set out with trees and shrubbery, and liberally interspersed with statues and fountains. It was full of gay company. Vesuvius is in full view from our windows, but ever since our arrival has been capped with clouds. The day has been charming, and we have realized what is meant by "the silken climate" of Italy. An Italian said to us at Marseilles, “O, you will find a sweet climate at Naples;" and so we have found. Surely every day cannot be like this.

CHAPTER XI.

IMPROVED HEALTH. — LETTER TO THE BALDWIN PLACE CHURCH. NAPLES.-ROME. NORTHERN ITALY.

1841.

It is evident from the journal of Mr. Stow, that the decision to which he came, to break away from the cares of the ministry, was a wise one. It is easy to see that the tone of his animal spirits is very much raised, that he derives sincere pleasure from sight-seeing, and that he exercises his wonted discrimination in observing the objects which pass under the notice of his eye. We rejoice to see this improvement in his feelings, and predict that in due time he will return to his duties with new strength.

The following communication, addressed to the Baldwin Place Church, indicates the warm affection of the absent pastor for his beloved flock: :

NAPLES, February 10, 1841.

DEARLY BELOved BrethreN AND SISTERS: My last communication to you was dated at London, about twenty days after I bade you a painful and reluctant adieu. I now address you from this classic land, where, at almost every step, I am reminded of by-gone generations, of whose deeds I have all my life been reading, and among the ruins of whose greatness I have long desired to wander. I am writing before a window which faces the beautiful Bay of Naples, and from which I can distinctly see Mount Vesuvius, one of the chimneys of the globe, from whose crater the smoke is continually issuing. I can hardly realize that I am here, looking out upon the Mediterranean, that sea so famed in sacred and profane history—the sea that laves the shores of Greece, Egypt, Asia Minor, and Palestine - the very sea upon which Paul the

LETTER TO HIS CHURCH.

151

prisoner was tempest-tossed when on his way to Rome to sustain his appeal to Cæsar. Yet so it is. By the great goodness of God I am here, and within fifty yards of me the billows of that Mediterranean are breaking upon the beach. A thousand associations rush into my mind, and I am overwhelmed with emotion. Yet, amidst the multiplicity of thoughts and the gush of feelings, there is one prominent thought, there is one master feeling. It is the thought of home - it is the feeling occasioned by a recollection of the endeared objects in that far-off land from which I am a temporary exile. The needle does not more surely turn towards the north than does my heart towards the west.. Many degrees of longitude separate us, but my affection for the people of my charge does not diminish as I recede. I am surrounded by objects of animating interest, which I find pleasure in contemplating; but they do not counteract the attractive force of home, nor will they detain us an hour beyond the time appointed for our return. Were our principal object accomplished, we would gladly turn our faces at once towards the western continent.

Our original purpose, you know, was to visit the Holy Land. We have all along hoped that the political difficulties would be settled in season to allow us to proceed without jeopardy or inconvenience. As yet the prospect is rather discouraging, and we fear that we shall be compelled to relinquish our purpose. At present we could not travel in that country without a military escort—a convenience which we did not bring with us, and which we could not easily command. The disappointment to us will be great, for we had anticipated our highest pleasure in visiting Bethlehem, Nazareth, Jordan, Capernaum, Bethany, Gethsemane, and Calvary. But as matters now are, the hazard attending such a visit is greater than we could prudently run. However pleasant to the Crusaders was the thought of laying their bones in the land of Judea, I confess there is nothing romantic to me in being robbed by a horde of Arabs, or of welcoming among my heart-strings the point of a Turkish sabre. Unless, therefore, we hear of something more favorable touching the condition of Syria, we shall hardly venture into the Levant. In that case Naples will be the utmost limit of our tour. We should be glad to visit Greece, but the attractions there are not of themselves sufficient to induce us to encounter the discomforts of another sea voyage.

Why we did not reach probably have learned

We arrived in this city on the 8th instant. here, as we intended, a month sooner, you will from my letter to the congregation. I was detained at Paris by an illness, which, at one time, rendered it doubtful whether I should be able to proceed another league, but which God in mercy removed, so that, after twenty-six days, I resumed my journey. At Avignon, about five

hundred miles south of Paris, I had another attack, which delayed us, however, only a few days. From Marseilles we came to this place by a steam packet, which touched at Genoa, Leghorn, and Civita Vecchia. We were five days on the passage, which was rather uncomfortable, owing to a heavy, rolling sea, occasioned by southerly winds. We really do not fancy sea life, and shall have as little of it as possible. Our return route will be by land, through the pope's dominions, Tuscany, Lombardy, Sardinia, Switzerland, Germany, Belgium, &c.

The font is

We have seen many interesting objects, from some of which we have gained instruction. I cannot in a single letter do anything at description, and therefore shall not attempt it. But I will just say that, as a Baptist, I was particularly interested in the "Baptistery," at Pisa. That is the name of a splendid circular edifice, which will contain three thousand persons. The architecture is magnificent, and the amount of money expended upon it must have been immense. It stands near the Grand Cathedral, and was erected for the administration of baptism, in those good old days when the ordinance was uncorrupted. in the centre, elevated a little above the floor, with a fountain which supplied a continual stream of pure water. Since the thirteenth century this font has fallen into disuse, and now stands a silent but keen reprover of those who trifle with Christ's institutions. Upon the rim of this font a marble basin has been fitted, from which the little, unconscious candidates are sprinkled. O, if that font had a tongue, how would it speak out, and ask the innovators by what authority they have made the change, and so miserably perverted the significance of the holy rite!

We have visited many cathedrals and churches, and while we have admired the architecture and paintings, we have been displeased and grieved at the ignorance and superstition of both the priests and the people. O, brethren and sisters, bless the Lord that you were born in America! Fail not to appreciate your privileges and your responsibilities.

You will, of course, be gratified to know that I feel encouraged respecting my health. It has improved considerably since I reached a milder climate. Here the air is soft and balmy, and I think the effect will be favorable. The fields are green, farmers are planting their seeds, and roses and other flowers are blooming in the gardens. We have not all the comforts of home, but we have more than we expected. While at Marseilles I received a precious letter from Deacon Beal, dated January 1, which gave a most satisfactory account of your condition and prospects. I rejoice to hear that you continue united. God forbid that any "root of bitterness" should spring up to trouble you, that any heresy should creep in to lead any astray, that any of you

THE TRAVELLER'S RECORD.

153

should be driven about by winds of doctrine. Dearly beloved, I am persuaded better things of you, and things that accompany salvation, though I thus speak. "Faithful is he that hath called you," and I am confident that he will keep you from schism, and error, and defection. I beseech you, keep the cords of discipline straight. Deal kindly with one another, and yet faithfully. Seek for the peace and purity of the body. Hold together. Work together. Be one in heart, one in action, and the God of love and peace will be with you.

The younger members of the flock, my own dear children in the Lord, I exhort to abide true and faithful to their profession. Cultivate acquaintance with the older members. Seek their society, follow their counsel. Ye" are my joy and the crown of my rejoicing in the day of the Lord Jesus."

I long to hear that sinners are converted among you, and hope, immediately on my return, to have many to bury in baptism. I have not preached a sermon since I left home, nor performed any other public service. Months will elapse before I shall be where a congregation could understand me.

Now, beloved, once more adieu. Pray, pray for us. You have our constant prayers. "The grace of our Lord Jesus Christ be with

you all."

With unwavering attachment,

Your absent pastor,

BARON STOW.

Other and similar letters may have been written by the absent pastor to his church; but if so, they have been mislaid. Fortunately the record of his movements is so full, that we are able to supply every deficiency in this respect. We have read not a few books of travel, the scene of which was laid in the fair, classic land of Italy; but we think the record of the wanderings of our pilgrim friend will compare favorably with that of any other traveller. We are to keep in mind that he was an invalid; that excitement and fatigue affected his sensitive brain, and often prostrated his spirits. The life of a busy sight-seer is one which, while it is full of richest enjoyment, makes a peculiar draft on the vital energies. After a long, wearisome, and most active day of running about a great city, and viewing its objects of interest, it is not always easy to sit down at the late evening hours, and carefully and elegantly pen down the results of the day's work. Nowhere,