TOMATOES

C. C. HULSART, MATAWAN, MONMOUTH COUNTY, N. J.

HISTORY

In an article of this kind it is interesting to note the history of the tomato, its gradual rise in popularity and the rapidity with which new varieties appeared when once its position was assured. Originally an American contribution to horticulture, it was first used as food by the Latin races of Europe.

Philip Miller in his Gardeners' Dictionary, 1731, says, "The Italians and Spaniards eat their apples (love apples) as we do cucumbers with pepper, oil and salt and some eat them stewed in sauces, etc., but, considering their great moisture and coldness, the nourishment they afford must be bad. In New Orleons they were used in catsup as early as 1779, but in the English colonies tomatoes were planted only as ornaments, under the name of "love apples."

In 1798 the tomato was introduced near Philadelphia but was not sold as a vegetable until about 1829. In 1836, however, it had begun to be popular as food. Thomas Bridgman, in his Kitchen Gardeners' Instructor, tells us that at this time the tomato was used in sauces as desert, as a substitute for peaches, and that it also made excellent pies and tarts. There were only two varieties, however, the large red and the cherry.

Their use gradually increased, and in 1841 "they had become almost an indispensable dish through the summer months on every table." In 1847 there were six or seven varieties, with but little difference in them. By 1860 hundreds of acres were planted with this fruit in the vicinity of Philadelphia alone, and some efforts had been made to secure improved sorts, a smooth kind being especially desired. Shortly before 1860 a large,

smooth, red variety became popular. At this time there were, besides the yellow and cherry kinds, but four varieties, and only two of these were widely known.

In 1865 the tomato was a universal favorite. It had become a commercial staple and one thousand acres are said to have been devoted to its cultivation in the neighborhood of Philadelphia. During that year the Tilden appeared and at once took first rank.

This variety was introduced by Henry Tilden of Davenport, Iowa. In the next five years the Maupoy, Foard, Eureka, Cook's Favorite, Boston Market, Dixey, Crimson Cluster, and General Grant were introduced, the General Grant being the best of the number and a really good tomato. In these five years more varieties were brought forward than had been known during the preceding fifty. The canning industry consumed thousands of bushels, and the interest in the tomato was widespread.

For many years lovers of the tomato had been selecting seed in order to improve the existing sorts and the new varieties were the outcome of this work. The best variety introduced up to that time was the Trophy, introduced in 1870 by Colonel George E. Waring of Ogden Farm, Newport, R. I., who was a farmer and a sanitary engineer. The time was ripe for a tomato of a new type, one which would be large and early, and, above all, with a regular apple-like form. The Trophy came at the right time and it was the right thing. Its success was assured it was unbounded. It was almost the making of modern tomato culture. The Trophy was the result of twenty-three years of careful selection and in spite of the high price ($5 for 20 seeds) it was soon widely distributed and became a universal favorite. From six varieties in 1860 the number increased to' thirty in 1880 and by the opening of the twentieth century American seedsmen were cataloguing about 250 varieties. Of these, possibly 50 may be distinct and better than the Trophy.

The evolution of the tomato in less than a century has been exceeded by no other fruit or vegetable. Today we have upwards of three hundred strains and varieties so varied that some of them must suit the most skeptical. We have in colors various shades of red; then we have the pinks and deeper purple varieties. These are very popular in certain markets but tender in flesh and poor carriers if allowed to ripen before shipping. Furthermore, we have several shapes and shades of the yellow varieties. These last are only valuable for preserving, and can not be disposed of in large quantities. Eliminating the yellow sorts, the red and purple varieties may well be divided into three classes the early sorts, the medium and the late. In some tomato growing sections the early and medium early varieties are all that are considered

because these varieties are more valuable when marketed than any of the late sorts. This is generally the case when the location is within easy shipping distance of some large city. On the other hand, where the cost of shipping is too great, the late varieties are grown for canning purposes or for making catsup.

GROWING EARLY TOMATOES

The early crop although the most expensive to grow is at the same time the most profitable where it can be grown successfully

and marketed economically, but it requires far more skill to produce it. First, the seeds must be planted in a manure hotbed or greenhouse about two and one-third months prior to the time the plants can be planted out in the field. They are grown in the seed bed until about five weeks old and then transplanted to cold frames. The beds must be made by using about three inches of manure (new horse manure preferred) on which is placed five

inches of good soil and raked level. This soil should be made up of about one fourth rotted animal manure and three fourths loamy soil, and should be worked over together before placing on the beds.

When the beds are completed and raked level, mark off four and one-half inches each way for the first early sorts; set the little seedling plants in each cross or check, being careful not to set the plant below the seed leaves. Deep planting is dangerous at this season of the year. As fast as plants are set put on sashes, and, if much wilting occurs, shade the glass for a day or two during the warm part of the day. As soon as the plants begin growing give plenty of air by raising the sashes, and when the weather becomes warm remove them altogether. This gives a strong and hardy plant that will stand conditions when set in the field.

The cold frame beds will soon dry out and require watering. At first, while plants are young, light waterings will answer, but as the plants become larger more copious wettings will be required. One good wetting that penetrates deep into the soil is worth two or three light ones that moisten the soil only half an inch.

Plants in cold frames should be in full bud and an occasional bloom in five weeks after setting. The last week, or at least four or five days prior to removing to the field, sashes should be removed entirely both day and night to allow the plants to harden. For the same purpose they should not be watered during this period.

The early tomato crop can not be grown to advantage on heavy soil as it warms up too slowly in spring; hence a sandy or sandy loam soil is essential for best results, and the soil need not be very rich.

MANURE AND FERTILIZERS

If the soil is too rich a heavy vine growth will be the result at the expense of fruit. Rather start with a comparatively poor soil and then feed with animal manures spread broadcast before plowing at the rate of eight to ten tons per acre, after which use three hundred pounds of some high-grade fertilizer in the hill under the plants, incorporating it well with the soil before setting out the plants. A fertilizer made up from high-grade materials