ther; fricassees, omlets soufflé, and a variety of things, are next served round; and, just when you have swallowed the last slice of rice, or other sweet pudding the finale, as you suppose, of the meal-in comes fish, then fowls, wild birds, pudding, preserved pears; and, when utterly exhausted, you are asked to take some roast beef, or a cut of a shoulder of mutton. I, being aware of the medley, chose a few solid dishes; and, after dinner, which was over by a quarter to two, walked to the other side of the river, and strolled to Ems.

The mountain road is considerably shorter than the plain, or carriage one, and commences at Ehrenbreitstein. After you cross the bridge of boats, instead of turning to the left to the fortress, keep right on, mount up some steps near the church, and the narrow road winds up the elevated hill on which the castle is built. This path is steep as you approach Arenberg. Near a point, where another pathway leads to the village, stands a portion of a little chapel, with the Virgin and Child carved in stone at the end. Keep you the straight road, and, looking from the summit of the hill, where is a finger-post to direct you, the panorama is superb. A vast horizon lies around; the broad Rhine spreads beneath, and you follow its course with your eye until it is hid by the intervening hills of St. Goar. The Moselle winds for miles through a rich country of vineyards and corn

fields. Towns and villages lie on the plain, and, nearer, Coblentz and Ehrenbreitstein are prominent features in the landscape.

I next entered on a thick wood; the road led through the shady groves, and there was a glen, with a scanty stream flowing at a little distance. This I crossed by means of some stepping stones; and wound up another hill, which bore a post with the brown and yellow colours of Nassau. Descending the other side, I passed through a small village, and continued my course by the Lahn till I caught a peep of Ems, as it lay snugly ensconced in the corner of the valley. There was something so cosy and comfortable in its looks, smiling at the feet of high mountains, that I took quite a fancy to the place. The river leaves a kind of island, and the hills are well-wooded.

Bad-Ems, formerly called Hembesse, is one of the most ancient baths in Germany. The heat of the water is from 20 to 40 of Reaumur. There are two sources for drinking, and many for bathing. There are a number of hotels, all very comfortable. The Bad-haus of four towers, appears one of the most considerable. The soil abounds in minerals. Promenades at Ems, owing to its small dimensions, are necessarily much circumscribed, neighbourhood is picturesque and romantic. At - Lindebeck is a charming valley and a mine. A pretty road conducts to Kemnau, and a variety of

the

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prospects may be had from Speisberg and Winterberg. In a wild, rugged valley, near the road to Auf, is the Pfingstweide,-a mine which is mentioned in the most ancient chronicles of Treves. This contains silver, copper, and lead.

Not being fortunate enough to meet my friends at the Hotel d'Angleterre as I expected, I turned my head towards Coblentz; and, while retracing my steps in the evening over the mountains, enjoyed a delightful scene. We had a good deal of heat during the day; but now the wind freshened, and as I mounted the hill, became more palpably felt, than while I was sunk in the valleys. As the sun drew near his departure, the western sky began to assume rich-golden tints; while a dark purple haze already dimmed the east. I was alone on the mountain-top, when the monarch set, and the view and tone of colouring so harmonized as to form a lovely picture. By the brink of the Rhine I could see more than one tottering ruin, fading into gloom, while the proud towers and walls of Ehrenbreitstein, seemed to laugh at decay. All was still in the adjacent town, and not a sound was heard save from the distant camp; whence stole at intervals with the rushing breeze, notes of martial music, and the wild gush sounded pleasant to mine ear. Daylight had fled, and night showed her presence 'mid a train of glittering stars, ere I gained the bridge. They were reflected on

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the water, in which the towers of Ehrenbreitstein slept in shadow as I crossed. Candles now flared and twinkled in every window of the hotel. I did not delay long in seizing one; and on going to bed, fell into a sound slumber.

CHAPTER XXIX.

Proceed to Cologne-American barrister-Parting glance at

Coblentz-Neuweid-Andernach-Environs-Brol-Le

gend of Saint Genevieve-Rhine to Nonnewerth-Rolandseck and Drachenfels-Ruins of Godesberg-Bonn-Banks become flat-Farewell to the river.

Wednesday, 5th.

WE had a good number of persons on board “ Le Roi de Prusse;" among them some English pilgrims, and I discovered a young American barrister, with whom I fell into conversation. "It is quite the custom," he told me, "with the members of his profession in the other world, to make a tour immediately on being admitted, and before they devote themselves to the close and laborious duties of their calling."

I mentioned, that "I was completing my travels, before I commenced my studies, for the same reason." As I think it much better to let nothing distract me when once I seriously begin, which, running from study to travel, and back to business, assuredly must.