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immenfe bog interfected by ftagnant ditchesand if any thing is wanting to the climax of filling up the measure of his chagrin, it would, doubtless, be the inveterate patience of the conductors of these waggons: they fit, amidst the wreck, almoft, of wheels, and in all the majefty of mud," (while the poor shivering paffenger is trembling behind,) with a composure so provoking, whiffing their pipes, that demonftrates they are totally exempt from all thofe fine feelings, which render so many of their fuperiors elegantly wretched. One piece of advice should be particularly noticed, viz. whatever is your fear of being overfet, (which by the bye you will not be) or your hope of dif patch, not to attempt exciting their feelings, or animating their speed; fince to touch them with a sense of your fituation, or to put them out of their pace, is, among impoffible things the most impoffible. There is a time limited for their given stage, that time they will keep; but were your neck to diflocate, or your nerves to shatter, they will only smoke and jog on;

Laugh at the whirlwind, and enjoy the storm."

This will not fuit the expectations of men, about, perhaps, to make the grand tour, and in the habit of running, perhaps, at the rate of

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from ten to fixteen miles in the hour. Whereas, in Holland, either by land or water, your movement is pre-fettled at three; infomuch, that the distance from place to place, is meafured by fo many hours; each hour implying a league.

Tirefome enough you will fay!-unless you happen to be a deliberate traveller, which is, always, ten to one, that a traveller is not. Yet, to what end does a perfon travel at all: but to fee the DIFFERENCE of manners and customs? Now it is the cuftom in Holland to go flow; and, for a tolerably good reafon; because they cannot go fast. Why fwear at them, and their country for this? Were all things ordered as they are in England, you would have no object of travel. At any rate, now you are told thefe matters are to be expected; (and you are told the truth); you must either take a country as you do wedlock, for better and for worfe, or remain contented where you are, and, like the Virtuofo in the comedy, only "travel in your books."

Amongst the pains of a refidentiary British traveller, are to be reckoned those which he derives from being a fpectator of the prejudices

of

of his countrymen; fome of which are fhewn off almost immediately on his fetting his foot on a foreign fhore. Nor are thefe, by any means, confined to people of low educations; and of course low ideas; but infinuate themfelves into the most enlightened minds, and understandings, when trained up at home. That impofitions are always, and every where practifed by natives on foreigners, cannot be doubted; that when detected they are more infulting to one's good fenfe, than injurious to our fortunes, muft, also, be admitted; and that, in the provinces of Holland, fuch things are, I am fo far from denying, that I mean, in their due times and places, to point them out. But is not England, dear England, under the fame impeachment ?-Does the not over-reach, and play upon both the property and perfon of a new-imported ftranger in the fame manner? and, as many little circumstances are lefs cognifable by magiftracy-are not fome of her impofitions even greater in degree? Does the not add scorn and ridicule to those impositions? Can any fingularity in drefs, air, manner, or language, efcape her criticifm? and, though, happily, these outrages on national urbanity are practifed only by the mob, or the giddy and worthless part of the wealthy, they certainly

tainly fhould induce all orders of Englishmen to allow for a little retaliation, as well as laying their account to find fome of that chicane and vulgarity abroad, of which they have fo plentiful a ftock at home.

As a very little candour, and fellow feeling, will rather lighten your baggage than make it heavier; as it will even be a fort of letter of credit, through all the countries you mean to traverfe, I ftrongly advise you to take a little of it with you; because, the omitting to do which, will be attended with two of the worst confequences, viz. render you diffatisfied with every body, and every body diffatisfied with you. Be fure, therefore, you find room for it, as one of your neceffary articles: with which piece of good council, I bid thofe farewell, for whofe ufe it is intended.

To you, my friend, fuch a caution would be unneceffary. Were I to give you warning of any thing, it would be to guard you against the exceffes of Philanthropy. May you meet with objects to deserve them!

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VOL. II.

C

LETTER

LETTER XXVIII.

TO THE SAME.

SINCE I have got thus far into the ftyle of compagnon de voyage, (albeit the office of guide along the dykes, is not a bad translation for this country) I will e'en go humbly on, till I have, like an honest Gleaner, enabled you to pick your way, till you have got a firm footing: for (as a stranger) I must confider you at prefent as going over trembling ground.

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If, after what has been faid, you are neither reconciled to the bad roads, nor worse vehicles that go over them, your only alternative is walking; which, in Summer, is really pleafant; and, in all feafons, is preferable to an healthy perfon; as you have a little village at which you can paufe midway, betwixt this town and the Brielle, and go upon a path of powdered cockle-fhells, all the way; for the moft part as firm and well bound, as if it was of English gravel. Should your baggage confist of a small trunk, portmanteau, or travelling

bag,

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