The land is chiefly owned by rich proprietors, nobles and others, who rent it out to tenants in parcels, either for a fixed sum, or for a certain share of the grain and other productions. Some proprietors, however, cultivate for themselves, and on a large scale. The peasants or farmers have the right in these duchies, as they have now in all parts of the kingdom, to purchase land and cultivate it for themselves. And many of them have done so. In this way the number of small farmers is increasing gradually; and thus, too, the landed property is undergoing that subdivision which so greatly prevails with us, and which is so essential an element of equal freedom in any country.

Adjoining Holstein on the southeast, and between it and the two duchies of Mecklenburg, lies the small duchy of Lauenburg. This duchy is a fine country in general, though portions of it are too sandy. It has several pleasant little cities and towns, among which, as preeminent, is Ratzeburg in the north, beautifully situated on the borders of a small lake. As a specimen of the complex relations which in some places exist between the different states of Germany, we may mention, that although the duchy of Lauenburg now belongs to Denmark, the duke of Mecklenburg-Strelitz has a domanial propriety or ownership in the Dom-church, or chief cathedral of Ratzeburg, and over the small village of Palmburg, in the neighborhood of Ratzeburg; and exercises actual sovereignty over the little city and territory of Schönburg, which lies on the road. between Hamburg and Lübeck. But it is time to return from this little digression.

In the latter part of our journey the country lost very much of the level, monotonous character, which that had through which we had passed on the western side of Holstein. By degrees, as we advanced, it became undulating, and even hilly, as we approached the city of Kiel. But all

was admirably well cultivated. The sloping sides of the hills, up to their summits, were covered with fields of grain, or with pasture-grounds. The fields were far more frequently separated from each other by hedges than they were in the western and southern parts of the duchy. They reminded us much of England; though they are far from being as well kept as the English hedges. It was really like traveling through a succession of large gardens, -so finely cultivated is the country, far and wide, for miles before we reached that city. In its immediate vicinity, one sees what is rarely seen in the western parts of Holstein, very pretty forests, of limited extent, which crown the hill-tops, and constitute a feature of great beauty in the scene.

We arrived at 10 o'clock A. M. at Kiel, and had the remainder of the day for exploring that pleasant little city.

CHAPTER VIII.

VOYAGE FROM KIEL TO COPENHAGEN.

Situation of Kiel-Its fine bay-Kiel an old German city-Market-day-Women of Probstey-Steam-boats from Kiel to Copenhagen-Kiel often visited by Russian ships of war-University of Kiel-Professors-Mode of giving instruction by lectures -Public and private lectures-Preparations for leaving Kiel-M. Marmier's description of the arrival and departure of the Copenhagen steamboats-Beautiful voyage down the bay of Kiel-Voyage through the Danish Archipelago-Description of these islands--Their cultivation-Life and manners of the inhabitants-Villages-Our steamer stops at various places-Amphibious life of the inhabitants of the Danish islands-Their superstitions, tales and songs-King Christian-Beauty of the scene on the Sound-Bluffs of Moën-The obscurity and gloom which hang over the early history of these regions-Approach to Copenhagen-Its appearance-Crowds on the wharfOur man Matthew-Hotel d'Angleterre.

KIEL is situated on the northwestern side of one of the finest bays in the world. It is an arm of the Baltic, which runs up towards the southwest, to the distance of ten or twelve miles, and in the lower part of its course separates Holstein from Sleswic. This bay is five or six miles wide at its mouth; but it gradually diminishes, in its progress inward, until it is not more than a mile in breadth at Kiel, and soon narrows away to a point above that place. It is deep enough for the largest ships; and it has been computed that all the navies of the world might lie moored in this admirable sheet of water, which is protected by the hills, which environ it, from all storms.

Kiel is a pleasant old German city, of about 13,000 inhabitants. Its population is gradually increasing. It is built much in the style of Hamburg; so that many of the remarks which we made in reference to the streets, the pavements, the houses, and the style of architecture of that

city might be applied to this. The houses are built of brick, three or four stories high, and covered with tiles. The proportion of those which are painted a whitish color is greater than is to be seen at Hamburg. And this is the case both when they are stuccoed and when they are not. The streets, too, are more regular than those of Hamburg, and are very much less dirty. There are a few handsome buildings here, the most remarkable of which is a Royal Palace or Château. There are also fine establishments for sea-bathing. And to the north of the city, and just beyond the Château, is a beautiful public garden, which furnishes a delightful promenade. The environs in other directions are also pleasant.

As we arrived not only on a market-day, but at the hour of full market, we had a fine opportunity of seeing the country people of this part of Holstein in their various costumes. The Place which surrounds the large cathedral church in the centre of the city, is the spot where the market is held. It was filled with the wagons and carts and horses of the country people, who were busy supplying the wants of the citizens. All sorts of vegetables, together with an abundant quantity of flesh and fish, were every where to be seen, and a sufficient number of sellers impatiently waiting to exchange these articles for the ready money. There was nothing different in their dress from what we had seen along the road from Hamburg to this place, excepting in the case of the women from the district called Probstey, which lies on the eastern side of the Bay of Kiel, just at its junction with the Baltic. These women wear shoes with high heels and large buckles; white stockings; short jupes or petticoats, generally of a red color, with a wide black border around the skirt, of some six or eight inches in width; a black, or blue, apron; a spencer or jacket, of black, green or blue color, adorned in front with rows of small bullet-shaped, silver

washed buttons; a large chain of the same materials around the neck; and on the head, in addition to a little cap of various colors, covering the back part, and sustaining the hair, a bell-crowned man's hat, or sometimes only a handkerchief, with two ends tied under the chin, and the other two floating back on the shoulders. Their appearance, though somewhat fantastic, is far from being unprepossessing. They come much to the market of Kiel, being chiefly cultivators of gardens. They inhabit several small villages.

The commerce of Kiel is not very great, notwithstanding all that the government of Denmark has done to draw to it the transit trade of Hamburg and Lübeck, by making an excellent road from Altona to this place, and at the same time obstinately refusing to the Hamburgers and Lübeckers permission to make either a macadamized road or a rail-road between their respective cities. Twice a week steam-boats pass and repass between Kiel and Copenhagen, and another goes once a week to several of the islands of the Danish Archipelago. One steam-boat arrives every Wednesday morning from Copenhagen, and leaves on her return at 6 o'clock on the same evening. The other boat arrives on Saturday morning, and leaves at 7 o'clock on the evening of the same day. Of course Wednesdays and Saturdays are days of no little stir in this quiet little city. On these days strangers arrive in considerable numbers, going to the capital, or returning from it. The hotels are filled. The more distinguished literati of the place receive the passing visits of those who desire to make their acquaintance. But the publicans are probably the only persons who are much benefited.

Kiel is one of the ports which the Danish vessels of war frequently visit in their coasting and exercising voyages. It is also visited from time to time by Russian men-of-war ships, some of which are almost always moving about this