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CHAPTER XI.

PARIS.

OCTOBER, 1752-MARCH, 1753.

THE times rendered remarkable by those great events, of which historians, in stage phrase, make "points," are by no means the most influential in the annals of a country. Battles, rebellions, revolutions, in short, all national crises, are but the strikings of the clock whose monotonous ticks attract little attention. Though there happened no extraordinary incident in the history of France during Wolfe's residence in Paris, there were foreshadowings of coming calamities, for even then the storm was gathering which was to burst in the French Revolution. Beneath the superficial splendour of the capital were an arbitrary government, a profligate court, a discontented people, and an ambitious priesthood. While Paris was in all its gaiety, the provinces groaned under intolerable burdens; but the noblesse were too deeply absorbed in the festivities of the day to be anxious about the morrow. Intellect was perverted, industry discouraged, and the true welfare of the kingdom sacrificed for the dream of foreign domination.

The peace which existed between England and France

was no more than a suspension of hostilities, affording time to prepare for another war. There was no desire on the part of either nation for permanent amity, and the representative of each court appears to have been chosen, not for his ability, but for such personal qualities as were calculated to render his residence endurable for a while. Thus, when the Duc de Mirepoix was sent as ambassador to St. James's, Marshal Saxe observed, "It is an excellent appointment, for he has a good leg, and can teach the English to dance;" while of the British ambassador in Paris, Madame de Pompadour remarked, "Milord Albemarle passes his time agreeably here. The King of England, who loves him, though I know not why, sends him his lesson all ready, and he comes to repeat it, like a schoolboy, to the Minister of Foreign Affairs.'

Wolfe's first letter from Paris is dated the 9th of October. After the warmest expression of gratitude to his father for enabling him to accomplish his long cherished desire, he gives the following account of his journey :

I think it was the 2nd of October that I left Blackheath. I lay that night at Canterbury; an old friend, a captain of Dragoons, supped with me, and helped to deliver me from my own thoughts. The 3rd I went to Dover, and as my old Lady Grey's house was in the way I called upon her, and was very graciously received. She pressed me to dine, but that could not be, as the time of the packet's sailing was uncertain. At her house I met a Miss Scott, whom my mother has heard of. The good old lady diverted herself with us two, told each that the other was not married, offered her mediation, and thought it a very lucky rencounter, for the young lady and I got to the house exactly at the same time. However, I escaped un

touched, and left my old friend to make up matters as she pleased. The packet did not sail that night, but we embarked at half an hour after six on Wednesday morning, and got into Calais at ten. I never suffered so much in so short a time at sea. There were two English gentlemen of condition in the ship travelling my way; we agreed to come together, and on Saturday, the 7th, in the morning, arrived at Paris without any sort of difficulty or inconvenience.

The people seem (as their character is) to be very sprightly, and to deal largely in the exterior; for a man can hardly commit a greater crime than to be mal mise, ou mal coiffé.

The buildings are very magnificent, far surpassing any we have in London. I mean the houses of the higher nobility and peers of France. The Gardens des Tuilleries, that you have heard so much of, is as disagreeable a sandy walk as one would wish. They are indeed near the Seine and the Louvre, but have little else to recommend them. The Mall, or your park at Greenwich, are infinitely superior. There are no fortified towns between Calais and Paris; the country is very beautiful in most places, entirely in corn, and quite open where the woods allow it to be so; that is, there are few or no enclosures.

Mr. Selwin has recommended a French master to me, and in a few days I begin to ride in the Academy, but must dance and fence in my own lodgings, for fear of a discovery. A letter would miscarry that had any strokes of politics in it, so I shall never touch that matter; besides, it is neither your taste nor mine. The Dauphin is perfectly recovered, and I believe the people are very hearty and sincere in the satisfaction and pleasure they profess upon that occasion. The Duke of Orleans, to signify his particular joy, has given an entertainment at St. Cloud, in the highest taste and magnificence, and at a prodigious expense.†

* An English banker in Paris.

The recovery of the Dauphin from the small-pox gave rise to numerous fetes, the most remarkable of which was an allegorical display of fireworks exhibited at Bellevue by Madame de Pompadour. The royal

On the 26th of October, Wolfe wrote as follows to his mother:

Dear Madam,

Having discovered that I understood but little of the French language, and that I speak it very incorrectly (notwithstanding Mr. Haren's honourable approbation),* I am disposed to fall upon some method that may lead me to a better knowledge of that useful tongue. The first necessary step is to leave off speaking English, and to write it as little as possible. This resolution of mine shall not, however, extend so far as to cut off all communication between us, for I had rather lose this or a much greater advantage than be denied the satisfaction of expressing my regard for you in the plainest and dearest manner; and I will borrow neither the language nor meaning of these airy people when I speak of that.

Lord Albemarle is come from Fontainebleau to his country house within two miles of Paris, and will soon be fixed for the cold season. I went to Fontainebleau to pay my respects to him, and have very good reason to be pleased with the reception I met with. The best amusement for strangers in Paris is the opera, and the next to that is the playhouse. There are some fine voices in the first, and several good actors in the last.† The theatre is a school to acquire the French language, for which reason I frequent it more than the other. Besides, it is a cheaper diversion. You'll be glad to hear that heir was represented as a luminous dolphin in the centre of a lake, surrounded by grottoes occupied by monsters, who disgorged flames against him. But his tutelary deity, Apollo, darting thunder and lightning from the clouds, the enemy with their habitations were totally destroyed. The scene then changed into a gorgeous palace of the Sun, wherein the dolphin reappeared amidst illuminations, which lasted till morning. (See Annual Register,' 1766.)

*Wolfe had letters of introduction from Mr. Haren, with whose family Mrs. Wolfe was on intimate terms.

+ Besides the Opera, in the Palais Royal, there were at this time two theatres in Paris,-La Comédie Française, in the Faubourg St. Germain, and La Comédie Italienne, rue Mauconseil. Operas were introduced into Paris in 1669 by the Abbé Pierre Perrin. The Comédie Française, doubtless the theatre frequented by Wolfe, is thus described in a con

your nephew Whetham* is in very good hands; his governor, or companion, is a gentleman of Switzerland, who was formerly in the army, and is very well spoken of. My cousin is expected here in three weeks or a month, and he stays all the winter in Paris. Madame Pompadour is a very agreeable woman. I had the good fortune to be placed near her for a considerable time. I beg my duty to my father, and wish you both health and all the good you deserve.

Madame de Pompadour was at this time at the height of her glory. Endowed with great talents as well as beauty, she, in fact, governed the kingdom. Her position was not considered anomalous, for the condition of society amongst the bourgeoisie was no less immoral than amongst the aristocracy, and all classes overlooked the irregularity of the monarch. She supported the military power of the state, and greatly encouraged the re-establishment of the navy. In her desire to advance the arts and to provide employment for the people, she founded a manufactory to rival that of Dresden, and with her originated the beautiful ware of Sèvres, for which her own pencil frequently furnished designs. In supporting the authority of the Parliaments she incurred temporaneous account of Paris :--" Toute la troupe est composée de trente comédiens et comédiennes; tous sont très-richement habillez, et mieux que dans aucun autre pays. C'est dommage que le théâtre et les décorations ne répondent pas à la magnificence des habits, et à la bonté des pièces qu'on y joue; comme les tragédies de Corneille et de Racine, et les comédies de Molière." (Mémorial de Paris,' par M. l'Abbé Antonini.)

*John Whetham, Esq., of Kirklington Hall, Nottinghamshire, was the only son of Lieut.-General Thomas Whetham, and Mary, daughter of Edward Thompson, Esq., of Marston, Yorkshire (Mrs. Wolfe's sister). He was born in 1731; married Elizabeth, daughter of Evelyn Chadwick, Esq., of West Leak; was sheriff of the county of York; and died without surviving issue in 1781. (Burke's Landed Gentry,' ed. 1850, Supplement.)