replied the other, taking the hint, and quietly quitting his grasp.

The use of the knife is not however so general in Italy as is supposed: the French, in a great measure, destroyed the custom. The Transteverians-those on the west side of the Tiber-who consider themselves as the lineal descendants of the ancient Romans, were then, as now, more particularly addicted to the knife and stiletto. They have lately given some proofs of this attachment, and of the independence of their dispositions.

Leo XII. is supposed to be a great admirer and advocate of the ancien régime-of ancient manners and customs-and of wishing to bring his subjects to a great severity of morals and appearance. Thus, according to the plan of reform, he has published adicts by which he forbids drinking in wine-houses: those who are dry are obliged to buy, through a grate, the measure of wine; and either to drink it standing in the street, or to carry it home. You may conceive the discontent this ordonnance could not fail to 'cause amongst the lower classes: one or two Shirri have been stabbed in a late contest in a Transteverian wine shop.

A woman announced to me the other day, in

great agitation, that an order was about to be published, commanding the different classes of subjects, to wear particular dresses, by which they might be distinguished: my informer lamented, therefore, at the prospect of being obliged to cast aside all her present wardrobe, and considered how she should look when dressed in yellow stockings and a blue cap; for it had been settled what was to be the dress of each order. The whole, however, turned out to be a fudge; a Roman laugh against themselves and their condition.

The promoter and encourager of these dispositions that are lent to the Pope, is said to be the Cardinal della Somaglia, the Secretary of State. He is reported to have had the intention-but to have been deterred from it by embassies from the different towns-of diminishing the public expenditure by abolishing the charge of lamplighting: "because," he is related to have said, " in his youth no streets were ever lighted at

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night, and that, nevertheless, all went on just as well."

I now hear that the committee for vaccination has thus been lately suppressed as an innovation.

Talking lately with some Romans, the conversation turned on Cardinal della Somaglia.

Somebody, affecting to mistake the name, called him Somarella-a little ass-indeed I myself had had with him a recent interview, from which I had retired penetrated with due respect for -his age and station :-but the person to whom the other was speaking, immediately caught up the pun, repeating "il Cardinale della Somarella!

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Oh, questo mi piace!-Oh, I like that!" I mention this as a proof of the light in which this minister is seen.

When the French were in possession of Rome, they cleared away the shabby buildings that encumbered the ground around the beautiful column of Trajan: and the earth being dug away as low as the base of that column, twenty or thirty pillars, broken off at a greater or less distance from their pedestals, were exposed to view: they are all, however, without capitals. These mutilated pillars, the remains of the Forum of Trajan, are known to modern Roman wits by the appellation of The Consistory.

The column of Trajan, which rises in the midst above the others, is, howeever, whole and unbroken.

I was this morning stopped in the street by a procession of children, two of whom carried a

Cross, which the others followed singing—a very common amusement at Rome. Approaching the wall, to make room for them, I saw an edict permitting the exportation of gunpowder, as the manufacture of that article exceeded"i bisogni dello stato-the wants of the state;" how good! Adieu.

LETTER XIII.

MY DEAR FRIEND,

Rome, April 20.

HOLY week, which you call Passion week,* is now ended, the English had arrived in crowds to witness the ceremonies, which they ran after with the greatest eagerness, and which any one of them could probably describe to you much more minutely than I am able to do: for, knowing beforehand what I was to expect, and having seen the same offices performed in nearly the same manner in every church on the continent, I was less anxious to witness those of Rome than were most of my indefatigable countrymen, who flocked wherever they were told a sight was to be seen, and, assembling in the evening, en

* Passion week is that preceding Holy week.