its dark promontory finely forward, and tinging the opposite point with its brightest beam. How lovely are these scenes! how blest the being who is the object of the love of the Creator of all these beauties! and yet such a blessed state is not only possible, but the declaration of the apostle affirms, "Ye are all the children of God by faith in Christ Jesus." We quitted this delightful village at five the next morning, and drove along a bay, presenting at every turn varied and fine combinations: sometimes a vast rocky cliff stood bare from the sky to the ocean-sometimes an equal height was covered with the drooping olive-whilst the sea occupied the horizon; again a vast Apennine towered over our heads; and we peeped down a deep ravine, to the dark blue ocean and its snowy foam. About eight miles from Sestri, a noble promontory of one vast slab of slate appeared to stop all further progress; but a passage through two grottoes opens again the way to light, and beauty, and fragrance. Aloes are the general fence; the carriage and ourselves are frequently decked with orange blossoms and myrtle. It is the 17th of May, cloudy, but oppressively warm; the foliage is fully out, and the odour of figs and orange-blossom quite overpowering. We have just passed a small Madonna, (in an oratoire,) three feet high, of Carrara marble, sweetly sculptured; her waist and hair decorated with fine damask roses, and before her an antique burning lamp. We now ascended the Rocca mountain, and observed the countenances of the people decidedly more Spanish; we had turned our back upon the beautiful bay of Sestri, and had scarcely time to express our regret, when we ENTRANCE TO GENOA. 211 drove through a long dark grotto; and on emerging, the noble gulf of Genoa, with its white city and numerous promontories, were before us; the boundary line was at the distance of ninety miles, and its terminating point the Capo di Meli. We stopped at La Grande Bretagne, and the next door was "La Ville de Londres." As we descended the Rocca, we were pursued by children, offering flowers; surely this is one of the most innocent devices of poverty! The gardens here abound with rose-trees-not shrubs; the roses about the size of the rose de Meaux, and in clusters. At Nervi, a prodigiously long town, on the coast, with very high narrow streets, we observed villas to the right, all the way up a high mountain covered with olive trees, and the houses painted with a thousand devices,-red and green; and with the jalousies all shut. It was three o'clock-all the inhabitants taking their siesta-that being the moment when, according to the Italian expression, none are seen about the streets but dogs and Englishmen. The last fifteen miles towards Genoa are more adorned with houses than the painter or poet might wish, but the philanthropist must be pleased with the sight of so much prosperity. Nothing but England at all vies with it in apparent wealth. The entrance to Genoa is very fine; near it, and all around, is a succession of hills covered by foliage, and beyond are the snowy maritime Alps. We have now been viewing and crossing the beauteous Apennines ever since we left Bologna. They begin in this territory of Genoa, near Mount Appio, and stretch away to the kingdom of Naples-ending south-east in Capo di Lucca, and southwest in Calabria, near the strait of Messina. The great 212 ENTRANCE TO GENOA. chain, in the state of Genoa is called Monte S. Imola, and Monte Bergara. The groups or ridges connected with the Apennines rise between the rivers Arno and Chiara, and the Tiber; and all these groups rise from one base called Sub-Apennino di Toscano; the second group has the name Sub-Apennino Romano, and has the valleys of the rivers Salso, Velin, and Vera, to the north, and the Liris to the south, and stretches out to Capo di Gaëta. The country round Vesuvius is called Sub-Apennino Vesuviano; and Monte Gargaro, which arises abruptly on the Adriatic shore, is named Apennino della Puglia; Monte Rocca and Borghetta appear to be serpentine, which is here called Gabbra. Those to the south of Bologna are of stratified grey limestone, and contain a variety of petrifactions; and at Carrara they produce the most beautiful variety of marbles. CHAPTER XV. Genoa-The Fanale-The burial-ground-The gulf of GenoaVegetation-Varigotti-Diano Marina — Oneglia-Romulus and Remus Mentone-Nice. It was the 20th of May when we entered Genoa, with a feeling something like respect, Andrea Doria occupying our thoughts. Destroyed by Carthaginians, by Lombards, and by Saracens, Genoa rises again majestically over its noble bay. Situated in a crescent of the Apennines, it climbs the hills more finely than Naples, but its ocean and its mountains are not so well seen; the palaces are, however, ornamented with columns and marbles, and have a splendid appearance. The king of Sardinia is here. The minor streets are deplorably dark, but all has a prosperous air, and trade proceeds with the vigour and skill belonging to the Dutch or ancient Ligurians. Our stay was too short to allow of our seeing its fine pictures, but we less regretted the loss, as Rome, Naples, and Florence, had already almost satisfied the taste for the arts. We arrived on Saturday, and took up our quarters at the Hôtel des quatre Nations, on the harbour. We are opposite the light-house and the galleys; the prisoners are partly employed in cleaning the harbour, but as there is no tide, the harbour is always full, and its waters are bounded by a high wall, at least twenty feet high, and sufficiently wide for walking three or four abreast. The long projecting foot of an Apennine, on which the Fanale is built, forms a fine boundary for the right side of the harbour; its mouth is seven hundred feet wide. The hospital, called "Albergo dei poveri," is a palace with noble grounds. On Sunday morning, we hastened to the chapel of the consul, to join in the Protestant service. Alas! the chapel was nearly empty; for though so many English live on the hills, the congregation consisted of only twenty persons-twelve of them travellers. We had a poor twenty minutes' sermon from a Mr. B. Hearing that there would be preaching that morning before the king, at the cathedral, we now hastened thither. The sextons were just removing the scarlet and gold-all was over -but the altar still retained its numerous bouquets, and under it was something dazzling bright, a new sun or an image, I forget which, but the people were pressing up to behold and admire it, and in a side chapel, a new image of the Virgin was making its debut. The pavement of the church was as wet as the streets. The cathedral is Gothic, and of black and white marble (I am not fond of this zebra-like skin) within and without; columns of porphyry adorn the naves and chapel of St. Giovanni.-We again made diligent inquiries where there would be preaching, as I felt most anxious to know how these, my fellow men, were instructed. I was told that at five o'clock, a Jesuit would preach at St. Ambrogio; I went.-The church is enriched with marble, gilding, and painting-it was completely full, and the women being all veiled in the Genoese mezzaro, of beautifully fine white muslin, two or three yards long, put on as a scarf over their heads, and just allowing their fine features to be seen-and the organ pouring forth its solemn sounds— the first effect was most striking-and a sad contrast to |