the fatigue of standing during the whole time is very great.

On the Saturday night, about eleven o'clock, I went again to the Kazan church to see Easter Sunday ushered in. There was a sort of illumination in the streets, earthen lamps being placed in rows on the edge of the foot-pavement; but the light which they produced was far from brilliant; the lamps were wide apart, and the effect very paltry, as you may suppose. There was an unusual bustle in the whole town; the pavements were crowded with foot passengers, and a ceaseless stream of carriages, with lighted lamps, was rolling along.

Inside the church, near the door, were two stalls for the sale of wax candles of various sizes, and these could scarcely be furnished fast enough to supply the demand; for almost every person who entered, bought at least one taper, and many provided themselves with five or six: they did not, however, light them as yet, but kept them in readiness for midnight. After looking for some time at the crowd which kept moving in and out of the church, I went and stood in front of it until, at half-past eleven, a rocket was sent up, and a gun fired from the fortress: this being a signal for divine service to commence in all the churches in Petersburg. I did not hear the second gun which the fortress fired at midnight to announce the commencement of Easter-day; but all the people immediately lighted their candles, and a procession

issued from the church, and made the circuit of its walls outside; the ecclesiastics who headed it bearing the cross and sacred banners, and chaunting a service, and the congregation following them with lighted tapers.

I observed that many of the common people in the crowd had in their hands what appeared to be plates tied up in napkins, and I find that this was the first meat which they intended to eat on the conclusion of Lent, and which they brought to church according to an ancient custom, to be blessed by the priests.

I should have told you that on Good Friday all the Court go, the gentlemen as usual in uniform, but the ladies in deep mourning,―to kiss the representation of our Saviour's tomb in the Palace chapel. On Easter Sunday nothing goes on but felicitations, presenting of eggs (the emblem of the Resurrection), and kissing. Servants may kiss their masters or mistresses; and a peasant may kiss the Emperor, though I should doubt whether in the latter case the privilege is often exercised. "Christos voscress," "Christ is risen," is the universal salutation; and it is a curious thing to see two peasants or tradesmen meet in the street: "Christos voscress," they cry out; then off go their hats and caps; and then with one accord they rush together and inflict on one another three kisses*

*The custom of men kissing one another is as common in Russia as in Germany. Gentlemen hardly ever presume to shake hands

on the cheek,-right, left, right; after this each replaces his hat, first making a most profound bow to the other, and they separate. There is a story told of the present Emperor, who it is said, on Easter-day passing a sentry, saluted him as usual with the words "Christ is risen.” "No; he's not, your Majesty," said the soldier, presenting arms. "He's not!" said the Emperor; "what do you mean? this is Easter Sunday." "I know that, please your

Majesty," replied the man; "but I am a Maho

metan."

The Russians, high and low, are great observers of times and seasons; and custom requires that at Easter, as well as at Christmas, all persons should visit their acquaintances to congratulate them on the occasion of the festival. Several carriages broke down last week, in the performance of this arduous duty, for the streets were in a terrible state, and some almost impassable, owing to the thaw, the snow not having entirely disappeared, but being worn into deep holes, which of course were full of water. On Easter Sunday, I saw a few sledges for the last time.

Opposite to the Admiralty, in the open place, large wooden booths had been erected for theatrical and other exhibitions, and in front of the booths were what are called katchellies, namely, swings, merry-go

with ladies, even if they are intimate acquaintances; in lieu of this, the gentleman kisses the lady's hand, while she at the same time puts her lips to his cheek. This custom is on the decline at Petersburg.

rounds, and similar inventions which were in full play during the whole of Easter-week. On the three last days there was a carriage promenade in front of the katchellies; and in the throng a string of twenty coaches-and-six, followed by six outriders, was conspicuous. The carriages were plain and neat, painted green, and all exactly alike, with handsome powerful horses, equipped in heavy German harness, and the coachman, postillions, footmen, and outriders, dressed in scarlet great coats with capes, cocked hats, leather breeches, and jack boots. The coachmen were evidently not much accustomed to driving four-in-hand,* and an English whip would hardly have admired their manner of handling the reins. These were court equipages, and each carriage contained six young ladies belonging to the public institutions or schools at Petersburg, under the patronage of the. Empress, who annually bestows this indulgence upon the pupils.

The last and gayest of the promenades took place, according to custom, the day before yesterday, being the Sunday after Easter: it was attended by the court, and all the fashionable world, and every vehicle in Petersburg was placed in requisition. We remained at our windows, and we could not have been better placed, as, owing to the police regulations, all the carriages were obliged to pass down our street,

* The horses were driven, not in the Russian style, but in English, or rather German fashion.

in order to enter the Admiralty Place, and from about half-past five in the evening, the stream for two hours was incessant. Soon after six o'clock, the officers of the regiment of Gardes à cheval, who had been gradually assembling, drew up under our windows in scarlet uniforms, waiting to escort the Emperor, who in the course of half an hour drove up as usual in a plain open carriage with a pair of horses, accompanied by his eldest son. They stopped opposite to us, threw off their cloaks, and appeared in the same uniform as the officers in attendance: an aidede-camp brought the Emperor his horse, which he mounted, and his son following his example, he saluted right and left, and rode on, followed by the Gardes à cheval. As they disappeared under the arch of the Etat Major, the Empress with her three daughters turned into the street, at the other end, and passed down it in a handsome open carriage-andfour, with two postillions in English style, followed by two outriders dressed exactly like the postillions, in blue-and-silver jackets, and velvet caps, and escorted by a party of officers of the Chevaliers Gardes. The evening was exceedingly fine, and the scene was altogether very gay and lively.

As it was known that the Emperor would mount his horse in that spot, a great crowd was assembled to see him: and I could not help being struck by the manner in which he was received, though I am told it was exactly in accordance with his own wishes.