FOR THE USE OF MANUFACTURERS. MECHANICS, AND SCIENTIFIC AMATEURS. BY ERNEST SPON. LONDON: E. & F. N. SPON, 46, CHARING CROSS. NEW YORK: 446, BROOME STREET. 1879. PREFACE. WORKSHOP RECEIPTS was compiled to effect three purposes; to serve as a note-book for the small manufacturer; to supply the intelligent workman with information required to conduct a process, foreign perhaps to his habitual labour, but which it is necessary to practise at the time; and impart to the scientific amateur a knowledge of many processes in the arts, trades, and manufactures, which will, it is hoped, render his pursuits the more instructive and remunerating, The novice would do well to remember that it is the individual skill of the workman in performing many apparently simple operations which renders those operations successful, and that this skill is only obtained from long practice or natural ability. A pre-eminently superior manipulator resembles a poct in that he is born, not made;' when therefore a receipt is tried for the first time and is not thoroughly successful, the experimentalist should consider how far his own inexperience has contributed to the failure ere he condemns the receipt. Receipts peculiarly useful to Mechanical Draughtsmen are given at pages 1 to 9. Receipts for Alloys, Casting, and Founding, pp. 9 to 13; Bronzes and Bronzing, pp. 16 to 21; Cements, pp. 22 to 25; Dyeing, pp. 30 to 40; Glass-cutting, twisting, drilling, darkening, bending, staining, and painting, pp. 55 to 60; Pottery and Porcelain, pp. 42 to 52; Glass, pp. 53 to 60; Varnishes, Japans, and Polishes, pp. 60 to 88; Pigments, and Painting in Oils, in Water Colours, as well as Fresco, House, Transparency, Sign, and Carriage Painting, pp. 89 to 116; Lathing and Plastering, pp. 120 to 123; Paperhanging, pp. 118, 119; Firework Making, pp. 125 to 146; Engraving and Etching, pp. 146 to 170; Electro-Metallurgy, including Cleaning, Dipping, Scratchbrushing, Batteries, Baths, and Deposits of every description, pp. 170 to 246; Photography, pp. 246 to 295; Inks, pp. 343 to 349; Silvering, pp. 206 and 335; Gilding, pp. 188 to 199; Solders, p. 364; Soap, pp. 372 to 386; Candles, p. 350; Veneering, pp. 411 to 414; Marble Working, pp. 386 to 393; Dyeing, Graining, and Staining Wood, pp. 414 to 426; interspersed with other matters far too numerous to mention. As far as possible subjects at all allied in character, either in constitution or mode of working, have been grouped together; and in general, the main subject is indicated by a heading in bold clarendon type, branch-subjects by small capitals, and details by italics. The difficulty, however, of obtaining certain information just when it was wanted, has prevented the adoption of anything like an alphabetical or other concatenated arrangement of the subject matter; it is believed that no inconvenience will arise from this cause, as the index is very comprehensive. Care has been exercised in cases where the practical operation connected with a receipt has been apart from the writer's experience, to have it verified by authority, and the aim throughout has been to render Workshop Receipts' a reliable handbook for all interested in Technological pursuits. AUGUST 1, 1873. ERNEST SPON. For making detail drawings an inferior paper is used, termed Cartridge; this answers for line drawings, but it will not take colours or tints perfectly. Continuous cartridge paper is also much used for full-sized mechanical details, and some other purposes. It is made uniformly 53 inches wide, and may be had of any length by the yard, up to 300 yards. For plans of considerable size, mounted paper is used, or the drawings are afterwards occasionally mounted on canvas or linen. Mounting Drawings or Paper on Linen.-The linen or calico is first stretched by tacking it tightly on a frame or board. It is then thoroughly coated with strong size, and left until nearly dry. The sheet of paper to be mounted requires to be well covered with paste; this will be best if done wice, leaving the first coat about ten minutes to soak into the paper. After applying the second coat, place the paper on the linen and dab it all over with a clean cloth. Cut off when thoroughly dry. To Fasten Paper on a Draw. ing Board. The stretched irregular edges of the sheet of paper are cut off against a flat ruler, squaring it at the same time. The sheet of paper is laid upon the board the reverse side upwards to that upon which the drawing is to be made. It is then damped over, first by passing a moist clean sponge, or wide brush, round the edges of the paper about an inch and a half on, and afterwards thoroughly damping the whole surface, except the edges. Other plans of damping answer equally well; it is only necessary to observe that the edges of the paper should not be quite so damp as the other part of the surface. After the paper is thoroughly damped, it is left until the wet gloss entirely disappears; it is then turned over and put in its position on the board. About half an inch of the edge of the paper is then turned up against a flat ruler, and a glue-brush with hot glue passed between the turned-up edge and the board; the ruler is then drawn over the glued edge and pressed along. If upon removing the ruler the paper is found not to be thoroughly close, a paper-knife or similar article passed over it will secure perfect contact. The next adjoining edge must be treated in like manner, and so on each consecutive edge, until all be secured. The contraction of the paper in drying should leave the surface quite flat and solid. Cutting Pencils.-If the point is intended for sketching, it is cut equally from all sides, to produce a perfectly acute cone. If this be used for line drawing, the tip will be easily broken, or otherwise it soon wears thick; thus, it is much better for line drawing to have a thin flat point. The general manner of proceeding is, first, to cut the pencil, from two sides only, with a long slope, so as to produce a kind of chisel-end, and afterwards to cut the other sides away only sufficient to be able to round the first edge a little. A point cut in the manner described may be kept in good order for some time by pointing the lead upon a small piece of fine sandstone or fine glass-paper; this will be less trouble than the continual B |