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“ before the SS. Crucifix. after Complin. Some “ Confr. go processional. to S. Pietro in Vatic. “ B. Gioacchino Piccolomini of the Order of the “ Servi di Maria Advocate against convulsions “and falling sickness.”

On all this I have only to remark, that the third and last Miserere was performed this day, and pleased me even less than usual, as the voices did not sing in time, which was before their only claim to admiration—the being as like an instrument as possible.

* 17th, Holy Saturday. Solem. feast of Easter. “ Stat. at S. Giovanni in Later, where there is “the Gen. Ordinat., and the Solem. Baptism of “ Hebrews and Turks, and the SS. Heads of “ the Apost. are shewn: Papal Chapel in the “ Apost. Palace, a Card. Priest sings Mass, and “the Castel”-of S. Angelo_“fires at the “ Gloria in excelsis Deo, and the bells of all " the churches ring rejoicingly. At 21 o'clock " the Pontifical Service is performed in the - Armenian rite. At S. Marcelle, at 22 o'clock, “there is performed a function called the “ Coronat. of Maria Virg. in remembrance of “ her joys for the Resur. of Jesus Christ. S. " Aniceto P. C. and M. in the noble Chapel in

“the palace of the Most Excell. Duke Altemps, “ where his body reposes."

“ 18th, Sund. Pasque of the Resurrection. “ Feast instituted by the Apostles, and confirmed

by the Council of Nice, and is the greatest “solemnity of the year. Stat. at 8. Maria

Magg. the Castle fires at day-break, the High “ Pontiff solemnly sings Mass at S. Pietro, “after which," &c. &c.

I go no further : this will enable you to judge of the many prayers and offices that are continually performed in the many churches of Rome. Whether these offices are well attended, I am unable to say ; few of them are obligatory

You also see here the use that is made of the tomb of Hadrian; guns are fired from it at the alba of all feasts, and, on particular days, artificial fires are thrown from its summit. Such took place on this day-Easter Sunday; but I must first speak of the famous illumination of the Dome of S. Peter's.

I have, I think, already mentioned that there is a fine view of the church and dome from the windows of our apartment. Small plates of iron jut out from the sides of the dome, and on these plates lamps are placed by men suspended by a

on laics.

cord passed round their waists. The danger of this undertaking is so great, that the “ San Pie“ trini"-as the men are called -always confess and prepare for death before beginning it. At sun-set the illumination commenced: this is divided into two periods. During the first, cases of paper are placed round candles. The effect of this was, at first, very charming; for the bright sun, which had just then descended below the horizon, had left the sky covered with a red and purple shade, and the faint light of the candles gave the dome the appearance of a slight transparent cloud, floating before the more purple expanse behind. As the night, which was extraordinarily dark, came on, the dome gradually detached itself from the sky; and, in proportion as the light of the one was extinguished, the other acquired more brilliancy, and lost the delicate feeble tint which had confounded it with the last rays of the setting sun. The “ San “ Pietrini” were then seen swinging through the air, and preparing the lamps. At a signal given, the whole dome was, in less than a minute, covered with these lamps of oil; the blaze of which, not being intercepted by paper, overpowered the light of the lanternoni, or candles. Though at near a mile's distance from the church, I could not deceive myself as to the nature of this illumination: it was still evident that it was composed of smoking lamps, which, placed in every part of the building, hid and seemed to alter the form of it, and shewed merely a large mass, of no distinct shape, covered with red blazes, and canopied with smoke.

Soon after, the renowned girandolafireworks--rose from the Fort of S. Angelo. I thought I had seen better in provincial towns in the South of France.

After the girandola, I walked down to the front of S. Peter's. The illumination here seemed, if possible, more ugly than from a distance, Between each lamp there was a vacant space sufficient for two others, which would have given more unity to the whole.

So much for the illumination of S. Peter's, and the ceremonies of the Holy Week! Omne ignotum, &c.; and to nothing can this be applied more justly than to ancient and modern Rome. Adieu,

LETTER XIV.

Rome, 29th April.

MY DEAR FRIEND,

Five days after Easter scarcely an Englishman was to be found in Rome. Their re-union for the Holy Week, and their sudden dispersion, were alike curious; and I cannot but admire the ingenuity with which they select the places of their temporary abode, allotting to each the exact time and season, which its religion or climate points out for momentary preference. Some are now gone direct to Switzerland; and some to pay a short visit to Naples, before returning Northward.

Thus they have spent a winter in seeing Italy, its great towns, and the wonders it offers. The shortness of their stay in

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