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services of Romieu by the grant of the town of Vence, and other possessions. A considerable portion of the exterior of the church is highly decorated in the florid gothic style. An octagon tower, the most ancient part of the building, is of plain and simple architecture, more remarkable for solidity than for beauty.

19th.-Delivered our letters of introduction to the Marquis de L. and to M. Revoil, which brought us both these gentlemen shortly after, with polite offers of enacting the parts of ciceroni to us during our sojourn here.

There are no less than seven private collections of objects of art and antiquity at Aix, each and all worthy of attention; but M. Revoil's is the most perfect of its kind. It embraces pictures and enamels by the earliest masters, with those of a late date; forming a series illustrative of the history of the progress of the two arts. Among the enamels, we noticed the portrait of Dianne de Poitiers, with a child. They are drawn as Venus and Cupid, and nothing can be more graceful or happily portrayed. It would be tedious to enumerate even a quarter of

the treasures in this collection; in which are comprised ancient armour, chased and ornamented, warlike implements of every description, armoires of finely carved ebony, filled with all the paraphernalia of female toilets of early date; mirrors of polished steel, pins, combs, rings, and costly ornaments; vases, enriched with antique gems, small busts of onyx, sardonyx, and white cornelian, set with precious stones; daggers mounted, with carved handles of ivory, mother-of-pearl, steel, amber, silver and gold, many of them with jewelled settings; watches of every age; keys of every description; and, in short, every object of art and taste, from the grand to the minute, that could serve as specimens of the articles used in the past ages. All the things are so well classed and arranged, that they serve to form a sort of history of each century, by displaying the objects of use and luxury, and marking the progressive improvement made in them.

M. Revoil is considered one of the best modern French painters, and at Paris his pictures are eagerly sought, and liberally purchased, by the most fastidious connoisseurs. On looking at his collection, one is surprised that so extensive and

choice a one could have been brought together in the life of one individual, or by a person whose wealth was not very great; but it is a proof of what industry, indefatigable zeal, and good taste, can accomplish, when they are combined. The fifteenth century was, indeed, an epoch rich in art; and the beautiful specimens of it here assembled impress the beholder with an increased veneration for the worthies of that period, and the artists who wrought for them.

20th.-M. Revoil accompanied us in our peregrinations to-day, and it would have been impossible to have found a more enlightened or erudite cicerone. He has studied Aix and the different treasures it contains con amore, and explains them with a precision that leaves nothing to be desired. Our first visit was to the collection of Monsieur Sallier, which contains pictures, statues, Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman antiquities, vases, lachrymatories, and sarcophagi, all of great rarity and beauty. The gem of his collection is a small statue of Jupiter, found at Orange, which, for dignity and expression, could not be surpassed by a statue of large dimen

sions. It is partly draped, and the execution of the folds is admirable.

The collection of the Marquis L. is confined to medals, in which it is very rich. The owner exerted towards us all the attention which the French are never backward in paying to those well recommended to them; and has impressed us with a very favourable opinion of his hospitality.

We have had nothing to complain of at Aix, except the impossibility of procuring either cream or butter, or, at least, any that is palatable. There is only one cow in the town, which is the property of an English family settled here; and goats, of which there are an abundant stock, serve but as sorry substitutes; their milk destroying the flavour of tea and coffee. The inhabitants of Aix are quite satisfied with goat's milk, proclaim that it is far more wholesome, and quite as agreeable; but in the latter assertion I cannot coincide with them. The butter is brought from a distance, and is abominable; but to its bad quality habit has inured the people here; and our landlady seemed to think us very fastidious when we desired it to be removed from the table, where its odour was really offensive.

MARSEILLES, 22nd.-Travelling is the true secret of multiplying enjoyment, by furnishing a succession of new objects. I feel this, as fresh scenes are presented to me, keeping the mind in a continual state of agreeable excitement, without fatiguing it. The approach to Marseilles is striking, and the first view caught of the sea from a steep hill at some distance is truly grand. The blue waters extend boldly to the left, until they are seen mingling and confounded with the distant horizon; while, to the left, Marseilles, with her forest of masts, and stately buildings, bounds the prospect. Villas, thickly scattered round the environs, greatly ornament the scene, by affording a pleasing contrast to the view. The quays offer a never-failing object of interest. Here crowds of persons of all nations may be daily seen, all apparently absorbed in business:-the Turk and Armenian, in their picturesque costumes, are seen mingling with Italian sailors, in their bright scarlet caps, and English ones, with the round glazed hats, trim jackets, and white linen, conspicuously displaying that personal cleanliness for which they are remarkable. Merchants of all countries, servants of all nations, are bustling about; the mélange

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