tenances caught the sad and sombre expression. The column was put in motion at 6 o'clock, and an unusual degree of confusion was observable throughout. The order of march had been changed, and every one seemed to get into the wrong place and at the wrong time. All parties, however, finally found the positions assigned them. Three miles from the Ahura we crossed the Gachupina, a little stream which has its source in the mountains near it, bearing the same name, and at a distance of five or six miles farther the Piletos, flowing from the same range. Several miles to the right of the road, at the gorge through which the latter rivulet finds its way, there is a rancho of considerable importance devoted principally to the rearing of sheep and goats. After leaving the Piletos we met a party of traders, carrying their stock in carts, to each of which three or four pairs of oxen were attached. The freight consisted of peas, beans, rice and dry goods.

A Mexican cart, in rudeness and simplicity of construction, rivals perhaps any vehicle ever invented for transportation, since the Jewish spies "came unto the brook of Eshcol and cut down from thence a branch with one cluster of grapes and bare it between two upon a staff." The wheel is formed of five pieces. The nave or hub, is part of the centre slab, which is rounded at both ends to the curvature of the wheel. To the straight sides or edges of this piece, two other parts are added, and the circle completed by rounding the exterior edges. These three pieces are held together by two ties passing through them on opposite sides of the nave, and fastened by wooden pins. The box consists of two or three longitudinal bars placed upon the axle-tree, for the support of the floor, which, as well as the sides, is formed of hides, corn-stalks, sugar-cane, or any other material that of fers. The yoke and bows are not used with the oxen as with us, but a straight bar, with slight indentations on the lower side to conform to the head of the animal, and lashed to the horns by thongs of cowhide, is substituted therefor. This material also serves instead of a chain, to connect the yoke with the cart. Iron forms no part of the arrangement. And this vehicle, thus accoutred, serves all the purposes in Mexico of flat-boats, broad-horns, canal-boats, steamers, "Canestoga" wagons, rail cars and locomotives.

The Lampesis, about six miles from the Piletos, is more of a pool than a stream. The inhabitants, or rather the guides and travellers, represent the water as fatal to

animals, and an order was accordingly given that horses and mules must not be permitted to drink it. The water emits a strong sulphurous, fetid odor, and combines a styptic taste, with that of sulphur. Up to this stream, our route lay through an arid, sterile waste, and nearly parallel to a rampart of mountains formed by the Sierra Gachupina, whose sharp and rugged summits were veiled in clouds throughout the day. The prickly pear, the chaparro ceniza, the maguey, the chaparrol and the huisachi, have monopolized the soil. The latter plant is particularly remarkable for its very deep green, and its sharp and numerous thorns. After crossing the Lampesis, we entered upon a narrow valley, lying between heights of considerable elevation. The Lampesis chain starts from near the stream, and presents the columnar structure in great perfection; the Gachupina rises less precipitously than the former, and continues some ten or twelve miles farther, gradually and gracefully tapering, until it recedes to the level of the prairie. The head of the column reached this point, which had been selected for the encampment, about 3 o'clock; the infantry assigned as guard for the train, did not arrive until after sunset. The objection to this order of arrangements would be very obvious, if we had been traversing the country of an enterprising enemy, and the credit of the invention was perhaps due to

who, it was understood, at that time, controlled the details of the march. The train was of great length, and if attacked by cavalry-as it would have been if attacked at all-before the escort could reach the point assailed, irreparable damnage might have been effected. The artillery and dragoons were in advance; both corps comparatively helpless unless supported by infantry, and so far removed from each other as to be beyond the reach of effective co-operation. It was by a like faulty order of march, when encumbered with an unwieldy train, that Dupont was cut to pieces in the affair at Baylen, the only purely Spanish triumph in the Peninsular War.

The march was one of extraordinary length and corresponding fatigue. The road was thoroughly cut up by the horses and carriages in front, and the infantry were compelled to plod along in an atmosphere almost stifling, being so saturated with dust, and over hard gravel roads, forming blisters at almost every footfall. While thus coated with an impalpable powder, the rain began to fall, converting it into a beautiful paste, and when we

reached camp, each man presented a locomotive geological formation of rich alluvial. Wet, wearied, and worn down with a march of almost thirty miles, dragging themselves towards its close, with difficulty over the rocky soil, but few cared to pitch the tents necessary to protect them from the keen northern blasts which before dark began howling among the hills and sweeping over the encampment, or to cook the gracious supply of pork and beans, required to make the dry hard bread palatable, which are the tempting viands for a soldier's supper. The commanding general, in consideration of the day's march, generously relieved the infantry from guard for the night, and each man wrapped himself in his blanket to sleep as no one can sleep, except a volunteer on his first campaign.

We were encamped near an extensive hacienda, bearing the formidable title of "La Hacienda de nuestra Señora de Guadalupe de las Hermanas," occupied by a tenant of Señor Don Jacopo Sanchez Navarro, the landholder par excellence of the State of Coahuila, whose lordly possessions extend from this point to Saltillo.

The rain fell in fitful showers during the night, and the winds murmured a hoarse lullaby over the weary and sleeping soldiers. The unwelcome notes of the reveille, however, were not permitted to disturb their slumbers. until near the hour of sunrise-for, ocularly understood, the sun rose not. Dark and drizzling mists hung over the mountains; the heavens were dark, and overcast with clouds, and the scene sad and cheerless enough, when rendered visible by the dawn. To add to the general dissatisfaction and despondency, there was doubt throughout the camp as to what the day would bring forth. No one could tell whether we were to move or not. The commanding general himself, ever prompt and decisive, seemed now to waver, hesitate, resolve, and reconsider. At a late hour, it was observed that his guards were striking their tents; upon which every body concluded we were to march, and prepared accordingly. In the course of half an hour, succeeded another revolution in public sentiment: the guard tents were being pitched again. A suspension of operations followed, and to general activity, succeeded a general quandary, and many were inclined to think that the latter, for the time, had the command. Doubt was finally disposed of, by a circular from headquarters, to the effect that we should not march

before to-morrow. Having the day thus to ourselves, we were enabled to stroll about at our leisure, or as far as the murky atmosphere and general gloom would invite, or general orders would permit.

The "Hacienda of our Lady of Guadalupe of the Sisters," is, of course, the attractive feature of the place, excepting the sublime displays of nature by which it is surrounded. The approach to the house from the north, is through a stately avenue of willows, the branches of which intertwine, and form a natural arch of perpetual verdure. On the right of its termination, there is a fountain of crystal water, beautified with a similar cordon of willows; and to the left, stands the mansion itself, surrounded by and connected with a high stone wall, built for defence against the Indians. As we passed through the avenue, the scene might have been taken for a rehearsal of the days of Isaac and Rebecca. Women, in their light and simple costume, were engaged in washing; flocks of sheep and goats were drinking at the fountain; and beyond were the water carriers, with pitchers on their shoulders, and ready to address you, "Drink; and we will give your camels drink also." The house is spacious, and the walls of enormous thickness. The entrance is by the usual arched way to the interior court. The first object we saw here was a portable confessional box, which, on the arrival of the itinerant priest, is transferred to the several apartments, in order that their occupants may be Romaically relieved from the burden of their transgressions. room into which we were at once conducted by the polite proprietor, had more of the appearance of home comforts, than any thing we had yet seen in Mexico. We discovered that we had already been preceded by many, as curious and inquisitive as ourselves, who were ranged around the walls with the regularity of wax figures, on chairs having gilt backs and cane bottoms, and of undoubted American manufacture. The upper end of the apartment, where the (ground) floor was carpeted for a few feet in width, was distinguished with a mahogany sofa-a luxury for which we were altogether unprepared. The walls here were adorned by a small representation of the crucifixion; by two mirrors in gilt frames, intended for ornament rather than for use, being so high that they could not minister to any one's vanity, without the aid of ladders, and two figures of our lady of Guadalupe." Many scriptural pieces were hung round the room, among which

The

were the Return of the Prodigal Son, the Annunciation, Christ bearing the Cross, and the Resurrection. On all sides, the walls were rudely painted in panels to the height of three or four feet, and over these a fancy wreath of various and fantastic colors. A few volumes in French and Spanish were scattered upon a large round table, occupying the centre of the apartment. In the latter language, there was a handsome copy of De Tocqueville's Democracy in America, which appeared to have been well studied, and accounted in some degree, perhaps, for the just and liberal views entertained by the proprietor towards the United States, and the deep regret and despondency which he evinced on the subject of his own country.

Of Mexico he spoke with the feelings of a loyal son and devoted patriot. He lamented her falling fortunes in terms of touching eloquence, tracing her degeneracy to the corruption of the church, by whose established policy the people were kept ignorant and impoverished, and to the reckless ambition of military leaders, whose selfish ends kept the country torn and rent by factions, and who were ever ready to deluge the soil with the blood of her best and bravest citizens. In relation to his own country, his views appeared to be eminently enlightened and patriotic, and if the Mexican Republic had many such spirits, she might shake off the thraldom that now fetters her energies, rouse herself once more to high and chivalrous action, and array herself in the panoply of prosperity. But ambition, ignorance, superstition and priestcraftthe latter the direst incubus that ever cursed a commonwealth-must be demolished and swept away, before freedom can have her perfect way.

The hacienda derives part of its name from three hills in its immediate vicinity, called las hermanas, the sisters: an idea in the science of names not confined to the United States. One of these hills is surmounted by a cross conspicuously placed on the grave of a man murdered by the Lepan Indians, whose incursions are not limited by political or geographical boundaries. This establishment is one of seven belonging to the same estate, located at different points between the Salinos and Agua Nueva, on the other side of Saltillo. They are rented for a certain annual percentage of the products, along with the peons or slaves. This species of servitude we supposed was common over all Mexico, but we were here informed that it exists only in the States

of Tamaulipas, New Leon, and Coahuila. A citizen contracts a debt which he is unable to pay the creditor takes possession of his person; allows him a fixed sum for his services, but charges him with whatever he receives, either in food or clothing. A running account of debit and credit is thus opened; but the credits are usually so small compared with the debits, that time only widens the original difference between them; and the unfortunate debtor becomes a bondsman for ever. Odious and revolting as this system is, it is yet little more repugnant to the spirit of Christianity and enlightened civilization, than that relic of barbarism existing perhaps now in a few of the United States which assumes poverty to be a crime, by imprisonment for debt. But what is perhaps most marvellous in this matter, we are told that peonage exists only by prescription, and that there is no written law to give it countenance. It has grown, however, to such strength that individuals cannot resist it, and he who should attempt the overthrow of this system of iniquity, would be more likely to be crushed in the effort than to effect any amelioration. The government is too imbecile or too corrupt to attempt a reform, though the efforts of philanthropists have not been wanting to call it to the rescue of so many thousands from moral, physical and intellectual bondage.

The Hacienda de las Hermanas, as it is commonly called, has attached to it about one hundred and fifty families of peons. These are distributed or rather confined within the walls of the place, and sheltered from the weather only by the most comfortless huts, made of corn-stalks or sugar-cane. A whole family is thrust into an area too small for the sleeping apartment of a single individual; and there, in filth and wretchedness, in an atmosphere fetid and corrupt, subjected to associations and ideas the most monstrous and contaminating, children of both sexes are reared to maturity, and ripened for an inheritance of woe; and old men and women sink into the grave to make way for the successive groups that are impelled onward and downward by the same inexorable necessity. The annual products of the estate are between two and three thousand sheep and goats, about ten thousand bushels of corn, and a few thousand pounds of sugar. One third of the grain

raised is consumed at home. The market is Monclova. The present proprietor contemplates changing his crop from corn to cotton, which he thinks would prove more profitable. Of this there would seem to

be little doubt, as cotton goods are enormously high in the country, none of the raw material is imported, and the two factories are in successful operation at Saltillo, which would insure a ready market.

A "hasty" entertainment was given to the commanding general and a few officers who were with him, which passed off with mutual satisfaction. Instead of "a plate of soup," the first course consisted of rice made into a sort of pillau; then came a stew of beef, cabbage, beans and onions, which was followed by a roast kid; and to this succeeded another stew or hash of beef and cabbage: frijoles or beans, served up à la Mejicano, concluded the repast. The guests were hungry, and the various dishes are represented to have been "quite delicious," with the exception of one, which was rather too strongly tinctured with garlic.

One word should be given to the picturesque location of this establishment, though pen nor pencil can hardly do justice to its beauties. Three ranges of hills of bold and majestic outline, their venerable forms furrowed by time's unsparing ploughshare, and their tops pinnacled in the clouds, converge to this point, and within the valleys thus formed, the golden yellow of the ripe fields of corn is mingled with the deep green of the waving sugarcane; the plains are every where enlivened by flocks and herds; the water flows over its pebbled bed, murmuring gentle music, and when the sun is pavilioned in the heavens, bathing the mountain-tops in gorgeous light, the picture is complete; the loveliness of nature becomes a fit accompaniment to the embellishments of art, and the two combined form a perfect and faultless whole.

The head of the column was in motion at fifteen minutes before 7 o'clock the following morning, while the sun was yet hidden in the clouds, which hung dark and lowering over hill and valley. The march of a few minutes brought us to a hot spring, which supplies the irrigating canals hereabouts. It comes out of the rock of a temperature of 110° Fahrenheit; the basin is five or six feet deep, and probably fifteen feet in diameter. The water is clear, and the supply never failing. A high stone wall, inclosing an area of half an acre, surrounds the spring, to which access was had in one case by climbing. A short distance ahead, we observed another illustration of the insecurity of life here, in a cross planted over a grave for the benefit of the departed soul, sent by a murderer's hand into the

world of spirits, without time for confession and extreme unction.

The Arroyo del Carmel is about three miles from the hacienda, where we were detained about an hour, while the pioneers were repairing the bridge-a labor which might have been performed yesterday, but was not, because the existence of the stream was not known. About a mile from this stream we passed a forlorn group of six buildings, the most of them in ruins, which once constituted the lordly hacienda de Tapado. The chapel still remains in tolerable repair, but the other structures are crumbling away under the destroying influences of the elements. One of these now roofless buildings forms a large rectangular area, within which the vegetable peon dwellings are pitched against the walls. The place is occupied at present only by peons, whose squalid wretchedness was very apparent, even in the brief period to which our visit was limited. A quarter of a mile beyond these ruins, we struck the Salado, a small stream flowing between high banks, of which the arroyo del Carmel is an affluent. The road continues nearly parallel to the Salado for several miles, traversing corn-fields extending over hundreds of

acres.

The hacienda "las Ajuntas" is about nine miles from that of "las Hermanas," and was originally a more extensive establishment than the latter. The buildings are now out of repair, but were never compactly arranged, nor constructed with a view to defence. The huts of the peons present somewhat the appearance of the slave quarters along the Mississippi River; though the residence of the black is usually a palace compared with that of the Mexican bondman. As we passed, the men were ranged on both sides of the road, gazing upon us with that vacant, stupid curiosity, which results from their purely animal existence. The women were scattered about in groups; their shoulders bare, their long black hair falling loosely around them, their rebozos reaching below the waist, and mingling their colors with the folds of their petticoats. Children naked and half clothed were hanging upon the mother's breast, playing in the dirt with the dogs and pigs, or staring in fixed wonderment at the crowd of strangers. One man more enterprising than the other, had established a cake shop for the occasion, but the baking was found very inferior, and there was consequently little patronage. There must have been at least eight hundred souls connected with this establishment,

all reared in ignorance and oppression; robbed of their rights, civil and religious, and rendered by birth, habits, and association fit supporters of a military oligarchy, and fit ministers to the unbridled passions and cruel extortions of a corrupt priesthood.

We encamped about 11 o'clock, half a mile from the hacienda, and as our tents were whitening the plain, the sun emerged from the curtain of vapor which had hidden him for a day or two, and gave token of a fair afternoon. The rain was over, though the whole country this side of the Nueces had the appearance of a long continued drought. The roads were generally ground into powder to the depth of several inches, and the earth on either side, baked to the hardness of brick, presented frequent fissures, broad and deep, the effect of long intense heat without rains.

An order given to Colonel Harden (officer of the day) to station a guard over the hacienda las Ajuntas, or "it would be plundered," created a very considerable flare-up in certain quarters of the camp, and led to a long, and some say, stormy interview between the Colonel,

and the latter of whom appeared as a sort of diplomatist. Our Celtic Alcibiades, it appears from the result, was partially successful in his efforts. It was rumored at one time that the and officers were all to resign, but this determination was subsequently changed.

The skyey influences were not flattering as we left camp about 6 o'clock the next morning. The evening before had given promise of a fair day, but near midnight the winds came sweeping down from the mountains, and the clouds seemed to follow in their wake. Hill and valley were alike overspread with mist and vapor. For ten miles we passed over a sandy road, the dust filling eyes, nose and mouth, and almost stifling and blinding the unfortunates on foot who had to tread it. Very little grass was any where to be seen. The growth of small plants was prolific, and several new varieties of the cactus were observed skirting the road. One of these spreads into a tree twelve or fifteen feet high, with proportional branches. Nearly all the members of the cactus family and their name is legion are found in this vicinity. We also noticed a singular shrub, six or eight feet in height, with innumerable branches springing from the root; these are of ash or dun color, bear a small yellow flower, but are wholly without foliage. The

branches are as bare of leaves as a rose tree in December. Two miles from the last camp we passed a rancho occupied by a few families, living in the same miserable condition as the peons of the haciendas. Their dwellings were corn-stalk huts with thatched roofs, not high enough to stand erect in, nor long enough to permit the occupant to lie at full length. High stone walls forming an inclosure, and apparently intended for the residence of their master, added to the desolation of the scene. From this point the next house was distant about nine miles, and near this place the mud walls of Monclova first revealed themselves, rising indistinctly against the dark background of the mountains. We halted four miles from the city, and encamped between two cotton fields-hundreds of acres of corn surrounding us on all sides.

Several citizens of Monclova, headed by Señor Don Lobo, political chief of the department, and author of the protest received a few days since, came into camp in the afternoon with a written paper, differing somewhat in style and purport from the preceding document, concluding it is said, with an offer of the hospitalities of the city to the Commanding General. It might have been civil, perhaps, under the circumstances, to extend the invitation; they were however received with due courtesy, and after an exchange of the usual commonplaces on such occasions, the delegation returned to town. The Señor "Gefe Politico," is a large, grave-looking gentleman, somewhat portly, double-chinned, and as a whole, would make a formidable candidate for alderman in any of our cities. He and his associates were dressed in round jacketsthe invariable riding or diplomatic costume of Mexico-and of course made no very imposing appearance in presence of the glittering cortège which surrounded the commanding general, among whom

with his new coat and bright buttons, was not least conspicuous.

It was reported in camp that an express from General Taylor, which left Monterey on the 26th, had arrived, with the information that the Navy had possession of all parts of California, [is_California a lake, river, or inland sea?] and that General Kearney would occupy Santa Fe during the winter. General T. expected to hear from Washington touching the armistice by the 5th proximo, and advised that in the mean time no movement be made south of Monclova.

A parade before the Commanding General's tent of the two squadrons of dra