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SCHÖLBERG and WALLIS. Chemical Changes produced in Milk by Bacteria and Their Relation to the Epidemic Diarrhoea of Infants. Governments Board's Medical Officers' Report, 1911, pages 504-543 (1911).

WHITAKER. The Extra Cost of Producing Clean Milk. United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Circular 170 (1911).

AYERS. The Pasteurization of Milk. United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Circular 184 (1912).

HOPKINS. Influence of Accessory Constituents of Diet upon Growth. Journal of Physiology, Vol. 44, pages 425-460 (1912).

JORDAN. The Case for Pasteurization. Journal of the American Medical Association, Vol. 59, pages 1450-1457 (1912).

New York Milk Committee. Infant Mortality and Milk Stations, Special Report (1912).

Report of the Commission on Milk Standards. United States Public Health Service, Public Health Reports, Reprint No. 78 (1912).

ROGERS. Bacteria in Milk. United States Department of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin 490 (1912).

ROGERS and DAVIS. Methods of Classifying the Lactic Acid Bacteria. United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Bulletin 154 (1912).

ROGERS. Directions for the Home Pasteurization of Milk. United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Circular 197 (1912).

SCHORER. Experimental Studies on Milk, with Especial Reference to the Uniformity of Different Grades of Milk and the Effects of Storage upon Certified, Inspected, and Pasteurized Milks. Journal of Infectious Diseases, Vol. 11, pages 295-337 (1912).

AYERS and JOHNSON. A Study of the Bacteria which Survive Pasteurization. United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Bulletin 161 (1913).

ECKLES and SHAW. Influence of Breed and Individuality and the Stage of Lactation, upon the Composition and Properties of Milk. United States Department of Agriculture, Bureau of Animal Industry, Bulletins 155, 156, 157 (1913).

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spection of the State Board of Health. Journal of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, Vol. 5, pages 922–927 (1913).

SCHRYVER. On the Clotting of Milk. Proceedings of the Royal Society, London, Series B, Vol. 86, pages 460-481 (1913).

United States Public Health Service. Second Report of Commission on Milk Standards. Public Health Reports, Vol. 38, pages 1733-1756 (August 22, 1913).

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BOWEN. The Cost of Pasteurizing Milk and Cream. United States Department of Agriculture, Bulletin 85 (1914).

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PALMER and COOLIDGE. Lactochrome, the Yellow Pigment of Milk Whey. Journal of Biological Chemistry, Vol. 17, pages 251-264 (1914). SCHROEDER. Dirt Sediment Testing A Factor in Obtaining Clean Milk. American Journal of Public Health, Vol. 4, pages 50-64 (1914). TILLMANNS, SPLITTGERBER and RIFFERT. Determination and Significance of the Ammonia Content of Milk. Zeitschrift für Untersuchung der Nahrungs und Genussmittel, Vol. 27, pages 59–76 (1914).

CHAPTER IV

CHEESE AND MISCELLANEOUS MILK PRODUCTS

Cheese

CHEESE was probably the first product manufactured from milk and the first form in which milk was preserved for future

use.

It has for centuries been an important article of diet in many countries, and is made in a great variety of forms. A recent compilation by Doane and Lawson describes no less than 350 varieties of cheese.

Until the middle of the last century the making of cheese was a household or farm industry. The first cheese factory was started by Jesse Williams, a farmer of Oneida County, New York, who, finding that his cheese sold readily at more than the average price, began in 1851 to buy the milk of his neighbors and manufacture cheese from it as well as from the milk produced on his own farm. Within fifteen years his example had been followed to such an extent that there were about five hundred cheese factories in New York State alone.

It is estimated that in 1850 there was made in the United States about 100,000,000 pounds of cheese, all of it on farms or in the household; in 1900, about 300,000,000 pounds, of which 96 to 97 per cent was made in factories.

The census of manufactures of 1909 (which of course would not include the cheese made on farms) estimates the production for the United States at about 311,000,000 pounds worth at wholesale at the factory $43,000,000. The amount of cheese

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FIG. 6. Distribution of dairy cows in the United States (census of 1910). Reproduced by permission from Director's Report of the Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station.

imported exceeded that exported by about 29,000,000 pounds. The cheese consumption in this country was therefore about 3 to 4 pounds per person per year, a low figure in comparison with the amounts of meat and butter consumed. During the past few years the United States Department of Agriculture has given considerable attention to the cheese industry and to the use of cheese as a food, and it is probable that this will result in a larger per capita consumption of cheese for the country as a whole.

Cheese is roughly divided into two main types: the hard cheeses such as Cheddar, Edam, Emmental (or Swiss), Parmesan and Roquefort; and the soft cheeses such as Brie, Camembert, Gorgonzola, Limburg, Neufchâtel, and Stilton.

Much the largest part of the cheese made in this country is of the type of the Cheddar cheese and is therefore properly known as American Cheddar cheese, although frequently called simply " American cheese " or, in the trade, “standard factory cheese." In addition to this standard type of cheese smaller quantities of other types are made. Some New York factories make cheeses of the Brie, Camembert, and Neufchâtel types, while cheeses of the Swiss and of the Limburg types are made in Wisconsin.

The principal importations of cheese into the United States are of Parmesan and Gorgonzola cheese from Italy; Emmental cheese from Switzerland; Roquefort, Camembert, and Brie, from France; and Edam cheese from Holland. Many other varieties are imported in small amounts. Since these cheeses are imported largely as delicacies, they are more costly than standard American cheese.

The chief cheese-producing states are New York and Wisconsin, the main cheesemaking centers very nearly coinciding with the regions having greatest numbers of dairy cows as shown on the accompanying map (Fig. 6).

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