ing hands were covered with sparkling diamonds. Fancy our surprise, when we saw moving on, in this venerable group, a hat (fac-simile of an opera hat) of puce velvet, handsomely trimmed with silver. I revolved in my mind that it must be an insignia of the Roman senator, representative of the people—even the beloved flock of this kind shepherd. But no! this curious object was nothing but a hat blessed by the Pope, to be sent to the King of Spain. Then came flapping on, with a solemn frightful motion, two immense fans, formed of large ostrich feathers, taken from birds, bred (according to tradition) in early ages, and used by the holy high priests, the Roman emperors -reminding one of the superstitious horrors of the Obi amidst the poor ignorant blacks of Africa; and beyond this, in the dim distance, was seen, in solemn entry, the Pope. On his head was the triple crown; on his body, the finest decoration of the worm; and in his countenance, impotence. He bent his poor withered head to the right and left-sat aloft, lifting his shrivelled hand to indicate his worthless blessing; and he who sat on high, entering the temple of God as God, amidst kneeling adorers, could, after all, look like nothing but a silly old woman. He moved on, amidst the profound prostrations of the people, to his high throne; and the cardinals advanced. The poor creature was helped out, and placed on its throne. The cardinals took their places to the right and left; the priests surrounded the high altar; and the high pontifical mass began the choristers bursting forth in Latin strains. Incense and perfumes encompassed the Pope, and, burning on every side, threw their insulting smoke towards heaven, whilst a fine sunbeam, crossing the vast area of St. Peter's, seemed at that moment the

only created thing that spoke of God-that proclaimed his Majesty that recalled the infinite condescension of Him. who was the brightness of his Father's glory.

Beneath this glorious ray, the pope, supported by the cardinals, advanced to the altar. The host was elevated. Pope, and priests, and people, fell prostrate before a wafer! Yes, from far and near-the rich and poor-the soldier and the slave-the needy pilgrim from the Abruzzian mountains, and the ambassadors of kings-all, all adored! Surely there is merriment in hell at such a sight, while angels mourn!

It is, then, true—an outward idol, or an inward figment of intellectual vanity, is worshipped throughout creation! Every thing but the living and true God! Such is the fact the cause is unveiled when the Scripture presents its mirror. The human heart is then seen wholly turned from its Creator, and all its affections and faculties resting on something else. The scepticism of the Greeks, the idolatry of the Romans, the superstition of the Catholic, and the proud reasoning of the English Pharisee, are all discovered in this averted heart. This is the sad cause of all our woe. But when the Spirit enables a man to hear the sweet voice of mercy, saying, “My son, give me thy heart," and to reply, "Take that thine is," it is finished,there is no more allowed idolatry. God, revealed by the only begotten of the Father, is made known; he is believed, loved, and obeyed.

CHAPTER XI.

The Tower of the Capitol-Seven Hills of Rome-a Survey of the Palatine-St. John Lateran-La Santa Croce the Ruins of the Temple of Minerva Medica.

OUR next visit was to the tower of the Capitol, which stands like a pharos between two ages of the world. The desire to become acquainted with the Seven Hills of Rome is a restless feeling when one has entered its walls. From this tower on the Capitoline, its ancient magnificence and its present limits are seen. Following the circle of the horizon on the north, was Mons Marius, the country of the Veientes, and the Sabine range; then followed Soracte, the Tiburtine, and the lofty Alban mount. Contracting your circle, the Palatine is seen in the north-east. Rome seems buried where she rose. This illustrious mount is now covered with ruins, vineyards, and gardens. It is now a Neapolitan possession, having passed, with the Farnese family, to another kingdom; and what was once the cradle of Rome, is as divided as its empire; and walls alone are seen where the town of Romulus, and the golden palaces of the Cæsars, stretched over the Palatine, the Cœlian, and the Esquiline hills.

On the north-east is the Quirinal-on its top, that remarkable pine which has, for five hundred years, shadowed the dark Neronian tower. On the opposite side is the vast palace of the pontiff. On this Quirinal mount, Atticus, the friend of Cicero, the family of Cornelia, and the poet Martial

dwelt. Turning one's eye to the south-east, the Cœlian hill rises where once stood the Claudian temple. In the vast field beneath, the fane of Minerva, the Claudian and other aqueducts, St. John Lateran, Santa Maria della Croce, with their fine pinnacles, strike the eye, mixed with obelisks and pines. On the south is the Aventine. The wild den of the robber is now the monastic cell; and the birds fly at large over the grave of Remus, unable longer to change his unalterable destiny. On the south-east is the Viminal, covered with the ruins of the baths of Diocletian. On the east is the Esquiline-the Parnassus of the Latin muse. Here dwelt Mææcenas, and Horace, and Virgil, and Propertius; and, to prolong its fame, it was hence that Pliny sent forth his more than Sybilline leaves.

Bounding the seven-hilled city, on the north, is the Pincian mount, once the Collis Hortulorum of Lucullus, and of Sallust. On the west, over the yellow waters of the Tiber, rises the Janiculum, and gardens still occupy the site of those that were Cæsar's. Immediately under your feet, to the north, is the Campus Martius, now covered with modern Rome; her domes and palaces reposing in solemn grandeur, begirt with gloomy pines.

THE PALATINE.

Having wearied our guide with questions, and being ashamed of detaining him longer, we went down on that side of the Capitoline, called "Il Capri," once the site of the citadel, and creeping down to the base of the Tarpeian, perceived its height, and the nature of its rock, which is peperino-then crossing the Forum, up the Via Sacra, we turned to the right, and ascended through the Farnesian garden, all in ruins, to take a complete survey of the Pala

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tine.

THE PALATINE.

Making our way through briars and thorns, we

amused ourselves with recalling the walks of Eneas over

this spot, and the words of the venerable Evander.

"These woods were first the seat of Sylvan powers,
Of nymphs and fawns, and savage men, who took
Their birth from trunks of trees, and stubborn oak;
Nor laws they knew, nor manners; nor the care
Of labouring oxen, or the shining share,
Nor arts of gain, nor what they gained, to spare;
Their exercise the chase; the running flood
Supplied their thirst, the trees supplied their food.
Then Saturn came, who fled the powers of Jove,
Robbed of his realms, and banished from above;
With his mild empire peace and plenty came,
And hence the golden times derived their name;
Then shows the Forest which, in after times,
Fierce Romulus, for perpetrated crimes,

A sacred refuge made; with this the shrine
Where Pan below the rocks had rites divine."

At the very moment when I and my dear compagne de voyage were settling the site of the cave, my foot caught the edge of a circle of marble on the ground, beautifully sculptured with Pan's pipes, and a wreath of the olive and the vine, belonging to an Arcadian society, intended to stimulate to such notes as once found their echo in this mount. We advanced towards the spot where tradition has placed the Ruminal fig-tree, under which Romulus and Remus were found by Faustulus, and we were, at the same moment, looking towards the little temple of Vesta, where the Vestal virgins guarded the sacred fire and the Palladium. The brazen Wolf in the Capitol was found on this spot. Proceeding a few steps,

"Discoursing much together, we resort

Where poor Evander kept his country court.
We view the ground of Rome's litigious hall,
Where oxen lowed, and oft the lawyers bawled ;