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10 days after leaving Tegery they looked in vain to discover a shrub, a blade of grass, or the slightest trace of vegetable existence. In a valley called Ikba they found a little coarse grass that afforded an acceptable change to the camels after feeding for ten days upon dates.

The travelling was carried on at the rate of 12 and 13 hours a-day without halting. This was equal to a journey of from 25 to 30 miles, and was reckoned to be very fair progress, as camels usually only go over 2 miles of ground in an hour. The average heat of the sun ranged from 125° to 130°. The two sappers, by turns, watched through the hours of darkness to protect the caravan from injury or surprise, and suffered much from severe cold, owing to the state of the atmosphere falling from its extreme day-heat to a temperature sometimes as low as 45° !

At the date of Corporal Church's last letter (Nov. 28, 1853) the expedition was at Ashanumra, in the country of the tribes of Tibbú, where they arrived on the 27th of November. It was expected that the travellers, with Mr. Warrington, would be in motion again on the 30th of November; and, in 27 days after, would reach Kuka-the rendezvous of the mission-on the shores of Lake Chád.

3. Geographical Positions of Places in North Africa and Fezzan, determined by Edward Vogel, Phil. Dr.

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Tripoli Castle is lat. 32° 53′ 56′′ N.; long. 13° 12′ 58′′ E. See Smyth's 'Mediterranean.'

-ED.

† Beniolid Castle is lat. 31° 45′ 38" N.; long. 14° 12′ 10" E.

Elevation of Places in North Africa and Fezzan above the level of the Mediterranean, determined with the Barometer.

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XVII.-Extract of a Letter from Dr. Barth to Dr. Beke, dated

Timbuctu, Sept. 7th, 1853.

With Routes in Central Africa.

Read March 27, 1854.

ON setting out from Libtako we expected to reach Timbuctu in about 20 days, but have been obstructed, partly by heavy rains, swollen streams, the weakness of my camels (of which two have died and four more have been knocked up since leaving Bornu), and by the sickness and trading of the Timbuctu man whom I had hired in Libtako. We were conducted neither by way of Hombori nor by the common pilgrim-road, through Gilgoji, Dalla, and Duenza, but by a roundabout road through some small and independent towns of the Sonray, called Koar by the people of Timbuctu, and then through the midst of the Tuarick tribes of the Tademekket, who occupy all the country S. of the Mayo or Isa for more than 60 miles. We arrived at length, on the 27th of August, at

Saraiyamo, the place mentioned in the itinerary of Ahmed bel Mejúb, the largest place we have seen since leaving Say; and embarked, the 1st of September, on a fine broad sheet of water, 300 yards from the town, which, however, further on was much overgrown by grass. The large number of channels-called rijl by the Arabs of Timbuctu-formed by the inundations of this great river are remarkable: I think there is no river to be compared with it in this respect. You will form a better idea of the net of channels which we met with by a glance at the map which I am about to forward to the Foreign-Office than by a long description. In the afternoon of the 5th day, after a curious zigzag navigation, we arrived at Kábara, having entered the river itself on the afternoon of the 4th day. I say we arrived at Kábara— indeed in the boat, at least I myself and the luggage, almost at the end of the rainy season-but you will be greatly surprised when I tell you that this celebrated port of Timbuctu lies several miles distant from the river, and is only accessible by water during four or five months of the year, when the rains have been most plentiful; and it is quite impossible to reach this place by water in the month of April. Indeed, the channel by which we went up to Kábara on the 5th of September was so small that, after all the people had left the boat besides myself, it was dragged up with the greatest difficulty by the boatmen, who went in the water, which in most places did not reach up to their knees, and was about 15 feet wide. Just before Kábara a larger basin is formed, perhaps artificially, where a few vessels were lying, while a row of barks of considerable size were seen at Korome near the mouth of the channel, forming a really magnificent sight. Indeed, this moving village and the island or islands of Day lying between Kábara and the river may be more correctly called the port of Timbuctu than Kábara, which is a small town or ksar of about 400 houses and huts. As for the Mayo itself, it is a really splendid river, with which, of all the rivers I have seen, I can only compare the Nile at its highest flood; and the river is still rising, but never reaches Kábara.

My entry into this fanatic place was very grand, escorted as I was by the brother of the Sheikh el Bakay, with several people on horseback, on camels, and on foot; and I was saluted by the most respectable of the inhabitants and strangers who came out to meet us. Nobody but the sheikh's brother was acquainted with my real character, while all the rest thought, or were told, that I was a messenger of the Sultan of Stambúl.

There being a kafla of Tawatis intending to start the day after to-morrow for Tawat, I hasten to close this letter, which indisposition has prevented me from making more interesting, and I will only add a few data :

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Even during the highest rise of the river, a person going to Bamba and Ga'o has first to return S. and E. to get into the river; the channel or ditch of Kábara having no outlet towards the East.

Routes from Kano to Nyffe, and from Mozambique to Lake Nyassi. Extracted from Letters from Dr. Barth to Dr. Beke, dated Kano, March 4th, and Kuka, July 25th, 1851.

1. Kano to Nyffe.

I Now send you the route from Katshna to Nyffí, according to a man who has travelled much, and whom I was about to hire as a servant, Mohammed Annoor.

1st day. About Aser you arrive at Metomáti, a large village, after having passed several smaller ones on the road, one of which is called Goúra.

2nd. Before Aser arrive at a place called Gari-n-mu-tum-daea (the place of the single person), because since it was destroyed by the Fellanis it has been entirely deserted. Near the village is a large valley, with constant water in the dry season. The whole day's journey is through forest.

3rd. About half-past one o'clock P.M. you encamp in the middle of the forest, where there is plenty of water.

4th. Between Kaila and noon arrive at Grib Mohammed Diko.

5th. At sunset reach Gabezava, a place surrounded by a mud wall, and the residence of three different chiefs-one of whom is from Gober, one a Kohelán, while the third, who is named Omárú, is a Fellani. Forest; but in the neighbourhood of Gabezava there are villages.

6th. After Aser arrive at Katúrkeshi, a place surrounded by a mud wall, in a state of decay. To the right and left you have villages.

7th. About Kaila arrive at a small place surrounded by a hedge, called Kurmi-uyâ. The whole road through forest.

8th. About half-past one o'clock P.M. arrive at a village called Magajia, belonging to the wife of the governor of Guari. The road lies through a country irrigated by many streamlets. A part only is cultivated, the remainder being covered with forest. To the right and left you pass some villages.

9th. About half-past two o'clock P.M. reach a large place called Fitonguari, surrounded by a wall. On the road there is but little wood, almost the whole country being cultivated. Villages to the right and left.

10th. At half-past one o'clock P.M. arrive at Birni-n-Gúari, a large town, governed by Sultan Mahmûd. Both the wall and the houses are built of mud. The palace lies in the S. quarter. There is a small stream on the E. side of the town. The country is a little hilly.

11th. About half-past one o'clock P.M. reach Bakí-n-Kogí (the mouth of the stream), a collection of scattered villages situated on the side of a watercourse, running first eastward, but afterwards turning back to the W. There are small barks on the stream. The whole country is cultivated, there being no forest at all. Villages to the right and left.

12th. Informant, after three or four hours' travelling, encamped, early in the morning, in the cultivated lands still belonging to Guari

13th. At about eleven o'clock A.м. reach Kurmi-n-Womba, a little open place on a small watercourse, which forms the frontier of the province of Katshna.

14th. About the same time encamp at a well, called Kurmí; the road lies through a cultivated country, with but little wood. Villages to the right and left.

15th. About the same time arrive at Womba, a large town surrounded by an earth wall, the residence of a sultan, who is independent, although the country belongs to Guari. The town, which is built entirely of hasheesh (the house of the sultan alone being built of earth), has a daily market, which is much frequented. All the inhabitants are Kohelán. The whole country is well cultivated; there is a good deal of rice, and many gonda trees.

16th. About nine o'clock encamp near Gotsi-n-dutsi, a small village belonging to Womba. The whole country is well cultivated. At one place the road passes between two rocks.

17th. About eleven o'clock A.M. reach Mátene, a large town, with a governor, belonging to the Kohelán, who pays tribute to the Sultan of Zaria, to which place it is a seven days' journey from Mátene. Here is a small rivulet. The country through which the road lies is hilly, with many trees. Much

cotton.

18th. About half-past one o'clock P.M. arrive at Kurmi, belonging to Nyffi, situated on a small stream which runs into the Kaduna. There are villages to the right and left of the road.

19th. About eleven o'clock A.M. arrive on the northern bank of the Kaduna, where you encamp. There are large boats on the river. The country all under cultivation.

20th. Early in the morning informant encamped in the forest.

21st. About half-past one o'clock P.M. arrive at a large place called Debba, with a market much frequented. The houses are built of mud and hasheesh. There is a small rivulet near the village. The country well cultivated, and shaded by many trees, such as the gonda and labuje.

22nd. Early in the morning encamp at Gari-n-babérbere, a large place surrounded by a wall of mud.

23rd. At the same time (about nine o'clock) reach Kurmi-n-kada, a considerable open place with a large pool in the centre, in which there are crocodiles (hence the name of the village); this water is navigated in kaderkos.

24th. About eleven o'clock A.M. reach Yakaji, a large walled place, with a sultan. There is a rivulet here. The road is covered with forest.

25th. About eleven o'clock A.M. arrive at a large walled place called Mákua. The houses generally are built of mud and hasheesh; and there is a tank in the village. There is plenty of gonda and áyeba.

26th. About nine o'clock arrive at Raba, a place now in ruins.

Ledé, the present capital of Nyffi, is two days from Mákua.

From Gotsi-n-dutsi à road branches off in a more westerly direction, leading to Gorji, one of the most important places of Nyffi.

1st day. About Aser reach Bere; the road lying through a country covered with forest.

2nd. About Aser reach Kurremi, an open village.

3rd. About eleven o'clock A.M. reach Sabó-n-garí, a large place surrounded by a mud wall.

(4th. About nine o'clock reach Ungoi-káramá, a place situate on a mountain; the whole country being hilly. Farther off is Ungoi-babá, also upon the mountain. This is not in the direct line; the traveller returning to Sabó-ngarí, and thence pursuing the direct road.)

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