship is a matter not to be overlooked. Even if they were formed naturally (as it is very likely that in many cases they were), it is at least probable that the priests may have availed themselves of their peculiar property; and if so, have learnt to construct them where they did not already exist.

The most remarkable rocking-stones in Derbyshire are those on Stanton Moor, which are known as the Routor Rocks: so called from the provincial word roo, to rock. There are several of them: the largest is a huge shapeless block, and weighing some fifty tons. Originally it was so nicely poised as to be set in motion with the greatest ease. A party of young men assembled for the purpose on Whit-Sunday, 1799, and with great difficulty succeeded in throwing it off its balance. it

has been since restored to its position, but to obtain the exact balance was found impossible: it now requires the whole strength of a man to move it. Some others, however, close by, can be made to oscillate by the application of a single finger-or the most delicate hand of a fair lady. There is one very curious pile of stones here that oscillates readily on pressing against one of the lower stones.

Other rocks hereabout are also noticeable. The stone chairs need only to be mentioned in order to warn the stranger that all is not ancient which he may discover here. The 'Augur's Seat' on Durwood Tor, has been fashioned, no doubt, by some whimsical person at no very remote period. A strange group of rocks will be observed on the summit of a hill on Harthill Moor. They are evidently the remains of the hill itself, which has been worn down in the course of ages,-the hardest crags having longest withstood the action of the elements, and projecting in columnar masses. At a distance it looks like some ruined castle. It has the trivial name of Mock Beggar's Hall, from two of the largest pieces of rock at the opposite ends bearing a fancied resemblance to chimneys: but very few beggars, we think, would wend far towards it. It is also called Robin Hood's Stride; the stones, says the tradition, being set to mark a stride taken by that "famous man ;"—if so, he could stride well, for the stones are twenty yards apart. Close by it is a circular earth-work, called Castle Ring; it is supposed to be a British encampment.

There are several other objects, natural as well as artificial, here, which might well engage attention. It must suffice for us to mention only one other class-the barrows, of which there are many here, and a remarkable number scattered over the north of Derbyshire. The barrows are of various kinds, and probably of various ages. Most of the northern tribes employed this mode of interment, and barrows are as common in Sweden and the north of Germany as in England. Of late barrow-opening has become quite a fashionable archæological employment. One of the most zealous of barrow-openers resides in Youlgrave, a village on the edge of Stanton Moor, where he has a large collection of articles found in these tumuli. Within the last few months he has published the result of his researches, in a volume entitled 'Vestiges of the Antiquities of Derbyshire,' a work which should be consulted by any one who wishes to investigate these early remains. The account of the barrows is particularly full and valuable: a notice is given of "every tumulus opened in the county of which any record has been preserved," and a very particular account of those Mr. Bateman has himself examined. As the reader may like to know what is found in these Derbyshire barrows, we shall quote the account of one of the best of those recently opened: very few, however, are so rich as this, which is known as Green Low.

"It is situated upon the tract of land known as Alsop Moor, which has since proved very productive of ancient British remains. This tumulus had been heaped over a rocky and unequal surface, in which a

hole had been cut in order to serve the purpose of a cist. In removing the upper portion of the barrow a few human bones, horses' teeth, and rats' bones were discovered; and on clearing out the soil with which the cist was filled, the skeleton of a man in the prime of life was laid bare: his knees were contracted and drawn up, until they nearly approached the head; and immediately in the rear of the shoulders were placed an elegant and most elaborately-ornamented drinking-cup, a piece of spherical pyrites, or iron ore, before alluded to as being an occasional ornament of the Britons, a flint instrument of the circular-headed form, and a splendid flint dagger; a little lower down the back of the skeleton there lay three beautifully chipped and barbed arrow-heads of flint, seven other instruments of the same material, but of inferior workmanship, and three instruments made from the ribs of some animal, neatly rounded at each end, and much like a mesh-rule for netting, or perhaps used as modelling-tools in the construction of urns. Still lower down, close to the pelvis, lay the remains of an infant; across the pelvis lay a bone pin, made from the leg of a small deer, which had probably been used to secure the folds of some vestments, in which the body had been enveloped previous to its interment. The contents of this barrow are highly interesting, as they present a striking degree of similarity to the contents of barrows discovered in Wiltshire, particularly to the relics engraved in plate 18, vol. i., of Sir Richard Hoare's work. The drinking-cup there figured bears a characteristic resemblance to the one here discovered, which is quite different to any heretofore found in Derbyshire; indeed, had railways then existed, and communication with distant places been as easy as at the present day, we should have attributed both vessels to one designer and manufacture. All the flints here discovered had undergone the action of fire, and present a spotless white, which materially improves their appearance."

If the rambler should not feel interested in these antiquities (which is not very likely), he will nevertheless not regret a stroll to Stanton Moor. There are rude old mining villages,-some, as Winster, more than commonly picturesque; and there is a great deal of beautiful scenery. The little Lathkill, one of the very loveliest of the lesser Derbyshire rivers, works its way along a valley, through which it is quite a delight to trace it. Mr. Rhodes very truly says, "A walk round Stanton Moor exhibits a greater variety of fine scenery than can be found in the same space in any other part of Derbyshire."

VALLEY OF THE WYE.

We must now turn our steps to the High Peak, and take up our abode awhile at Castleton. In proceeding thither we shall go by way of Monsall Dale and Tideswell, not because it is the nearest way, but as very much the pleasantest. Monsall Dale must not be omitted in a tour of North Derbyshire. After quitting Bakewell we soon arrive at Ashford, a respectable and

Monsall Dale is but a short distance further. The Buxton road follows the river as far as the entrance to the Dale, when it diverges to the west, and is carried over the hills by Taddington. This road we, of course, cannot pursue further; but we may just mention that the prospects from some parts of it delight every traveller. The opening view of Monsall Dale is very fine. Majestic hills rise before you, sweeping round in a bold curve, while the river, a clear swift stream, flows along a meadow of the brightest verdure, and fringed with handsome trees. The dale winds in a serpentine direction, and the river, beside which you can keep through the valley, meanders still more playfully. Here you come upon a broad foaming cascade, which, with the surrounding scenery, makes a striking picture. Close by is a homely rustic bridge. Presently you see a picturesque farm-house nestling among lofty trees, and imaging itself in the clear stream; while a long bridge crosses the river, supported on the oftdescribed 'leppings;' and as a background to all there is the broad heathy mountain side. Over this hill, Longstone Edge, the road to Castleton is carried. We intend to keep by the river, and therefore shall not ascend it; but the stranger should be told that the view from Longstone Edge, with Monsall Dale smiling at your feet, is one of the finest in this land of noble prospects. Besides its pictorial celebrity-and it has furnished many a page in the sketch-books of artist and tourist-Monsall Dale has also a very high piscatorial fame on a promising day in June a dozen brothers of the angle may be seen diligently whipping the stream. The privilege of fishing in Monsall Dale is granted to those who stay at the Devonshire Arms, at Ashford.

Beautiful as is the Wye in its passage through Monsall Dale, it loses nothing of its beauty as you ascend beyond into Cressbrook and Litton Dales: they are narrower, but more companionable therefore, and certainly not less picturesque-save where you meet with a couple of huge cotton-mills. In some places the combinations of rock and river are often of an almost romantic character. Beyond Cressbrook Mill you have to quit the stream, the rocks on both sides rising so steeply from it as to render the glen impassable, except by rather bold pedestrians: but for them there is some of the finest scenery on the Wye; the rough path lies along the left bank. They who take the road will rejoin the river just above Litton Mill, where you enter upon Miller's Dale, along which, for above a mile, there is a succession of scenery that will appear lovely, or grand, or wearisome, according to the season, or the weather, or the temper in which it is beheld. Black impending crags tower far up aloft, but luxuriant foliage abounds, and softens the sternness. The river

At Tideswell Mill the road to Tideswell is met. But the tourist may as well prolong his walk about a mile further to Chee Tor, one of the most celebrated spots on the Wye, and the finest piece of rock and river scenery of its kind in Derbyshire. There is a wild path to it along the river, but it is a private way; and perhaps it will be best (as it is certainly most correct) to turn up the hill on the right to the village of Wormhill, where, at the Red Lion, you will readily obtain the requisite permission and a guide to the Tor. The right of granting access to this wild glen (which is private property, and enclosed,) appertains to the little inn; and Mrs. Heaphy, the hostess, is so civil and ready to oblige (and so very moderate in all her charges), that the stranger will do well to save himself trouble by calling there. Wormhill itself stands on an open elevated spot, and might be described, in Homeric phrase, as "abounding in springs;" for besides the rather celebrated Wormhill spring, which gushes out of the rocks at the base of the hill, they burst forth in almost every field, clear as crystal, and in everflowing plenty. Wormhill is so pleasant and healthy a place, and has so much splendid scenery close at hand, that it is surprising more of the migratory tribe do not settle here for a short summer season.

From the open and comparatively uninteresting country around Wormhill, it would scarcely be expected that so romantic a dell lies just below it. A stranger might pass through the village, and, even though looking diligently around him, leave Chee Dale quite unobserved. But so, let us add, it often happens elsewhere in this Peak district, though perhaps on a less important scale. Everywhere among the hills does some little streamlet find for itself a way down a narrow valley, and create there some quite unimagined beauty. Only to one who resides awhile in these wilder districts do these secluded beauties reveal themselves: from the hasty traveller they are hidden and remain unknown. A rough steep path quickly leads you from the inn down to the river: to assist you over the ruggeder parts of the descent there are some rude steps, which, after the Matlock fashion, are named ‘Adam and Eve's Stairs ;' but, though of very respectable antiquity, they are hardly as old as Adam, if even he ever visited Derbyshire.

Chee Tor deserves all its celebrity. It is an enormous concave wall of limestone, rising perpendicularly from the bed of the river to a height of more than three hundred feet. Other, though not such stupendous masses, rise with equal abruptness on the opposite side of the dell. Here and there a yew has found a root in a fissure of the mighty cliff, or a graceful ash or hazel waves in the soft breeze. The light green fern, brown heath, and dark ivy, climb about the face of the crags, contrasting with the gray or yellow lichens which form their chief covering. All around is silence: you seem shut out from the world, and left to commune in solitude with Nature and your own heart. It is the loveliest and