Sidebilder
PDF
ePub

CHEDDER CLIFFS.

These Cliffs, as they rise on each side of the winding valley, present one of the finest pieces of rock-scenery in the kingdom, extending nearly two miles, and being in many places 130 yards high. The village of Chedder overlooks the extensive flat ground and low moors on the south-west, to which this mountainous elevation presents a striking contrast. As we ascend the hill, the first remarkable object is a rapid and clear stream that turns a mill, as it gushes out from the rocks, and flows on towards the river Axe, which it joins at a short distance. As we approach the source of this rivulet, the chasm suddenly presents itself, and strongly attracts our attention; its form and appearance varies as we advance, and seems sometimes to consist of a vast assemblage of rocks, rising behind each other; neither offering to our view any appearance of a passage between or over them. As we proceed, however, we discover that the chasm is continuous, and conducts quite through the whole extent of the south-west ridge of the Mendip, which it divides into two branches, allowing an easy ascent to the top of the hill. In its winding course the path is in a direction nearly from south-west to north-east; the rocks on the right hand rising much higher than on the left, and in some places to the height of 300 feet, frequently presenting singularly picturesque appearances, and bold projecting masses; and where the road is narrowed, the bottom appears covered with huge fragments of broken rocks; and overhead, sapling trees and brushwood, with ivy intermixed, form an impending shade, here and there presenting collections of loosened stones, which seem to threaten destruction to the astonished passenger. In attentively observing the face of the rocks on each side, there appears an exact correspondence in their form and texture, strongly indicating that they have been originally united, and that their dislocation has been effected by the falling down of the lower part of the hill, in some ancient convulsion.

The strata are from one to three feet in thickness, and their inclination nearly toward the south-west; the general direction of the whole mass, being from north-west to southeast. This is the course of these hills, and their height seems to increase northward, particularly near the village of Loxton, where there is a prodigious eminence, called Crook's Peak. These Cliffs have been compared to Dove Dale, in Derbyshire; and, excepting the profusion of wood which covers the latter, there is a resemblance between them; but the scenery of Chedder is on a grander and bolder scale.

Where the passage of the Chedder Cliffs terminates, two roads branch off, and lead to the tops of the hills, which rise several hundreds of feet higher, with a gradual ascent, commanding, to the west and south, the most extensive prospects.

Mendip may properly be termed the Alps of Somersetshire, as the Peak has been of Derbyshire these immense chains of mountains are exceedingly alike in the natural productions of which they are composed: veins of lead and calamine are distributed throughout both; and in both of them vast caverns and subterraneous vaults are found, and the same species of stone; with the same admixture of coralloid relics in their limestone rocks.

CHEDDER CLIFFS.

(LOOKING SOUTH.)

These stupendous rocks of Chedder, forming a portion of the Mendip hills, are not only distinguished, as affording sublimely romantic views of great interest to the admirer of nature, but are highly valuable in the inexhaustible treasures which the mineralogist discovers in the strata of which they are formed. These are found to contain rich veins of lead and calamine; copper, magnesia, bole and red-ochre, are also produced, and coal in abundance. In every part of the great range of the Mendip hills, portions of these minerals are found, yet the calcarious formation, denominated the compact gray mountain limestone, constitutes the chief substance of the rocky masses which give rise to all the bold and picturesque scenery so remarkable in this district, and of which the hills of Chedder form the southern extremity.

The river Axe has its source in Chedder cliffs, issuing from the gloomy cavern of Wokey Hole, which is a natural perforation of the rock, in some degree similar to certain excavations in Derbyshire, and like them it is also provided with its witch and its legend.

Several years ago, a dog, thrown into this hole, found his way through the body of the mountain, and came out near the town of Chedder, where a stream issues forth, and which from this occurrence is known to communicate with the cavern, which is more than five miles distant.

Wokey Hole has been noticed by various authors, and particularly in the Philosophical Transactions by some it is described as about three hundred feet in depth; by others it is said to be unfathomable. It is enclosed by a wall to prevent accidents, fatal to men and beasts. The principal entrance is dangerous to approach, and terrible to behold; a little below this chasm an impending rock is seen, but all beyond is frightful gloom. Visitors throw stones into it, which are heard for some time, dashing against rocks, and at last plunge into water. On the 17th of March, 1775, the Rev. M. Newman, one of the canons of the Cathedral of Bristol, with another gentleman and two ladies, one of them his sister, and the other, the object of his affection, went to explore the depth of this horrible cavity. Mr. N. lowered a line, and being near the dark aperture, in order that he might be safer, laid hold of a part of the root of an ash-tree, which grew over the mouth of it. But his foot slipping, the twig broke, and he was precipitated into this yawning, black, and dreadful gulf, in the sight of his astonished and almost petrified friends. That morning he had officiated at Clifton church, and read the 88th Psalm, in which are these words, strikingly descriptive of his catastrophe: "Thou hast laid me in the lowest pit, in a place of darkness, and in the deep!" After this shocking accident, so many people went from Bristol to view this Hole, that the place about it resembled a fair. Vehicles for descending were contrived, and some went down daily, to search for the body, which was found, thirty-nine days after, floating on the water.

:

DUNDRY TOWER.

DUNDRY is the highest hill in this part of the country; its name is derived from the Erse Dun and Draegh, "The hill of oaks ;" with which wood, it was undoubtedly covered in ancient times; and there yet remains some fine groves of oak-trees on its northern side its western summit has a most bleak and dreary aspect; the cold winds from the channel blow over it; and the stillness of solitude is neither enlivened by the productions of nature, nor the works of art, of which scarcely a vestige appears, excepting a rude building, supposed to have been a beacon-house, of great antiquity; it has two large flat stones inclined against each other to form a roof, and is entered by a low arched door-way. This lofty eminence is fourteen miles distant from Bath, in a westerly direction, and five miles south-west from Bristol, and commands most extensive and beautiful prospects in the west of England. To the north and east the cities of Bath and Bristol are seen; and beyond these to the right, into Wiltshire, the view includes the hills about Calne and Devizes, and the White-horse, at the distance of thirty-five miles. The high ground near Berkley and Stroud in Gloucestershire, are seen beyond Bristol, with the summits of the Malvern hills in Worcestershire. The Severn, as it extends from north to west, is seen to embrace the Welsh coast, and beyond it are the mountains of Wales at a vast distance; as the eye follows the river in its course, the Quantock hills appear, near Bridgwater; and a beautiful and richly cultivated country extends southward, including Stourhead, Knoll Hill, and Clay Hill near Warminster, with the noble plantations of Lord Weymouth and the Duke of Somerset, bounded by the high lands in the vicinity of Shaftesbury.

Dundry church is dedicated to St. Michael the Archangel; it is on a very elevated station, and seen at an immense distance, both by sea and land. It consists of a nave, north aisle, and chancel. A beautiful tower rises from the west-end, ornamented with clustered open turreted pinnacles fifteen feet high above the battlements: there are six bells and a handsome clock; with a staircase leading to the top.

The original building was erected in 1482, but was repaired and enlarged in 1794 at the expense of £1,500. Henry Hellier, a learned divine, and fellow of Corpus Christi College, Oxford, was born in the village of Dundry. He was the author of a sermon, preached before the University of Oxford, and published there in 1687: the subject of this discourse was "the obligation of an oath ;" the text being the 4th verse of the 15th Psalm. It was understood to be a bold attack on king James II., impugning him with a breach of his coronation oath. That this feeling prevailed in the neighbourhood, is evident from the following inscription on a brass plate, in the church. "In memory of William and Martha Jones, of Bishport. She died March 3rd 1749, aged 67. He died May 16th 1753, aged 81. He was a man of well-known integrity, and whose natural abilities were so great, that by them only, he clearly comprehended the powers of the human mind; and, unaided by academical education, was able to refute, with uncommon sagacity, the slavish systems of usurped authority over the rights, the consciences, and the reason of mankind

BRISTOL, FROM THE AVON-THE QUAY, WITH TOWER OF ST. STEPHENST. AUGUSTINE'S BACK-REDCLIFFE CHURCH, AND PARADE.

The part of the Quay of Bristol named The Back, was formerly of inferior importance; but a canal has been made, which encloses the parishes of St. Mary Redcliffe, and the Temple, nearly in a triangle; its object is to keep a regular supply of water, by the assistance of drains, that vessels may float at low water.

These improvements have been effected at a great expense, and the largest vessels may now proceed to sea from this port, with the lowest neap tides, instead of being compelled to wait for spring tides; sometimes losing weeks, and even months, and the advantages of favouring winds. These beneficial results far exceed the expectations of those by whom the works were originally undertaken. The expense of loading and unloading vessels is considerably diminished, as they now always preserve the same relative position to the walls of the Quay, being no longer elevated or depressed as the tides rise or fall; two navigable rivers have been converted into immense floating docks; and the original warehouses retained and improved, and exceedingly increased in value; and the transactions of commerce rendered more certain, easy, and expeditious. The expense of these works was originally estimated at £300,000, but the actual cost was nearly £600,000.

With these improvements, the Quay of Bristol is one of the finest mercantile havens in Europe; its embankment is a firm solid wall of stone, with large hewn copings, forming one continued wharf of more than a mile in extent, from St. Giles' Bridge to the mouth of the Frome; and up the Avon to Bristol Bridge. Passing along the borders of the City, at various places, the Quay receives peculiar distinguishing names. The original name of Back is retained by the bend of the river from Bristol Bridge to Redcliffe Parade; from whence, following the course of the river, it is called the Grove: in several places there are Docks of considerable extent projecting out from the river, and on one of these, which is on the western side, there is a building on cast-iron pillars, called the Great Crane, used for loading and unloading ships: this curious and importantly useful piece of mechanism, is the workmanship of the ingenious Mr. Padmore; from this place to the mouth of the Frome receives the name of the Gib. The entrance to the Bristol Dock is through St. Giles' Drawbridge, and, by the appointment of the magistrates, officers are stationed here, and paid for attending to admit all vessels on their approach.

On the banks of this river, various conveniences are made for ship-building and repairing; and the Merchants' Floating Dock is of very unusual extent. About two miles lower down the river there is a noble Dock, called Sea Mill Dock, sufficiently capacious to hold 150 vessels.

M

After passing over the first iron bridge, from the Bath road, we arrive at the Parade; which is the nearest and most pleasant road, along the banks of the Avon, to Clifton, and the Hot Wells. In many places it is beautifully shaded with trees, and in its whole extent is surrounded by interesting objects. The flight of steps leading to Redcliffe Church rises from the Parade, and, as we proceed along the banks of the river, the retrospect of this venerable structure is exceedingly impressive.

The second iron bridge, of one arch, is at a short distance; and the City Jail, presenting in its construction strength and security. It is a spacious building, with wings, approached by iron galleries on the highest story. A high wall surrounds the whole.

Perhaps there is no part of Bristol or its vicinity that presents a more varied or interesting range of scenery than is exhibited before us, as we proceed along this favourite and much-frequented walk; near Brandon Hill Tyndale's Park-house is seen on an eminence; with the Royal and Lower Crescents; Illhouse-dock, with the shipping in the Float; Nova Scotia Wharf, and Cumberland Bason. In the distance, as we advance, Rawnham Ferry, Watts' Folly, built upon a rock of immense height, and a pleasing view of Dundry Hill, diversify the surrounding prospect.

ENTRANCE TO BRISTOL-BRIDGE-GENERAL VIEW, &c.

A bridge over the Avon is mentioned by ancient writers as early as the year 1173, which is supposed to have been of wood; and this is probable; for, in 1761, when the old bridge of 1247 was pulled down, the workmen perforated the piers, to discover whether they were strong enough to support the new erection, and found in the middle of Redcliff pier a sill of oak, about a foot square, and forty feet long, with two uprights near each end, about nine inches square, and nine feet high, mortised into it, which they concluded to be the remains of the old wooden bridge, walled up in the pier, to prevent the trouble of taking them out.

The present bridge is constructed of wrought stone, brought from Courtfield, in Monmouthshire; it consists of three wide and lofty arches, with handsome stone balustrades, six feet high; the central arch is elliptical, and the span fifty-five feet, the side arches semicircular, and of forty-feet span. The piers are in thickness ten feet, and in length forty-two. There is a raised way for foot-passengers, defended by small iron pillars and chains. This bridge was opened in 1768. It is well lighted; and at each end is a tollhouse of stone; but, the tolls being discontinued, these are converted into shops. The river here is deep, and very rapid, and flows to the height of forty feet, so as to bring a vessel of 1000 tons up to the Quay.

« ForrigeFortsett »