the lowland drainage; while the upland rivers were | Whittlesea Mere; and their bleating is heard where the .confined between high banks, so as to over-ride the watery solitudes once echoed to the croaking of frogs surface of the Fens. The sea-walls were strengthened and the clanking cry of water-fowl. and improved; the valve-doors which let the drainwater through, shutting by their own action against the rising tide, were repaired and made water-tight; and the great arterial drainage was at length advancing towards completion. During the next twenty-five years extraordinary progress was made. The last great work was the cutting of the Nene Outfall-a noble canal, penetrating far through the sandbanks of the Wash, into the open sea; and giving, after many years, the outlet so long needed for the sluggish waters of the river. When opened, the tremendous rush and impetuosity of the current showed how well these practical men had calculated their end, and at once removed all fear of future siltings or inaction. So extraordinary was its effect upon the whole Fen level, that after the lapse of a few hours the drains of far distant districts began to act; and at Thorney, near Peterborough, a distance of fifteen miles, the waters commenced running off with such rapidity that-it happening to be Sunday-the whole congregation flocked out of church, parson and all, to see this great sight, and acknowledge the blessings of science. The task was done. From that time to this, improvement has rapidly advanced. Immense districts have been drained and brought under cultivation. The plough has passed over the bed of Holland Fen, and the farmer reaps his increase by an hundred fold. Sheep graze in the dry basin of The work of defence being over, it was not long ere one of aggrandizement commenced. Vast tracts of the marsh-land are now being inclosed by barrier banks, to be reclaimed and cultivated. The Norfolk Estuary Company propose to reclaim 50,000 acres; the Lincolnshire Estuary Company, 30,000; and the Victoria Level Scheme would comprise 150,000 acres, now under the dominion of the sea. We cannot conclude better than in the words of a Fen poet, who, writing in the last century, looked forward to this Golden Age "I sing floods muzzled and the ocean tam'd, Streams curb'd with dammes, like bridles, taught t'obey Meadows so blest with grass, so charg'd with hay; "Then with a change of elements, suddenly of the Sceni, a nation which appears to have formed an | principal Colleges at Cambridge, and falls into the Ouse early alliance with that people. In consequence of some insult offered to one of their queens, the Sceni rose in revolt against their conquerors, but, being defeated, with great slaughter, the race ceased to be recorded as a separate people. The country occupied by them, after several revolutions, became the Saxon kingdom of East Anglia, and part of the kingdom of Essex; which, with the other states of the Heptarchy, were incorporated into one monarchy, under Egbert. In the northern divisions of the county the towns and villages are built on elevated spots, and, at a distance, present the appearance of islands rising from the low and level marshes; the churches, being generally built on the highest parts, may be distinguished at a great distance. Cambridgeshire is a great agricultural county. In places subject to occasional overflowing of its many waters, it is celebrated for the fertility of its water-meadows and its dairy produce. The salt marshes, in the north-eastern part of the county, produce most luxuriant crops of wheat, but their produce is frequently destroyed by the floods. The south-eastern division of the county, reaching from the Gogmagog Hills to Newmarket, is bleak, heathy, and thinly inhabited, being part of the vast tract of land which extends southward into Essex, and northward and eastward into Suffolk and Norfolk, forming the great sand plains of the east coast. This tract is chiefly occupied as sheep-walks, but some of the best portions have been appropriated to the growth of barley. In the southern division of the county the land is more elevated, exhibiting a remarkable contrast to the northern districts, and producing fine crops of wheat, oats, and barley, while the uncultivated heaths and commons intersecting these districts furnish abundant sustenance to large flocks of sheep. The valley of the CAM, from Steeple Morden to Walton-called the Devizes, is almost wholly occupied by dairy farms. The soil of Cambridgeshire is very diversified; the rich marshes in the neighbourhood of Wisbech present a mixture of sand and clay, or silt; in the Fens of a strong black earth, lying upon gravel, and very favourable to the culture of oats. In the uplands the soil consists of chalk, gravel, loam, and clay upon gault. The principal rivers of Cambridgeshire are the Ouse and the Cam, or Granta. The former enters the county between Fenny Drayton and Erith; thence it runs eastward through the Fens, till, a little above Fenny Abbey, it takes a northerly direction and flows into Norfolk, passing Stretham, Ely, and Littleport. The Ouse in its course offers many points of picturesque beauty, and has been the favourite sketching-ground of some of our greatest English artists. The Cam has three branches; the principal one rises near Asknell, in Hertfordshire, and enters this county to the west of Gilden-Mordan; thence it flows to the north-east, receiving many rivulets as tributaries in its course. At Grantchester its current is enlarged by the waters of its sister stream; hence, taking a northerly direction, the Cam glides through the walks of the near Thetford. Besides these, the principal natural rivers of the county, there are numerous streams in the northern districts whose channels have been formed for the convenience, and by the industry, of man. These intersect the county in all directions, carrying off, as we have seen, the surplus waters of the Fens, and being the means of bringing thousands of acres into cultivation. From Gog-Magog hills an extensive view is obtained over the county, and also into the adjoining ones of Essex and Herefordshire. Thirty-three churches may be counted scattered over these counties,-and "How beautiful they stand, Those ancient churches of our native land! By little brooks, that with a lisping sound, Like playful children, run by copse and lea! Each in its little plot of holy ground, How beautiful they stand, Those old grey churches of our native land!” Above them all towers proudly Ely's nobie cathedral. The city of Ely stands in the isle of the same name. This district is separated from the rest of the county by the river Ouse, which washes the northern border of the island. Ely itself is more like a country town than a city-being of small extent; yet it is much visited by antiquarians, eager to see its "beautiful church;" and by naturalists-the neighbourhood abounding in a peculiar species of aquatic plants and water birds. Bede tells us that it takes its name from "Elge," or "Elig," an eel; that fish being found in abundance in the rivers. But the willow grows profusely in the island-the British term for which was "Helig ;" and some antiquaries think that is the true origin of the name. It stands on an eminence, which makes the cathedral appear a commanding object from the country around. This edifice, commenced between the reigns of William Rufus and Edward III., presents a combination of the Saxon, Gothic, and early English. Its extreme length is 534 feet on the exterior; in the interior 517 feet. The western tower is 215 feet high; and the two towers of the south-west transept each 120 feet. The interior is very beautiful; and the choir is a fine specimen of the Early English pointed style. Besides the cathedral, strangers should not leave Ely without seeing Trinity Church, founded in 1321, one of the handsomest religious edifices in the kingdom; and the Bishops' Palace-a neat structure built by Bishops Abott and Goodrich. Cambridgeshire is celebrated amongst the lovers of the turf for being the head quarters of horse-racing ; for although Newmarket-which is considered the metropolitan race-town of England-stands principally in Suffolk, it is popularly considered as belonging to the former county. This well-built town contains many splendid residences of noblemen and gentlemen connected with the turf; the Jockey Club has a very elegant suite of rooms; and the hotels and stables are numerous for the size of the place. The races are held in April, July, and October, and are amongst the best frequented in England. But the chief glory of the county is the university town of Cambridge itselffamed for its learning; but, above all, for the liberality of its bye-laws, by which all who aspire to the blessings of learning may attain their wishes. To the stranger who for the first time visits Cambridge—and of course with expectations highly raised -there is something exceedingly disappointing in its appearance. It lies in the midst of a country almost perfectly flat. However you may approach it you must come close upon it before you are aware that you are near it; and then only a spire or two, and the turrets of King's College Chapel rise above the surrounding trees to indicate its proximity. Nor does its aspect much improve when you enter it. The town is quite devoid of dignity or beauty. Not only has it no street that can rival the famous High-street of Oxford, but it has only one that is respectable. Even the classic Cam is found to be but a lazy stream of muddy green water. Yet, were Cambridge infinitely worse than it is, what Englishman could walk through it without feeling his spirit stirred within him when he recollected, as he must recollect, that it was the intellectual birth-place of Milton, Bacon, Newton, and many another "Giant of mighty bone and bold emprise," whose peaceful victories are among the most glorious achievements of his country? And though the first view of Cambridge be disappointing, a further and closer acquaintance with it will supply enough, both of beauty and of grandeur, to yield a rich harvest to the memory in many an after day. Our of this great seat of learning must necessurvey sarily be both general and cursory, but we hope to be able, at least, to direct attention to some of its most noteworthy features; and while endeavouring to guide the visitor, we trust to be able to interest in some degree the reader who can only visit it in imagination. Before we set about our perambulation of the town and University, it may be well to glance hastily at their history. "the time of Gurguntius"-for his university, but when it was said that Oxford was founded A.D. 870, Cambridge triumphantly declared that she had existed. for 400 years before the Christian era-and some bolder advocates insisted on carrying her origin still further back. The Oxonians, so far from being silenced, issued a reply which they fondly imagined would 'extinguish' their opponents, but the men of Cambridge held firmly to their pedigree. Nearly a century later the controversy was renewed where we should hardly expect to hear of it. In the Long Parliament, which we are accustomed to consider as a very business-like or at any rate very anti-archæological body, the question was warmly discussed. In a subsidy bill the Committee which drew the bill placed the name of Cambridge before that of Oxford. On its being presented to the House, a motion was made that the name of Oxford should stand first. Sir Simonds D'Ewes was the Cambridge advocate, and so pleased was he with his defence of the superior antiquity of his Alma Mater, that he published his speech; which may still be seen among the pamphlets of the Commonwealth period, in the British Museum. He protested he would prove that "Cambridge was a renowned city at least five hundred years before there was a house at Oxford standing, and whilst brute beasts fed, or corn was sown, on that place where the same city is now seated; and that Cambridge was a nursery of learning before Oxford was known to have a grammar-school in it; or he will yield up his bucklers." He set about his work manfully beginning with "the ancient catalogue of the cities of Britain," wherein he found that "Cambridge is the ninth in number, while London is but the eleventh!" And who, he asks triumphantly, "who would have thought that ever Oxford should have contended for precedence with Cambridge, when even London gave it about 1200 years since?" The matter has long ceased to be debated, and Cambridge is content that Oxford should have the precedency-by Act of Parliament, which, as Selden observes, "is the best argument for it." The tradition to which the Orator referred in addressFor a long time the alumni of Oxford and Cambridge ing Elizabeth, and that which the Cambridge writers felt themselves bound in honour, and in duty, to conbelieved to be so convincing, was rather an extraorditend for the pre-eminence and seniority of their nary one. It told that Cantaber, a Spanish prince, respective nursing mothers. Often has the matter been being driven from his country by domestic tumult, fled eagerly debated; and more than once with some pomp to Britain, where he was hospitably received by the of circumstance. When Elizabeth visited Cambridge king, Gurguntius, who not only sheltered him but in 1564, among other 'pleasures in learning' wherewith gave him his daughter Guenolena in marriage. Canthe Heads of Houses entertained her Majesty, was a taber built for himself and his bride a city on the Latin speech by the University Orator, in which he banks of the river Cante, and called it after his own expatiated on the superior dignity and antiquity of his name, Cantabrigia. Being a lover of learning he imuniversity; assuring her that it was of far more ancient ported from Athens, where he had received his own date than either Oxford or Paris, "and out of the education, a colony of philosophers, and established which as out of a most clear fountain they sprang." them in his new city; and this was the foundation of As soon as the report of this speech reached the banks the great town and University of Cambridge. The of Isis, Oxford was aroused, and a champion at once date of the foundation was variously stated at from stood forth. His challenge was readily accepted, and 3676 to 4338 a.m. The safest reckoning perhaps was the war of words raged fierce and long. The Cam- that of the University Orator,—" Gurguntii temporibus." bridge Orator had claimed but an indefinite antiquity-One of the embellishments of the fable made Anaxi and another stated that its eminence was so great that Julius Cæsar carried some of the scholars with him to Rome when he returned thither from England. mander and Anaxagoras teachers in the University, | Grantebridge. The history of the town apart from the University is not very important. It was ravaged by the Danes in 871; and eight years later "the three Danish kings, Gothrum, Oskytel, and Anwind, went to Cambridge with a great army, and remained there a year." At subsequent periods Cambridge several times suffered from the visits of these marauders: in 1010 it was plundered and almost entirely destroyed. For awhile it remained in ruins, but it had again arisen before the Norman conquest. Soon after his accessin William visited Cambridge, where he stayed some time ; he built a castle here in 1070. In 1088 the town was sacked by the barons who espoused the cause of Robert Curthose against William Rufus. The only historic notices of the town for many years are of a similar character. In 1174 it was greatly injured by a fire which destroyed or damaged most of the churches. During the civil wars in the reigns of Stephen and John, Cambridge and its neighbourhood were several times the scenes of battles and sieges. It was plundered in 1214 by William of Salisbury, and Falk de Brent, the favourite of King John, who, according to Fuller, "left nothing worth anything behind them, that was not too hot or too heavy for them to carry away." The last occasion on which the castle was formally attacked was after the battle of Evesham, when it was taken and the town plundered by the barons. From this time Cambridge was left unfortified, and remained unmolested. Frequent quarrels occurred between the townsmen and the scholars, and some of them were of a formidable nature, but the town was not again made a military post till the reign of Charles I., when, on the breaking out of the civil war, it was taken possession of by Cromwell, who had, by the way, twice represented the town in Parliament. During the war it remained in the hands of the Parliament. Charles once brought an army before it, but he departed without venturing on an attack. Cambridge has been often visited by the reigning sovereign, but the visits were made rather to the University than the town. We may speak of one of them presently. This tradition is sufficiently absurd to carry, as the phrase is, 'its own refutation along with it:' but there is another which "although the external evidence for it is not very strong, is of so very unpretending a character, that it may fairly be left to stand on its own probability"—we quote the words of Professor Malden, a sufficient authority. The tradition itself he thus repeats, ('Origin of Universities,' p. 93,) "It is said that Joffred, Abbot of Croyland in 1109, successor of Ingulphus, sent over to his manor of Cotenham nigh Cambridge, Gislebert, his fellow monk and professor of divinity, and three other monks, who followed him into England (from Orleans). From Cotenham they daily repaired to Cambridge. There they hired a public barn, made open profession of their sciences, and, in a little time, drew a number of scholars together. In less than two years time their number increased from the country, as well as town, that there was never a house, barn, or church, big enough to hold them all. Upon which they dispersed themselves in different parts of the town, imitating the University of Orleans.' Three of the party taught the three branches of the Trivium,―grammar, logic, and rhetoric; and Gislebert preached to the people on Sundays and holidays." The authority for this tale-the continuator of Ingulphus-is of doubtful value and the story must depend on its own merits: it may be observed, however, that recent inquirers have discovered some points of resemblance between the earliest known arrangements of Cambridge University and that of Orleans, and there appears to be reason to believe that some connection did subsist between them. It seems pretty certain that there was no university at Cambridge at the Norman conquest, as there is not the slightest reference either to schools or scholars in the Domesday Survey. The earliest official documents which notice the University of Cambridge are dated the 15th of Henry III. (1231), and in them the University is recognised as an established body. It is Tradition, which gave the University so ancient an origin, also gave the town an early importance and size that are quite as questionable-making it to have once stretched for above three miles along the banks of the Cam, namely from Grantchester to Chesterton, or nearly thrice the length of the present town. certain that Cambridge was the Roman town Camboricum, and it appears probable that military outposts and perhaps villas and other scattered edifices may have extended for some distance from the town. Roman remains have been occasionally found at various places between the villages above mentioned. The Roman town is believed to have stood upon what is now known as Castle End. In Anglo-Saxon times the town was called Grantaceaster, or the city on the Granta, which was the Saxon name of the river now called the Cam. In the Domesday Survey it is called | The University, as we have seen, was in existence as a privileged body in 1231. The royal letters in which it is mentioned have reference to the dispute that had already commenced between the townsmen and the scholars. At that time the students were lodged in houses about the town, and, as Fuller tells, "the townsmen began now most unconscionably to raise and rack the rent of their houses wherein the scholars did sojourn. Every low cottage was high valued. Sad the condition when learning is the tenant and ignorance must be the landlord. It came at last to this pass that the scholars, wearied with exactions, were on the point of departing to find a place where they might be better accommodated on more reasonable conditions. Here the king seasonably interposed his power, appointing that two masters of arts and two honest townsmen should be deputed as Chancellors, conscientiously to moderate the rigour of covetousness. And seeing the scholars would hire as cheap, and towns |