is a fact, says Abel, that the harvester, lumberman and others who do hard work in the open air consume great quantities of sugar in pie, pudding, doughnuts and molasses, with benefit. On the other hand, people living a sedentary indoor life find that large amounts of pie, cake and pudding with highly sweetened preserved fruit, and sugar in large amount on cooked cereals, almost always produce indigestion.

Masso, in 1893, performed some test experiments to determine the exact value of sugar as a muscle food. By means of an instrument which he called an ergograph, he determined that sugar possesses a notable effect in lessening muscular fatigue. Another investigator, Vaughan Harley, working under Masso's direction, performed the following experiment: He took 171⁄2 ounces of sugar a day, and found that his ability to perform work was increased from 61 to 76 per cent. He also demonstrated that "the administration of sugar delayed the onset of fatigue, and that its effect was rapidly exerted, the maximum influence being reached in about two hours." Schumburg confirmed these results in regard to extraordinary muscular exertion. Similar experiments have been performed by Stowasser, who says, "When sugar is added to the diet, the ability to perform work is increased, while the fatigue and nitrogenous waste are lessened." The conclusion of these several investigators is that sugar is the most valuable food for persons who have to perform severe muscular effort, especially if they are obliged to do so in a state of exhaustion.

This brief summary shows the use which may be made of sugar when severe work is to be performed, and some of the experimental data which indicate that this use is justified. For a long while the German army has recognized the value of these scientific experiments which they have made practical use of by allowing their men engaged in the autumn maneuvers to have a free allowance of sugar daily in addition to their ordinary rations. It was determined after a trial extending over five weeks that the soldiers who had been supplied with sugar marched better and suffered less from hunger, thirst and fatigue than their comrades who were not supplied with sugar. As a result of the experiments, the authorities recommended an increase of two ounces of sugar per day to the ration for the German soldiers.

Large quantities of brown and white sugar are used by the natives of India as a common article of diet, being freely mixed with milk, rice, cheese and other foods. It is also stated that the employers who will not furnish the native laborers with as much sugar as they desire, must expect to lose their workmen. The use of sugar by mountain climbers is

well known.

The Swiss guide considers lump sugar and highly sweet

ened chocolate an indispensable part of his outfit.

MISUSE OF SUGAR

From a gastronomic point of view it would seem that in the American cuisine possibly too much sugar is used with too many kinds of food, with a consequent loss of variety and piquancy of flavor in different dishes. The nutty flavor of grains in cereal foods and the natural taste of mild fruits are very often concealed by the addition of too much sugar.

SPICES AND CONDIMENTS

According to the Food and Drugs Act of the United States, the definition of the word food covers all articles used for food, drink, confections or condiments. While it is true that certain of the condiments. offer opportunity for food adulteration, still the enforcement of the pure food laws is sufficiently drastic to take care of the situation.

There seems to be some misunderstanding as well as apprehension existing concerning the use of condiments, or as the Germans say, Genussmittel. In its translation the latter term is broader and better since we restrict condiments to spices, like cinnamon, ginger, salt, pepper, etc., which we add to food in the stage of preparation or at the table to improve the taste. Genussmittel in its broader sense embraces all our term implies plus the savory element of the food itself which makes it palatable. The extract of meat, the sugar and dextrin of dry toast, fruit, the dextrin and caffein of coffee developed by roasting, the jellies when taken with meats, are included under this head, also caviare, piccalilli and other kinds of pickles and relishes which excite and stimulate the appetite. Many of these relishes contain sugar, starch and woody fiber also; in some instances, caviare, fat and protein must enter into the sum-total in figuring the caloric value of our food. We think it prudent to treat these appetizers or condiments in the Teutonic sense and to concur, in the present generally accepted view, that they are beneficial adjuvants to the food both in health and disease, since they awaken and intensify the appetite and stimulate the salivary and intestinal glands to secrete the juices necessary for normal digestion. Attention is directed to Volume II, Chapter III(24), in order to emphasize the great importance of the proper preparation of food in cooking, so as to develop the best aroma and flavor which in turn induce through the special senses a more thorough mastication and insalivation of the food.

Children and young people in normal health have no need for condiments, as a rule, but in adult life, under various conditions of living and occupation, the appetite often flags, and when ill or during convalescence with complete loss of appetite, it is necessary to tempt the latter, and under these conditions, the use of condiments becomes the sine qua non of treatment.

Spices, condiments and flavoring agents generally, in a restricted sense, while incapable of supplying the body with building material or energy, are nevertheless important acquisitions for the cook, for they are used largely in the culinary art and may with propriety be termed "food adjuncts." Spices and condiments of every kind and description contain aromatic oils and other substances of extremely complex and variable composition, and play an important rôle in increasing the appetite and in aiding the digestive functions; by exerting a stimulating effect upon either or both the organs of the taste and secretion. By their use otherwise insipid food is made pleasing and palatable, and monotony in the diet is relieved.

Contra-indications.-Their use is contra-indicated in certain gastric disturbances as well as in diseases of the kidneys, in which condition they act as irritants. We believe it is the consensus of opinion of students of sitology that the consumption of spices and condiments in moderation is advantageons as an accessory to the diet, but at the same time their abuse. should be interdicted, as they may serve as a contributing cause of chronic congestion of the liver from hyperemia and chronic gastric catarrh. When properly used, a flagging appetite is aroused, sluggish gastric secretions accentuated, and movements of the stomach and bowels excited. These properties indicate their use by the middle-aged and otherwise enfeebled persons to give zest and increased pleasure in partaking of food. According to Tibbles (25), healthy individuals with normal digestion do not need them, and they should be withheld from children.

Value of Spices and Condiments. "The aromatic substances contained in spices and condiments are closely allied to phenol on the one hand, and to the resins and balsams on the other." They are excellent antiseptics, and by their aromatic and sedative action exert a soothing effect on an irritable stomach and bowels. The sensation of warmth which they exert relieves dyspepsia, cramp, spasms, hiccough. The same influence is exerted throughout the intestinal tract. Secretion, too, is augmented, flatus expelled, and the pain or griping due to many vegetable foods prevented. Their mixture with food serves to excite the nerves of taste and smell as well as the sense of hunger, thereby directly augmenting appetite and

desire for and enjoyment of food. Their use is of great value to persons of jaded appetite, to invalids and convalescents, and no adjustment of the diet in such cases can be regarded as satisfactory which leaves this consideration out of account.

It is thought best for the purpose of the present work to omit a detailed study of the chemistry and composition of the vast number of flavoring agents which enter into diet, but only to consider casually those which are in common use.

Tibbles groups condiments into three classes: stimulating condiments, aromatic spices, sweet herbs; but for the purpose of the present work it is thought wise to classify condiments and spices with reference to the source from which they are obtained.

SOURCES FROM WHICH

(a) From stems or leaves
(b) From buds or flowers
(c) From barks

CONDIMENTS ARE OBTAINED

(d) From roots or root stocks
(e) From immature or ripe fruits
(f) From seeds

(a) Stems and Leaves.-BAY LEAF-The bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), or sweet bay as it is commonly called, is used as a condimental substance in food. It is a native of the Mediterranean countries, but grows in sheltered gardens throughout the temperate zone. The leaves have an agreeable odor and an aromatic bitter taste, and are used for flavoring custards, etc. The leaves contain a fixed oil which can be expressed as an essential volatile oil or obtained by distillation. The oil of bay is used in making bay rum. It is obtained from a different plant, the Myrcia acris.

SAGE-Sage is an ordinary perennial garden herb which grows wild in southern Europe and is cultivated in old-time gardens throughout the United States and other temperate climates. The leaves, which are the official portion, are grayish-green and very aromatic. From these an aromatic oil can be distilled. It possesses slightly tonic, astringent and aromatic properties. The principal use of the sage leaf is in flavoring meat, especially sausage and the "stuffing" of fowls.

MACE.—Mace is obtained from the arillus and reticulated envelope which surrounds the nutmeg. It has a beautiful blood-red color, and closely surrounds and encloses the nutmeg or kernel. The mace contains a notable quantity of fixed oils and resinous matters. Its volatile oil resembles that of nutmeg. It contains a considerable amount of carbohydrate, which behaves like starch, but gives only a red reaction with

iodin and is called an amylodextrin. Mace contains between 20 or 30 per cent of non-volatile ether extract and about 3 per cent of total ash, and 0.5 per cent of ash insoluble in hydrochloric acid and 10 per cent of crude fiber. Mace is a stimulant, carminative and valuable flavoring agent, used in the culinary art. Its excessive use is apt to produce narcotic effects similar to those of camphor. (See Nutmeg, page 649.)

COMMON MINT.-Garden mint is used largely for sauces and other culinary purposes. It has an oil which contains a stearoptene (C10H20O), also a liquid (C10H14O) which is isomeric with carvol. This herb is highly prized for its delightful aroma when scientifically blended with well-seasoned brandy in the famous Southern Mint Julep.

SPEARMINT.-Spearmint is the dried leaves and tops of a perennial herb found in most moist places of the northern United States, Europe and Asia. The plant is used extensively in flavoring mint sauce, which is served with mutton and lamb. It somewhat resembles peppermint, but can be readily distinguished from it both by its appearance and odor. The oil of spearmint is largely distilled in this country, the whole plant being used in the process.

SWEET MARJORAM.-Sweet marjoram is a native plant of North Africa. It is a sweet, fragrant and aromatic herb cultivated in gardens for culinary purposes. The plant is used for medicinal purposes as well as for flavoring. It yields a volatile oil containing 40 per cent terpinene, some terpineol, and small quantities of acetic and other acids. Sweet marjoram extract and marjoram extract are both made from the oil of marjoram.

SWEET BASIL.-Sweet basil is an aromatic herb, native of India and Africa, and is cultivated in gardens throughout the temperate zone. It is a useful aromatic herb for seasoning soups and various dishes. It possesses a peculiar inviting flavor resembling somewhat that of cloves.

SUMMER SAVORY.-Summer savory is an aromatic herb used for flavoring soups, entrées and other meat dishes. It has a very pungent, aromatic odor and a warm, rather bitter taste. The leaves are sometimes profusely covered with small vesicles containing the oil which gives the herb its aromatic properties.

PEPPERMINT. Peppermint is found growing in moist places throughout the temperate zone. It is cultivated extensively in Michigan, Indiana and New York, for the manufacture of the essential oil of peppermint. It is used for flavoring foods, though not extensively, and is used in beverages and confectionery. Menthol is obtained from the oil of pepper