286

ARRIVE IN BRUSSELS.

would find place. It was fitted up with the room above it as a vast bazaar when I visited it.

The road thence to Brussels is so similar to what I have already described, as to render repetition superfluous. We reached this gay capital about six in the evening.

The period of the fête was arriving,—the hotels were crowed. I obtained accommodation in one, not first-rate; but, from the attention and civility I there experienced, has a right to my recommendation,-Hotel du Morian.

CHAPTER XXXI.

Belgium's capital-History-Church and chair of St. Gudule -The Sablon-Church of Minimes -Fountain - Place Grand Sablon-Beguinage-Sisters of Charity-Church of Saint Catherine-A Reunion-Place Royale-The ParkKing's palace-Prince of Orange's palace-BibliothèqueFlemish architecture-Hotel de Ville-Statistics-Sociality increased by dining The unknown guests- Bruxelles' Theatre-Botanical garden-Palace of Laaken-Tervuren -Mnemonics-The unknown discovered.

BRUXELLES.

September 8th.

"BELGIUM's capital" is supposed to have derived its name from occupying the ground formerly covered by brambles, broussailles. The more ancient chronicles call it Broxella, or Bruxella.

It owes its origin to St. Gery, Bishop of Cambray and Arras; who in the eighth century built a chapel on the little isle formed by the Senne, and it soon became surrounded by many habitations. About 1312, the order of Knights Templar was

288 CHURCH AND CHAIR OF ST. GUdule.

suppressed, and in 1489 this city was ravaged by a frightful plague, which swept away 35,000 persons. In 1555, Charles V. abdicated his imperial crown in favour of his son Philippe II. In 1814, the crowns of Belgium and Holland were united in William I. And 1830, a revolution broke out in Belgium, which ended in the severance of the two provinces, and the appointment of a sole monarch to Belgium,-his present Majesty Leopold I.

One of the first visits the tourist pays, is to the church of Saint Gudule, in which is placed the famous oak pulpit, made by Henry Verbruggen, of Antwerp; originally intended for the Jesuits' church, at Louvain. It was executed in 1699; but after the suppression of that order, purchased by Marie Thérèse in 1776, to present to Saint Gudule's at Brussels. This box bears in gold letters the name of the artist thus::

Han Verbruggen, Ant. inv. delin. et fecit.

The lower part of this ingenious performance which presents the finest specimen extant of oak carving, represents our first parents driven out of paradise by the Archangel Michael, who carries the flaming sword in his hand,- death pursues them. The figures are of natural size, and so placed as apparently to support the globe above them. The cavity of this globe is the pulpit which the preacher occupies.

CHURCH AND CHAIR OF ST. GUDULE. 289

This rests on a tree, covered by a canopy, supported on the one side by an angel, on the other by Truth, personified by a female. On the top is a beautiful statue of the blessed Virgin, with the infant Saviour, holding a cross, and crushing with its staff the head of the betraying serpent,-according to the prophecy," And thy seed shall bruise the serpent's head." The Virgin is encircled by a glory, formed by stars, and surrounded by a number of angels.

Two small staircases are at the bottom of this pulpit, and on the branches of the tree of knowledge, different animals, carved natural as life. At the side of the ladder next Adam, are the ostrich and eagle; near Eve, the peacock, the parrrot, and ape.

Nothing can exceed the ease and skill exhibited in the positions of the various animals. The whole impression of its survey is truly gratifying, from the display of human ingenuity here pre

sented to the beholder.

I now inspected the other objects in the church, which is of considerable antiquity.

Saint Gudule is a Gothic edifice: the foundations were laid in 1047, by Lambert of Louvain. The twin towers were commenced in 1518, and the clock erected in 1535. The front is large, and ornamented with much sculpture. In this church, the bull of Leo X. was confirmed by Charles VI,

VOL. II.

in 1516. The principal buildings here, are the chapel of the blessed Sacrament of Miracles. The first stone, laid in 1534, by Philip of Lannoy, in the name of the Queen of Hungary, governess of the Low Countries. The windows are painted by Roger. The entire of this church would fill a catalogue. Kings, princes, archdukes, are here interred. There is an extensive prospect from the towers you perceive Malines, or Mecklin, as we call it, (celebrated for its lace), Antwerp, Enghien, &c. Napoleon, and William I. each presented 20,000 francs to this church, now the cathedral. The great bell weighs 15,222 pounds.

I had a letter of introduction to Le Curé de Sablon, which I now hastened to deliver. This gentleman's health did not permit him to see me, but I was received with much courtesy by M. l'Abbé D-, who did all in his power to render my stay agreeable. He showed me his church, Notre Dame des Victoires,-commonly called the Sablon, which was built in 1288, by John I. in memory of his having gained the battle of Worringen.

The most interesting monument it contains, is the tomb of the princes of Tour et Taxis, executed by Cotyns. In this are a number of beautiful statues, which I was assured by my reverend conductor, were much inferior to those originally placed there; these last had been removed, or in