ACCOUNT OF THE RUINED CITIES OF YUCATAN. In a foregoing Supplement, at page 33, of the present volume, we commenced a description of the mysterious ruins of Yucatan. We now propose to follow Mr. Stevens, the traveller who has so ably investigated the condition and origin of these remains, to the completion of his last expedition. The reader will remember that we introduced the subject to him, first, with an outline of the discovery of the country by the Spaniards in the sixteenth century. We next collected what particulars are known concerning the modern Mayas, or Indian inhabitants of the peninsula of Yucatan, and, after briefly sketching the five principal cities, Merida, Campeachy, Valladolid, Izamal, and Tekax, we proceeded from these points to explore the ruins of Mayapan, Uxmal, Zayi, Ticul, Kabah, Zabnà, and Labphak. We propose, now, to leave Valladolid nine miles behind us to the eastward, and pay a visit to the Ruins of Chichen. The first settlement of the Spaniards in the interior of Yucatan was made at Chichen, or Chichen-Itza, as it was called, from the name of the people who then occupied the district. It was here that Don Francisco Montejo, commander of the third expedition, made a fatal mistake; lured by the glitter of gold in another province, he divided his forces, and sent one of his best captains with fifty men in search of it. From that time calamities and dangers pressed upon him; altercations and contests began with the Indians; provisions were withheld, and all that they ate was procured at the price of blood. At length, the Indians determined upon their utter destruction. Immense multitudes surrounded the camp of the Spaniards, hemming them in on all sides. The latter, seeing themselves reduced to the necessity of perishing by hunger, determined to die bravely in the field, and went out to give battle. The most sanguinary fight they had ever been engaged in then took place. The Spaniards fought for their lives, and the Indians to remain masters of their own soil. Masses of the latter were killed, but great slaughter was made among the Spaniards, and, to save the lives of those who remained, Don Francisco retreated to the fortifications. Unable to hold out there, the Europeans took advantage of a night when the Indians were off their guard; they tied a dog to a bell, putting some food before him, but out of his reach, and then, with great silence, they marched out from the camp. The dog, when he saw them going, pulled the cord in order to go with them, and afterwards to get at the food. The Indians, supposing that the Spaniards were sounding the alarm, remained quiet, waiting the result, but a little before daylight, perceiving that the bell did not cease ringing, drew near the fortification and found it deserted. In the meantime, the Spaniards escaped towards the coast, and in the meagre and disconnected accounts of their dangers, it is, perhaps, not surprising that we have none whatever of the buildings, arts, and sciences, of the fierce inhabitants of Chichen. THE MONJAS OF CHICHEN. The Monjas, or House of the Nuns, is conspicuous among the ruins of Chichen-Itza. It is remarkable for its good state of preservation, and the richness and beauty of its ornaments. The engraving at the beginning of this paper will convey some idea of the florid architecture of the American Indian. On the right hand is represented the corner of a building called the Eglesia, or Church. The height of the noble façade which is represented in the body of the wood-engraving is 25 feet, and its width 35 feet. It has two cornices of tasteful and elaborate design. Over the doorway are twenty small compartments of hieroglyphics in four rows, five in a row, and to make room for which the lower cornice is carried up. Over these stand out in a line six bold projecting curved ornaments, as at Uxmal, resembling elephants' trunks. In the central space over the doorway is an irregular circular niche in which portions of a seated figure with a head-dress of feathers, still remains. The tropical plants and shrubs growing on the roof hang over the cornice like a fringe-work, and add greatly to the picturesque effect of this elegant façade. The whole building is composed of two structures entirely different from each other, one of which form wing to the principal edifice, and has, at the end, the faç above described. The whole length is 228 feet, and depth of the principal structure is 112 feet. The portion containing interior chambers is that which Stevens calls the wing. The great structure adjoining the wing is apparently a solid mass of masonry, erected to hold up the two ranges of buildings upon it. A gi staircase 56 feet wide rises to the top. On one side of staircase a huge breach, 20 or 30 feet deep, has been n by the proprietor, for the purpose of getting out build stone; this discloses only solid masonry. The grand s case is 32 feet high, and has thirty-nine steps. On the of the structure stands a range of buildings, with a plat of 14 feet in front." "From the back of this platform the grand staircase again fifteen steps to the roof of the second range, w forms a platform in front of the third range; this la unfortunately, in a ruined condition, and it is to be obse that in this, as in all other cases, these ancient archi never placed an upper building on the roof of a lower but always carried it back, so as to rest it on a stru solid from the ground, the roof of the lower range merely a platform in front of the upper one. "The circumference of this building is 638 feet, an height, when entire, was 65 feet. It seems to have constructed only with reference to the second rang apartments, upon which the art and skill of the bui have been lavishly expended. It is 104 feet long, an feet wide, and the broad platform around it, although grown with grass several feet high, formed a noble pr nade, commanding a magnificent view of the surrou country. "Detached portions of human figures continually among these remains which are well drawn, the 1 adorned with plumes of feathers, and the hands be shields and spears.” THE CARACOL OF CHICHEn. Northward from the Monjas of Chichen stands amon ruins an object conspicuous for its picturesque appear and unlike any other Mr. Stevens had seen in this cou except one at Mayapan much ruined. It is circul form, and is known by the name of the Caracol, or wi staircase, on account of its interior arrangements. It s on the upper of two terraces. The lower one measur front from north to south 223 feet, and in depth fron to west 150 feet, and is still in good preservation. A staircase 45 feet wide, and containing twenty steps, r the platform of this terrace. On each side of this stai forming a sort of balustrade, were the entwined bod two gigantic serpents, 3 feet wide, portions of whic still in place; and among the ruins of the staircase gigantic head which had terminated on one side the f the steps. I The platform of the second terrace is reached by an staircase 42 feet wide. In the centre of this stand building, which has four small doorways facing the ca points. The height, including the terraces, is little sh 60 feet, and, when entire, even among the great bui around, this structure must have presented a st appearance. The doorways give entrance to a ci corridor 5 feet wide. The inner wall has also four ways, smaller than the others, and standing at intern. points of the compass, facing north-east, north-west, south second circular corridor, 4 feet wide, and in the centre is a These doors give entrance to a circular mass apparently of solid stone; but at one place, at the height of 8 feet from the ground, small square opening choked up with stones. The walls of west, and south-east. was observed a P 157 both corridors are plastered and ornamented with paintings. The plan of the building was new, but, instead of unfolding secrets, it drew closer the curtain that already shrouded, with most impenetrable folds, these mysterious structures. THE GYMNASIUM. Among the ruins of Chichen-Itza is to be seen the following extraordinary edifice; namely, two immense parallel walls, each 274 feet long, 30 feet thick, and 120 feet apart. One hundred feet from the northern extremity, facing the open space between the walls, stands on an elevation a building 35 feet long, containing a single chamher, with the front fallen, and, rising among the rubbish, the remains of two columns, elaborately ornamented with sculpture. The whole interior wall is covered from the the same object as the Tennis-court in the city of Mexico, as thus described by Herrera. The temples are at hand in which sacrifices were offered, and we discover in this, something more important than the mere determining of the character of a building; for in the similarity of diversions we see a resemblance in manners and institutions, and trace an affinity between the people who erected the ruined cities of Yucatan, and those who inhabited Mexico at the time of the conquest. SCULPTURES AND PAINTINGS. At the southern extremity of the eastern wall of the Gymnasium of Chichen are the remains of two ranges of building, one of which is in a state of good preservation, simple and tasteful in its arrangement of ornaments. Under unnar aories ptured a procession of tigers or osition, with trees growing around et is beautifully picturesque; but, it may be considered one of the s in Yucatan. an NEW WORK In Weekly Numbers (Price Id.), and Monthly Parts (6d.) On Saturday, the 24th of February, will be published, No. 1, of a new Historical Romance, of great interest, entitled, Fair Rosamond. BY THE Author of "Robin Hood," "Quintin Matsys," &c. &c. The work will be printed on a fine paper, uniform in size with "Robin Hood," and "Wat Tyler," and will embody many incidents connected with that eventful period of English History---the reign of King Henry II. (collected from archives in the British Museum) never before published. With the first number will be given an Etching on Steel, by the Author. LONDON: Published by W. W. BARTH, 4, Brydges Street, Strand; With some slight variation in detail, the general features are so identical as to leave no doubt on the mind that the so-called Gymnasium of Chichen was erected for precisely * Undoubtedly caoutchouc, or India-rubber. the most ruinous condition concovered with sculptured figures. n, and exposed the interior of a end to the other with elaborately relief. Exposed for ages to a long rains, the characters were faded ss of the human figures is, as usual country, a plume of feathers, and son carries a bundle of spears, or a hese representations were painted. lding, of the two above-mentioned, he considers the greatest gem of net with during his investigations. s of access to this structure, were y reached by clambering over proThe door opens upon the platform ooks the Tennis-court, or Gymnar was supported by massive pillars, main covered with elaborate sculpintel of the inner doorway is richly ner chamber, its walls and ceiling from the floor to the peak of the ainting, representing, in brilliant battles, houses, trees, and scenes of pot was the conspicuous drawing of hole is much disfigured. In some oken off: while in others wilful een done to these remains. The >w, red, blue, and a reddish-brown, the colour given to human flesh. eedom of drawing which could only line and training under masters. er interest than any that attaches to of art; for among them are seen ch_call forcibly to mind the wellof the Mexicans; and if these by future observations, this building f the Tennis-court stands an unimhe people who inhabited Mexico, at st, belonged to the same great race ilders of the ruined cities in Yuca es a little southward of Zabnà, Mr. curious painting of a rude human ieroglyphics, which doubtless con-. ory. The colours were bright; red 3. The painting covered the whole h, however, occupied a very obscure The apartment in which it was distinguish it from others, and why was so adorned our traveller was early every other house at Kewick ng ornamented façade lay on the oubled up, as if shaken off by the quake, and still struggling to retain he whole presenting a most pictucene of ruins, and conveying to the the besom of destruction sweeping Xul, which place is not far northeast of Kewick, that had been plastered and covered inside with painted figures in profile. These are now much mutilated, but the remaining traces remind one of the funeral processions on the walls of the tombs at Thebes, in Egypt. This arch had once formed the sides and walls of a 748-2 ACCOUNT OF THE RUINED CITIES OF YUCATAN. In a foregoing Supplement, at page 33, of the present volume, we commenced a description of the mysterious ruins of Yucatan. We now propose to follow Mr. Stevens, the traveller who has so ably investigated the condition and origin of these remains, to the completion of his last expedition. The reader will remember that we introduced the subject to him, first, with an outline of the discovery of the country by the Spaniards in the sixteenth century. We next collected what particulars are known concerning the modern Mayas, or Indian inhabitants of the peninsula of Yucatan, and, after briefly sketching the five principal cities, Merida, Campeachy, Valladolid, Izamal, and Tekax, we proceeded from these points to explore the ruins of Mayapan, Uxmal, Zayi, Ticul, Kabah, Zabnà, and Labphak. We propose, now, to leave Valladolid nine miles behind us to the eastward, and pay a visit to the Ruins of Chichen. The first settlement of the Spaniards in the interior of Yucatan was made at Chichen, or Chichen-Itza, as it was called, from the name of the people who then occupied the district. It was here that Don Francisco Montejo, commander of the third expedition, made a fatal mistake; lured by the glitter of gold in another province, he divided his forces, and sent one of his best captains with fifty men in search of it. From that time calamities and dangers pressed upon him; altercations and contests began with the Indians; provisions were withheld, and all that they ate was procured at the price of blood. At length, the Indians determined upon their utter destruction. Immense multitudes surrounded the camp of the Spaniards, hemming them in on all sides. The latter, seeing themselves reduced to the necessity of perishing by hunger, determined to die bravely in the field, and went out to give battle. The most sanguinary fight they had ever been engaged in then took place. The Spaniards fought for their lives, and the Indians to remain masters of their own soil. Masses of the latter were killed, but great slaughter was made among the Spaniards, and, to save the lives of those who remained, Don Francisco retreated to the fortifications. the lower cornice is carried up. Over these stand out in a line six bold projecting curved ornaments, as at Uxmal, resembling elephants' trunks. In the central space over the doorway is an irregular circular niche in which portions of a seated figure with a head-dress of feathers, still remains. The tropical plants and shrubs growing on the roof hang over the cornice like a fringe-work, and add greatly to the picturesque effect of this elegant façade. "The whole building is composed of two structures entirely different from each other, one of which forms a wing to the principal edifice, and has, at the end, the façade above described. The whole length is 228 feet, and the depth of the principal structure is 112 feet. The only portion containing interior chambers is that which Mr. Stevens calls the wing. The great structure adjoining to the wing is apparently a solid mass of masonry, erected only to hold up the two ranges of buildings upon it. A grand staircase 56 feet wide rises to the top. On one side of the staircase a huge breach, 20 or 30 feet deep, has been made by the proprietor, for the purpose of getting out buildingstone; this discloses only solid masonry. The grand staircase is 32 feet high, and has thirty-nine steps. On the top of the structure stands a range of buildings, with a platform of 14 feet in front." "From the back of this platform the grand staircase rises again fifteen steps to the roof of the second range, which forms a platform in front of the third range; this last is, unfortunately, in a ruined condition, and it is to be observed that in this, as in all other cases, these ancient architects never placed an upper building on the roof of a lower one, but always carried it back, so as to rest it on a structure solid from the ground, the roof of the lower range being merely a platform in front of the upper one. "The circumference of this building is 638 feet, and its height, when entire, was 65 feet. It seems to have been constructed only with reference to the second range of apartments, upon which the art and skill of the builders have been lavishly expended. It is 104 feet long, and 30! feet wide, and the broad platform around it, although over grown with grass several feet high, formed a noble prome nade, commanding a magnificent view of the surrounding country. "Detached portions of human figures continually occur among these remains which are well drawn, the heads adorned with plumes of feathers, and the hands bearing shields and spears." THE CARACOL OF CHICHEN. Northward from the Monjas of Chichen stands among the ruins an object conspicuous for its picturesque appearance, Unable to hold out there, the Europeans took advantage and unlike any other Mr. Stevens had seen in this country, of a night when the Indians were off their guard; they tied except one at Mayapan much ruined. It is circular in a dog to a bell, putting some food before him, but out of his form, and is known by the name of the Caracol, or winding reach, and then, with great silence, they marched out from staircase, on account of its interior arrangements. It stands the camp. The dog, when he saw them going, pulled the on the upper of two terraces. The lower one measures in cord in order to go with them, and afterwards to get at the front from north to south 223 feet, and in depth from east food. The Indians, supposing that the Spaniards were to west 150 feet, and is still in good preservation. A grand sounding the alarm, remained quiet, waiting the result, but staircase 45 feet wide, and containing twenty steps, rises to a little before daylight, perceiving that the bell did not cease the platform of this terrace. On each side of this staircase, ringing, drew near the fortification and found it deserted. forming a sort of balustrade, were the entwined bodies of In the meantime, the Spaniards escaped towards the coast, two gigantic serpents, 3 feet wide, portions of which are and in the meagre and disconnected accounts of their dan- still in place; and among the ruins of the staircase was a gers, it is, perhaps, not surprising that we have none what-gigantic head which had terminated on one side the foot of ever of the buildings, arts, and sciences, of the fierce inhabitants of Chichen. THE MONJAS OF CHICHEN. The Monjas, or House of the Nuns, is conspicuous among the ruins of Chichen-Itza. It is remarkable for its good state of preservation, and the richness and beauty of its ornaments. The engraving at the beginning of this paper will convey some idea of the florid architecture of the American Indian. On the right hand is represented the corner of a building called the Eglesia, or Church. The height of the noble façade which is represented in the body of the wood-engraving is 25 feet, and its width 35 feet. It has two cornices of tasteful and elaborate design. Over the doorway are twenty small compartments of hieroglyphics in four rows, five in a row, and to make room for which the steps. The platform of the second terrace is reached by another staircase 42 feet wide. In the centre of this stands the building, which has four small doorways facing the cardinal points. The height, including the terraces, is little short of 60 feet, and, when entire, even among the great buildings around, this structure must have presented a striking appearance. corridor 5 feet wide. The inner wall has also four doorThe doorways give entrance to a circular ways, smaller than the others, and standing at intermediate points of the compass, facing north-east, north-west, southwest, and south-east. second circular corridor, 4 feet wide, and in the centre is a These doors give entrance to a circular mass apparently of solid stone; but at one place, at the height of 8 feet from the ground, small square opening choked up with stones. The walls of was observed a the same object as the Tennis-court in the city of Mexico, as thus described by Herrera. The temples are at hand in which sacrifices were offered, and we discover in this, something more important than the mere determining of the character of building; for in the similarity of diversions we see a resemblance in manners and institutions, and trace an affinity between the people who erected the ruined cities of Yucatan, and those who inhabited Mexico at the SCULPTURES AND PAINTINGS. Among the ruins of Chichen-Itza is to be seen the following extraordinary edifice; namely, two immense paral-time of the conquest. lel walls, each 274 feet long, 30 feet thick, and 120 feet apart. One hundred feet from the northern extremity, facing the open space between the walls, stands on an elevation a building 35 feet long, containing a single chamher, with the front fallen, and, rising among the rubbish, the remains of two columns, elaborately ornamented with sculpture. The whole interior wall is covered from the floor to the peak of the arch with sculptured figures in basrelief, much worn and faded. In the centre of the great stone walls, exactly opposite each other, and at the height of 20 feet from the ground, are two massive stone rings, 4 feet in diameter, and 1 foot 1 inch thick; the diameter of the hole is 1 foot 7 inches. On the rim and border were two sculptured entwined serpents. The parallel structures supporting the rings were probably intended for the celebration of some public games. The following account of the diversions of Montezuma, (the Emperor of Mexico at the time of its conquest,) is given by Herrera, and illustrates these remains. "The king took much delight in seeing sport at ball, which the Spaniards have since prohibited, because of the mischief that often happened at it, and was by them called Tlachtli, being like our tennis. The ball was made of the guin of a tree that grows in hot countries, which, having holes made in it, distils great drops, that soon harden, and being worked and moulded together, turn as black as pitch*. The balls made thereof, tho' hard and heavy to the hand, did bound and fly as well as our foot-balls; nor did they use chases, but vy'd to drive the adverse party that is to hit the wall, the others were to make good, or strike it over. They struck it with any part of their body, as it hapned, or they could most conveniently; and sometimes he lost that touched it with any other part but his hip, which was looked upon among them as the greatest dexterity; and to this effect, that the ball might rebound the better, they fastned a piece of stiff leather on their hips. They play'd in parties, so many on a side, for a load of mantles, or what the gamesters could afford, at so many scores. They also play'd for gold, and feather-work, and sometimes play'd themselves away, as has been said before. The place where they play'd was a ground-room, long, narrow, and high, but wider above than below, and higher on the sides than at the ends, and they kept it very well plaster'd and smooth, both the walls and the floor. On the side walls they fix'd certain stones, like those of a mill, with a hole quite through the middle, just as big as the ball, and he that could strike it through there won the game. And in token of its being an extraordinary success, which rarely hapned, he had a right to the cloaks of all the lookers-on, by ancient custom, and law amongst gamesters; and it was very pleasant to see, that as soon as ever the ball was in the hole, the standersby took to their heels, running away with all their might to save their cloaks, laughing and rejoicing, others scouring after them to secure their cloaks for the winner, who was oblig'd to offer some sacrifice to the Idol of the Tennis court, and the stone through whose hole the ball had pass'd. Every tennis-court was a Temple, having two Idols, the one of Gaming, and the other of the ball. On a lucky day, at midnight, they perform'd certain ceremonies and enchantments on the two inner walls, and on the midst of the floor, singing certain songs, or ballads; after which a priest of the great temple went with some of the religious men to bless it; he uttered some words, threw the ball about the tenniscourt four times, and then it was consecrated, and might be play'd in, but not before. The owner of the tennis court, who was always a lord, never play'd without making some offering and performing certain ceremonies to the idol of gaming, which shows how superstitious they were, since they had such regard to their idols, even in their diversions. Montezuma carry'd the Spaniards to this sport, and was well pleas'd to see them play at it, as also at cards and dice." With some slight variation in detail, the general features are so identical as to leave no doubt on the mind that the 80-called Gymnasium of Chichen was erected for precisely * Undoubtedly caoutchouc, or India-rubber. At the southern extremity of the eastern wall of the Gymnasium of Chichen are the remains of two ranges of building, one of which is in a state of good preservation, simple and tasteful in its arrangement of ornaments. Under lynxes. From its lofty position, with trees growing around an upper cornice is sculptured a procession of tigers or it and on the roof, the effect is beautifully picturesque; but, upon other considerations, it may be considered one of the most interesting structures in Yucatan. The range which is in the most ruinous condition contains two broken columns covered with sculptured figures. The front wall had fallen, and exposed the interior of a chamber covered from one end to the other with elaborately sculptured figures in bas-relief. Exposed for ages to a long succession of winds and rains, the characters were faded and worn. The head-dress of the human figures is, as usual amongst the ruins of the country, a plume of feathers, and in the upper row each person carries a bundle of spears, or a quiver of arrows. All these representations were painted. In the most perfect building, of the two above-mentioned, Mr. Stevens found what he considers the greatest gem of aboriginal art that he met with during his investigations. The steps, or other means of access to this structure, were destroyed, and it was only reached by clambering over promiscuous heaps of ruins. The door opens upon the platform of the wall which overlooks the Tennis-court, or Gymnasium. The front corridor was supported by massive pillars, tured ornaments. The lintel of the inner doorway is richly portions of which still remain covered with elaborate sculpcarved. Entering an inner chamber, its walls and ceiling are found to be covered, from the floor to the peak of the arch with designs in painting, representing, in brilliant colours, human figures, battles, houses, trees, and scenes of domestic life. On one spot was the conspicuous drawing of a large canoe, but the whole is much disfigured. In some places the plaster is broken off: while in others wilful injury had evidently been done to these remains. The colours were green, yellow, red, blue, and a reddish-brown, the last being invariably the colour given to human flesh. The outlines exhibit a freedom of drawing which could only be the result of discipline and training under masters. "But they have a higher interest than any that attaches to them as mere specimens of art; for among them are seen designs and figures which call forcibly to mind the wellknown picture-writings of the Mexicans; and if these analogies are sustained by future observations, this building attached to the walls of the Tennis-court stands an unimpeachable witness that the people who inhabited Mexico, at the time of the conquest, belonged to the same great race which furnished the builders of the ruined cities in Yucatan."-Stevens. At Kewick, which lies a little southward of Zabnà, Mr. Stevens had observed a curious painting of a rude human figure surrounded by hieroglyphics, which doubtless contain the whole of its story. The colours were bright; red and green predominating. The painting covered the whole surface of a stone, which, however, occupied a very obscure corner of a building. The apartment in which it was found had nothing to distinguish it from others, and why this particular stone was so adorned our traveller was unable to discover. Nearly every other house at Kewick had fallen. "One long ornamented façade lay on the ground cracked and doubled up, as if shaken off by the vibrations of an earthquake, and still struggling to retain its upright position, the whole presenting a most picturesque and imposing scene of ruins, and conveying to the mind a strong image of the besom of destruction sweeping over a city." There is an arch near Xul, which place is not far northeast of Kewick, that had been plastered and covered inside with painted figures in profile. These are now much mutilated, but the remaining traces remind one of the funeral processions on the walls of the tombs at Thebes, in Egypt. This arch had once formed the sides and walls of a |