account. But they do. And unusually threatening as the prospect of a change of life must seem to them, yet, strange as it may appear, we never heard that the fellows of Magdalen were more backward than those of any less-favoured college, to leave it for a living and a wife when they had the chance. The hall has suffered too much by the substitution | One wonders how they can ever give up such good of a vulgar modern ceiling, wainscoting, and other bar-"lodgings" to commence housekeeping on their own barisms, to allow its original beauty to be judged of. It contains a good many interesting portraits; in the windows are various coats of arms. The library has been remodelled and refitted by Mr. Wyatt. The tower will be admired for its fine proportions; internally it has little or nothing to attract the general visitor. All these three buildings, perhaps, will be seen sufficiently, and certainly to most advantage, only on the outside. The cloisters, which enclose an area of 130 feet by 85 feet, were with the area consecrated in 1400, as a cemetery for the collegians. In design they are marked by an appropriate sobriety of character. The ribbed roof which covers them is very curious, bearing a marked resemblance to the rib-work of a ship's hull. The visitor must not leave the college without seeing the garden, which he may freely enter; it is not only worth seeing for its own sake-and it is one of the pleasantest, where there are so many pleasant ones-but parts of the college buildings show most picturesquely from it; and it has a unique bit of the old city wall, kept in as good repair as though it might still repel a foe. It was part of the contract Wykeham entered into with the city when he purchased the land, that the college should maintain for ever that part of the wall which bounded the college property; and the agreement is still faithfully adhered to. But beautiful as is New College, were we to be asked to conduct a stranger to the most perfect example of an Oxford college, we should point to Magdalen. We refer, of course, to its substantial temporalities to those "good things" that cause Oxford to be so much envied, and so well grumbled at-not to the intellectual parts; for with them we have here no concern. Magdalen is, indeed, a glorious place. Buildings it has that gladden the heart and delight the imagination-from the "High embowed roof, With antique pillars massy proof," down to "studious cloisters:" trim gardens, too, are there; smooth-shaven lawns, and "arched walks of twilight groves;" ample endowments also, that provide abundance for the passing day, and promise a tolerable living for a future; choice books, (no doubt old wines,) good society, with gentlemanly leisure to enjoy them all, or just enough employment to give wings to the hours that would else linger, and convert these academic courts and groves into courts and gardens, like those fabled ones, "Where, sooth to say, Ne living wight might work ne cared e'en for play." As it is, these are almost a realization of the scenes that haunted the mind of the young author of 'I Peuseroso.' "Surely," as Wordsworth somewhere says, "Those flows needs must live A comfortable life who sojourn here!" acres. But we must look at this pleasant house and gardens a little more closely. The buildings, which are comprised in three quadrangles, cover an area of above eleven acres; the grounds occupy more than a hundred The founder of Magdalen College was William Waynflete, bishop of Winchester and Lord Chancellor of England in the reign of Henry VI., who was, we may hope, moved to this good work by the example of his great predecessor in those offices. Waynflete laid the first stone of the Great Quadrangle in 1473, and employed William Orchard as master-mason, to construct it; but whether Orchard is to be considered as architect, or merely builder, is not clear—some have attributed the designs to Waynflete himself. The entrance to the college is by the New Gateway at the top of High-street (Cut, No. 4), which was erected in 1844 by Mr. Pugin. It is a very pretty thing of its kind, and exhibits an uncompromising return to the old manner. On the outside are canopied statues of Mary Magdalen, St. John Baptist, and the founder; a statue of the Virgin and Child is on the inside. Shields of arms, the lily and other emblems, and inscriptions in illuminated Gothic characters are plentifully distributed about. The appearance of the buildings on passing through the gateway is very fine Immediately in front is the western end of the chapel, displaying a splendid window, and beneath it an elaborately-ornamented doorway, with a shallow porch richly sculptured, and surmounted by five statues in canopied niches-forming altogether an uncommonly handsome elevation; with which the summit of the lofty tower that is seen rising above, though a detached buliding, very well composes, as a painter would say. On the left hand, in front of the President's lodgings, is seen a noble gateway-tower, the original entrance into the Great Quadrangle. The gateway is adorned, like the chapel porch, with canopied statues; these being of St. John, St. Mary, Henry III., and the founder. The elegant groined roof of the gateway should also be noticed. The room over the gateway is called the Founder's Chamber. In the right hand corner of this court is a curious stone pulpit, from which a sermon used to be annually preached to the members of the University on St. John the Baptist's day, the members standing during it in the open quad., which on the occasion was dressed with boughs and strewed with rushes. The custom has long been discontinued, but it was observed less than a century ago; for the Rev. W. Jones (of Nayland) in his Life of Bishop Horne,' when mentioning that the bishop was appointed to preach this sermon [ in 1755, says, "so long as the stone pulpit was in use was furnished round the sides with a large fence of green boughs, that the preaching might more nearly resemble that of John the Baptist in the wilderness; and a pleasant sight it was." (of which I have been a witness) the quadrangle | up they are said to have been coloured. The New Buildings, erected about a century back, we do not advise the stranger to visit: they are three hundred feet long, three stories high, and the apartments into which they are divided are lofty and convenient. All their excellences are told: the external design is about on a level with that of Pickford's warehouses. It was seriously proposed, in that most tasteful eighteenth century, to take down all the old buildings and erect a new college altogether in some such style as this new building! One other structure remains to be noticedthe splendid Magdalen Tower-one of the chief orna The chapel is one of the finest buildings in Oxford. It was completed by the founder, and is a choice specimen of the perpendicular style. Since its erection it has undergone many mutations. At the Reformation it was despoiled of much of its sculpture and furniture; and the Commonwealth soldiers treated it much worse. Then after the Restoration it was repaired, but only in an indifferent manner. In 1740 it endured a beauti-ments of Oxford, and perhaps the most noticeable fying, and the glorious Gothic pile was made as fine as "Grecian " screens and panelling, nondescript stalls, and plaster ceiling could make it. Happily it is once more restored (as far as could be desired) to nearly its primal glory-only the roof remains to be renewed. In 1833, it underwent a thorough and most costly restoration under the direction of the late Mr. Cottingham, who carried through his undertaking with great skill and the most painstaking diligence. The carvings, whether in stone on the walls or in the oak stalls, are all executed with a care and felicity that the old monkish architects would have admired. The stone organ-screen is well worthy of scrutiny. The organ itself has a curious history. It was cast down as superstitious at the Puritan clearance; but Cromwell had heard it and liked its tone, and he accordingly had it removed to Hampton Court, and set up there for his own particular delectation. There it remained till the return of Charles, when it was replaced in Magdalen College chapel. All the recent improvements have been added to it, and it is now much admired by the lovers of church music. The visitor should attend a choral service at Magdalen chapel and hear "The pealing organ blow To the full voiced-choir below." feature from all parts of the city and the suburbs. Close at hand it is perhaps best seen from the little court called the Chaplain's Quad. This tower is a lofty detached pile a hundred and fifty feet high; of the most entire simplicity of form, and graceful proportions-perhaps the most beautiful structure in England of its kind and style. It was begun in 1492 and finished in 1498; Cardinal Wolsey was then Burser of the college, and some writers have attributed a share of the design to him, while others insinuate that though he assisted in its erection it was chiefly by an undue appropriation of the college money to the purpose. Before the Reformation, a mass used to be said on the top of this tower every May-morning. And still, though the mass is discontinued, some choral melody is regularly sung there at five o'clock on that morning. We must let the grounds be unpraised, though the theme be so tempting. How soft and pleasant are the lawns, how cool and shady the avenues, how delightful the water-walk alongside the cheerful Cherwell, with the peep at that antique-looking water-mill! And then that dainty relic of monastic days, the little Deer Park, how old-world like it seems to step out of the High-street of a great city upon a quiet secluded nook like this, where deer are browsing quite unconcernedly among huge old elms! Cambridge gardens, beautiful as they are, have nought like this. It is solemn and impressive in no ordinary degree. The Hall is a fine room, and contains many good portraits of eminent members, but we cannot stay to Well, we must away: and now let us stroll togedescribe it; nor to speak of the royal and distinguished ther to another college, not so magnificent as this, visitors it has entertained. We must also pass by the but as quiet and pleasant a place for education, and as Library, merely mentioning that it is equal to most, agreeable and gentlemanly a retreat after education that it contains a capital collection of books, and a few be completed, as by a contemplative scholar could well good busts. The large cloistered quadrangle should be desired. Wadham College is of more recent date be seen. It was begun by the founder in 1473, but than any we have yet visited, having been founded by the south cloister was not erected till 1490. Its Nicholas Wadham, and built, after his death, by his appearance is at once grand and singular. It contains widow, between the years 1610 and 1613. Perhaps the chapel, hall, library, and president's lodgings, with this college affords the most favourable example of the cloisters, as we said, running all round. Along Gothic architecture of so late a date. Though debased, the inside of the quad. is a series of strange grotesque there is yet much of the genuine old spirit about these figures, the purpose of which appears inexplicable. A buildings; they have an air of neatness and compactclever explanation of them was drawn up by one of ness, and the general effect is remarkably good. The the fellows in the last century, which regards them as front is very effective; and the entrance gate-tower is symbolical, and attributes to then certain moral excellent. On passing through this, you find yourself significations. Their appearance is not a little ludicrous in a quadrangle 130 feet square, having directly in we confess to not regarding them as any ornament front a well-proportioned hall and chapel; and on to the place. They do not form part of the original either side buildings of a regular and handsome elevadesign, having been added in 1509; when first set tion,-in fact, one of the prettiest quads. in Oxford,” as a senior-fellow remarked to us the other day. The hall is a remarkably fine room, 82 feet long, 35 feet wide, and 37 feet high, with an open timber roof of high pitch, and a handsome oak screen. The great window and the oriel in this hall are much admired. Round the walls hang some capital portraits, by Reynolds and others, of the more eminent members of the college. The chapel is, perhaps, still finer than the hall it has recently been admirably repaired and altered by Mr. Blore, and perhaps is now even more effective than when first built. This chapel, by the way, is a proof of the care that is needful in deciding on the age of a building merely by certain peculiarities in the architectural details. Many experienced archæologists have pronounced this to be genuine perpendicular; and, in support of their fancy, supposed that it had been part of the Austin Priory, on whose site the college was built; but the college records prove incontestibly that it was erected at the same time as the other collegiate buildings. Being privileged folk, we may take the liberty to walk into the garden, though it be not open to the public. And we confess that it was as much to show him a good specimen of a private college-garden, as a good specimen of one of the later colleges, that we brought the visitor here. Those who merely think of a garden as a piece of pleasure-ground attached to an ordinary house, can hardly imagine how different, how much more beautiful, it is when attached to these glorious Gothic buildings, which at every turn yield some fresh feature of picturesque beauty. This garden of Wadham is not better, perhaps, than a great many of the other small pleasaunces attached to Oxford colleges; but it is so beautiful that we thought we might select it as a good example of one. Like most of them, too, it is always perfectly "trim," as such gardens should be. We have given (Cut, No. 5,) a sketch of the Chapel and part of the Fellows' Apartments, as seen in connection with a portion of this garden: there are a score other such picturesque "bits" to be seen in different parts of it. The colleges we have inspected may be taken as samples of the Oxford colleges: we can only glance at one or two more in a cursory way, and leave the rest unnoticed: we shall, however, have seen the more characteristic. Balliol College need not stay the stranger's feet: Trinity, which lies behind it, is generally pointed out as worth visiting; and it doubtless is, by those who have plenty of time: we have not, and, moreover, are just going to run hurriedly over St. John's. The buildings of St. John's are chiefly comprised in two large quadrangles. The first, or Old Quadrangle, has an air of simple grandeur; the second, built by Inigo Jones, with the exception of the library on the south side, at the expense of Archbishop Laud, has more pretension, but, to our thinking, much less propriety of character. The east and west sides are built upon an Ionic colonnade, above which are statues of Charles I. and his queen. The chapel is the most interesting building at St. John's; and, since its restoration, it is one of the best of the second rank in Oxford. Before its alteration it was defaced by all sorts of eye-sores: under the care of Mr. Blore it has been brought to a uniformity and propriety of character that is quite refreshing to contemplate. The effect of the organ being removed into the mortuary chapel is as pleasing as novel. At the east end of the chapel are deposited the remains of Archbishops Laud and Juxon, who were both members of this college; and close by are those of Sir Thomas White, the founder. The gardens of St. John's are generally regarded as among the finest in Oxford; they occupy a space of three acres, and are laid out with much taste. They are, like the other large gardens, freely open to the public. We have now looked, with more or less care, at about half the colleges in Oxford; the remainder of them, and all the halls, we shall leave unvisited, feeling that we have shown enough to give a rude notion of the amazing riches of this city, yet fearful that our companions will have already become weary of so long a tarriance over one class of objects. And yet we cannot help reminding the tourist that he ought to visit Pembroke College for the sake of Samuel Johnson, whose connection with any place so invariably makes his name recur to the memory of every one who looks upon it. Pembroke College is entered from the square directly opposite the Tom gate of Christ Church. Johnson's room is on the second floor over the entrance gateway; and from that window it was that the "heroic student" pitched, in furious ire, the pair of new shoes that some well-meaning neighbour had placed against his door, on seeing that his feet were peering out of his old ones. Johnson, as is well known, left Oxford long before the usual time, and, beyond doubt, from poverty: but he read, as he said, "solidly" while there; and he always regarded the University, and his college in particular, with veneration; and, in return, his memory is cherished here as it ought to be. Pembroke is one of the colleges that has undergone restoration, and the tower has now a smarter appearance than when Johnson lodged in it. Having surveyed, as far as appears needful, what belongs to the University, we may now turn to the city. In population it exceeds Cambridge by a few hundreds only, being 23,656 at the census of 1841; the number of residents in the University was, at the same time, somewhat under 2,000. Oxford is a corporate city, governed by a mayor, aldermen, and towncouncillors, and it sends two members to Parliament. It has the usual corporate buildings; but there is nothing in them to call for description here. Of the general appearance of the town we have spoken. The streets have some shops and private houses about them that are noticeable on account of their antiquity; and there is scarcely a street in any part of the city that does not, from some point, show one or more of the academic buildings combining with the neighbouring | inside: the Norman parts show traces of the ancient houses into a picturesque group. The modern shops carvings, but they are mostly destroyed. The porch are, many of them, of the most approved and newest style, and, both in that respect and in the display of goods, would do credit to the metropolis. In our account of Cambridge we spoke of the very characteristic quiet of the streets: this is observable also at Oxford, but not, perhaps, to the same degree. The difference may arise from its being nearer London, and in a more frequented line of road; but we doubt if it does entirely. Oxford has altogether a more "stylish" air, perhaps from the students being, on the whole, of a more aristocratic class,—and also has the appearance of not being so fully given up to educational observances. All who know Oxford know that it has a goodly band of earnest and laborious and most devoted students; but perhaps it has also a larger proportion of idlers, and their doings are such as most catch the attention of a looker-on. We have mentioned the walls of Oxford, and that a piece is to be seen, in a perfect state, in the garden of New College. Other fragments may be seen by Merton College, in George-lane, and elsewhere; but as they are not in nearly so perfect a condition, it is not worth while to refer to them more particularly. A tower of the old castle is still standing. The site of the other parts of it is now occupied by the County Hall, a prodigious structure, built some seven or eight years ago, in the modern castellated style. The old tower, which can be pretty well seen from the Millstream, is called St. George's Tower. A small crypt and some other slight vestiges of the castle also remain, but they are only of interest to the professed antiquary. Some mounds, that are supposed to have been thrown up at the famous siege, may be seen close to the remains of the castle. These are all the remains that are left, of a warlike nature, connected with the old city. Two or three churches must be briefly noticed. Oxford has a good many that would be considered of uncommon value elsewhere, but here may be safely left unnamed. All that it has are now well cared for; several have been restored with great taste; and probably in no other place where there are so many churches (there are here fourteen or fifteen parish churches), are they in such beautiful condition. The oldest church in Oxford is St. Peter's-in-the-East, which stands just by Queen's College, and adjoining to St. Edmund's Hall. A more interesting church than this, of its size, it would be difficult to find. It has a crypt of very ancient date-it is generally said, of the ninth century, but probably Norman,—which is almost a repetition, in little, of the crypt of Winchester Cathedral. The chancel of the church is Norman, and has a groined roof; the nave is also partly Norman, but it has windows of later date; and the south aisle is altogether of the decorated order. The whole has been restored with the greatest care; and its appearance inside is exquisite, almost the ideal of an English Protestant church. The exterior is no less striking than the is a fine one of the time of Henry VI., and above it is a room for a priest. Altogether the parts, though of such various times and differences in style, appear by no means discordant, but group together most artistically. A Guide-book, of a century back, thus records the glory of the parish of which this is the parish church :- "This has more to boast of than any other parish in Europe, or even in the world, as containing within itself, besides the grand colleges (not to say palaces) of Magdalen, New, Queen's, and, in part, University; also Hertford; the Halls of St. Edmund, Magdalen, and part of St. Alban's; and as having two peals of ten bells, one of six, and three organs, two of which are used, twice a day, in choral service." But the most magnificent church in Oxford is St. Mary's, the University Church, so called from the University sermons being preached in it. No one who has been at Oxford can forget this church, from the grand feature its spire forms in every view of the High-street, and, indeed, from all the most visited parts of the city. The church itself is large, and of noble appearance. The various parts, as is so frequently the case in ancient churches, have been built at very different periods; but, internally at least, they harmonise admirably since the late very judicious alterations and repairs. The arrangements of the Vicechancellor's throne and the stalls of the University dignitaries, and, indeed, the whole of the fittings, contribute not a little to the general good effect. When, on some "gaudy," all the great men and doctors are assembled in their robes of scarlet and gold, with the rest of the members in full state, the church affords a rare sight to a stranger; but at all times it is an interesting and characteristic one, and should be seen. After all it is the outside that dwells most on the memory; and of this the "chief, probably, in point of interest to every visitor of the University, is the exquisitely beautiful tower and spire." We quote from Parker's Handbook to Oxford,' an admirable guide to the architecture of the good city; the account of the spire is thus continued :-" The panels and gables of the pinnacles testify to its date, being lined with a profusion of pomegranates in honour of Eleanor of Castile, the mother of Edward II., in whose reign it appears probable the work was completed. The superintendent of the work was Eleanor's almoner, Adam de Brom, whose chapel beneath, on the western side of the tower-base, was founded at this time, but rebuilt in the fifteenth century, at the same time with the nave." This spire is shown prominently in the engraving of the High-street; but its marvellous beauty can there only be faintly pourtrayed. The carving that covers, without crowding, the buttresses and finials, has a richness and intricacy that it would require a Prout or Roberts to give effect to. From the nature of the stone, of which this and a large part of the other buildings of Oxford are constructed, the surface undergoes constant disintegration, and pro- | Magdalene, which should be called the Martyrs' Aisle. duces on the old Gothic work the peculiar richness, to which we before alluded. The effect on this spire has gone as far as it can with safety be permitted. When | examined from the outside of the Radcliffe dome, which brings you about on a level with the base of the spire, the eroded appearance is quite startling: much that from below you thought to be the effect of elaborate workmanship is here seen to be the result of decay; and a large portion has become wholly indistinct. We suppose the tourist does not need to be told that he will only half see the city, unless he sees it by "the pale moonlight." The effect of the moonlight on this church and spire is delicious: it brightens in that mystic manner poets often attempt to describe, but no words can adequately convey a notion of. But all Oxford is glorious by moonlight. The High-street puts on quite a new splendour. Before we leave the church we may notice the singular porch opposite Oriel-street, whose twisted columns and entirely unusual style is sure to attract attention. A piece of history is attached to it :-" It was erected in 1637, by Dr. Morgan Owens, chaplain to Archbishop Laud, at an expense of £230. Over it is a statue of the Virgin with the Child in her arms, holding a small crucifix, which at the time of its erection gave such offence to the puritans, that it was included in the articles of impeachment against the archbishop," (Parker.) The spire seen beyond that of St. Mary's, in the engraving of the High-street, belongs to All Saints' church, a curious structure, erected, at the beginning of the eighteenth century, by Dean Aldrich, D.D., the author of Elements of Civil Architecture,' who has here attempted the impracticable task of uniting the characteristics of Grecian and Gothic architecture. Leaving all the rest of the churches, we shall visit one more edifice, one of the latest and most graceful of the recent architectural additions to Oxford-the Martyrs' Memorial (Cut, No. 6). It stands at the northern entrance to the town, just by Mary Magdalen church, being the nearest suitable spot to the scene where the martyrs Cranmer, Ridley, and Latimer met their doom. The history of that event is too familiar to need repeating here. The imprisonment, the mock disputations and trial, the momentary retraction of Cranmer are all a household tale. The exact spot where the stakes were fixed is not quite certain; but it is believed to have been in the city ditch, opposite Balliol College, where now stands the row of houses in Broadstreet. Previous to their execution the prelates were confined in a prison called Boccardo, a gate-house which stood across Cornmarket-street, by St. Michael's Church; it was removed in 1778. From the top of this prison Cranmer is said to have beheld the execution of his old associates. The memorial of their martyrdom was at first intended to be a church; but, for various reasons, it was finally deemed advisable to erect a cross, and, with the surplus funds, to add an additional aisle to the neighbouring church of St. Mary The first stone of the Memorial was aid on the 19th of May, 1841, exactly three centuries after Cranmer's English Bill was finished and "authorised by royal authority" to be read. Messrs. Scott and Moffatt were the architects whose design was selected for execution; and, as it now stands completed, a very beautiful one it is. These gentlemen took for their model the Eleanor Cross at Waltham; but, instead of a mere copy, they produced a work that, in many respects, certainly surpasses their original. It is an hexagonal structure of three stories, mounted on a platform of steps. The total height is 73 feet, and the gradations are so easy that the whole is at once airy and substantial. The style is the decorated, and every part is enriched with most elaborate carvings. The lower story has the inscription. In the second story, under canopies of exceeding richness, are the statues of the three martyrs, admirably sculptured by Mr. Weekes. The whole is surmounted by a very elegant cross. The position of the Memorial is a very happy one, and it is no small ornament to the northern approach to the city: altogether it would be difficult to find a public memorial that exhibits more of beauty and propriety. The adjacent aisle of the church is in the same style of architecture, and is made to be, in its ornamentation, allusive to the martyrs. Before he quits Oxford for good the visitor should stroll at leisure over the Christ Church Meadow, and peep again into the groves of Magdalen. The Meadow belongs to Christ Church College, and is kept in order at the cost of the college, but it is open to the public without any reserve. The Isis and Cherwell bound three sides of it, on the fourth are the college buildings and Merton field. It is a mile and a quarter round; the Wide Walk, a fine avenue of elms-now beginning to decay-is a quarter of a mile long. In thinking of these meadows, it is hardly possible not to contrast them with the Walks of Cambridge, yet there are few points of comparison between them; the walks of Cambridge are beautiful in themselves, but they derive their chief beauty from the backs of so many of the principal colleges opening upon them. It is not so here. These meadows are so situated, that only occasional and partial glimpses are caught of the buildings; when such are caught, they are very lovely, but they are few and far between ; in Cambridge they are continuous. Yet there is a great charm about these meadows. The long winding shady walks by the Cherwell, a succession of close shut-in reaches, yet constantly changing; and though you know that you are far from alone, so seemingly secluded: then that, again, by the Isis (as the Thames is called here), always so lively and gay; and the many other walks that need not be mentioned; it is impossible not to have a kind of liking for them that is not felt for those of the sister University. And you can get, too, so readily over to those more retired ones of Magdalen, the perfection of Academic groves! We give a representation of a favourite peep from Christ |