nurseries, in different stages of growth, suited for general
planting; and others sufficiently advanced for immediate
bearers; these should be carefully taken up, and replanted.
For full information on this subject, the reader is referred to
the article, On the Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery,'
page 32.
Toward the end of the month is a good time to prepare
for the cultivation of Cranberries; they thrive best in a wet
soil, but will grow on almost any land, by giving it a top-
dressing of peat, bog, or swamp earth. As soon as such ground
can be brought into tillable condition, get plants that were
produced from layers of the last season, and set them out in
rows about two feet apart; they will soon cover the ground
by their runners, which, on being layed, will produce an
abundance of plants well adapted for additional plantations
in succeeding years. See page 57.
Provide Cedar or Chestnut stakes for the purpose of
driving into the ground, to protect newly planted trees from
injury by the wind.
No advocate he for a long morning nap,
Waking early, he plants ere the rise of the sap;
Whilst glee and good humour enliven his face,
More happy, by far, than his Lordship or Grace.
FINISH pruning hardy fruit trees the early part of this
month; also Apricot, 47; Almond, 51; Fig, 63; Mulberry,
90; Nectarine, 94; Peach, 104; Plum, 125; not forgetting
such trees, vines, and shrubs as may have been left undone
last month. At the same time manure and dig the ground
around every fruit tree that requires it.
Prepare the ground for planting, by digging, trenching,
and manuring, either generally, or in such particular places
as are allotted for the trees to be planted in, page 9..
This is the most proper season for planting the Apricot,
Almond, Fig, Grape, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, and all
such fruit trees, vines, or shrubs as originated in warm cli-
mates. Apple, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Quince and other
hardy fruit trees, may also be planted with safety early in
this month; but autumn is considered the most favourable
season for planting all trees, vines, or shrubs of northern
latitude, 10, 93, 101 and 125.
Those who have a variety of soil should accommodate all
the varied kinds of fruit to that which has been proved to
be the best adapted to its culture; and due attention should
be paid to situation and aspect, in planting a fruit garden or
orchard, 12.
Use means to destroy insects while in a torpid state, to
prevent their spreading, and also the larvæ of insects; direc-
tions for which will be found in the article headed, 'Obser-
vations on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are
liable,' 13.
Grafting may be performed on fruit trees in general, 27;
prune and plant Currant bushes, 59; Filbert, 65; Goose-
berry, 70; Raspberry, 134. Plant cuttings and suckers
from these shrubs; also of such trees as produce them, in
order to get a supply of stocks to bud and graft upon, as
well as some for bearing. Fruit stones and kernels of
various kinds may be planted for the same purpose.
This is a good season to plant cuttings of Grape Vines,
and the vine may also be propagated by layers, that is, by
bending a young shoot down into the earth a few inches,
and pinning it down with a forked stick. The top may be
tied to a small stake, to keep it perpendicular; 76 and 81.
The tender vines that were laid down in autumn, should be
taken up,
and fastened to trellises or stakes.
Uncover and raise up the Antwerp and other tender
varieties of the Raspberry, and prune them, before the buds
shoot, at the same time cultivate the ground around them,
and drive in stakes for their support. In order to obtain a
good supply of Raspberries in the autumn, cut down some
of the twice bearing varieties close to the ground, which will
occasion strong suckers to shoot up, that will yield an abun-
dant crop of fruit at a season when other varieties are not
attainable, 134.
Strawberry beds that were protected with leaves or litter
through the winter, should be uncovered, and the plants.
carefully cultivated; some lay straw over their beds, an inch
or two thick, and set fire to it, 187.
As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be
on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects.
Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit
trees, and sow the ashes over the ground, 18 and 91.
The Gooseberry green the first fruit of the year,
In pudding or pie, affords exquisite cheer,
But e'en should the season their pleasure forefend,
In such a dilemma, green Rhubarb's a friend.
FINISH planting trees, vines, and shrubs as early in this
month as possible; those planted last month should be kept
watered in dry weather, and stakes should be applied to
such as may be exposed to the wind, 93, 101 and 125.
Finish grafting early in this month. Apples, Pears, and
other late-shooting kinds may still succeed, 27.
Strawberry beds may be made early in this month, and if
the transplanting is well done, and the plants frequently
watered, they will produce some fruit this year, and a plen-
tiful supply the next season. Hovey's American Seedling
is worthy a place in every good collection for its productive-
ness, and the superiority of its fruit. The Methven Scarlet,
and Mulberry or Pine, are large and yield plentifully,
Kean's Seedling, and also the Downton, are of superior fla-
The Elton Seedling, Southborough Seedling, Myatt's
Seedling, and Bishop's Orange, are in great repute where
cultivated. The old Scarlet, being one of the earliest,
should not be forgotten. The Wood and the Alpine Straw-
berry will produce fine fruit from seed sown in the spring.
For names of other varieties, mode of planting, &c., see
article, page 136.
If frost prevail when fruit trees are in blossom, those
trained on trellises, or against walls and fences, may be pro-
tected by hanging matting or sheets of tow cloth over them;
some defend them by sticking bunches of evergreens be-
tween the branches, as cedar, laurel, pine, &c. The object
in doing this, is not so much to keep out the frost, as to
break off the sun's rays in the morning after a frosty night,
because the sudden transition from cold to heat does more
injury than the cold itself.
Propagate Fig trees by layers, cuttings, suckers, and by
grafting, 62.
If any webs or larvæ of insects appear on the leaves of
fruit trees and vines, pluck off and destroy such leaves before
the insects become quickened, which may be a means of
preventing any depredation to the advancing leaves and
buds. The trees of Plum and other stone fruit are very apt
to gum and canker at this season of the year: in such cases
the defective parts should be pruned closely off, and whale
oil soap applied to the wound. A little soot also should
be rubbed on while wet. In large fruit gardens and or-
chards, means should be used to destroy insects by fumiga-
tion, washing, &c. For various remedies, see Observations
on Insects, and Diseases to which Fruit Trees are liable,
page 13; see, also, article page 30.
Divest young budded and grafted trees of all shoots from
the stocks, below the bud or graft, as they appear; also rub
off all useless buds in early-shooting wall trees, as Nectarine,
Apricots, &c., 48.
To protect Gooseberries and other fruits from mildews
sprinkle the leaves with soap-suds; and while they are wet,
Bow sulphur lightly over them. This may be done two or
three times a week if necessary, as it is better to use a little of
the ingredients frequently, than too much at once. A solution
made of saltpetre and stone lime is also a good remedy; but.
it must be used with caution. See pages 14 and 71.
The Cherry, the Currant, and Strawberry red,
To the rich and the poor their refreshment have shed;
Pomonia has scatter'd her blessings abroad,
The full-bearing branches bend down with their load.
THE principal business of this month in the fruit garden
is summer pruning, which is generally performed with the
finger and thumb, by detaching all superfluous shoots and
buds; and also to thin the young fruit of Apricot, Nectarine,
and other choice trained trees, where it sets too thick or in
clusters. The Apricots, so thinned off, and the first princi-
pal green fruit, will make excellent pies and tarts. See
pages 48 and 92.
Cherry trees of the finest sorts may be defended from
birds, with nets, particularly those trained as espaliers, 52.
Currant and Gooseberry shrubs of choice late varieties,
trained as espaliers or standards, if very crowded with
shoots of the year, should be pruned, and the Gooseberry
fruit thinned, to promote its growth and ripening in full per-
fection, 59 and 71.
All trees on espaliers require attention; cut off such
superfluous shoots as are not required to be trained in,
leaving well-situated middle-sized shoots to supply the place
of any old branches that it may be thought necessary to cut
Grape Vines should be looked over every week. Cut off
all the tendrils and useless young shoots, and stop the shoots
before the bunches of fruit. Train up the shoots for bear-
|