Lindley recommends the operation of cross fertilization to be performed early in the morning of a dry day; about sun-rise is a good time to begin, and before the blossom is entirely expanded; the pollen being at that time humid, is closely attached to the anthers. The blossoms must be carefully opened and the anthers extracted by delicate scissors, care being taken not to wound the filaments or any other part of the flower. This being done, the matured pollen from another variety must be carefully placed on the blossom which it is intended to fertilize, and from which the anthers have been extracted; and this operation must be repeated twice or three times in the course of the day. By shaking the blossoms over a sheet of white paper, the time when it is perfectly matured will be ascertained. It is necessary to protect the prepared blossom from bees and other insects with thin book-muslin, or gauze, till a swelling is perceived in the germ. When the process has been successful, the pollen which has been placed on the stigma becomes so attached that it cannot be removed with a hair pencil; it changes form and colour, and soon disappears, and the blossom will soon wither and fade; but when the process has been imperfect, the pollen is easily detached from the stigma, its appearance is unaltered, and it remains visible with the duration of the flower, which will continue a long time.

For further information on these subjects, see Outlines of the First Principles of Horticulture, pages 120 to 140 of the second part of this work.

FEBRUARY.

Without 'tis a desert, too bleak for a ram,

Within we have one-merely Apples and Jam,
Preserved for the season, with skill and with care,
By the hands of the thrifty, the good, and the fair!

As the season for pruning fruit trees and vines com-
mences in the various parts of our country at different
periods, according to the climate, I would submit a few
general remarks on the subject, with a view to prepare the
gardener for the performance of the work in a skilful man-
ner, and at the proper season; for be it remembered that
untimely or injudicious pruning may produce injury instead
of benefit, and in many cases defeat the real object of the
operation.

Having given ample directions for the cultivation of the
various species of fruit, I would recommend the novice to
peruse every article before he enters upon the work of the
garden; he will there discover that no single rule will apply
to every kind of fruit; first, because the mode of bearing is
different in almost every distinct species; secondly, because
the sap rises earlier and continues longer in the branches of
some species than in others; and thirdly, because some
trees, as the Plum for instance, is apt to gum, if pruned too
soon in the season, and the grape vine to bleed if delayed
too long. For the above, and other reasons that may be
given, the gardener should examine all his fruit trees fre-
quently in this month, with his implements at hand, and if
circumstances will not admit of a general pruning, he may
cut off dead branches, and clear trees from moss and canker,
also search for the nests of insects, and destroy them while
in a torpid state. This will assist the natural efforts of the
trees, in casting off the crude and undigested juices, which
if confined in them will in a short time destroy them, or
some of their branches.

As soon as the severity of the winter is over, the hardy

and half hardy grape-vines should be judiciously pruned, by
cutting out old branches which produced fruit the preceding
year, as well as all superfluous and weak young shoots,
leaving the strong summer shoots for bearers the coming
season, which should be judiciously trained as recommended
in articles, pages 21 and 72.

In pruning all descriptions of trees, some general rules
may be observed. In cutting out defective branches,
prune close to the healthy wood, and also shorten such
shoots as have been injured by the winter, to the full extent,
or even a few inches beyond, where damage has been sus-
tained.

In pruning healthy young trees the limbs should not be
too closely pruned, because this would occasion more lateral
shoots to put forth than is beneficial to the tree; which, if
not rubbed off in the summer, while quite young, and as it
were herbaceous, they will form crowded branches, which
may not yield good fruit. In doing this disbudding, how-
over, care must be taken to leave shoots in a suitable direc-
tion, sufficient for the formation of an open and handsome
head to the tree, according to its kind.

It may be observed, farther, that in the event of young
trees, taken from the nursery, being deficient in fibrous
roots, as is sometimes the case, close pruning may be neces-
sary to maintain a proper equilibrium between the roots and
the head, but it should be borne in mind, that foliage is as
essential to the maintenance of the roots, as roots are neces-
sary to the promotion of the growth of the head; because
the secretion of plants being formed in leaves, it follows that
secretions cannot take place if leaf buds are destroyed.

As vegetation makes rapid progress in our climate after
the frost is out of the ground, the gardener should employ
himself in unfavourable weather, in providing implements
and materials for the performance of the work of the gar
den every fine day, in order that his pruning and planting
may be done before the too rapid advance of the sap.

By such management, he will not only promote the wel-
fare of his fruit garden, but will save himself much anxiety
and labour as the season progresses. For some appropriate
hints, relative to the employment of this month, see the
Calendar for January and February, in the first part of this
work, pages 148 and 149, also page 53 of the second part,
and pages 21 and 34 of the third part.

Toward the latter end of this month, it will be time to
prune and train grape vines in many situations. Provide
shreds or strips of woollen cloth about half an inch wide, or
list from broad cloth, which is still better; also small sharp-
pointed nails to use in training vines and such fruit-trees as
require training.

If any removals are contemplated, or if fresh trees or
vines are required, arrangements should be made to have
them planted as soon as the ground can be brought into good
condition. See pages from 9 to 11, also pages 93, 101 to 104.

If the kernels of the Apple, Pear, and Quince, and the pits
of the Apricot, Cherry, Peach, and Plum were not planted
last autumn, as directed, let it be done as soon as the earth
can be brought into tillable condition, because exposure to
frost is essential to their vegetating.

MARCH.

The Gard'ner at work, ere the birds pipe a tune,
Each fruit-tree inspects, then commences to prune ;
The insects destroying, on branches or root,
That injure the blossom, or live in the fruit.

IF the weather be mild this month, considerable work
may be done in the fruit garden and orchard, before the
ground can be brought into suitable condition for ploughing,
digging, or planting.

Prune grape vines early in this month, if not done last
month, but withhold the knife until you have surveyed the

plant, and selected a full supply of the last summer shoots
at regular distances from each other, for bearers the coming
summer; cut out the superabundant, with most of the last
year's bearers, and naked wood. Prune so that a young
shoot will terminate each branch, and shorten the reserved
shoots; the smallest to three or four joints, and the strong
ones to ten or twelve. Fasten the vines to trellises as soon
as pruned, with list, or shreds of woollen cloth, arranging the
general branches from ten to twelve inches' distance, more
or less, according to the size of the vines and space allotted
for them to grow in. Preserve all strong shoots to make
cuttings with, to be planted next month, which will produce
vines fit to set out next year. See Observations on Training
and Pruning, page 21; also, article Grape Vine, 72 to 88.

Prune Apple trees, 38; Cherry, 52; Pear, 112; Quince,
132; also, Currant bushes, 59; Gooseberry, 71; cutting out
all crowded branches, worn-out bearers, and decayed wood.
If not done in the autumn, plantations may be made this
month of all the above species.

Cut out and destroy all the old stems of Raspberry shrubs,
reserving three or four of the strongest young shoots on each
stool; shorten them at the top, and take away all others,
the strongest of which may be transplanted to form a new
bed. Lay the trailing varieties for propagation, 134.

In transplanting trees, care should be taken that the col-
lar, or that part from which emanates the main roots, be not
inserted too deep in the soil, as this injures the bark, and,
consequently, impedes the natural circulation of the juices,
A medium sized tree may be planted one inch deeper than
it was in the nursery bed, and the largest should not exceed
two or three inches, 9, 93, 101 and 125,

Plant cuttings and suckers of Gooseberries and Currants,
also, of such fruit trees as produce them, in order to raise
stocks to bud and graft upon; fruit stones and kernels may
also be planted for the same purpose.

Young trees, shrubs, and vines may be obtained at public