Gate, and while passing through, it is necessary to take off the hat. Near here is a circular stone platform, surrounded by a low parapet, where criminals were formerly executed.

The most ancient portion of Moscow, is called the White City, and is surrounded by a wall, at one of the gates of which is placed a celebrated image of the Virgin, covered with diamonds and other jewels of great value. This image, which is endowed according to popular belief with miraculous virtues, is often carried to sick persons in their houses, and there is a copy with paste diamonds and false jewels, which does duty at home during the absence of the original, and which is found, we may presume, to be equally efficacious

Near the Holy Gate of the Kremlin, stands the church of Saint Basil, an ancient building, remarkable, not only for the singularity of its architecture and its spiral ornaments, but also for the fate of the architect, whose eyes were put out, as soon as he had completed the work, by his master, John the Cruel, in order that he might never build anything else like it.

One of the most remarkable modern buildings in Moscow, is the Exercise-House, a magnificent room, in which troops of all arms are drilled and manœuvred in winter. Eight thousand men can, I am told, be exercised in it at once. The floor is covered with fine gravel, and the room is effectually warmed by means of stoves at the corners and sides. Its

dimensions are about five hundred and sixty feet by a hundred and forty-five, with a proportionable height, and the roof is ingeniously supported without the aid of pillars. I was not so much struck by the immense size of this gigantic room on first entering, as when afterwards on casting my eyes around I saw here and there carts bringing in fresh gravel or water for laying the dust, which called my attention to the enormous proportions of the building in which they were employed.

I should have observed that when we visited the palace, the servants who showed us over it, refused to take any money for their trouble, alleging that they were strictly forbidden to do so.

To-morrow we start for Tamboff, about three hundred and eighty miles to the south, where, as you know, we intend to pass the winter with M-'s eldest brother. He has sent his carriage for us, with a trusty servant well accustomed to travelling, whom we shall doubtless find highly useful upon the road. On a long Russian journey two servants are very desirable, one to relieve the other; or on arriving at a station, one to busy himself in getting fresh horses, while the other is in attendance on the travellers.

Our passport is in due order, our padoroshna is procured, and the weather promises to be extremely favourable: a matter of no small importance, as I am told that after heavy rains, the road we have to

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traverse is almost impassable in some places, from the depth of mud. There are large tracts of land near Tamboff, in which not a stone is to be found, and where no materials therefore for roads can be procured. I shall write again soon after we get to our journey's end, and as we shall after this remain stationary for some time, I shall probably take the opportunity now and then of sending you some general accounts of the country and the people, in default of any adventures of our own.

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LETTER IX.

Russian autumn-Journey from Moscow to Tamboff-Accident on the road-Eclipse of the moon-A coach and nine-Character of the country 'near Tamboff-Game-Difference between a country life in Russia and in England-Scarcity of books-CensorshipWant of country amusements-Want of independence-Law of inheritance-Relative position of master and serf-Description of a country place-Furniture and interior arrangements-Nature of property-Management of peasants-Their character and habits-Fasts-Manufactories established by landed proprietorsVersatility of the Russians-Apprenticing children-Household industry.

Rascazava, near Tamboff, October 27th, 1837. ALTHOUGH according to the calendar it is but autumn, and you in England may be still enjoying warm days, I confess I feel here much inclined to believe it is winter, at the same time that I allow it to be a winter by no means disagreeable. While we were at Moscow, we had ten degrees of frost by Reaumur, and since we came here, we have had some days almost equally cold. This temperature has, however, been generally compensated by a bright sun, and I am in no way disposed to complain of the season. The Russians will not allow that winter has begun,

however cold it may be, until the snow has fallen and sledging has commenced.

We left Moscow, according to our intentions, on Wednesday, the 11th of this month, in the afternoon, and travelling day and night without stopping, we arrived at this house on the Saturday at the same hour, having been exactly three days on the road. Here M and I met with a most warm reception from her brother and his wife, who are exceedingly kind, and with whom we spend our time most comfortably and pleasantly. In the course of the first stage from Moscow, we met with an accident which at first looked rather formidable, though in the end no one was hurt, and we were soon enabled to proceed.

The road had been for some time sandy and heavy, so that we had gone at a gentle pace, till in a long straggling village, about twelve miles from Moscow, we suddenly increased our speed, and presently found ourselves driving along at full gallop; we had not, however, proceeded far in this manner, before the carriage was stopped with a jerk, and we at the same time heard a violent cracking of wood. The door of the carriage was instantly opened, and we got out, when we beheld a very curious scene. On one side was a tilèga half upset, with a man and a woman thrown out of it into a ditch, but happily unhurt; and the horses which drew it, struggling sometimes up and sometimes down, entangled in their harness.