took possession of this burying-place; they buried their own dead in it; put Roman ashes into urns first used by the Greeks; and, finally, broke open the Greek tombs, scattered the bodies, the jars, &c. and buried in them their own dead according to their own rites. All this is plain, from the state in which the Sepolcreto was found. Yet no workmen have been employed, no excavations are carried on in this most interesting spot. Want of money is pretended as an excuse for this neglect; and, at the same time, half a million* is spent on the palace of Capodimonte. The subjects of little states are always more taxed than those of greater powers; and the revenue is spent in chases, palaces, and in the same pursuits in which a private individual of large fortune would employ his income. The little kings and princes of Italy have more palaces and country places than any of the higher sovereigns.

From the Studii, I went to the Drebouldoura dei Dgendili: so the Neapolitans—in patois— pronounce Sepoltura dei Gentili, which means Sepulchre of the Gentiles,-a general denomination for Protestants, Calvinists, Lutherans, et

• Neapolitan money.

cetera. Yet all these sects who complain so much that the Catholics, from whom they have separated in life, will not allow them to be buried amongst them,-supposing the which to be permitted, what funeral rites would they employ? Catholic, or Reformed, or none? would each bless the ground according to his own faith, and annul the blessing of the other? -all these sects might, one would think, for the sake of decency, and out of respect to their relations, and even their religions, procure a better burying-ground than that they now make use of. It is in fact a common garden; and the earth which covers a tomb is cultivated like the rest of the soil, unless, as in a very few cases, the spot is surrounded by railings. The body is generally buried near the garden wall, in which is fixed a small slab of marble, recording the name and amiable qualities of the deceased. It would seem, also, as if the plainness of the ground excused, in the eyes of relatives, a still greater plainness of monument. Though the gardener would have no objection to such embellishments being raised on his property, yet people of great fortune in England here bury their relations in a manner they would be

:

unwilling, if not ashamed, to do in their own country. Dying at Naples is, however, rather expensive: doctors are, it is true, cheaper than in England, but, unfortunately, the town abounds with English physicians, whom English travellers think it their duty to maintain the proprietor of the garden demands 26 ducats for the ground; the grave-digger requires 25 carlini for making the grave: in short, the consideration of cheapness may be brought to enforce my remarks on this subject, and to that end I should recommend, to all interested, to put up, at the principal bankers, a second notice—the products of the first go to the chaplain-requesting subscriptions for the purchasing of a spot of proper ground for the burial of individuals of the reformed churches.

The Albergo de' Poveri is an immense workhouse; the best eulogy I can make of it is to mention the rules of the establishment. It is divided into two parts: the one contains about 900 women and girls; the other 1500 men and boys: all enter and leave the community when they like. All work trades, such as shoemaking, dancing, &c. are taught to those who know none, and one third of the produce of

their labour is given to them, the rest goes to the King, who furnishes the materials: food in plenty, and clothing-which, however, the women find too coarse to wear-is also found them. The coral-cutting, a branch of trade carried on in the establishment, is curious: each piece is made separately, and by different workmen; some chop it into the proper size, others grind it into shape, others polish it, others make holes in the beads, and others string them. I was told that some respectable "figli di galant' "uomini-sons of gentlemen," were sent here by their parents in lieu of other chastisement: these pay un tanto al mese-so much a month," and are taught Latin, music, drawing, and the other branches of a liberal education, though liberal educations are of little use at Naples. Each compartment has its garden, chapel, and infirmary: nothing seems to be wanted but a greater supply of fresh air; but the want of this is a great evil.

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In making these excursions, I often passed the Piazza di Mercatello, situated at the west end of the great Street di Toledo, which traverses the whole length of the town. In this square a body of German troops is always sta

tioned; they pass the night under tents, before which sentinels continually parade, and two first-rate cannon, attended by a body of engineers, are always mounted in front of this camp. Do the Austrian troops, after three years quiet stay in the country, find this conduct necessary for their own defence? Or, is this method adapted to conciliate the affection of the inhabitants? It such is their aim, sure never invading army succeeded worse. A Neapolitan, hearing an Austrian drum, exclaimed to me, 66 Ah, que ces tambours Au"trichiens me font mal à l'estomac !" I was at a large ball given by a Neapolitan noble: no German officer was invited, although they were all acquainted with the master of the house: the company was much gayer than at most re-unions, for which singularity they accounted by saying, "that they were so happy at seeing "no Austrian, that they were unable to contain "themselves." These are but slight examples; but their hatred to the Germans, and their regrets for "Givacchino"-Murat-and the French, exceed what you would suppose to be the bounds of possible aversion and affection in a conquered people towards its invaders. "It is