WANDERINGS

IN

NORTH AFRICA.

BY

JAMES HAMILTON.

LONDON:

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET.

1856.

203. b.146.

INTRODUCTION

CONTENTS.

PAGE

ix

CHAPTER I.

Malta to Benghazi.-Benghazi.-Aspect of the Town.-Popu

lation.-Diseases.-Government.-Antiquities.-Dress of the

Inhabitants.-Trade.-Artisans.-Jews

CHAPTER II.

. 1

Preparations for Departure from Benghazi.—Leave Benghazi.

-Arab Horses.-Ruins of Kasa Tawileh.-Labiar.-What

an Arab is.-Mode of Travelling.-Retinue.-Silphium.—

Tombs.-Cyrene .

CHAPTER III.

Grennah.-Arab Conversation.-Fountain of Cyre.-Ruins of

Cyrene.-Interrupted by Bedawin.-Ruins of a Theatre.-

Bas-reliefs. Inscriptions.- Terraces.- Temple of Escula-

pius.-Aqueduct.-Cyrene's History unknown.-Its Ruinous

18

state

CHAPTER IV.

33

Interview with the Bey.-Arab Feast.-The Bey's Hospitality 55

CHAPTER V.

Meditations at Sunrise.-Violation of the Tombs.-Descrip-

tion of the Tombs.-Allegorical Figures.-Splendid Tomb.

-Curious Tombs.-Lively Vale.-Unartistic Statues

CHAPTER VI.

Charming Scenery.-Arab Summer Dwellings.-Ruins of Apol-

lonia.-Ancient Granaries.-Chapels over Saints' Tombs.-

Abd-el-Kader's Warriors.-Temple of Bacchus

CHAPTER VII.

Grennah, a Charming Retreat-Pleasant Camping-ground.—

Rencontre with an Arab Saint-The Son of a Rich Prince.-

Striking Cures

PAGE

62

78

. 92

CHAPTER VIII.

An Arab "Vendetta."-Coquetry at the Wells.-A Bridal Pro-

cession.-The Okbah Pass

. 103

CHAPTER IX.

Improvidence of the Arabs.-Derna, its lively appearance.-

Ruined Battery.-Curious Bargain

CHAPTER X.

Convent Agriculture.—A Roman Stronghold.-Splendid Olive

Groves. Water runs short.-The Mirage.-Dine with the

Governor.-The Site of Ancient Barca.-Quit the Plain of

Merdj.

113

. 122

CHAPTER XI.

Tomb of a Ptolemy.-Unequal Taxation.-What a Wife costs.

-Ruins of Tolmeta.-Wall around Tancra.-Good State of

the Ruins. The Rains.-Arab Tents.-Return to Benghazi 138

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

What a Consul should be.-Turkish Oppression.-Official Cor-

ruption.-Universal Venality.-The Moslem hates the Chris-

vii

PAGE

tian

CHAPTER XIII.

. 154

Benghazi to Angila.-Corn Stores.-Cachettes.-Ruins near El-

Farsy.-Remarkable Fortress.-Horrors of the Slave Trade.

-England should forbid it.-Herds of Gazelles.-Bruce.-

Rě sam.-Oasis of Angila

CHAPTER XIV.

Angila and Jalo.-Group of Oases.-The Majabra Arabs.-The

Sultan of Waday.-Turkish Drunkards.-Inconveniences of

Travel .

165

. 187

CHAPTER XV.

The rival Sheikhs.-Weary Days at Angila.-Chain of Oases.

-Marriage Feasts.-Marriage Gifts

CHAPTER XVI.

Vexatious Delay.-Lose the Track.-Short commons in the

Desert.-Genuine Arab Hospitality.-En route for Siwah.-

Sand Valleys.-Scene of Desolation.-Signs of Volcanic

Action. Approach Siwah.-Sepulchral Caves.- Arrive at

Siwah

204

215

CHAPTER XVII.

Encampment at Siwah.-Conference with the Sheikhs.-Refuse

to quit Siwah.-Attack on the Tents.-Detained at Siwah.

-Incidents while imprisoned.-Defensive Preparations.-

A South Wind blows Good Luck.-Manners, &c., of the Peo-

ple. Their Appearance and Dress.-An Industrious Race . 237