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and daughter-in-law of the sultan pierced his neck and chest, and he was drawn out by one leg like a dog through the gate. The woman who committed this act came in fear to me at night, saying, “Give me protection : it is said I am to be killed for stabbing the adulterer.” Though for the moment I detested the woman, I endeavoured to calm her by saying my guns would be her protection, and my men should sleep in her house. On asking her “Why did you soil your hands with such a deed ?" she replied, in the most animated way, “Oh, did I not glory in it! did the fellow not come to my bedside one night making propositions to me, and I never could get hold of him since ?” The following day she, as usual, wished me good-morning, but I shuddered to think that so handsome a woman and so kind a mother, with four beautiful children who must have seen all, could have committed such an act. The woman who had offended was a middle-aged good-looking person. Nothing whatever was done to her, though she had once before been the cause of a man's death under similar circumstances. Previous to this event she would come often to look at herself in my mirror, but afterwards I did not see so much of her.
Several of our men made brotherhood with the Wezees, and the process between Bombay and the sultan's son, Keerenga, may be mentioned. My consent having been given, a mat is spread, and a confidential party or surgeon attends on each. All four squat, as if to have a game at whist; before them are two clean leaves, a little grease, and a spear-head; a cut is made under the ribs of the left side of each party, a drop of blood put on a
leaf and exchanged by the surgeons, who rub it with butter twice into the wound with the leaf, which is now torn in pieces and strewn over the “brothers”” heads. A solemn address is made by the older of the attendants, and they conclude the ceremony by rubbing their own sides with butter, shaking hands, and wishing each other success. Ten rounds of ammunition are then fired off; a compliment from each of the four drums is sounded, and they parade the village all the afternoon. This was the form observed by the Wanyamuezi. An Uganda lad, the magician of the sultan, made brotherhood with Rehan, the cook, by cutting marks on his chest and rubbing in the fat of lions. This young wizard of Uganda, with his bamboo tube, could blow away all the enemies of the sultan, or, if persuaded to go out shooting with you, a second blast from his trumpet would make the animals of the forest stand before you ! The last of their unintelligible customs I shall mention, was that of a number of men amusing themselves by running fast through and about the village, singing, at every third or fourth step, “Queri” or “ Hairy,” and “Queri Mahamba.” I had seen the same custom across country, outside the village ; and on the nights of this great stir, dancing would also take place.
To give a description of the difficulties and disappointments we experienced for nearly four months in procuring men to carry our luggage, would be tiresome. I shall only mention a few instances. Speke was away sixty miles in advance of me with a portion of the
property: neither he nor I could proceed a step; we were like two planets compelled by a fixed law to preserve our distances. He resolved on making a flying march
WE SUCCEED IN MARCHING.
to Karague, in the hope of sending me relief from thence. Our own Seedees mutinied; they would not hear of this plan, as the country of Usui was dangerous,—it was certain death to accompany white men, who were considered sorcerers of the deepest dye, and they insisted that we had not enough of presents for the chiefs. Speke, ever active, to my utter surprise, walked back the sixty miles to announce this failure to me.
“ What has happened? I thought you were in Karague !” What was to be done ? Our beads and cloth were running short; my sultan would not give us a man. Unyanyembe and the Arabs must be appealed to, and carpenters might be got to proceed to the south end of Lake Nyanza, make a raft, and so escape the danger of Usui. This plan was carried out with success. Speke returned on the nineteenth day from the Arabs, having, in going and returning, accomplished a journey of 180 miles. He had ordered from Zanzibar a fresh supply of bartering goods, of which we heard nothing till our arrival in England two years afterwards. The raft scheme had been dropped, and he had brought with him trusty guides and interpreters for Uganda. Here more than a month elapses; his guides desert, his men are more mutinous than ever, and Bombay is on his way for new guides, as his master is struck down with illness, which I knew nothing of for twenty-seven days, and had no prospect of seeing him. Suddenly a party of coast men arrive from the north, saying, “Every chief there waits you ; go on, get porters; the road is clear;" so, after days of obstinate resistance and final outbreak by my old sultan, on the 12th September I was able once again to be on the move to join my companion.
UKUNI TO KARAGUE, SEPTEMBER 12 TO NOVEMBER 25, DIS
TANCE 200 MILES—COMMENCING THE JOURNEY-ATTACKED ON THE MARCH—THE WATUTA RACE—THE COUNTRY BETWEEN UKUNI AND KARAGUE - WATERFALL VOLCANIC MOUNDS—THE KING OF BIRDS—THE WANYAMBO—THE WALINGA, OR WORKERS IN IRON — A NATIVE BEAUTY-LANGUAGE OF THE COUNTRY.
KARAGUE! how charmed we were to get there ; its fine bills, lake scenery, climate, and, above all, the gentleness of the royal family, were all in such contrast to what we had experienced elsewhere of Africa and Africans, that, if surrounded by our friends, we should have been content, for a time at least, to take up our residence there. But before describing the country, the thread of our narrative must be taken up to show what had to be undergone to reach this haven. In September 1861, when preparing to move, I found that before a start could be made on an African march, particularly after a long halt, there were hundreds of annoyances unknown in other countries. No one believes you wish to move till a display is made of your beads, by counting them out, stringing them, and
EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL.
packing up the loads. The sight of these rouses the sultan : he, his family, and all the people of the place, begin to pester you for presents, and you would give worlds to be away from such intolerable bullying. Half
your number of porters at last being collected to receive their pay, a momentary suspense takes place : the first man hesitates to accept the hire he had agreed for; each man strives to lay the responsibility upon another; but as soon as one accepts, instantly the rest scramble for it. Here are some extracts from my Journal previous to the march :
“8th September.—Attempt to push all the engaged men ahead with their loads, in charge of Said, but fail, and half the day is lost by the native procrastination. Said no better than the rest of them. After a long day of it, started off 40 loads and three donkeys ahead to first march, where they will wait for us. Ten paid-up porters not present. One says, “My wife is ill; I return my hire :' another, ‘My father and mother won't allow me to accompany you. I chastise him; he puts himself under the protection of the sultan, and bolts, leaving his hire of calico blackened by one day's wear. A third will not go because I refuse him the leadership. Last night my men returned from searching for porters, saying, “None will
you give them four times the usual hire.'
“ 9th.— Three of my men have been away all day, and have not brought back a man. mised to come, but I have no faith in what they say; others ask triple hire. Twelve loads sent out by men of the advanced camp.
“10th.-Cannot see a prospect of marching from here. Ordered Manua to Roongwa for porters; saw
Wezees had pro