their hinder parts were similarly hoisted by means of the tail which must have been nearly pulled out in the process. There was a moment of suspense, as the unhappy donkey hung wavering across the gunwale, but eventually all tumbled headlong in the right direction, and only too soon we were landed at the Sahil, or port of Keneh.

We found our tents at a place where the people come to draw water from the wide canal which here looks like the Nile itself. Overhead was one of the magnificent lebbek trees which Turks have made so rare in Egypt, and altogther the situation was well chosen and pleasant, if a little too low and near the water. When we asked why this spot had been chosen we were told that it formed the modest patrimony of our cook, who was a landed proprietor at Keneh, though only a cook at Cairo: and he had "personally conducted " our boys and baggage to the spot.

We were not all very fond of the cook, though he cooked well, but there was a little modest pride about him at Keneh which was by no means displeasing. When the inevitable governor came to dine with us we made him acquainted with the fact. He summoned the happy man into his presence, and addressed to him a complimentary speech, upon which our landlord struck an attitude and recited a verse just as they do in the Arabian Nights.

From this point on our journey governors and

other potentates were our lot and portion. They all told the same tale about the famine. At Keneh relief had been given to as many as 6,000 or more at a time, for some weeks, but in this district things had much improved: at least so said our informant, and we hoped it was true. We certainly did not see the same aspect of misery on the people's faces, and it was only to be expected that the further we got south the less we should see of famine. In this idea, as it turned out, we were wholly wrong. The famine was quite as bad a month later, and fifty miles further south, at Erment. It is impossible not to put two and two together, to argue post and propter, when we remember that the largest sugar factory above Farshoot is at Erment.

I

CHAPTER XVII.

GYPT.

Keneh Coptos-Copts-"Backsheesh Keteer"-The Ruins of Gypt -The Name of Egypt-A Lecture-Goos-Early to Bed-A Rembrandtesque Effect.

THERE was not much to delay us at Keneh. Few anteekas, and no sights are there, and the tent was struck at an early hour next morning. We were sorry to find that our road was to be all through the lowlands. It was, however, as we pushed on, so picturesque on both sides, and increased so fast in antiquarian and historical interest, that our day was very pleasantly spent, especially as neither at Gypt nor at Goos did we see more than the average amount of poverty to which the shortest stay in Egypt familiarises a traveller. There was a pretty garden on the left hand of our path for a long way, with orange-trees, and even a few rose-bushes. This passed,

Y

we descended to the river's edge, and stopped for a few minutes in a little town where the weekly market was being held. We bought a few bracelets and scarabs, and the Collector found a glass coin or weight, which pleased him very much. But the Antiquary was anxious to press on, as he feared the time allotted to Gypt would not be sufficient. The Collector, who knew this district well, reassured him on the point. He would find very little to delay him, notwithstanding the paramount historical importance of the place.

And so it proved. We stopped at Gypt for luncheon. It stands on the edge of a wide canal. We dismounted, after crossing an ancient bridge into which a tablet of Ptolemaic date is built, and entered the market-place. The “elders of Gypt” were sitting in a kind of covered recess in a wall facing the open place, smoking and chatting. Every second person we saw seemed to be, as was only appropriate, a Copt. We asked, as usual, for anteekas, but nothing was brought, beyond a few coins and scarabs, one of which, though it looked like a forgery, the Antiquary bought. It must, if a cast, have been cast from an older pattern, and was of interest as showing a Christian Tau cross, supported by serpents.

After luncheon, which was much impeded by the curiosity of inquisitive inhabitants, we set off to visit the ruins. The "Arab" who conducted us announced himself as a Christian. So did a boy who helped him

with his English. So did a beggar who followed in our train. In short, whether from interested motives or pride, from truth or falsehood, about two-thirds of the people we met or spoke to professed the same religion.

One of these Copts was very anxious to draw the Collector aside and show him some remarkable antiquities recently discovered. He was evidently afraid any one should know where they were. At last we arranged to separate. The Collector was to go. by himself with the Copt. His friends were to visit the ruins. But as he disappeared towards a suburban village, they perceived that half the crowd followed him. It was evident that this arrangement would not act, when a happy thought suddenly occurred to the Scot. He sat down on a wall and loudly proclaimed the immediate probability of a liberal distribution of backsheesh. Fortunately his pocket was well-lined with copper, and the first or second exhibition of a coin worth three-quarters of a farthing reduced the Collector's cortége to a couple of Copts.

The Antiquary and the Scot then proceeded, amid vehement demands for more backsheesh, to an inspection of the temple of Amen-Chem, or rather of the few granite blocks bearing the name of Thothmes III. which show its former situation, and the recently uncovered pillars which indicate the existence of a Christian church on the ancient site. Round the whole precinct were the remains of a lofty brick wall,