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DESCRIPTION OF ST. PAUL'S.

From the same.

St. Paul's is situated on a pleas. ing eminence of about two miles in extent, surrounded on three sides by low meadow land, and washed at the base by rivulets, which almost insulate it in rainy weather; it is connected with the high-land by a narrow ridge. The rivulets flow into a pretty large stream called the Tieti, which runs within a mile of the town in a south-west direction. Over them there are several bridges, some of stone and others of wood, built by the late governor. The streets of St. Paul's, owing to its elevation (about 50 feet above the plain), and the water which almost surrounds it, are in general remarkably clean; the material with which they are paved, is lamillary grit stone, cemented by oxide of iron, and containing large pebbles of rounded quartz, approximating to the conglomerate. This pavement is an alluvial formation containing gold, many particles of which metal are found in the chinks and hollows after heavy rains, and at such seasons are diligently sought for by the poorer sort of people.

This city was founded by the Jesuits, who were probably tempted by the gold mines in the vicinity, more than by the salubrity of its air, which however is not excelled by any on the whole continent of South America. The me dium of the thermometer here is between 50 and 80 degrees; in a morning I have observed it at 48, and even lower, though I was not there in the winter months. The rains are by no means heavy or of long continuance, and the thunder ၁၉

storms are far from being violent The cold in the evenings was fre quently so considerable that I was obliged to shut my doors and windows, put on more clothes, and have a pan of embers in the room, there being no chimneys.

Here are several squares, and about thirteen places of religious worship, namely, two convents, three monasteries, and eight churches, the greater part of which, as well as of the whole town, is built of earth. The mode of erecting the walls is as follows: a frame is constructed of six moveable planks placed edge-wise, opposite each other, and secured in this position by cross-pieces bolted with moveable pins. Earth is put in by small quantities, which the workmen beat with rammers and occasionally moisten with water to give it consistency. Having filled the frame or trough, they remove it and continue the same operation till the whole shell of the house is completed, taking care to leave vacancies and put in the window frames, door-frames, and beams as they proceed. The mass in course of time becomes indurated, the walls are pared perfectly smooth inside, and take any colour the owner chooses to give them; they are generally enriched with very ingenious devices. This species of structure is durable; I have seen some houses thus built that have lasted two hundred years, and most of them have several stories. The roofs are made to project two er three feet beyond the wall, in order to throw off the rain to a distance from the base; spouts might be a more effectual preservative against wet, but their use is little known here. They cover their houses with ̈· gutter

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gutter-tiles, but though the country affords excellent clay and plenty of wood, very few bricks are burnt.

The population of this place amounts to full fifteen thousand souls: perhaps nearer twenty thousand; the clergy, including all ranks of religious orders, may be reckoned at five hundred. They are in general good members of society, free from that excessive bigotry and illiberality which is the reproach of the neighbouring colonies; and their example has so beneficial an effect on the rest of the rest of the inhabitants, that I may presume to say, no stranger will be molested while he acts as a gentleman, and does not insult the established religion. His Excellency the Bishop is a most worthy prelate; and were the inferior or ders in his diocese to follow his steps in cultivating the sciences, and diffusing useful information, they would command greater respect from their flocks, and by that means further the interests of the religion they profess. Priests, so ignorant, can hardly escape contempt.

No endemial diseases at present prevail here. The small-pox formerly, and indeed of late, made great havock among the inhabitants, but its progress has been checked by the introduction of vaccine inoculation Professors attended at a large hall belonging to the governor, to which the public were invited, and the operation was performed gratis. It is to be hoped that the credit of this preventative will make its way among the people bere, for they are not competent to enter into the merits of that controversy which injured it in Europe.

Here' are few manufactures of any consequence; a little coarse cotton is spun by the hand, and woven into cloth, which serves for a variety of wearing apparel, sheets, &c. They make a beautiful kind of net-work for hammocks, which are fringed with lace, and form an elegant piece of furniture, being slung low, so as to answer the purpose of sofas. The ladies are par ticularly fond of using them; espe cially when the heat of the wea ther disposes them to ease and indolence. The making of lace is a general employment for females, some of whom excel in it. The shop-keepers here are a numerous class, who, as in most colonial towns, deal in almost every thing, and sometimes make great fortunes. Here are few doctors of medicine, but many apothecaries; some silversmiths, whose articles are equally indifferent both in me. tal and workmanship; tailors and shoe-makers in great numbers; and joiners, who manufacture very beautiful wood, but are not so mo derate in their charges as the for mer classes of tradesmen. In the out-skirts of the city live a num ber of Creolian Indians, who make earthen ware for culinary purposes, large water-jars, and a variety of other utensils ornamented with some taste. The greatest propor tion of the inhabitants consists in farmers and inferior husbandmen, who cultivate small portions of land, on which they breed larger stocks of pigs and poultry for sale. With these the market is generally well supplied, and in the frui season is also stored with pines, grapes, peaches, guavas, bananas, a few apples, and an enormous quantity of quinces.

Esculent

Esculent plants are grown in great profusion and variety. Here is a favorite bulbous root called the Cara, which is equal to the best potato, and even more farinaceous it grows to about five inches in diameter, and affords excellent food either boiled or roasted Here are fine cabbages, salad herbs, turnips, cauliflowers, artichokes, and potatos; the latter, though very good, are little used: the sweet potato is in greater request among the natives. Maize, beans, green peas, and every species of pulse flourish amazingly. Fowls are cheap; we bought some at threepence and sixpence each; small pigs from one to two shillings, and flitches of bacon, cured after the mode of the country, at about two-pence per pound. Turkies, geese, and ducks are abundant, and reasonable in price; the latter are of the Muscovy breed, enormously large, some weighing ten or fourteen pounds. Here is a singular breed of cocks; they resemble the common English in plumage and shape, but they crow very loud, and continue their last note for a minute or two, When their voice is good, they are much esteemed, and are sent for as curiosities from all parts of Brazil. The cattle are in general good, considering that so little attention is paid to feeding them; when their pastures are full of grass, they are tolerably fat, but when otherwise they become lean. A drove may be bought at 24s. or 30s. a head; beef at about a penny or three-halfpence per pound. The curriers have a singular method of blackening cow-hides and calfskins: when they have prepared them for that operation, they search for some mud-hole at: the bottom of a ferruginous stratum,

a ditch for instance; with the mud they cover that side of the skin required to be stained; and they prefer this material to the solution of copperas, probably with reason, as the sulphate of iron formed by the decomposed pyrites acts. more mildly in this state than when applied in the common way.

The horses are very fine, and in general docile; when well trained they make excellent chargers. Their size is from twelve and a half to fourteen hands and a half, and they vary in price from three pounds to twelve. Mules, as we have before observed, are consi. dered more useful beasts of burden; The breed of sheep is quite unat tended to, and mutton is rarely or never eaten. Here is a very fine and large breed of goats, whose milk is generally used for domestic purposes. The dogs are very iodifferent, and of no distinct race.

DESCRIPTION OF RIO DE JANEIRO.

From the same.

Rio De Janeiro has been so often described by former travellers, that, were I to confine myself to the supply of what they have omitted, or to the correction of their mis-statements, my task would.be speedily performed; but, as. I have uniformly chosen to write freely from my own observations rather than follow the track of others. I shall trespass on the reader with a more detailed account than he might perhaps require. It will, bowever, be recollected.sh the. period a which aisited, this.cas. pital being a political era in the annals of Brazil, is sufficiently, in teresting to excuse if not to justify me in the attempt to improve upotu descriptions

descriptions of an earlier date, though at the risk of a little repetition.

The finest view of the city is from the harbour, whence its lofty eminences crowned with convents, and the hills in its environs, interspersed with villas and gardens, have a rich and magnificent appearance. The royal palace skirts the beach, and is seen to great advantage from the principal landing'place, which is within sixty yards of its doors. This palace, though smell, is the residence of the Prince Regent and the royal family: the mint and the royal chapel form parts of the structure. Parallel with the beach runs the main street, consisting of noble buildings, called Rua de Dereito, from which the minor streets branch off at right angles, and are intersected by others at regular distances.

Some idea of the extent of the city may be formed from the population, which, including the negroes, (its most numerous portion,) is estimated at a hundred thousand souls: the dwellings are generally of one story only.

The numerous convents and churches are well built, and rather handsome; the cathedral, now nearly finished, is in a superior style of architecture. The streets were formerly incommoded by latticed balconies, which had a very heavy appearance and obstructed the circulation of the air, but they have been taken away by order of government. The greatest nuisances now remaining are those wich arise from the custom of persons of all ranks on horseback 'to ride on the foot-paths, and from the preposterous hanging of shop and house doors, which all open outward into the street, to the VOL. LIV.

great annoyance of foot-passengers: I may also add the frequent pools of stagnant water which, from the lowness of the site, cannot without much labour be drained away, and which, through the heat of the weather, emit the most putrid exhalations. Water for the use of the city flows from the hills through aqueducts, and is distributed to several fountains in various

public places. It is to be regretted

that there are not more of these for the supply of the inhabitants, numbers of whom live a mile distant from any of them, and are obliged to employ persons continually in carrying water: many of the poorer classes earn a living by selling it. The fountains in dry weather are frequently so crowded, that the carriers have to wait for hours before they can be supplied. The water is good, and, when kept in large jars, drinks cool and pleasant. The inns and public houses are almost destitute of accommodations, and so very uncomfortable that a stranger will not reside in them if he can find a friend to take him in. Houserent in general is equally high as in London, owing, it should seem, to the dearness of building materials and the high price of masonry. Timber in particular is unaccountably scarce, considering the quantity which grows in almost every part of Brazil; even fire-wood is dear. Provisions are in general plentiful, but not very choice in quality: the beef is very indifferent, and indeed bad; the pork is better, and, if the feeding were properly attended to, might be rendered fine; mutton is almost unknown, as the natives will not eat it; the poultry of every description are excellent, but they are very dear.

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Pulse

Pulse and vegetables of all kinds are very abundant, and the fishmarket is not ill supplied. Turtles are frequently caught, as well as a great variety of fish; here are abundance of very fine large prawns. The oysters and muscles, though not equal to ours, are very tolerable.

Owing to its low situation, and the general filthiness of its streets, Rio de Janeiro cannot be called healthful. Improvements are now making which will in part remedy these evils; but other causes tend to increase the insalubrity of the air, and to spread contagious distempers, the principal of which are the large importations of negroes from Africa, who commonly land in a sickly state, the consequence of close confinement during a hot voyage. It is much to be regretted that the city was not originally built on the plan of those in the Netherlands, with canals for brigs and small vessels, which might then have been unloaded at the doors of the warehouses: such an improvement would have also greatly tended to the cleanliness and salubrity of the

town.

The police is by no means ill regulated; and, from the attention which has been paid to it since the arrival of the court, there is every hope that it will be placed on a footing equally respectable with that of any European capital. The prisons are loathsome, and require the benevolent genius of a Howard to reform them altogether. One great step in favour of humanity has been gained: the inquisition has been abolished, and with it the spirit of persecution, so that no one can now be offended for his religious tenets, unless he

openly insult the established religion.

This city is the chief mart of Brazil, and especially of the provinces of Minas Geraes, St. Paul's, Goyazes, Cuyaba, and Corritiva. The mining districts, being most populous, require the greatest proportion of consumable goods, and in return send the most valuable articles of commerce, hence innumerable troops of mules are continually travelling to and from those districts; their common burden is about three cwt. each, which they carry to the almost incredible distance of 1500 or 2000 miles. Their homeward freight consists chiefly of salt for the consumption of the cattle, and iron for the working of the mines.

No colonial port in the world is so well situated for general commerce as Rio de Janeiro. It enjoys, beyond any other, an equal convenience of intercourse with Europe, America, Atrica, the East Indies, and the South Sea islands, and seems formed by nature as a grand link to connect the trade of those great portions of the globe. Commanding also, as the capital of a rich and extensive territory, resources of immense amount and value, it seemed to require only the presence of an efficient government to give it political importance, and this advantage it has now gained by becoming the chosen residence of the court of Portugal. The benefits resulting from this great event had but just begun to display themselves at the period to which this narrative refers, and the commercial relations of Rio de Janeiro, though considerably augmented, were still but in their germ. I shall proceed to state them according to the best in formation

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