come to see the falls, in mine, and all three proceeded to the extremity. The lady instantly retreated, unable to bear the sight for a minute; and Mr. Bray was not long after her, seeing the effect produced on his nerves was too painful to be long supported, for the whole roaring torrent appears to be advancing to pour upon the individual, who gazes upon it with wonder and with awe. The gentlemen, notwithstanding the cloaks, had a tolerable shower-bath, and I was very wet, but we were all glad that we had seen the cataract from the balcony; and never till I thus stood, as it were, in the very jaws of the Falls of the Rhine, did I fully feel the force of that passage in the Book of Moses," All the fountains of the great deep were broken up!" I could now imagine what must have been the chaos and the terrors of the Deluge.

I mentioned that two large masses of rock stand in the midst of the river, which divide it into three falls from shore to shore. The breadth of the Rhine just above the cataract is three hundred feet; and on one of these picturesque piles of rock is seen a most absurd wooden figure

of St. Christopher! How the saint got there puzzles me to conjecture, as no boat can approach the spot; yet I was told he had been so elevated as an offering by some of the boatmen of the Rhine. I think my nephew told me something about the way he had been put up, but not remembering the particulars I cannot give them.

The Rhine, after its falls, at no great distance from the scene becomes comparatively tranquil and calm, and strangers are conducted from the balcony along its banks for some little way, to a spot where a boat awaits to row them across the river, that they may see the cataract, the rocks, the precipice, and the castle of Lauffen piled on the top, from the opposite shore. There stands a square tower called Worth, to which the boat makes its course.

We

got into her, and as we did not go near any eddies, nor pass any rapids, we had not so much tossing as I expected. Still I should not be very fond of frequently embarking on this part of the Rhine; for however careful the boatmen may be, they cannot always guard against acci

dent, where there is so much risk in case of imprudence or of error in the passage. In the town of Worth, a young damsel showed us the Falls of the Rhine in a camera obscura. I very much preferred the sight of the thing itself to this obscured image of it; yet it was curious. After visiting these celebrated falls, we returned to Schaffhausen, - the landscape around becoming more and more beautiful as the evening approached.

I was so fatigued that I did not go out again, but my husband and nephew walked about the town, and went to the public walks, with which they were much pleased. On their return, my nephew presented me with a beautiful crucifix in glass, saying laughingly as he did so, that he begged me to accept it in memory of the Protestant town of Schaffhausen. It was a curious piece of workmanship: a small figure of our Saviour on the cross, in silver, was introduced within the large glass cross, that was supported on a pedestal, and appeared to have been cast in a mould. The whole was extremely beautiful, and had much the appearance of an icicle.

This was not my only present as a memorial of Schaffhausen, for my husband gave me an ornamented work-box, cut in wood by the Swiss peasantry; it was as exquisitely carved as if executed in ivory. Both these gifts, I rejoice to say, I brought with me safe to England.

We arranged our progress for the next day, when we were to continue our journey to Zurich. Here then I pause, with the assurance that I am,

Dear Brother,

Ever affectionately yours,
ANNA ELIZA Bray.

LETTER XI.

TO A. J. KEMPE, ESQ., F.S.A.

Adieu to Schaffhausen. - Magnificent Scenery. — Eglisau. Bulach. Swiss Bridges. ·

Zurich. Hotel Baur. Gessner. Fuseli. Peculi

arities of his Genius as a Painter.

his William Tell. Zurich.

Anecdote of

The Beauty of its

Situation. Town, &c. An Evening Scene on the Lake. - A Visit to the Public Library. Lady Jane Grey.

Curious Gothic Pictures.

Lavater. His Death. · Buried at Zurich.

My dear Brother,

WE quitted Schaffhausen early on the morning of the 12th of July. The day was delightful, and so was the drive, though I shall give you few particulars concerning it, for we are now in Switzerland, a land where the beautiful, the sublime, and the picturesque present themselves under such a boundless variety of forms, and shapes, and hues, that, unless it is here and there, when I must, by the very singularity